The area under the glovebox is going to be the area under the steering column on this car, it's LHD.
Which conveniently for the alarm fitter is where he/she has mounted the control unit of the alarm, I'll see if I can trace the green/purple wire around this area to try and find the point at which it has been butchered.
jump start from fork lift truck !!!
Moderator: martauto
Update time....
I've managed to sort out the wiring to the fuel pump... only to find that the fuel pump is dead.
So while I'm trying to source a replacement I changed the o ring that was leaking by the heater matrix. As I slowly refilled the coolant with the bleed screw out nothing came out of the thermostat housing...
Then I fitted up the intake side so I could see if I could start it on lpg and try to bleed the cooling system.
The car starts on lpg, idles roughly and if I press the accelerator it stalls, if I try and hold it at WOT the revs just jump up towards 2k rpm and immediately fall to idle/stall.
On top of this if I leave it at idle (heaters on hot to start with and fans on) even if I squeeze the pipes I can't get any coolant out of the bleed screw. I'm going back out to the car now and I think I will take the thermostat out and replace it. Could this be caused by anything else?
I've managed to sort out the wiring to the fuel pump... only to find that the fuel pump is dead.
So while I'm trying to source a replacement I changed the o ring that was leaking by the heater matrix. As I slowly refilled the coolant with the bleed screw out nothing came out of the thermostat housing...
Then I fitted up the intake side so I could see if I could start it on lpg and try to bleed the cooling system.
The car starts on lpg, idles roughly and if I press the accelerator it stalls, if I try and hold it at WOT the revs just jump up towards 2k rpm and immediately fall to idle/stall.
On top of this if I leave it at idle (heaters on hot to start with and fans on) even if I squeeze the pipes I can't get any coolant out of the bleed screw. I'm going back out to the car now and I think I will take the thermostat out and replace it. Could this be caused by anything else?
Another problem!!! I decided to try and move the car to my back garden for better access and light...
Tried starting it and the usual hunting and stalling and restarting (seven or eight times without much time inbetween) until it wouldn't start at all, I've noticed that the control switch for the lpg isn't lighting up any more and there's no clicking from the solenoids so now its not getting any fuel at all and theres something wrong with the lpg system
I'm going out to see if I can get hold of a fuel pump to see if I can get it running on petrol at least, in the meantime anybody got any ideas as to what might have happened to the lpg system?
Tried starting it and the usual hunting and stalling and restarting (seven or eight times without much time inbetween) until it wouldn't start at all, I've noticed that the control switch for the lpg isn't lighting up any more and there's no clicking from the solenoids so now its not getting any fuel at all and theres something wrong with the lpg system
I'm going out to see if I can get hold of a fuel pump to see if I can get it running on petrol at least, in the meantime anybody got any ideas as to what might have happened to the lpg system?
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Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member
- Posts: 49358
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
If the solenoids aren't clicking, then it's an electrical problem of some kind with the LPG.
Difficult to say what it may be without knowing anything about your LPG system and the quality of its installation, but it could be anything from a blown fuse because of a short in the wiring, to an insufficient pick up of ignition pulses, so that the system thinks the engine isn't running, to a defective earth for the LPG system.
This latter one is one of the most common electrical faults I find, since the average installer earths everything that needs earthing to a nearby bolt or self tapping screw, instead of fitting a proper earth rail back to one of the OE earthing points.
Just connect 12 volts to the blue wire on one of the gas solenoids to switch them all on, then the LPG system should work. You'd normally need to disable the petrol side of things as well, but with a dud fuel pump, that won't be necessary!
Difficult to say what it may be without knowing anything about your LPG system and the quality of its installation, but it could be anything from a blown fuse because of a short in the wiring, to an insufficient pick up of ignition pulses, so that the system thinks the engine isn't running, to a defective earth for the LPG system.
This latter one is one of the most common electrical faults I find, since the average installer earths everything that needs earthing to a nearby bolt or self tapping screw, instead of fitting a proper earth rail back to one of the OE earthing points.
Just connect 12 volts to the blue wire on one of the gas solenoids to switch them all on, then the LPG system should work. You'd normally need to disable the petrol side of things as well, but with a dud fuel pump, that won't be necessary!
Thanks Brian,
I'm really getting to the end of my tether with this car now. More tracing of wires and connections
Can I pick your brains about another idea I've had.... If I can't get hold of another 325 fuel pump, do you think I'll be able to use a similar in-tank pump from a different (similar power/turbo) car?
e.g Remove the old pump and plastic block/valve thingy and tie wrap(petrol safe?) or jubilee clip new one in with submersible fuel pipe connecting it to the supply pipe.
I'm really getting to the end of my tether with this car now. More tracing of wires and connections
Can I pick your brains about another idea I've had.... If I can't get hold of another 325 fuel pump, do you think I'll be able to use a similar in-tank pump from a different (similar power/turbo) car?
e.g Remove the old pump and plastic block/valve thingy and tie wrap(petrol safe?) or jubilee clip new one in with submersible fuel pipe connecting it to the supply pipe.
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Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member
- Posts: 49358
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
A 325 pump is identical to a 320 pump and any touring pump, and the only difference between these and 316/318 saloon pumps, is that the latter have an extra pipe connection on them.
You can either transfer the basic pump from one of these into your original pump frame, or add a short piece of fuel hose, an appropriate sized bolt and a couple of hose clips to the extra pipe.
It's certainly possible to cable tie a non E30 pump to the frame and get it to work, and I have done just this in an emergency, but it's easier to stick with the genuine parts.
Your original pump will probably burst into (temporary) life, if you thump it hard enough.
You can either transfer the basic pump from one of these into your original pump frame, or add a short piece of fuel hose, an appropriate sized bolt and a couple of hose clips to the extra pipe.
It's certainly possible to cable tie a non E30 pump to the frame and get it to work, and I have done just this in an emergency, but it's easier to stick with the genuine parts.
Your original pump will probably burst into (temporary) life, if you thump it hard enough.
the old 'persuader' was hoisted from the toolbox and put to use but no amount of beating helped in this case.My friend who I bought the car from never used it on petrol and had the tank more or less dry most of the time.... RIP fuel pump.