Heater Valve urgent!
Moderator: martauto
I've had the soggy carpets out of the car for a few weeks now trying to source the leak. The sunroof drains all work perfectly as does the scuttle drain. the centre console has got trickle marks on the side that indicates a leak from the heater box. What is it that commonly goes on these and what needs to be changed?
Last edited by Emm3 on Mon Mar 23, 2009 8:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- fowler
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the heater matrix its self or the valve to heater matrix
take out glove box and interior trim and investigate...
take out glove box and interior trim and investigate...
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- Brianmoooore
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The valve in question is the one in your pic. It commonly leaks where the white bit joins the black bit, and the cause is often a cooling system pressure cap STILL not changed twelve years after they were recalled and modified ones issued!
It's removed by undoing the bolts at the flange joint, a single self tapping screw that is difficult to get a screwdriver onto because of brake parts in the way, and by disconnecting the heater hose from it under the bonnet.
It's removed by undoing the bolts at the flange joint, a single self tapping screw that is difficult to get a screwdriver onto because of brake parts in the way, and by disconnecting the heater hose from it under the bonnet.
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bmwe30mtech
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Has your coolant level dropped? If the heater matrix has made the carpets soggy then you are loosing coolant into your car and will need to top it up.
Make sure the carpets are totally dry before re-fitting them. Even when they feel totally dry they seem to seep water out for weeks after.
Make sure the carpets are totally dry before re-fitting them. Even when they feel totally dry they seem to seep water out for weeks after.
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1989 325i Sport M Tech II, Diamond Black/Black leather
Is it the white bit on top i'm sure thats a plug?Brianmoooore wrote:The valve in question is the one in your pic. It commonly leaks where the white bit joins the black bit, and the cause is often a cooling system pressure cap STILL not changed twelve years after they were recalled and modified ones issued!
It's removed by undoing the bolts at the flange joint, a single self tapping screw that is difficult to get a screwdriver onto because of brake parts in the way, and by disconnecting the heater hose from it under the bonnet.
Or do you mean where the black bit joins to the browny/white bit?
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BadDave
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Here's a clearer pic of one that's out of the car

Remove the bottom hose in the engine bay that connects to the black pipe
Remove the 2 bolts that connects the black pipe to the 90 degree elbow on the matrix
Remove the screw that's 1/2 way along the black pipe
And remove the electrical connector that's plugged in to the valve(white bit attached to the top of the black pipe)
HTH

Remove the bottom hose in the engine bay that connects to the black pipe
Remove the 2 bolts that connects the black pipe to the 90 degree elbow on the matrix
Remove the screw that's 1/2 way along the black pipe
And remove the electrical connector that's plugged in to the valve(white bit attached to the top of the black pipe)
HTH
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- fowler
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i personnally would change the whole unit and the heater matrix why you are there as it will eliminate any future problems in that area
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- Brianmoooore
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I've never come across a leaking E30 heater matrix!
If the leak is from the valve, it will usually be obvious, both from stains originating from where the white part joins the black part, and by the fact that the two halves will have pushed apart slightly.
Can't be repaired - change the whole thing. Change the self tapper half way along the pipe for one with a hex head, and hold the two square nuts in place by wrapping PVC tape around the back of the flange.
If the leak is from the valve, it will usually be obvious, both from stains originating from where the white part joins the black part, and by the fact that the two halves will have pushed apart slightly.
Can't be repaired - change the whole thing. Change the self tapper half way along the pipe for one with a hex head, and hold the two square nuts in place by wrapping PVC tape around the back of the flange.
got complete heater matrix withall pipeing everything .not blower or big plastic houseing inside dash.this unit slides out into passenger area will be on ebay thurs 04 09 08 10am under mickyae30 lots of other usefull bits.will do you a cheap buy now through paypal an post same day. 
Finally got round to removing the valve, what a bas**rd that middle screw was!
How much are these valves new?
Is it worth getting one from scrappers?
I was thinking i very very rarely use the cold heaters on my e30 can i just remove the valve part and cap it off, that way the heaters would only be on warm always am i right or wrong?
How much are these valves new?
Is it worth getting one from scrappers?
I was thinking i very very rarely use the cold heaters on my e30 can i just remove the valve part and cap it off, that way the heaters would only be on warm always am i right or wrong?
- Brianmoooore
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The valves are quite expensive to buy new (£70 comes to mind, but maybe miles out). Scrapyard one is fine if it doesn't show any signs of blowing apart.
You are correct in thinking that the valve's job is to ensure that the heater is completely cool on the full cold setting.
Check that the coolant cap has been replaced under recall!
You are correct in thinking that the valve's job is to ensure that the heater is completely cool on the full cold setting.
Check that the coolant cap has been replaced under recall!
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Morat
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My coolant cap has the yellow cntre and is marked 130 - but there's still a very small coolant leak into the passenger footwell 
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B7
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Thats about the money they are to buy. Even OEM ones fro ECP (witgh the BMW emblem removed) are close to that moneyBrianmoooore wrote:The valves are quite expensive to buy new (£70 comes to mind, but maybe miles out). [/b]
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I've just finished replacing mine aswell, i also bought mine from chris w. i know they are expensive from bmw.
Would these recalled header tank caps have different part numbers or something to show that they are the recalled versions?
Would these recalled header tank caps have different part numbers or something to show that they are the recalled versions?
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BadDave
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I've got a complete heater/fan unit available as pictured aboveEmm3 wrote:Anyone selling one of these? the wanted section is closed.
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I'm just finishing this off and while i bought one new o ring, when i came to fitting the valve there was already an o ring on the light brown joint side and one on the old valve aswell.
left the one on the matrix and fit the new one on the valve but when i tighten it up it doesnt quite look rite. The edges where the bolts are join rite up but where the seals are looks like its apart and stressing the plastic.
Got me thinking should there have been one seal?
Quite simply how many o rings should there be between the joint valve/matrix. Need to get this finished now
left the one on the matrix and fit the new one on the valve but when i tighten it up it doesnt quite look rite. The edges where the bolts are join rite up but where the seals are looks like its apart and stressing the plastic.
Got me thinking should there have been one seal?
Quite simply how many o rings should there be between the joint valve/matrix. Need to get this finished now
Well i tell you what i must have just been unlucky with the scrapper bought what looked like a mint valve fitted it and just tested the car it leaked even before the car was fully warm!! oh well round 2 with this friggin valve.
Has anyone got a leakfree one??
Has anyone got a leakfree one??
Rite i have just bought a valve and i e-mailed the seller to check its condition, this is the response i got.
There should be 2 rubber O rings supplied with these to go around the pipe and inside the valve housing, if your previous seller did not give you those the valve will leak, you may find you only need to sort your O rings?
So according to this guy there should be 2 o rings.
My valve did not leak from the joint and it was the valve itself.
There should be 2 rubber O rings supplied with these to go around the pipe and inside the valve housing, if your previous seller did not give you those the valve will leak, you may find you only need to sort your O rings?
So according to this guy there should be 2 o rings.
My valve did not leak from the joint and it was the valve itself.
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Two in total on the car; one on each pipe.





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