Subwoofer box design for my cab (12")

[ImysE30]

Hi all,

Can some talented fella on here into ICE, design a sub box for me please. The sub i have got is a DB Audio 3000w 1000 rms in 12". The space i have got in my boot are 11" (height), 38" (width) and 25/26" (depth). Box will have to be prism shaped due to height.

Thanks in advance
Imy

[bigredbmw]

am designing my own and building it .... more satisfaction that way

[ImysE30]

I'm looking to getting some dimensions for the best box size to make so the sub will have good effect

[mrLEE30]

my effort, i needed 3 cuft internal area and there is a 13x4inch port firing to the side not visible in the photo.

good as you can still use the boot and i have left the wires accessable incase i need to get to the spare tyre

the sound is very good, in fact too good for the speakers inside the car.

if you really need dimensions i can measure but you should be able to figure it out yourself. BTW it makes no difference which way the speaker faces.

[ImysE30]

Is that a 12" sub? I really like the style of that sub box. Would you be able to give me dimensions of your sub box?

[sati]

that box will be no good! for your sub as it needs alot more cuft to get the best.

[rob_htid]

will someone enlighten me on the term...cuft?

[guizai]

cuft = cubic feet

[ImysE30]

that box will be no good! for your sub as it needs alot more cuft to get the best.

What do you suggest, i still can't decide weather to go with 1 12" or 2 10"

[cliffybabe]

also check the measurements as im sure the gap is narrow in certain places

[Rav335uk]

2 x 12" sunshine, why skimp????

[ImysE30]

Well i've just been to see my local installer finally. This is what i have got:

1 x 12" sub (the one advertised in my sig)
1 x Vibe Slick A7 Mono Amp
5.25" Vibe Components

Bacially he goes that it is a difficult job and expensive (in my eyes anyway).
He is on about creating a centre console in the boot with the sub housed inside at an angle. He said the best way to port it into the cabin is by creating a bigger hole in the back panel (using the existing holes) and then taking the port out into the rear seatbelt holder (taking this cover out altogether). He said it will cost me about £250 for this work, not including all the wiring.

What are your thoughts?

[Rav335uk]

Feck me, do the fecking job yourself, its a piece of piss, I did all my own wiring and built my own ported box and insalled all the speakers too in a day

[ImysE30]

That is what i am thinking now but i don't want the boot to rattle like feck when i turn it up

[Rav335uk]

It won't, don't worry too much about it.
I don't.
You can always Dynamat it with the money you're gonna save by doing the job yourself

[ImysE30]

If i get him to do it, it is going to cost me £650 (that is including all the equipment)
If i do it myself it going to cost me about £450

Decision's decisions

[Rav335uk]

£200 saving mate but then by the looks of it, your not short of a few bob or two

[ImysE30]

Yeah it is £200 saving, but do i want to go through all the hassle of doing it myself. Tbh i'd rather give it to him and get him to do it all, that way i know it will sound better and if i have any problems then straight back to him.

Will it be a problem if he cuts a hole in the plate behind the seat?

What makes you say that?

[cliffybabe]

no dont cut the metal its part of the cabbys chassis structure unless u wana re-enforce the area he cuts, I drove a cabby that someone had cut to fit a 12 inch sub either side behind the rear bench and it drove horrid

[ImysE30]

Any ideas on how to re-inforce the area? It's only a small hole i think

[Rial_e30]

Bro just get the actull diemensions and build your own box. I say more cuft the better and remember one thing funny shape boxes will by all means feck up your sub. Ive been there and done it and blew few subs including Kickers, JL audio's and loads other speakers.

I'd say go normal rectangle shaped one, and choose whether you want a port or not ( as i said before go sealed), but with a bigger cuft. Then that will sound the nuts.

For wiring its all easy man takes maximum a hour, and trust me if you was North West london I would of done it for you. And for multiple amps you need just a extra remote from the master amp to the slave. A Mono and Pono from the master amp to the slave. And two distribution boxes in the ground and the battery wire.
(if you use distribution box make sure you use a 0 gauge wire to the disttribution box and two 4 Gauge wires out)

Get dynamat from any sounds place and get one or 2 rolls they are about £30 a roll but it effective.

