comps in the rear ???
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Alex
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is it worth putting components in the rear????
i cannot decide weather to put my sub in the boot and put some comps in the rear or just stick some decent 17cm ones in the shelf as im not after HUGE bass just some low down decent bass you can hear and feel without being silly
i cannot decide weather to put my sub in the boot and put some comps in the rear or just stick some decent 17cm ones in the shelf as im not after HUGE bass just some low down decent bass you can hear and feel without being silly
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aceraf
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You should balance you speakers against your bass...the more bass you have, the more speakers you need.
I would always have speakers upfront and in the back regardless if i've got bass or not...a decent set of components, or 6x9's, and i'd also have seperate tweeters aswell.
Get the sound right before you concentrate on bass.
I'd also run them off of an amp over even the best head-unit outputs.
I would always have speakers upfront and in the back regardless if i've got bass or not...a decent set of components, or 6x9's, and i'd also have seperate tweeters aswell.
Get the sound right before you concentrate on bass.
I'd also run them off of an amp over even the best head-unit outputs.
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Alex
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yer ive got some comps for the front infinity 5010cs in tweeter pods and a jbl gto4000 amp but i need something for the rear, i thought maby some comps in the back with a sub or just some decent 17cm speakers amp'edaceraf wrote:You should balance you speakers against your bass...the more bass you have, the more speakers you need.
I would always have speakers upfront and in the back regardless if i've got bass or not...a decent set of components, or 6x9's, and i'd also have seperate tweeters aswell.
Get the sound right before you concentrate on bass.
I'd also run them off of an amp over even the best head-unit outputs.
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Alex
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btw i dont want 6x9s as i dont want too cut metal or raise them as i think they look stupid when raised
ive got a sub too but it was only a 40-50 pound jbl one, will a better one give more clearer better sounding bass???

ive got a sub too but it was only a 40-50 pound jbl one, will a better one give more clearer better sounding bass???
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Alex
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anyone recommend comps in rear, i wanna get some tonight 
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aceraf
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Bass isn't jsut about the sub.Alex wrote:btw i dont want 6x9s as i dont want too cut metal or raise them as i think they look stupid when raised![]()
ive got a sub too but it was only a 40-50 pound jbl one, will a better one give more clearer better sounding bass???
You firstly need to make sure that you have the correct RMS power from the amp powering the sub.
Next and probably the most important thing...the box needs to be made to the correct spec. You'll be able to the spec for most subs online. You need to make sure that you have the correct Cubic capacity, but also the type of box will make a difference. Sealed will provide tighter punchier bass, where as ported will provide a deeper softer bass. You also have band-pass and alot of other designs that can also be considered, but then you're getting pretty complicated.
Do a search on google or something, and decide which box design suits the type of bass you wish to have.
Also worth considering is whether the sub/amp package can actually produce the frequencies you're wanting.
You do get what you pay for, but don't let anyone tell you that you can't get a decent system on a budget. you just need to plan everything properly.
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Alex
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i baught the sub with a box from http://www.caraudiocentre.co.uk/
i was briding my sub which gave 150rms power its a 4channel amp btw
i think the rms of the sub was 300w
its sealed aswell
is this ok??? will taking the ski hatch out do anything ???

