Where to check for rust on a e30
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I would say the only way to find out what behind the kit is too remove it and have a good look, however the prospective seller won't be too keen on that course of action thou!!!!!Rial_e30 wrote:Obviously i know to check the rear arches, scuttle panel, battery try where else can i chceck??
Also the car has a mtech 2 kit so how do i know if its hidin any rust or not??
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pull the carpet back in the boot to check the inner rear arches,
you cant realy check under the tech-2 kit unless you remove it.
you cant realy check under the tech-2 kit unless you remove it.
Cypriotgeeza wrote:I done both my mates in my old 318is
felt so proud,even tried it with a E30 325i and got put in my place..
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- Ac Schnitzer prophet
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remove the rear bench!!! a wise zoner told me this! open the driver and passenger doors and grab the sill with your hands and squeeze!! check the scuttle, under the battery and fuse box... have the carpet up in the front to check behind the accelerator pedal...
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All of it.
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On a car with a body kit you have problems checking behind the kit,as this area is most vunerable to rot. You can have a look at the door bottoms,feel around the inside of the rear arches and have a good poke around the boot floor/inner arch area,though.Wind the sunroof back and have a peer down inside,it's where the frame mounts to the roof skin that they rust.Have a good poke at the cills from the underside as well,the kit only covers the outside so any rot here will have spread to a bit you can see.
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- He who sleeps with "Gingers"
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you should be able to get an idea of the condition of the bottom of the doors from the inside without removing the kit as oyu can see along the bottom edge with the door open. its only half a dozen clips and 2 10mm bolts holding on a cill. the wing pod pops off to gain access to the 2 bolts. i would recommend removing the cill kit to check the condition of the metal underneath properly but as said if its rotten you should be able to see it from the underside.
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if it's a 2 door with a tech2 kit remove the rear door cards (just clip of ) and have a good poke around in the bottom /arch area
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The sunroof lid is a bolt on bit,so not really the issue,walk away from anything with rust bubbles around the sunroof on the roof skin.By the time it's got that far,it is far too late... usual area is the rear corners of the sunroof hole,this is where the frame of the sunroof mounts on the underside of the roof skin.Have a hunt through the photo gallery at a few restoration threads,so you can see the common areas in all their glory...Rial_e30 wrote:I have seen one with the actual suroof paint scabbing etc is this too much work???

you getting another one?Rial_e30 wrote:Obviously i know to check the rear arches, scuttle panel, battery try where else can i chceck??
Also the car has a mtech 2 kit so how do i know if its hidin any rust or not??

m52 b30 stroker 6-speed 318is Galvanizer
m42 touring
+ a yard full of scrap turds

Yep its got what i want so having a look
The actual sunroof has got rust not the roof
p.s anyone around northwest london that can come with me to have a look at the car sort you out with a drink etc
The actual sunroof has got rust not the roof
p.s anyone around northwest london that can come with me to have a look at the car sort you out with a drink etc
Last edited by Rial_e30 on Sun Dec 28, 2008 1:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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- Old Skooler
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Undo the lower sill cover clips (they prize off with screwdriver) and pull back the sill covers to check the condition of the sills; they tend to go under the A-posts (what the door hinges on) and at the fronts (check the carpets for signs of water ingress).
///M aurice
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do u mean print??Rial_e30 wrote:I am goign to pront this thread off and take it with me to inspect the car lol


Considering Selling the Cabby, looks like its gonna go
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bits that maybe haven't been mentioned so far are.....
trailing edges of the sills.
under/around/behind towing eye.
drivers rear wheel arch-goes pretty much everywhere here thanks to the fuel filler/breather.
passenger side front wheel arch-look inside the arch directly below where the fusebox is mounted, the bulkhead can be very bad here, push it a little as its not always obvious from the outside, you can also check it by looking behind the glovebox and upwards behind the accessory plug.
both corners of the scuttle- a small bubble usually ends up as a thumb size hole.
both corners of the floor pan at the front of the sills can be bad. if someone has repeatedly used those square plates to jack the car then its almost certainly got some rust there.
around the petrol flap can be bad.
sunroofs as mentioned above.
as roscoe said, check everywhere.
trailing edges of the sills.
under/around/behind towing eye.
drivers rear wheel arch-goes pretty much everywhere here thanks to the fuel filler/breather.
passenger side front wheel arch-look inside the arch directly below where the fusebox is mounted, the bulkhead can be very bad here, push it a little as its not always obvious from the outside, you can also check it by looking behind the glovebox and upwards behind the accessory plug.
both corners of the scuttle- a small bubble usually ends up as a thumb size hole.
both corners of the floor pan at the front of the sills can be bad. if someone has repeatedly used those square plates to jack the car then its almost certainly got some rust there.
around the petrol flap can be bad.
sunroofs as mentioned above.
as roscoe said, check everywhere.

'88 e30 328i M52 track bint.
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Northwest london eh???
Maybe I might be able to come along, bring the Alpina convertible for a little spin too.
Where you based, townwise?
Wheres the car at?
If you do check, also check under the car, ramp it up.
Check that there's no dodgy welding going on, I was about to buy a rotten turd once, but saved myself.
Remove the carpets, and check underneath, the floors, may have rust in that area.
Depending on the amount of rust on the car, if it's too much, leave it, it's like a disease, it will spread, and costs shed loads of money to get done right.
I got a mate who got a 318iS and has a little 2 inch surface rust on the windscreen pillar, and he got an estimate of £800 to sort it out.
Be careful, it's what's its hiding that counts.
Maybe I might be able to come along, bring the Alpina convertible for a little spin too.
Where you based, townwise?
Wheres the car at?
If you do check, also check under the car, ramp it up.
Check that there's no dodgy welding going on, I was about to buy a rotten turd once, but saved myself.
Remove the carpets, and check underneath, the floors, may have rust in that area.
Depending on the amount of rust on the car, if it's too much, leave it, it's like a disease, it will spread, and costs shed loads of money to get done right.
I got a mate who got a 318iS and has a little 2 inch surface rust on the windscreen pillar, and he got an estimate of £800 to sort it out.
Be careful, it's what's its hiding that counts.