getting close now...

Tue Sep 09, 2008 5:09 pm

sound mate, get some pics up!!

Tue Sep 09, 2008 9:17 pm

Is yours a standard bore block Rossle?

Did have a think about O-ringing the block but went with the MLS in the end as it meant I could have the bores to suit 85mm.

Glad to hear you're almost there mate!

Tue Sep 09, 2008 9:22 pm

Yeah mate, its still a 2.5, you could still oring.

Wed Sep 10, 2008 5:53 pm

Went to start the motor up, and forgot the engine earth, now my engine loom is fried!!!!!!!

so back to the drawing board..
I have decided to get it ready as much as i can and get it shipped upto ant and let him do the wiring all over, nice and neat, and get it running smooth cos i have had enough now and am almost ready to burn it.....

Wed Sep 10, 2008 9:36 pm

Are you going to Ants with the car dude, Let me know when it's going there and I'll pop down and say hi.

Wed Sep 10, 2008 9:40 pm

yes mate, jsut gonna find out if anything can be sorted first, if not then upto ants, but it will be takin a trip up there anyway to get tuned. i just hope i can sort it and drive it up as its £620 to get it taken to him on a trailor!!!

Wed Sep 10, 2008 9:47 pm

Start pushing!

Wed Sep 10, 2008 10:26 pm

i think might have to!!

Wed Oct 01, 2008 6:21 pm

shes running at last!!! theres a rattle on the top end wich im not happy about so il have to look into that as this is a fully rebuilt motor!

but it starts, it runs lumpy but that will be sorted through megatune..
so hopefully i will sort these problems and take her out to bed in the rings on the weekend, then its off to the sprayshop for the quarters to be painted.
then lots of pics and videos!!
BIG thanks to ANT@a-tech for lots of phone time and helping me start her just now,
and FLAPPYSOCKS(stuart)@diyefi for supplying my plug and play ecu, and lots of help too...

well chuffed..

Wed Oct 01, 2008 7:20 pm

rossle wrote:Yeah mate, its still a 2.5, you could still oring.

I haven´t seen that yet to do mls and o-ringing

Wed Oct 01, 2008 7:25 pm

Gunni wrote:
rossle wrote:Yeah mate, its still a 2.5, you could still oring.
I haven´t seen that yet to do mls and o-ringing

sorry, didnt mean MLS and oring, i meant he could still get it oringed even though the bores are bigger.

Thu Oct 02, 2008 8:57 am

well done dude!

I'm online in the evenings again, we must catch up!

P.s. Mrs cars a minty mint vulcan grey two door, think she fancies something newer and smaller, I'll keep you in mind when we come to move it on.

Fozz.

Thu Oct 02, 2008 6:40 pm

sound, cheers mark!
found out what the rattle was today, it was the power steering pully worked its way loose!! so tightend that up and now its nice and quiet.
also been playing round with the ve table when it was running and what a difference it makes instantly!!!! i love it..

its sarting to idle now but still very lumpy so needs alot of attention, the only thing im worried about now is its a new motor and i need to bed the rings in but need to get it running half decent first..
by the way mark, what temp should it idle at?
it went up to 94degrees, think i might have an air lock?
and my air temp sensor has stayed at -40 throughout?

Thu Oct 02, 2008 6:46 pm

Check your air temp sensor wiring. Thats probably why your idle is lumpy.
http://wiki.diyefi.co.uk/Converting_a_M ... t_-_Part_3

94degrees... did you change the firmware? It may be it's not set for a Bosch sensor.

Thu Oct 02, 2008 6:59 pm

the water temp was 94degrees, and the air temp stayed at -40degrees,
im not sure wich on the air temp senso is ground and wich is live, there is a plain brown wire, and i brown and orange striped wire??
might even need a new one..
what do you mean by change the firmwear?

Thu Oct 02, 2008 7:12 pm

As per the link. Did you connect the Temp sensor to the AFM connector?

Pin 1 Gray/Vio = Temp sensor
Pin 4 Gray/White = Temp sensor ground

A high coolant temperature sensor could mean two things... Your engine is getting hot

, or the temperature sensor isn't calibrated/faulty. Should be set ok on the firmware thats on there.

Thu Oct 02, 2008 7:24 pm

the brown and blue sensors on the thermostat housing are brand new. but the fan didnt come on? could that be a firmwear issue? bearing in mind the engine is new and the water system might need bleeding? but seems ok.
i might just buy a new air sensor from your shop just to make sure.

Thu Oct 02, 2008 7:33 pm

http://shop.diyefi.co.uk/index.php/mega ... r-iat.html
just ordered this from your shop, as mine is old anyway.
so with me bein stupid, i take it the black wire is ground and red is temp sensor?

Thu Oct 02, 2008 7:45 pm

Yeah, although it doesn't matter really which way round its connected. Connect it to your AFM connector (or chop the connector off). -40 means its not connected right now.

