E36 M3 Speedo packed up. whats a common cause?

Post Tue Dec 30, 2008 2:38 pm

The speedo on my e36 m3 3.0 has stopped working and before i start tinkering with it it would be good to know what the common faults are? any ideas?

Post Tue Dec 30, 2008 2:48 pm

Post Tue Dec 30, 2008 2:51 pm

hoshy wrote:lol.

yes yes i know. ive had it a week lol! but it wouldnt be one of my cars if it didnt go wrong 4 days after buying it!

you got one yet? i would recommend driving one, they are quick and handle! and they make alot less fuss about going quickly. very nice daily driver and they eat motorway miles.

i just sorted out the funny idle aswell, there was a small rubber cap missing from the butterly balancing nipple that was letting air into number 3 cylinder. all fixed now!

Post Tue Dec 30, 2008 4:51 pm

Couldn't help a chuckle mate

I'll get one in due course. It will be a few months yet though. As I've still got a lot of work to do to the e30.

Post Tue Dec 30, 2008 5:58 pm

Sensor on diff?

Post Wed Dec 31, 2008 12:14 am

oldroydsr4 wrote:Sensor on diff?

i dunno, i did think that but is it common on these inparticular?

Post Wed Dec 31, 2008 4:40 pm

If it's just the speedo that is dead then the pulse sensor in the diff is a good bet. It may just be a case of the rubber boot has come loose or the connections are corroded.

Try cleaning them up first, if not then replace it with new/shand one. IIRC they're the same thoughout the range and not M Specific

Post Wed Dec 31, 2008 7:09 pm

Gibson wrote:
hoshy wrote:lol.
i just sorted out the funny idle aswell, there was a small rubber cap missing from the butterly balancing nipple that was letting air into number 3 cylinder. all fixed now!

I had this on my GT its very common, difficult to find if they are only cracked not missing. Love E36 m3's.

Post Wed Dec 31, 2008 7:31 pm

Gibson wrote:The speedo on my e36 m3 3.0 has stopped working and before i start tinkering with it it would be good to know what the common faults are? any ideas?

....erm...the needle reached the stop and broke the mechanism?

just joking mate, the speedo on mine hasn't even got off the "0" yet, STILL not finished!

Post Sun Jan 04, 2009 2:36 pm

check the sensor and the lines and the fuse, and then try an 'instrument cluster self test', and for the life of me, i cannot remember how its done!!! I havn't worked on an E36 for ages, but its a series of holding down the buttons on the cluster itself until everything moves and flashes. if it doesnt move, its new cluster time, which is a common fault in E36's

Post Sun Jan 04, 2009 5:37 pm

stuartgallafant wrote:check the sensor and the lines and the fuse, and then try an 'instrument cluster self test', and for the life of me, i cannot remember how its done!!! I havn't worked on an E36 for ages, but its a series of holding down the buttons on the cluster itself until everything moves and flashes. if it doesnt move, its new cluster time, which is a common fault in E36's

two spare clusters came with the car so that would be cheap if it was that. how difficult are they to change?

Post Sun Jan 04, 2009 6:38 pm

Just had an income tax rebate and I am getting mucky thoughts about an E36 M3.. just how much should one expect to pay for a decent runner? What to look for?

Post Sun Jan 04, 2009 7:53 pm

daimlerman wrote:Just had an income tax rebate and I am getting mucky thoughts about an E36 M3.. just how much should one expect to pay for a decent runner? What to look for?

Well depends which one you go for, mint Evo's book at over 5000 for a 100k example. 3.0 can be had a bit cheaper. full history is important. i just picked up a 3.0 black 2 dr with 120k on the clock in good condition for £2500 but i think i was really lucky with mine! expect to pay 3000+ for a decent one. and 6000+ for a decent 3.2 evo with low mileage in a desirable colour with options.

Post Sun Jan 04, 2009 8:14 pm

Gibson wrote:
Well depends which one you go for, mint Evo's book at over 5000 for a 100k example. 3.0 can be had a bit cheaper. full history is important. i just picked up a 3.0 black 2 dr with 120k on the clock in good condition for £2500 but i think i was really lucky with mine! expect to pay 3000+ for a decent one. and 6000+ for a decent 3.2 evo with low mileage in a desirable colour with options.

Was a 3.0 I was thinking about,and about £3000...are 4 doors cheaper/less desirable?

Post Sun Jan 04, 2009 8:35 pm

Yes the four doors are cheaper and usually better looked after in my experience, I would buy a 3.0 every time as they are more reliable than the Evo's I am not saying they never get Vanos issues but its not nearly as frequent. I have had a couple of 100k+ 3.0 and they were going strong, as said evidence of main dealer or known indy servicing is a must walk away from a home serviced example (unless it has loads of supporting documentation) and ones that have used a back street garage or Kwik Fit!

The Daytona violet ones are lovely I had a coupe and a cab in that colour and just loved the whole experience.

Common issues are the coil packs (which there are six of), clutches don't last well, rear tyres are needed frequently when you drive hard, and I had a steering rack let go at about 100k on two of the 3.0's I owned (the rack is the same as the rest of the e36 range but with different lock stops that can be moved from old to new). The loack plate on the boot can crack if used heavily and is a good bargaining point.

Great car, buy one but take your time as there are plenty for sale.

Post Mon Jan 05, 2009 12:55 pm

Ok... Back On Topic Now?

I did the self test on the instrument cluster which appears to be working fine. u said there was a fuse for this? any idea which number it is? and are the diff speed sensors M specific?

Post Mon Jan 05, 2009 1:05 pm

Thanks for the advice,sorry to hi-jack..

Post Mon Jan 05, 2009 2:34 pm

daimlerman wrote: Thanks for the advice,sorry to hi-jack..

No worries! My pleasure my good man!

Post Tue Apr 21, 2009 11:12 pm

Gibson wrote:Ok... Back On Topic Now?

I did the self test on the instrument cluster which appears to be working fine. u said there was a fuse for this? any idea which number it is? and are the diff speed sensors M specific?

Never heard of a fuse going on these. More than like ly it is either the connection to your sensor ( corroded contacts) where water ingress has seeped in the rubber boot, or the pulse sensor has had it.

They are not M specific either, so a 316i sensor will do the job.

Post Wed Apr 22, 2009 12:49 am

Cheers i eventually changed this about 3 weeks ago and the pulse sensor in the diff had been physically smashed up by something.... so its gonna have to be a diff rebuild!DOH

Post Wed Apr 22, 2009 10:16 am

Fuck me, I didn't even look at the date. Sorry fella.