Hi fellas, i'm new to the forum, and hopefully within the next few days new to owning an e30.
I've had the lucky opportunity to have to get another car cos the missus will be having my current one. There's a few cars that I've always wanted and a 2 door e30 is probably the easiest to come by.
2 have come up in the local classifieds and I'm going to see them tomorrow. I'm hoping they will be in mint condition and I'll have a decision to make.....
First is 2 dr 1990 316i, 77K, absolutely no mods, aking £650.
Second is 325i cab, and has previously been tinkered with, lowered, aftermarket alloys, "K&N induction" and possibly other stuff. Says 66,000, asking £1k
I don't neccesarilly need a fast car, but I cant stand underpowered cars. My primary concern for having my perfect e30 is the look - I am hoping to go for the understated / minimal bodywork with fat, sticky out, 15/16" old skool rims, lowered, but to a still daily-driveable level. There is an element of chance involved but I am hoping for a car that will be reliable and not cost me too much to maintain.
I've read lots of past posts, and have learnt a lot, but I would appreciate any advice which of which of these cars is for me.
Thanks
J
I'm going to look at 2 x e30's tomorrow...
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gooner1
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Cab sounds good mate, plenty of power there if you want it. or perfect for cruising. If that mileage is genuine,
its cheap at that price. Check EVERY where for rust, and have a good look under carpets if poss.
Someone more qualified than me will be along soon no doubt, and give you a more extensive idea of what to look for. Welcome btw.
its cheap at that price. Check EVERY where for rust, and have a good look under carpets if poss.
Someone more qualified than me will be along soon no doubt, and give you a more extensive idea of what to look for. Welcome btw.
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BMWAlpinaC2
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Always ask the seller if you can take off the mtech kit, If theres any rust underneath, it will need attention.
If theres rust, you can lower the price way more, depending on the quantity of rust.
Service history is good for a car especially the cab.
Check the engine condition, the last one I got years back has the engine looking shiny as heel, turned out he steam cleaned it carelessly and I had major problems.
As for paint, minor oxidation is nothing, check the hood of the cab.
When going to view the cab, put the roof up and take it down again, and check for rips, tears or mechanism problems as they're a big headache and leaking roofs are the last thing you want on a new car.
Apart from that, get someone you know who knows about engines to go along with you, if you yourself and check the engine over, and for a good car, the cab's a steal really.
If theres rust, you can lower the price way more, depending on the quantity of rust.
Service history is good for a car especially the cab.
Check the engine condition, the last one I got years back has the engine looking shiny as heel, turned out he steam cleaned it carelessly and I had major problems.
As for paint, minor oxidation is nothing, check the hood of the cab.
When going to view the cab, put the roof up and take it down again, and check for rips, tears or mechanism problems as they're a big headache and leaking roofs are the last thing you want on a new car.
Apart from that, get someone you know who knows about engines to go along with you, if you yourself and check the engine over, and for a good car, the cab's a steal really.
Could be wrong, but that sounds very cheep for a cab.The 316i sounds alright but could a little slow.My advice would be I you could wait until a good one turns up would be a 318IS.A quick car (140bhp)in its day but not stupidly quick.A couple of magazines are out at the weekend,TOTAL BMW and BMW CAR they have a good for sale section at the back.One thing to look for on E30S is REAR ARCHES (TIN WORM).Hope I've been some help.Oh and by the way the 318is is a 4 pot car so to bad on fuel.
Born on the 23 April 1990 320i Alpinweiss ll kabriolett! (SOLD BUT NOT FORGOTTEN !)
Thanks for the repies.
The ad says new bmw hood 3 years ago, assuming it passes my inpsection, is there a chance that the hood will cost me a lot to up keep? - I dont really mind to much whether its convertable or not, in fact I like the look of the back of the 2 door.
Is this mtech body kit standard on this car? How do you get it off to inspect for rust? If this kit is not standard can it just be removed?
How do I tell if the modifications like, springs etc are done to a decent standard?
What are the signs that a car/engine that has been abused?
I'm thinking if £1k is cheap then there will be a catch such as no service history, or the seller knows something is about to go!
