Twin Seq. Dry sumping for beginners :D

[bene30jane]

alright mate, looking good, just think of the creations that could be out there if we all put our minds and hands to what you have use off .....

did any more come of the hub adaptors at all?....

there must be an easy/easier way and cost effective way to get 5 stud!?.....

[Rik178m]

Mate missin the pics real bad! Hows it coming on? Howmuch does the carbon fibre cost? Is it as easy to work with as fibreglass?

[Turbo-Brown]

Hooray for Honda Power! Just done 910miles since tuesday without missing a beat! (thank God!)

Only just got in from Scotland so I've not been doing anything this week, but have tomorrow off work and the machine shop called during the week to say the block's been bored, the crank polished and the bottom end gaskets and bearings are all ready to collect

The hub adaptors are almost ready to be test fitted, will try and get around to them tomorrow while the paint on the block's drying

The CF has come down by a couple of quid recently actually, it's about £28/sqm and the resin's about £4/ply/sqm depending on how efficiently you use it. So a three ply laminate for something like the boot lid (which is conveniently 1sqm) you're looking at about £120 give or take.

It's just as easy to work with as fibre glass, just the first layer needs to be very carefully laid down to make it look nice

[Turbo-Brown]

Okay, had a bit of a clear up in the kitchen and went off to the machine shop to pick up the block, crank, bearings and gasket set. Cost a little bit less than I had thought it would too which is nice

Here's the block with it's new increased bore size:






Gave it a paint too with some engine enamel I bought last time but was too lazy to use






And here's the crank....which has been polished:




Finally got around to doing a trial fit of the 5 stud conversion bits too! I say trial fit as the special nut is ever so fractionally too small to go over the E30 stub axle. Should be easy to modify on the lathe and I think that's the only remaining hurdle!

Here's the two parts of the adaptor. The lower part (which is about 15mm tall) is a modified stub axle from an E36, and the upper part with the hex etc. is what I had made:




Here's the two bits on the E30 leg, a quick measure suggests that pretty much all of the E30 stub's thread will be used by the adaptor which was kinda the point




And there's an E36 hub on the E30 leg but not quite screwed down

[march109]

Alex, machine shop details please? pleeeaaaase.

[Turbo-Brown]

It's Roe Engineering in Fleet, Hants. Tel No. 01252 613404

[Jhonno]

but I did buy a car to replace the piece of shit touring I bought which has suddenly developed a blown head gasket

But it never used a drop of water! Honest

I love this thread in so many ways! The craftmanship is something to behold if nothing else

[Phill172]

Looks like Roe have done a good job yet again alex, i do love that shop, just how its really old fashioned!
im also loving the sneekly pictures of PPC! Have you had work done on the head yet too?

Im glad to hear the hondas going well too, that thing will keep running for years!

You doing anything about the touring?

[Turbo-Brown]

Cheers chaps

The head's just getting a new cam and some rockers when I get around to making them.

Seems the proper BMW heads have nice smooth inlets as standard so I'm just gonna leave well alone.

Going to swap the head on the touring for one I know is good (and which has recently been skimmed), change the head gasket of course and the inlet / exhaust gaskets and then sell it with a clear conscience that it's had the major consumables on the engine (HG, water pump, cam belt and tensioner) replaced.

Actually really liking the Honda. Haven't even had it about about 5000rpm yet! Have decided to call him Arthur after Arthur Dent from Hitch Hikers Guide to the Galaxy

[Phill172]

haha good work mate, you know you want to crank the little honda past 7k!!

you got all the gaskets? iv got some spare im sure, iv got exhaust ones that came with the pack i wont be using if you want them!

making rockers more tasty parts!

so when does the turbo brown shop open, make a mint making kits!

at least its got to hear youv got a good ca to run around in!

[driftmonkey]

would be good to nose around a turbo m20 at xmas time, bit of inspiration for my project, im just in the buying part of the project at the mo, mines going to be much more of a bodge it system tho, not like the time and effort your putting in!

Need to get practicing on my welding ready for building the exhaust, only mig tho.

Maching the rockers bloody hell, will be a new engine!

[Turbo-Brown]

I think I've got all the gaskets, got a complete bottom end set, and a MLS head gasket. The head I'm using was the one I rebuilt for Brown which had all new gaskets anyway. No doubt something'll come to light though

I made the whole exhaust and manifold system for Brown using a MIG welder, you don't get the lovely shiny welds like with the TIG, but they're every bit as functional

I've had great fun with the car today!

Started off by making the necessary adjustments to the hub adaptor. You can see it screws onto the E30 spindle properly now! The tolerance on the bearings and spindles boggles the mind!




And so with a great sigh of releif, the hub can now be screwed on. Just need to make a locking mechanism as obviously there's no deformable collar with the new nuts.




