CAB Sound system help

[JAMZ]

Sup fellaz..

Next step is a sound system...(so much for not spending anymore money)

Its for a CAB as you know so i need some advise from peeps who have installed a decent system in there's..

I got a pretty decent Kenwood CD Headunit...not there best but its more than good enough..

I dont wanna spend silly money..im hoping no more than Ԛ£300-350..

For this i need half decent speakers in foot wells,rear quater panels...tweeters in the wing mirror inside panels,a SUB and an AMP..

anyone got any ideas?

BTW the head unit is the KDC-6080R 45wX4 max out
28wX4 Full bandwidth power

Cheers

[JAMZ]

TBH i dont know the first thing about car set-ups..

I can get some good deals on Flea-Bay for speakers,Amps..

Anyone in the know with ICE..i could do with some info on the sorta speakers and size amp im looking for...what Amps for what subs etc etc..

get a large Amp or get 2 smaller and run everything independant?

Dont really wanna got to a installer cuz there probably feed me aload of shyte..

Ive allways had pretty decent set-ups but not really tinkered with AMP's and Subs so havent got a clue im afraid..

Stick me with a 5.1/7.1 Audio setup for the house and PC..im yer man,but with Car's...

ENLIGHTING ME FOLKS!!

Cheers

[placey]

carl

the trouble with e30s generally is the factory front speaker size (5 1/4) and location - firing into your ankles. 6 1/2inch drivers give a mid-bass kick and are far far preferable in the front. they need to fire at your ears rather than ankles to sound good. if you can start with a decent soundstage from your fronts and bass from the rear you'll be well on the way to decent sounds.

the trouble with cabs in particular is getting bass from the boot into the cabin. if you use the massive amp approach it will always sound what it is - forced.

i suggest you get an amp and acquire/make some front door pods and get some 6 1/2 inch components in the front doors. while doing this get some dynamat and sound deaden/proof every area you can. you'll be amazed at how good it will all sound just for this work. you can then make a plan for your low frequencies.

shout me if you want any help of an evening - you know i'm local.

paul

[JAMZ]

Thks m8..

Hmm making door pods is a bit of work i cant afford and havent really got the time TBH..

I got some Kenwoods in the rear quaters..not sure what model but im sure there sound alot better running from an amp..i MIGHT not need to change them,il take a closer look later..

As for the front..will Conponents not be ok where they are already??..i.e in the door wells and the tweeters in the side mirror plates

All this run from a AMP and a sub thrown in..

guess id need a 4 channel AMP..but what size would be good enough without spending stupid amounts...

there some good deals on EBAY for this stuff so im on the hunt

and the subs: 2x 10'' OR 1x12'' ..is there enough room for 2x10'' subs to run propely

This is all the stuff i need to know bud

If i need to get door pods made i guess i will but i dont want to if i can really help it

cheers

[placey]

carl

if you bag yourself a 4 channel amp and use it to power all your 5 1/4 inch speakers in stock locations you'll more than likely think the sound to be pretty good and be pretty pleased with yourself. when you've heard a decent front soundstage using 6 1/2s you'll think again....

i'll be making a batch of front door builds in the coming weeks. they'll be 35 a pair painted. budget an extra 50 if you want them trimmed to match your door cards - i say this to give you an idea - not to try and sell them.

your big problem is going to be getting the sound from any sub into your cabin.... do you have a ski-hatch aperture in your cab?

removing the trim and cabling up requires a bit of planning but once worked out boils down to monkey work. i guess that you're quite likely to mount your amp in the boot (near your boot mounted battery??) so you'll be wanting speaker cables for the fronts to be down the drivers side and signal cables down the passengers side of the cabin.

paul

[placey]

carl

this is worth a punt> alpine 4-channel amp

[mrLEE30]

this is also posted in the other stereo in cab help but maybe you wont see it.

Yep difficult in a cab without going to extreams of building custom door cards, and then of course you will loose you door pockets which a re handy in a cab.

I went for 1 12inch JBL sub run off an infinity 600W amp, in a ported sub-box with internal diameter of 3cubicfeet and a 13x3inch port firing sideways (you cant see it on the picture below. i now have the sub firing into the car as opposed to as the picture shows which i now think sounds better.

5 1/4 rear pioneer 3 way are run off a JVC head unit (which for info have an infinate amount of colour variations amber being one of them and the face has muliple tilt angles which is great in a cab with the roof down as you can actually see it) in the front i but 6inch JVC 3 way and dynamatted the inside of the door area, they are now run from the spare channel on the infinity amp.

it sounds great in the car roof up or down, another tip is to open your roof cover space, lift up the carpet and remove the five or six one inch rubber grommets, thus opening the holes into the boot space. then cut holes in the carpet inside the boot. this allows the sub to breathe a bit better as the cab boot is well sealed and air from your sub has difficulty in escapeing. dont go down the route of cutting holes behind you rear seat. and finally if you have it there is a hot air blower behind your rear seat which should act as the demister. i junked this and now use the power supply to power my sub, you only need to short out the micro switch inside the rood enclosure on the drivers side (LHD) then heres the bonus, you can turn on and off your amp with your demister switch, so if your in a dodgy area you can kill the bass instantly! the power supply is good for 30amp so more than powerful enough to handle most normal amps on the market.

good luck

mrlee

[JAMZ]

thks for the advice..nice tip about the demisiter...dont really seem to do much anyhow..

cheers

[JAMZ]

Sup fellaz,

Got myself a VIBE 12'' and a JBL 6 channel amp...got door pods on the way and conponents will be bought soon too..

So..Did any of you use sound deadening in the roof conpartment? should it be done there..

Ive seen a deadening kit for Ԛ£125 does the Bulk of the car..hasnt got a roof so that could be used in the fold away roof conpartment instead

Seats/panels will be off so im thinking about doing it all then

floor,doors,boot/lid,back quaters & roof conpartment.

troulbe is there noisy anyhow on the road due to the soft top...is it worth doing all this?

cheers

[fowler]

sounds good maten i have door builds coming to where is the sound deading kit coming from

[mrLEE30]

when you do your install best bet is to remove the rear seats and front seats too, remove the sill covers and you can find underneath the wiring looms nicely tucked away under a plastic cover, i routed my cables through there and have no problem with électrical'noise, but went for very good pre-out leads.

if you buy sound deadening stuff take out the rear quarter panels (which you will do to fit rear speakers, and get as much stuff down in there as posiible but still leaving just enough space to allow your window to open. it will be the source of all sorts of rattles if you dont (i speak from experience!!!)

I didn't sound deaden the roof space and as i said i actually opened as many holes as possible to allow the boot to breathe. Removeing the spare wheel and wheel cover, then sound deaden the spare wheel holder allows a bit more breathing volume in the boot, buy a can of fix-a-flat and keep your spare at home.

mrlee

[mrLEE30]

when you do your install best bet is to remove the rear seats and front seats too, remove the sill covers and you can find underneath the wiring looms nicely tucked away under a plastic cover, i routed my cables through there and have no problem with électrical'noise, but went for very good pre-out leads.

if you buy sound deadening stuff take out the rear quarter panels (which you will do to fit rear speakers, and get as much stuff down in there as posiible but still leaving just enough space to allow your window to open. it will be the source of all sorts of rattles if you dont (i speak from experience!!!)

I didn't sound deaden the roof space and as i said i actually opened as many holes as possible to allow the boot to breathe. Removeing the spare wheel and wheel cover, then sound deaden the spare wheel holder allows a bit more breathing volume in the boot, buy a can of fix-a-flat and keep your spare at home.

mrlee