Also another question I have, probably relating to the 316, is the plastic trim on the side glued on? or are there holes in the bodywork?
The ad says new bmw hood 3 years ago, assuming it passes my inpsection, is there a chance that the hood will cost me a lot to up keep? - I dont really mind to much whether its convertable or not, in fact I like the look of the back of the 2 door.
Is this mtech body kit standard on this car? How do you get it off to inspect for rust? If this kit is not standard can it just be removed?
How do I tell if the modifications like, springs etc are done to a decent standard?
What are the signs that a car/engine that has been abused?
I'm thinking if £1k is cheap then there will be a catch such as no service history, or the seller knows something is about to go!
Also another question I have, probably relating to the 316, is the plastic trim on the side glued on? or are there holes in the bodywork?
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Rosc0PColtrane
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Go for the 316i and the money you save could see you a proper engine.
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Rosc0PColtrane
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Either chrome or painted metal. Bottletops possibly original wheels but they're as desireable as Gary Glitter on a childrens hospital ward.
The cab sounds like it'll be a proper turd. The 316i has all the connotations of a looked after car, especially as the engine is not a performance engine, these attract certain buyers. I'd be leaning toward the two door.
The cab sounds like it'll be a proper turd. The 316i has all the connotations of a looked after car, especially as the engine is not a performance engine, these attract certain buyers. I'd be leaning toward the two door.
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mineralblue
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Personally I would treat the cab with a huge amount of suspicion. Probably full of rust.You will not be getting a MINT 325i cab for 1k. Don't get sucked in by the cab and just look at the 316i.
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tom325sport
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Mileage will display 6 figures. Just be cautious though. In my experience a low mileage car should realy not have any wear or tear to seats/steering wheel carpets etc - but again these could be changed. Best thing to ask for is history with the car. Good luck anyway and let us know how you get on.jslot wrote:Does the mileage counter display the 100,000 - or would a car thats done 177K show 77K?
What I do know is that the 316i isn't all that bad a car to drive - it's a bit low on power but fun nonetheless....
it's also a very cheap car to buy now, so you can afford to be picky - make sure the shell is good and when you do an engine swap you'll be laughing
it's also a very cheap car to buy now, so you can afford to be picky - make sure the shell is good and when you do an engine swap you'll be laughing
i bet they are. i would prefer a 318i but its still a nice e30 an your right, you can be pickyIlkorin wrote:What I do know is that the 316i isn't all that bad a car to drive - it's a bit low on power but fun nonetheless....
Just seen the 316. It was, as far as I could tell absolutely mechanically sound, and I was shocked to find virtually zero rust!
No service history beyond the previous owner of 18 months, he has however got receipts for power steering, brake pads, cam belt and some suspension stuff that he got replaced
The only problem is it is a bit scruffy on the outside with dents and scrapes and dull chrome.
It also does not have the bottletop alloys, just hub caps
The only other bad things is that the steering wheel didn't point straight, is this a serious problem with the geometry or is this just a steering wheel that needs to be put on straight? It also felt like I had to turn the steering wheel loads to get round corners - reminded me of my dad's morris minor - is this normal?
For a car that only had 100bhp 18 years ago, it didn't seemed ok, but in an ideal world there would be a bit more power - it got from 0-30 ok.
Told the guy that I'm looking at others and I'll give him a ring cos I may put in an offer - put not the asking price of £650 - how low an offer do you think I can get away with.
No service history beyond the previous owner of 18 months, he has however got receipts for power steering, brake pads, cam belt and some suspension stuff that he got replaced
The only problem is it is a bit scruffy on the outside with dents and scrapes and dull chrome.
It also does not have the bottletop alloys, just hub caps
The only other bad things is that the steering wheel didn't point straight, is this a serious problem with the geometry or is this just a steering wheel that needs to be put on straight? It also felt like I had to turn the steering wheel loads to get round corners - reminded me of my dad's morris minor - is this normal?
For a car that only had 100bhp 18 years ago, it didn't seemed ok, but in an ideal world there would be a bit more power - it got from 0-30 ok.