The overheating thing could be just a calibration problem (but dont take my word for it). Does the gauge on the dashboard look ok?

Thu Oct 02, 2008 7:52 pm

gauge on the dash was over between half and 3/4
the air temp sensor is connected to the afm wires already, so might be a faulty sensor then?
how would i go about calibrating the water temp sensor?

Thu Oct 02, 2008 8:05 pm

rossle wrote:gauge on the dash was over between half and 3/4

Bit high isnt it? Thats from the brown sensor, which is independent of MS. Never seen my E30's go beyond half way. Maybe others can comment? Interior heater working ok?

rossle wrote: the air temp sensor is connected to the afm wires already, so might be a faulty sensor then?

Surly it was ok on your last MS setup? Sure it's connected as described?

rossle wrote: how would i go about calibrating the water temp sensor?

Firmware update, with the correct config file. May not be the problem given what you have said. Should be set correctly anyway.

Thu Oct 02, 2008 8:13 pm

I've cheated a little and modded my cooling system to give a lower running temp, purley to allow the heat to build up but not push it too far, so my running temps are very low, my havin it large temps are just over 90'c.

I do see a rise of upto 8'c when booting it, that's one gear, so over the five it goes up quite a bit but never too much, well it has done and when it does I need a new headgasket! LOL

I use the stock temp sensor and the standard ms IAT, both read spot on as far as I know, had IAT's at 0'c today!!

Thu Oct 02, 2008 8:14 pm

didnt try the heater to be honest, il give it a go.
maybe the air temp sensor needed a clean, but there not expecive so at least if i have a new one il know its ok.
and i checked all my wiring a few times to be honest. nearly everything is brand new OEM.
il fit the new one and try the heater and see where i go from there.

Thu Oct 02, 2008 8:18 pm

What stat do you have? 88'c or the lower one, think it's 77'c.

Is it new?

Thu Oct 02, 2008 8:30 pm

dunno mate, just bought a new thermostat and housing and blue and brown sensors for a facelift m20 from zimmerbimmer1.
could it be cos i need to bleed the system?

Thu Oct 02, 2008 8:34 pm

more than likley.

they are sods. I usually try and get the front end jacked up and raise the res as high as poss, then fill up and run with heaters on, get it warm and then massage ALL of the pipes, use bleed nipple and keep checking the bottom hose too.

fill up the rad through the top pipe, saves waiting and trying to catch it when the stat opens.

Thu Oct 02, 2008 8:39 pm

sound cheers, got any tips about how to get a nice idle? and tuning the fuel map?

Thu Oct 02, 2008 8:45 pm

kinda.....

you use msnm?

Thu Oct 02, 2008 8:46 pm

fraid i cant get it on me laptop!
il try downloading it again

Thu Oct 02, 2008 8:48 pm

what about phone?

is you on our network? like local rate?

Or you can buzz me?

Thu Oct 02, 2008 8:53 pm

try and add me, blade3830@hotmail.com

Thu Oct 02, 2008 8:56 pm

Fri Oct 03, 2008 2:15 pm

How did you get on?

Sorry I had to go last night, felt quite ill for a few hours, ended up flat out on the coach feeling sorry for myself.

Did it all make sense? I listed as much as I could remember at the time.

Fozz.

Fri Oct 03, 2008 3:51 pm

yeah it helped, there was nothing in that bit, played round with the fuel and adjusted the throttle body and it idles around 1200, that will get a closer look later, took it out for a spin and part throttle is good but WOT needs alot of attention.
feck me though the turbo dont half make a loud whistle!!!
il get some more pics up tomorrow.
goin to the pub in a bit.

Fri Oct 03, 2008 4:20 pm

rossle wrote:yeah it helped, there was nothing in that bit, played round with the fuel and adjusted the throttle body and it idles around 1200, that will get a closer look later, took it out for a spin and part throttle is good but WOT needs alot of attention.
feck me though the turbo dont half make a loud whistle!!!
il get some more pics up tomorrow.
goin to the pub in a bit.

WOT already? You nutter!!!

I'd be staying on the drive until the fecker idled and free revved showing good AFRS and no issues. Then start the driving about but no WOT til it's sorted, in fact no WOT till it's tuned, that's where you will pop it if the tune is bad, I should know LOL, done that myself.

Holsets makes an awesome noise, mines pretty damn loud and screams lie no other, the screamer pipe is louder and covers it up a little but you can't not hear the scream it makes.

I don't drive with the windows up much more.

Re idle, did you set fixed timing?

When it's at 1200 and good afrs, then take some air out on the TB and then adjust fuel down to suit, do it in small amounts and you will be ale to tune down the idle to about 900 or so, I use 900/950 as it gives a good low map, aim for 35ish map value at idle, lower if you can get it.

Just wish you had the same injectors as me so I could give you the values I have, trust you to go buy bigger one! LOL

Fozz.