So here's the offset adjusted wheel perched in it's new home:




I've obviously measured something a bit wrong at some point along the line as there's only about 4mm between the rim and the strut now! Not sure if that's gonna cause a problem but it's not too difficult to adjust if it does:




And now I need to order up the material to make new caliper brackets




Started work on building the engine today, I'd forgotten how long it takes to clean out all the threads and all that gubbins! Also needed to adjust the end gaps on all of the top rings by about 0.15mm which is tedious to say the least




Still, all the rings are gapped properly and assembled onto their pistons ready to go in

Gonna finish off cleaning the block and crank tomorrow and hopefully install the crank, rods and pistons!

[Turbo-Brown]

Oh arses! Spent the morning cleaning the block, oil ways, crank and it's oilways, popped out to the shops to get some crappy mineral oil for the bores.....went to get the main bearings out and noticed (thankfully before breaking the seal on the package!) that they're for the M50 which has a different design of cap for the mains

Not to worry, I thought, I'll make the oil return attachment for the sump. So I start milling away but all of a sudden the motor slows right down on the mill. So a couple of hours of head scratching later I decide that it's the little gearbox that's at fault (it's the only part which has moving parts but no ball bearings) so me and Dad decipher the instructions and find a way into the gearbox. Sure enough, the selector was bone dry so that's been greased up and it seems to run better than ever.....but by that point I'd almost had enough for the day.

About the only thing I started and finished today was cleaning and polishing the jackshaft....which isn't very interesting

[Turbo-Brown]

Gleees! Got an M21 oil pump and drive stick on order, a replacement for the needle bearing which lives in the block that got paint on it, and some centre badges for the wheels

Also got a 4.5"dia x 2" long chunk of ali on the way to make a water pump pulley from, and two great bigish slabs of ali to make caliper brackets with.

Lastly on the list of early Christmas presents for myself and the car is a nice rotary table for the milling machine, a vice and some shiny new cutters.

I love retail therapy!

[Phill172]

was going to say alex where do you get your ally from, as im going to making up my brake brackets soon too! brake set up looks porno

[e30_Turbo]

Alex,

Any idea where I can get a sliding table for one of these?

http://images.channeladvisor.com/Sell/S ... GDM92B.jpg

Got me a new toy!

[Turbo-Brown]

Hey Phil, I get all my bits of metal and the like from a chap called Mike from Noggin End Metals. http://www.nogginend.com/index_files/Page837.htm (that's a random page which came up on google for him....though titanium....... )

Waheeey Mark, I've just bought some stuff from Axminster. Guess you mean something like this:

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp? ... =1&jump=44

If you can get a collet holder in the quill of the machine you've got and stop the quill from jittering about too much, you should be able to get some pretty decent results using those bits

[e30_Turbo]

That's the type, did eventually find some on ebay, was more looking for the correct term for them, my first call will be an engineer I know who works at a manufacturing company, they're downsizing ( to poland ) and have plenty of 'spares', Think I may struggle to get something small enough though.
The adjustable bed of the drill stand has slots in it which I can bolt the table down too, should work out fine. Might have to pick your brains about drill bits and speeds, got 12 to play with, IIRC there was a table on the mill's at college, is there a good one to use, or any basics I should go over? Can't wait to get playing, need a hole cutter to get started on the inlet manifold, then weld on the pipes, going for 1 1/2 inch runners, 3 inch depth on manifold, I really want trumpets on the runners at the manifold end but can't buy them anywhere, IIRC you made yours last time?

[Turbo-Brown]

Heee, buy a massive CNC machining centre from them and start churning out parts dude

No worries dude, gimme a shout if you need a hand! I could do with revising on what the recommended speeds are too! The lathe we've got only goes up to 500rpm now so I've forgotten pretty much everything

Think the basics are, make sure you know where all your appendages are at all times and don't try to force the cutter through the work. It's not a bad idea to get a squirty oil can and fill it with coolant. Keeps cutters sharp for longer and should improve the finish you can achieve.

Do some experiments to see if you can 'climb mill' with your setut. My gut feel is that the machine won't be stiff enough and there'll be too much backlash in the leadscrews on your table, but if you can it further improves tool life and makes the surface finish even better

See if you can get some 1 5/8" pipe with a 16swg wall. That gives pretty much exactly 38mm ID which matches up to the B25 ports nicely

Should still have the tool I made to flare the pipes kicking about if you wanted some doing. It's dead easy, just put pipe and tool in a vice, cover in gear oil and squeeeeeeeze

[Phill172]

good work, thanks mate!
Yea iv been looking into so many different set ups for the brakes, but i can get GTR Skyline calipers dirt cheap, Risingsun performance basically throw them out, there brembos and have quite a low profile, 280mmx30mm disc should do it!

So your using titanium or ally for the mounts? Im always afraid it does seem to be really easy to make up the brackets, assuming the offsets and things are correct!

[Turbo-Brown]

Blimey, if they're throwing them out, you should gather them up and plonk them on Ebay or something!

Ti is a real fucker to machine and the tools to cut it are fairly specialist so I'm using ali for my brackets.

If you can get the disc on the hub and the caliper on the disc, you've got a fairly decent plane to measure from, and if you can just tape a ruler to the caliper mounts on the strut, you've got the other plane to measure to.

