Rear suspension toe and camber adjustment kit.
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stratos
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Where can I buy a weld on kit for the rear subframe for toe and camber adjustment ?
Also what type of bushes do you recommend ?
I intend to use a solidly mounted subframe with o.e. trailing arm bushes. Or does anyone have a better suggestion ? Solid bushes ?
Track only. No road use.
Also what type of bushes do you recommend ?
I intend to use a solidly mounted subframe with o.e. trailing arm bushes. Or does anyone have a better suggestion ? Solid bushes ?
Track only. No road use.
318 is.
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oldroydsr4
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Ireland engineering
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E30BeemerLad
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just polybush the subframe mounts and then buy M3 eccentric trailing arm bushes from the dealer?
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djs325
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I use Noltec Rear Trailing Arm Bushes that have an eccentric centre - used them on Wednesday to dial in the correct amount of rear toe - adjustable with a 19mm spanner and socket on very long extension with a ratchet on the end - was able to perfect my rear geometry on a 4 post hoist with a laser alignment jig.
Don't think you can get Noltec bits anymore, but try Powerflex or some of the American reatailers e.g. Carr Industries, AKG Motorsport, BimmerWorld, they might have something in that category.
Highly recommend changing the bushes, not the brackets.
Don't think you can get Noltec bits anymore, but try Powerflex or some of the American reatailers e.g. Carr Industries, AKG Motorsport, BimmerWorld, they might have something in that category.
Highly recommend changing the bushes, not the brackets.
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stratos
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This is what I have decided to do.
I`m having some plates made for the toe and camber adjustment which will be fitted with eccentric adjusting bolts.
I will use new standard o.e. trailing arm bushes.
And I will solidly mount the rear sub frame and raise it as much as possible ( 20 mm ?). In effect lowering the car without the camber and toe change penalty.
This in addition to being able to lower / adjust it with the adjustable spring platforms.
What do you think ?
I`m having some plates made for the toe and camber adjustment which will be fitted with eccentric adjusting bolts.
I will use new standard o.e. trailing arm bushes.
And I will solidly mount the rear sub frame and raise it as much as possible ( 20 mm ?). In effect lowering the car without the camber and toe change penalty.
This in addition to being able to lower / adjust it with the adjustable spring platforms.
What do you think ?
318 is.
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juniorGT
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i have used powerflex street inner rear bushes and powerflex race outer bushes, and powerflex subframe mount. cars feels awesome, next year i will look into the IE rear caster/camber kit.
318is.


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Stevin
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I could only raise my rear subframe 12mm.
I've also got custom made solid ally subframe bushes, aswell as custom made Poly Propelene trailing arm bushes.
We also made our own camber and toe adjustment kit


I've also got custom made solid ally subframe bushes, aswell as custom made Poly Propelene trailing arm bushes.
We also made our own camber and toe adjustment kit



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Stevin
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Oh yes, in that pic the ally bushes were still at the std length, we machined them down by 12mm to get the shorter bushes.

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UweM3
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Looks good!Stevin wrote:Oh yes, in that pic the ally bushes were still at the std length, we machined them down by 12mm to get the shorter bushes.
Is there an issue with the diff location if you move the rear beam up?
I have Powerflex bushes at the moment but was thinking to tackle the rear beam assembly to get the alignment right.
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Stevin
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There is a small issue, as the rear diff mount (the one on the chassis comes) comes out of alignment, but that is easily solved with a slotted diff bush.
I was going to run the diff spaced back down to the original location, but I found with this and the low ride height that the half shafts ran at an upwards angle from the diff to the wheels, but with it spaced back up they ran slightly at a downwards angle from the diff to the wheels.
Other than that I haven't found any other problems, although I'm not sure to what degree this is going to affect the propshaft u joint. I guess time will tell.
I'm thinking of making slightly shorter engine mounts (as I'm custom making solid engine mounts for the S50b30) this might getting the propshaft running straight if this is a big deal (I mean straight line not straight with the ground or chassis)
I was going to run the diff spaced back down to the original location, but I found with this and the low ride height that the half shafts ran at an upwards angle from the diff to the wheels, but with it spaced back up they ran slightly at a downwards angle from the diff to the wheels.
Other than that I haven't found any other problems, although I'm not sure to what degree this is going to affect the propshaft u joint. I guess time will tell.
I'm thinking of making slightly shorter engine mounts (as I'm custom making solid engine mounts for the S50b30) this might getting the propshaft running straight if this is a big deal (I mean straight line not straight with the ground or chassis)

