Studded block

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BadDave
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Post Sat Sep 06, 2008 12:01 pm

As per title
Is it worth going for a stud and nut/through bolt setup or would 12.9/metric blues suffice bearing in mind,i'm planning on an M20B28 with a rather large, uprated Garrett T04E and in excess of 1 bar of boost(got most of the parts required)

I've been given a set of 12.9 headbolts, but just wondered if it would be better to opt for a through bolt setup

Has anyone already done it?

Any comments for/against most welcome

Cheers

Dave
Alpina B10 3.2L #187 (1 of 64 brought into the UK)
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maggspower
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Post Sat Sep 06, 2008 12:45 pm

Hi there, 12.9's are good for a high ouput N/A application, but i rekon studs would be better. I'm pretty sure ARP do a set, but you might have to do a little reasearch and order them from the good ol' USA, hurry up though the £ is getting weaker against the$.

Are you using the m52 single vanos crank? if so how power much do you think it can take? Ive got one and am planing a little forced induction myself :)

hope that helps maggs
BadDave
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Post Sat Sep 06, 2008 10:41 pm

I think the crank i have is the TU version.I'm unable to confirm this at the moment
If it's a major issue then it'll just have to be a 2.9 with custom pistons

E36/E46 motors get by with 450-500bhp(supercharged)on std cranks so hopefully it won't be too much of an issue

ARP don't list a stud/nut kit in there online catalogue(bugger)
Alpina B10 3.2L #187 (1 of 64 brought into the UK)
2.8L turbo build thread(work in progress)
http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... 27#1268227
Colonel Sanders
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Post Sun Sep 07, 2008 12:21 am

try vacmotorsports.com i got my arp studs for my m20 from there
BadDave
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Post Sun Sep 07, 2008 7:07 am

rossle wrote:try vacmotorsports.com i got my arp studs for my m20 from there
Is that a through bolts setup I.E block gets drilled and bolt head is in the sump area) or just longer studs and nut kit??
Alpina B10 3.2L #187 (1 of 64 brought into the UK)
2.8L turbo build thread(work in progress)
http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... 27#1268227
stonesie
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Post Sun Sep 07, 2008 11:30 am

Not all the way through the block, the only engine i have worked on thats used that idea was the Rover K series, an engine most noteable for its headgasket problems.

http://store.nexternal.com/shared/Store ... oducts.asp
Thats the link you wan't, they just replace the head bolts but can take much more force.

Click hardware, then head stud kits and your there :wink:
BadDave
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Post Sun Sep 07, 2008 5:58 pm

stonesie wrote:Not all the way through the block, the only engine i have worked on thats used that idea was the Rover K series, an engine most noteable for its headgasket problems.
It is quite common to do it on competition motors

Just weighning up the options at the moment TBH

It would be convenient to do it when the blocks(M20B20) in the shop getting bored to accept the 84mm pistons.

Much less chance of blowing the gasket if it's done 1st instead of having to remove the engine again to do it at a later date.

Just trying to build a reasonably"bullet proof" motor for a start rather than have it let go not long after it's in the car.
Alpina B10 3.2L #187 (1 of 64 brought into the UK)
2.8L turbo build thread(work in progress)
http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... 27#1268227