Told the guy that I'm looking at others and I'll give him a ring cos I may put in an offer - put not the asking price of £650 - how low an offer do you think I can get away with.
The car isn't rusting at all and is mechanically sound? good start.....but is there the classic rattle from the engine? with such low mileage it shouldn't but you can't trust mileage alone nowadays :p..........
steering wise, my touring (which I'm pretty sure is standard) takes a bit more than one turn of the wheel to do a 90 degree bend, but I can't vouch for that because I don't count while I'm doing it.....(I've also got a little bit of play so maybe someone else can quantify it better).......but it shouldn't be anywhere near as bad as a morris minor, not as slick as a modern car though...........
what sort of spec is it? from the sound of it, the bodywork isn't amazing and the wheels are the lowest end.....
I'd probably draw the line at paying more than 500 for it in fairness, but if the engine is smooth and quiet, it'd be worth paying a tiny more.......
steering wise, my touring (which I'm pretty sure is standard) takes a bit more than one turn of the wheel to do a 90 degree bend, but I can't vouch for that because I don't count while I'm doing it.....(I've also got a little bit of play so maybe someone else can quantify it better).......but it shouldn't be anywhere near as bad as a morris minor, not as slick as a modern car though...........
what sort of spec is it? from the sound of it, the bodywork isn't amazing and the wheels are the lowest end.....
I'd probably draw the line at paying more than 500 for it in fairness, but if the engine is smooth and quiet, it'd be worth paying a tiny more.......
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Morat
- E30 Zone Team Member
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Dents and scrapes are not good news if your main interest in the car is for the state of the shell...as for the steering - yep sounds about right! There are lots of people on here who swap their racks for later, faster ones. I quite like the steering as it is, but my fiance laughed when she first tried it 
Bottletops are cheap. Free if you come and collect from YO60!!
I wouldn't get too excited about this car. If you're going to swap the engine its not the best place to start (rear discs etc) and if you're not, it'll be pretty slow.
You call!
Bottletops are cheap. Free if you come and collect from YO60!!
I wouldn't get too excited about this car. If you're going to swap the engine its not the best place to start (rear discs etc) and if you're not, it'll be pretty slow.
You call!
E30 Touring 0.35 cD - more slippery than prison soap
Praise the Lard... and pass the dripping!
Praise the Lard... and pass the dripping!
steering is slow on these things so dont worry too much about that. if you get it have the tracking done, once thats done just take the badge of the steering wheel and undo the nut. 22 socket i think, and make sure the steering lock is off to get the wheel off and put back on straight.
if you wanted bottle tops that should not be a problem. most people tend to use them as plant pot stands in the back garden so £30 or so should bag you a set. if you get them place an add in the wanted section. if you get it.
and if your near to manchester i would give you a few notes for the steel wheels
what about the cab?
make sure when you check of rust - check the inside of the rear arch. its the worst place for it.
if you wanted bottle tops that should not be a problem. most people tend to use them as plant pot stands in the back garden so £30 or so should bag you a set. if you get them place an add in the wanted section. if you get it.
and if your near to manchester i would give you a few notes for the steel wheels
what about the cab?
make sure when you check of rust - check the inside of the rear arch. its the worst place for it.
Its looks very basic inside but I haven't really got anything to compare it too - it has electric windows and mirrors. Sunroof also.
My wallet and skills are in no position to be transplanting engines, what I need is a car that I can get looking cool as cheap as possible, with an engine that has a good chance of doing another 20k without probs.
The engine to me just sounded like an old engine - no rattles or anything like that, just seemed a bit blowey (I dont mean a hole in exhaust) when it idles, like its nearly stalling.
I am looking forward to going to see the cab after work - and will let you know what I think of that.
My wallet and skills are in no position to be transplanting engines, what I need is a car that I can get looking cool as cheap as possible, with an engine that has a good chance of doing another 20k without probs.
The engine to me just sounded like an old engine - no rattles or anything like that, just seemed a bit blowey (I dont mean a hole in exhaust) when it idles, like its nearly stalling.
I am looking forward to going to see the cab after work - and will let you know what I think of that.