About that hole i told you, you'll need it to get bass from the boot and give air space to the boot. The hole could be done using a drill and it should be a small circle about 2-3 cms in size. Just one is enough you dont need to go OTT

[ImysE30]

I'd rather pay someone money and get them to do it coz i know they will do a better job and it will sound better, am just like that.

After reading Cliffybabe's post i'm not too sure about the hole now

[cliffybabe]

no big holes in the rear deck dude, theres already a few there but look hoe they are spaced out its part of the structure

[Rial_e30]

Well upto you bro you know what you can spend from your pockets.

I'd also say stay away from the holes but if you must then go ahead. It would of been much easier if you had a ski hatch. As my mate has a E46 with a ski hatch and we just basicly ported the arm rest in the middle and now the cabbin is fulled with bass.

One more thing id say is the box go for a normal shape, sealed. But covered.

The guy would do your box and fit the subs. but with the front to the side walls of the boot. That would look nice and neat as the subs would be as part of the boot

[sati]

iam 100% with Rail_e30 on this , build the box ur self! i designed 1 for u it was rectangle and its easy to get in the boot , unlike the prism shape box, it my look pretty but wat you after looks or sound quality? i can design you a propa box for your 12" sub but it's not worth it as it will be like an L-shape , if it was a seald box then its fine , but ported box you want to stay as square as you can , for best sound,. sell the 12" and get either 1 or 2 10" more cone area - more bass , dynamatt will stop the car rattling around about - £40-50 for a boot kit , but if u can get a good price on bulk pack get it its worth it!.

building the box is p1ss work , take the sizes to b&q or wicks and they will cut it to size , and so as long you can drill a hole and can use a scerw driver and can use ajig saw your fine.

but if you still want to run with this 12" then post up or pm the "THIELE-SMALL PARAMETERS" as db audio website seems to be dead and only 3 sites are selling the sub and they only list the basic info.

[sati]

i had a look on all my programs and the company nor the sub is listed in any of them, so i defo need the "THIELE-SMALL PARAMETERS" sholud be on a sheet in the book / box ,

i need the following:
QES
QMS
QTS
FS
VAS(liters)
X MAX(mm or cm)
Znom (ohms)

from this i can design a box for the subs and show you output in db and so far its only been 1-2 db off the real outcome.

[ImysE30]

I guess it a change of plans again

The sub is already on ebay (hopefully it will sell). Just got to get the right 10" subs now.

If i get him to do it, he's going to charge me around £300-£350 for fitting everything. Now in my eyes that is alot of money. I reckon if i do it myself i could do it for around £150-£200 (maybe cheaper).

How does Dynamatt work, how is it put on? Sorry if this is a dumb question but i'm new to audio systems.

Thanks in advance

[zaust]

Use 4x 8" in an isobaric box. You will be blown away if you do it right.

[ImysE30]

You mean something like this marc?

[zaust]

Simular, You would have 4 inside with 2x port's Acting as 2x 16" sub's( 2 boxes in one ) but with a tight thump as well as a low drop.




We done this in brian harvys cab back in the 90's. Sounded the nut's and they were only jenson hand print driver's.

[zaust]

And any sound proofing should always be used. I used to use tar cil for roof tiles. Very sticky and amazing for sound proofing. Also plyabe for corner's.

[ImysE30]

Would it be 2 separate boxes or just 1?

[zaust]

I built 1 box with seperate chamber's. (2 in 1) Just do a mirror image.

[ImysE30]

Oh right, i sort of get you know.

[sati]

but it must have a large box, anyways i think sticking with the basic's design's will be fine.

just look for a sub which is ratted at same power or as close as possible to your amp ,
# RMS @ 4 Ohms mono: 1 x 300w rms
# RMS @ 2 Ohms mono: 1 x 600w rms
# RMS @ 1 Ohms mono: 1 x 750w rms

you can run any of these with ease:
kenwood: KFC-XW1024D - £84.99
Alpine: SWR-1042D - £94.99
Kicker: SOLOBARIC 10" L7 - £119.99

Orion: HCCA-10.2 -£199.99 (will be under powered by 750watts)