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stratos
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This is exactly what I am doing at the moment.
Yes it looks as though it will only be about 12 - 15 mm but I suppose it is a start. The limiting factor is that the trailing arm brackets are up against the floor but a few deft hammer blows ( to the floor ) will give a bit more clearance.
The slotted diff mountings are available from Muzzimotorsport ( I will make my own ) and I wont lower the engine as the sump on an 318is is already close enough to the track !
I can supply the camber/ toe kits if anyone is interested.
Yes it looks as though it will only be about 12 - 15 mm but I suppose it is a start. The limiting factor is that the trailing arm brackets are up against the floor but a few deft hammer blows ( to the floor ) will give a bit more clearance.
The slotted diff mountings are available from Muzzimotorsport ( I will make my own ) and I wont lower the engine as the sump on an 318is is already close enough to the track !
I can supply the camber/ toe kits if anyone is interested.
318 is.
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Stevin
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No, the limiting factor is the actual subframe, u can only cut the bush down to the same height as the subframe.
Unless of course you modify the actual subframe which I wasn't willing to do.
You will notice with the raised subframe that the spring mounting points get fairly close together, here is an example, we want to run the car lower than this so we will have to go to a coilover as the spring mounting points get to close together at this ride height.

although this is at a fairly low ride height (early style fenders and 17 with 225 x 45 Bridegestone Semi's, and it is just tucking the tyre)

The s50 is also incredibly low, but for me this isn't an issue as it's a race car, so no road use.
The slotted diff mount isn't a big deal I have also manufactured my own one.
Unless of course you modify the actual subframe which I wasn't willing to do.
You will notice with the raised subframe that the spring mounting points get fairly close together, here is an example, we want to run the car lower than this so we will have to go to a coilover as the spring mounting points get to close together at this ride height.

although this is at a fairly low ride height (early style fenders and 17 with 225 x 45 Bridegestone Semi's, and it is just tucking the tyre)

The s50 is also incredibly low, but for me this isn't an issue as it's a race car, so no road use.
The slotted diff mount isn't a big deal I have also manufactured my own one.

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stratos
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Yes, I see. I will use coil overs
318 is.
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stratos
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Here is the camber and toe kit.

It consists of -
8 machined weld on brackets.( only 4 shown in pic ).
4 eccentric bolts (BMW).
4 eccentric washers (BMW).
4 self locking nuts (BMW).
This kit allows you to change toe and camber to your desired setting.
Price is £ 83.00 (including UK postage ).
PM me if you require a kit.

It consists of -
8 machined weld on brackets.( only 4 shown in pic ).
4 eccentric bolts (BMW).
4 eccentric washers (BMW).
4 self locking nuts (BMW).
This kit allows you to change toe and camber to your desired setting.
Price is £ 83.00 (including UK postage ).
PM me if you require a kit.
Last edited by stratos on Sun Nov 30, 2008 11:01 am, edited 2 times in total.
318 is.
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e21Jason
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Hi I am intrested but doed this kit not need 8 weld on brackets
Jason
Jason
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march109
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For toe and camber yes you do, the kit above is only enough for toe or camber correction.e21Jason wrote:Hi I am intrested but doed this kit not need 8 weld on brackets
Jason
Still cheaper to buy through flying brick or Chris on E30tech.
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stratos
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Yes.
8 weld on brackets. 
318 is.