Have you looked at the cab yet? I assume its a standard 325i cab and you'd probably get more goodies like the on board computer etc. As BMWAplinaC2 said at the top about the MTech kit, i doubt it'll have that, so no need to remove it. Give the cab a good look over as the others said, and test everything. The 316i will have a small little 4 pot engine whereas 320i+ (up to 325i) will have the nice and smooth straigh six, which IMO is nicer to drive. If the cars condition is good (and looks/feels) like the mileage is genuine consider that i'd say. I'd only take a really smart 316i in good nick, good colour and perfect bodywork coz you will probably get fed up with how underpowered it is.
Where are you situated? because you could always look a little further out as well and extend your options. I'd stick with a coupe 320i/325i SE and go from there.
Also, wherever you do start, its easy to get replacement parts and fit them (well a lot of the parts) so you can get the smart beemer look quite easily!
Good luck mate and let us know what u choose
Where are you situated? because you could always look a little further out as well and extend your options. I'd stick with a coupe 320i/325i SE and go from there.
Also, wherever you do start, its easy to get replacement parts and fit them (well a lot of the parts) so you can get the smart beemer look quite easily!
Good luck mate and let us know what u choose
Thanks mate,
Thing is I live on the Isle of Man, and although a lot of my mates will go to UK to collect cars from ebay or autotrader, there is no way I am - unless car is brand new it will have to go through manx road test (like an MOT) - cars that have always been taxed on the IOM dont ever need to be inspected/MOT'd. With an old car this is a big thing to worry about I imagine!
So it's local cars for me - I been keeping an eye on the classifieds for either e30, cheap mk1/2 escort or vauxhall firenza/magnum. Found out there is no such thing as a cheap escort and I've never seen a firenza in real life - so I've happliy now got my heart set on a 2dr or cab e30.
Thing is I live on the Isle of Man, and although a lot of my mates will go to UK to collect cars from ebay or autotrader, there is no way I am - unless car is brand new it will have to go through manx road test (like an MOT) - cars that have always been taxed on the IOM dont ever need to be inspected/MOT'd. With an old car this is a big thing to worry about I imagine!
So it's local cars for me - I been keeping an eye on the classifieds for either e30, cheap mk1/2 escort or vauxhall firenza/magnum. Found out there is no such thing as a cheap escort and I've never seen a firenza in real life - so I've happliy now got my heart set on a 2dr or cab e30.
Good old island life ay! Same in jersey with the whole MOT system. Makes importing cars a gamble. You dont have spped limits out of the villages/towns etc in the IOM do you? If you dont, 325i cab all the way, providing its reasonable!!
Escorts, i like them too but only the nice ones (the old RS/Cossies etc. But you dont find a good nick one or a cheap one ever for accetable money...).
When are you gonna check up on the cab?
Escorts, i like them too but only the nice ones (the old RS/Cossies etc. But you dont find a good nick one or a cheap one ever for accetable money...).
When are you gonna check up on the cab?
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Morat
- E30 Zone Team Member
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my car passes its MOT every year! Buy one with a recent test and you should fly through...
E30 Touring 0.35 cD - more slippery than prison soap
Praise the Lard... and pass the dripping!
Praise the Lard... and pass the dripping!
Getting that 316i to look cool with dents and scuffs isn't gonna be easy.... best if you want something to look good is to go for a car with as good a body as possible, maybe considering even non-runners because the majority of the time it's a simple fix and parts go pretty cheaply.....(mate of mine got an is for 400 because it had a siezed water pump, almost mint asides from that >.<)
It does sound like the engine could give you a lot more miles without too much grief though.... will save you some on fuel...
It does sound like the engine could give you a lot more miles without too much grief though.... will save you some on fuel...
Thats a good point Ilkorin - problem is knowing exactly the extent of the mechainal repairs.
Would you beleive it you wait 3 months for 1 and 3 come along at once - another cab just been advertised locally and will be seeing this tomorrow - its like word has spread around the island that someone is after an e30. This is a 320i 1989, 80K, asking £750. It has been off the road, untaxed, in a garage for the last year, since he bought his newer beamer.