[Phill172]

haha you do realise in me doing this, your going to get....the im stuck thread made!
haha, litterely people just upgrade and chuck them, even the GTR (none brembo) nissan branded ones are brillent!

Basically i stumbled across this guy....

http://www.e30tech.com/forum/showthread ... 079&page=4 page 2

[IMG]http://dairally.net/e30/E30SR/files/ima ... 67.jpg[IMG]
[IMG]http://dairally.net/e30/E30SR/files/ima ... 78.jpg[IMG]

haha ill stop cluttering your thread!

[Turbo-Brown]

Happy to help if I can mate

Got some brake caliper brackets and a pulley through the post today:



They're very well packed as I think it's gonna take some time to find the pulley and brackets under all the metal

Also got an M21 oil pump and drive stick brand new from BMW, together with some lovely pressed and enamelled wheel centre badges and the little needle roller bearing which goes under the gear that drives the pump.



Looking forward to a weekend of engine putting together and machining now!

[e30_Turbo]

Looking good, that'll keep you busy in between food and alcohol this xmas!

I had a great delivery the other day, a few 3 inch ssteel bends for the manifold, gonna get started soon, that pipe flarer you made, what size pipe is it for, does it cover a 64mm ID pipe when flared? Try to go from 45 up, is that poss?

[Turbo-Brown]

Hmmm, good question!

Gimme a shout over the weekend dude!

Not tried it with stainless though, only ali. And that was a struggle involving a long bar over the handle of the vice.

If you've got a press though, you're welcome to borrow the tool itself.

[e30_Turbo]

60ton press do?

Or there's a much bigger one out the back, working with a massive engineering company has it's benefits, there's a mill in there that's got bed bigger than a double bed!! I'm having my sheet cut on the gilatine and the bends pipes split and hopefully the runners flared!
I might ask if they have something they could use already there, they've got most things.
I was thinking a little oil/heat might ease the stretching, does ss work that way?

[appletree]

A little heat will help but stainless does work harden and crack.

We flare the ends at work when we run cable through the pipes so the edges dont rub.

Can normaly bend the lip 90d with a 10d radius on a 3'' pipe we just 'knock' it onto a former.

We do have sum fittings that are nearly trumpet shape to. Ill get a pic today

[Turbo-Brown]

Thinking about it, my flaring tool is 48mm at the smallest diameter so might not be of much use

Just ordered the driven plates for the clutch! Crikey, £248 all in! That's for Tilton Ceremetalic plates which supposedly engage nice and smoothly!

Might look into getting one of the clutch delay valves from an E36 M3 so help smooth things out a bit more as the Tilton one costs about £150!

Final thing to take care of is the release mechanism. Thinking either a Saab concentric release bearing perhaps, or modifying the standard release bearing to be a bit more durable.

[e30_Turbo]

The hydraulic ones look easy enough to use, more shiney braided hoses too

[Turbo-Brown]

Oh bollocks, it's been a couple of days of annoyance!

Got the driven plates for the clutch. One's right, the other one's in the right box, but has the wrong spline pattern so that's gone back.

Worse than that though is the main bearings I exchanged on Monday have a bloody shell missing! And the pack had obviously been opened too as all the bearings had finger prints on them and one was fucked!

So, as again I can't put the engine together, I do some machining. Only to find that the head of the mill is kinda slowly falling over! "maybe the locking nut's undone" I think to myself....tighten it and the thread strips! Luckily only in the nut, but it's a pain to fix it and takes about an hour to sort!

Next up, the tilting of the head means that one of the holes in a caliper bracket is now at an angle and about 1mm from where it should be so that doens't fit and the part needs remaking

Luckily though, there's enough meat on the other side of the billet to start again without scrapping the material so I've not got two brackets which can be bolted to the calipers properly.

What a day! Should say though, that once the mill was fixed it worked great! But what'll go wrong next?!

[secondtimelucky]

This thread is beyond epic!!! Been reading it since i joined and cannot believe the skills you've got, awesome work bud

[baptie0]

bad luck, some days are a nightmare.

i am thinking about using a m20 flywheel on my m50 and am trying to decide whats the best choice for a clutch, what setup are you using?

[Turbo-Brown]

I've got a custom flywheel which takes this twin plate Tilton clutch:



It's only a 7.25" one so it's too small to use on the M20 flywheel unfortunately. Can easily handle 500blft though which was my main reason for going down the twin plate route.

Hooray! Actually made some pleasing progress today!

After yesterday's faffing about, everything except my brain was working today

I was looking at the sketch I'd done when measuring up the original Wilwood bracket and spacers I had....and just couldn't see where some of the numbers had come from. There were measurements from the edge of components to the edge of holes but marked up as being to the centre, and I'd mysteriously added 6mm to the diameter of the disc too....for no apparent reason.

Anyway, this is why we check drawings twice before making things so this is the end result

Facing off the billets:




Billets machined to accept caliper mountings:






Cutting the rebate for the strut's fixing lugs:




The finished brackets:




And the bits in place

[JazzMan]

Very nice work as always

[baptie0]

looking very nice!!!