i was briding my sub which gave 150rms power its a 4channel amp btw
i think the rms of the sub was 300w
its sealed aswell
is this ok??? will taking the ski hatch out do anything ???
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aceraf
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Can you provide a link to the actual sub/amp.Alex wrote:i baught the sub with a box from http://www.caraudiocentre.co.uk/
i was briding my sub which gave 150rms power its a 4channel amp btw
i think the rms of the sub was 300w
its sealed aswell
is this ok??? will taking the ski hatch out do anything ???
If you're only sending 150rms to a sub that needs 300rms then you'll end up damaging it. Aswell as getting shit sound. Subs shouldn't be underpowered just as they shouldn't be overpowered.
Taking the ski hatch out will be a must, and should be the 1st thing you do.
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Alex
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aceraf wrote:Can you provide a link to the actual sub/amp.Alex wrote:i baught the sub with a box from http://www.caraudiocentre.co.uk/
i was briding my sub which gave 150rms power its a 4channel amp btw
i think the rms of the sub was 300w
its sealed aswell
is this ok??? will taking the ski hatch out do anything ???
If you're only sending 150rms to a sub that needs 300rms then you'll end up damaging it. Aswell as getting shit sound. Subs shouldn't be underpowered just as they shouldn't be overpowered.
Taking the ski hatch out will be a must, and should be the 1st thing you do.
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Alex
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http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/produc ... /1006.html
thats the one
250rms not 300
amp
http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/produc ... /1180.html
i payed 80 quid for it a few month ago
if i can get my setup anywhere near as good as my dads 2005 730i sounded i will be happy, the bass was awsome and only came in when it needed if that makes sence
thats the one
250rms not 300
amp
http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/produc ... /1180.html
i payed 80 quid for it a few month ago
if i can get my setup anywhere near as good as my dads 2005 730i sounded i will be happy, the bass was awsome and only came in when it needed if that makes sence
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Alex
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http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/produc ... /1011.html
thats the sub box too
now thinking i might have got it all from that site
thats the sub box too
now thinking i might have got it all from that site
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aceraf
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That's a single coil sub, meaning that it will run at 4Ohms. So it needs 250W rms at 4Ohm.
That link doesn't provide the RMS for a bridged sub, but i'l doubt it's much more than 150rms from those figures.
That link doesn't provide the RMS for a bridged sub, but i'l doubt it's much more than 150rms from those figures.
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Alex
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so it should be ok, i relise its crapaceraf wrote:That's a single coil sub, meaning that it will run at 4Ohms. So it needs 250W rms at 4Ohm.
That link doesn't provide the RMS for a bridged sub, but i'l doubt it's much more than 150rms from those figures.
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Alex
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so with that sub would it improve the sound in the rear if i installed a set of these
http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/produc ... /6586.html
or would some normal full range coaxials be better
http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/produc ... /6586.html
or would some normal full range coaxials be better
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aceraf
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It'll run, but don't expect it to rock the world. You'll hear decent bass in the car, but you won't be heard coming from miles away.
By the way, if you wanted deep bass, then you should've gone for a 15" sub. 12" subs are suited to more punchy bass. Basically the bigger you go, the deeper the bass will drop.
By the way, if you wanted deep bass, then you should've gone for a 15" sub. 12" subs are suited to more punchy bass. Basically the bigger you go, the deeper the bass will drop.
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Alex
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aceraf wrote:It'll run, but don't expect it to rock the world. You'll hear decent bass in the car, but you won't be heard coming from miles away.
By the way, if you wanted deep bass, then you should've gone for a 15" sub. 12" subs are suited to more punchy bass. Basically the bigger you go, the deeper the bass will drop.
yer i relise its not going to be the worlds best sound system but as long as its failry decent, i will probs upgrade the sub and amp anyway at a later date
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Alex
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what you recon i should put on the back shelf then 
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aceraf
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You can't really have both, you can choose one or the other. Unless you have different subs for different sound frequencies.
Basically 12" subs are good for punchy bass....they can produce low bass, but you would have to set it up for that.
You'll probably want to invest in a decent graphic equaliser, so you can change it from punchy to deep bass when you want to.
Bare in mind that not all music has punchy + deep bass...most music will Either be punchy or slower and deeper bass.
Basically 12" subs are good for punchy bass....they can produce low bass, but you would have to set it up for that.
You'll probably want to invest in a decent graphic equaliser, so you can change it from punchy to deep bass when you want to.
Bare in mind that not all music has punchy + deep bass...most music will Either be punchy or slower and deeper bass.
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Alex
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but i really want to know whats best for the rear shelf
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Alex
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decided to play it safe and get a set of these for the rear
http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/vibe-sl ... bvhm0u7fj2
my front comps are 75w rms and these are 80w rms the amp produces 50w rms so would it be better to upgrade this to something that produces 80w rms per speaker, to get the full benifit of the speakers

http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/vibe-sl ... bvhm0u7fj2
my front comps are 75w rms and these are 80w rms the amp produces 50w rms so would it be better to upgrade this to something that produces 80w rms per speaker, to get the full benifit of the speakers
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aceraf
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Yes.Alex wrote: my front comps are 75w rms and these are 80w rms the amp produces 50w rms so would it be better to upgrade this to something that produces 80w rms per speaker, to get the full benifit of the speakers![]()
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Alex
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fingerman
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Nice - let us know the outcome of how it soundsAlex wrote:decided to play it safe and get a set of these for the rear
http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/vibe-sl ... bvhm0u7fj2
my front comps are 75w rms and these are 80w rms the amp produces 50w rms so would it be better to upgrade this to something that produces 80w rms per speaker, to get the full benifit of the speakers![]()
Previously owned loads of old E30s, E34s, a few E36s, E32s, E39s and an E38.
Currently in a diesel Audi - miss me old E30's....
Currently in a diesel Audi - miss me old E30's....
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Alex
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will do but it probly wont get put in till feb when the car is put on the road, might get it in earlier if we have any nice days over the winterfingerman wrote:Nice - let us know the outcome of how it soundsAlex wrote:decided to play it safe and get a set of these for the rear
http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/vibe-sl ... bvhm0u7fj2
my front comps are 75w rms and these are 80w rms the amp produces 50w rms so would it be better to upgrade this to something that produces 80w rms per speaker, to get the full benifit of the speakers![]()
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Alex
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anyway what am i on about, just relised it was the infinities i baught i nearly got vibe but got these are the fronts are infinity and they sound cool
http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/infinit ... p9hs4cfvr4
should i have got the vibes
http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/infinit ... p9hs4cfvr4
should i have got the vibes
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k13
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all u need is some 6.5" components up front and a sub in the boot. no point having any sort of speakers in the rear as the bass will just drown out the sound from the rear speakers . plus you can leave the rear speaker holes for air vent for the bass so you can feel the bass more. have the sub facing towards the back seats or have it facing upwards for more impact in the car. 