Would you beleive it you wait 3 months for 1 and 3 come along at once - another cab just been advertised locally and will be seeing this tomorrow - its like word has spread around the island that someone is after an e30. This is a 320i 1989, 80K, asking £750. It has been off the road, untaxed, in a garage for the last year, since he bought his newer beamer.
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Rosc0PColtrane
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Forget the 316i then. I thought you wanted to do an engine transplant??? Unless you put in a cheeky offer of about £400, with the change to sort any issues. Though your perception of tatty and ours may differ. These cars are very basic on the inside. You have to remember that modern cars are feature loaded as a selling point. Features also add weight. These old turds are from an era of driving, not sat nav.
Could do with seeing the damage to the 316i. If it's on a door or wing, it's an easy fix. Think about replaceable panels as opposed to cutting and welding. If that's the case, then it may still be an option for you. A decent 325i lump can be had for about £300. Suspension for a similar set up and brakes from a 325i, I'm not sure about.
It's stuff to do over time. If the car has mechanically been looked after, then your MOT's will not be a problem. As for the steering wheel; check for uneven tyre wear, pulling while driving and braking. If all is well, don't worry about the wheel. It may have been taken off at some point (maybe to wind the mielage back?)
320i cab is a nice smoker. That is very cheap money. On top of what you've checked for before, a working roof is everything. If it needs tweaking, factor in paying a professional to set it up properly. A coont of a DIY job.
Could do with seeing the damage to the 316i. If it's on a door or wing, it's an easy fix. Think about replaceable panels as opposed to cutting and welding. If that's the case, then it may still be an option for you. A decent 325i lump can be had for about £300. Suspension for a similar set up and brakes from a 325i, I'm not sure about.
It's stuff to do over time. If the car has mechanically been looked after, then your MOT's will not be a problem. As for the steering wheel; check for uneven tyre wear, pulling while driving and braking. If all is well, don't worry about the wheel. It may have been taken off at some point (maybe to wind the mielage back?)
320i cab is a nice smoker. That is very cheap money. On top of what you've checked for before, a working roof is everything. If it needs tweaking, factor in paying a professional to set it up properly. A coont of a DIY job.
Sorry if my intentions of what I want from my e30 were not clear - I like to drive fast but have never had a massive yearning for etra bhp. I have never even fitted a non-standard air filter!
For me it's all about 1 thing, the period look from the outside and the shape of the car. Infact I like an old skool interior.
I would prefer a more poweful engine. But less fuel, insurance, (and possible repair costs?) of bigger engine may balance things out.
I'm also really concerned about the costs of repairing / replacing a manual hood, as one of the cabs I will see has an aparantly 'ropey' hood, tear in window.....assuming the mechanisms are ok, can repairs be DIY'd or fixed cheap???
Cost is a big factor, I have many more things that I need to spend my money on at the moment, so only mods I would pay to do are lowering and keeping my eye out for some wide bbs's or similar period alloys on the cheap.
With help from my dad, I can fix minor dents and scratches, and spray them, although it wont be to a professional standard, so 1 or 2 dents ok but big repairs no way.
I am very unfamiliar with car mods and I am worried about spotting a car that has been badly modified or with bad parts, like springs, induction kits. Is there anything in particular that I should look out for and walk away from??? Do all these bits add to the value of the car?
Just also gotta say thanks forum for helping me through this.
For me it's all about 1 thing, the period look from the outside and the shape of the car. Infact I like an old skool interior.
I would prefer a more poweful engine. But less fuel, insurance, (and possible repair costs?) of bigger engine may balance things out.
I'm also really concerned about the costs of repairing / replacing a manual hood, as one of the cabs I will see has an aparantly 'ropey' hood, tear in window.....assuming the mechanisms are ok, can repairs be DIY'd or fixed cheap???
Cost is a big factor, I have many more things that I need to spend my money on at the moment, so only mods I would pay to do are lowering and keeping my eye out for some wide bbs's or similar period alloys on the cheap.
With help from my dad, I can fix minor dents and scratches, and spray them, although it wont be to a professional standard, so 1 or 2 dents ok but big repairs no way.
I am very unfamiliar with car mods and I am worried about spotting a car that has been badly modified or with bad parts, like springs, induction kits. Is there anything in particular that I should look out for and walk away from??? Do all these bits add to the value of the car?
Just also gotta say thanks forum for helping me through this.
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beemerbird
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Have you thought about going on a car insurance comparison site, and seeing what it would cost for you to insure either car?
You might find that this has a bearing on your choice
You might find that this has a bearing on your choice
If it ain't broke, fix it till it is
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Rosc0PColtrane
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Cab hoods have a life of about 10 years. Any damage like a ripped window, expect to have to replace the whole hood. Repairing them is the domain of a professional upholsterer. A new roof can be had for about £400 fitted.
Chavved up motors speak for themselves. Standard as poss and well maintained as opposed to Barry'd up and sold at the first sign of MOT renewal. Get a feel for the owner and how concise/vague his story is.
My suggestion would be a 318is for you. It would fit your needs almost perfectly!
This is a great place mate, enjoy your stay!
Chavved up motors speak for themselves. Standard as poss and well maintained as opposed to Barry'd up and sold at the first sign of MOT renewal. Get a feel for the owner and how concise/vague his story is.
My suggestion would be a 318is for you. It would fit your needs almost perfectly!
This is a great place mate, enjoy your stay!
Right, went to see both the cabs today.
1st saw the 320, no rust apart from a battery tray and a paint crack where the paint looks like its beginning to bubble - and what I suspect is the expected wear to the paint around the hood. 80K and it seemed very good, been garaged for a year and hadn't managed to charge batt enough to start it. Inside and out was very tidy - some minor blemishes and oxidised chrome but thats it. No mods ever apart from a crazy second key hole in the driver door for some nasty 80's alarm. Service history and reciepts, owned for 6 years by a bmw fan. Every thing seemed fine, apart from hood - big tear in rear window and some other smaller holes in fabric. Will return on sunday to test drive. No mods apart from no badges on rear and a crazy second aftermarket key hole in the driver door. Proabably for a nasty 80's alarm will have a hole underneath it. Also no tax.
then went to see the 325 - very ropey looking car, but the engine seemed very good - I would say no to this. Dont know what the engoine is worth but after seeing the 320 I would not have offered him more than a couple of hundred.
Can anyone help me with the following?
A new hood for £400 can be saved up for ,but is there any cheap/diy measures than can be taken to be able to leave it out in the rain over the winter???
The 320i has been stood for a year. If the engine runs a bit crap, how can I tell if its a real problem or just "blowing out the cobwebs"??? - the owner says it was started a few months ago and he said the idle seemed to race / be erratic - he mentioned something to do with the petrol turning to jelly?
1st saw the 320, no rust apart from a battery tray and a paint crack where the paint looks like its beginning to bubble - and what I suspect is the expected wear to the paint around the hood. 80K and it seemed very good, been garaged for a year and hadn't managed to charge batt enough to start it. Inside and out was very tidy - some minor blemishes and oxidised chrome but thats it. No mods ever apart from a crazy second key hole in the driver door for some nasty 80's alarm. Service history and reciepts, owned for 6 years by a bmw fan. Every thing seemed fine, apart from hood - big tear in rear window and some other smaller holes in fabric. Will return on sunday to test drive. No mods apart from no badges on rear and a crazy second aftermarket key hole in the driver door. Proabably for a nasty 80's alarm will have a hole underneath it. Also no tax.
then went to see the 325 - very ropey looking car, but the engine seemed very good - I would say no to this. Dont know what the engoine is worth but after seeing the 320 I would not have offered him more than a couple of hundred.
Can anyone help me with the following?
A new hood for £400 can be saved up for ,but is there any cheap/diy measures than can be taken to be able to leave it out in the rain over the winter???
The 320i has been stood for a year. If the engine runs a bit crap, how can I tell if its a real problem or just "blowing out the cobwebs"??? - the owner says it was started a few months ago and he said the idle seemed to race / be erratic - he mentioned something to do with the petrol turning to jelly?
