For the servo/MS clearance can't you do what us S50 guys have done and move the servo over 60mm, fit a smaller servo and an audi master cylinder? That'd give you all the clearance you need....
Should be some pictures of mine here: http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... c&start=25
HTH
E30 with SR20DET
Moderator: martauto
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jaistanley
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Remote servo is an option Gareth, though it was something I was hoping not to have to do.
I measued from the back of the engine do the gearshift area, allowing for an inch clearance to the bulkhead and the checked this against the e30, and suprisingly the gearshift lines up perfectly! The M30 stuff is all removed now, so I can dangle the SR20 in there soon and start making progress. The front of my car is all stripped down so I might make the intercooler and radiator mounts
Jai, I'm already using a smaller servo (golf mk1) but moving it further over couldn't hurt. I take it there are no dramas extending the brake linkage from the pedal box?
I measued from the back of the engine do the gearshift area, allowing for an inch clearance to the bulkhead and the checked this against the e30, and suprisingly the gearshift lines up perfectly! The M30 stuff is all removed now, so I can dangle the SR20 in there soon and start making progress. The front of my car is all stripped down so I might make the intercooler and radiator mounts
Jai, I'm already using a smaller servo (golf mk1) but moving it further over couldn't hurt. I take it there are no dramas extending the brake linkage from the pedal box?
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jaistanley
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Nah. Just a bit of cutting and welding, then extending the tap on an E34 pull rod and shortening it to fit nicely. You'll see once you've made the plates for either side of the bulkhead and first bolted the servo in. I have more detailed pictures here somewhere if you need them uploading.
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fuzzy
- He who sleeps with "Gingers"
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whats involved in using and setting up a remote servo system? that engine looks about the same size as my cosworth and mine required some jiggling around to fit past the servo.yours looks like it will be tighter with the turbo at the servo side
Cheers for that Jai. Andrew tells me that the e34 pull rod is stiffer, so that would be a worthwhile swap anyway I suppose. I know its a simple thing, but are there any drawings for the servo relocation plates? Those pics would be interesting to see, no rush though.jaistanley wrote:Nah. Just a bit of cutting and welding, then extending the tap on an E34 pull rod and shortening it to fit nicely. You'll see once you've made the plates for either side of the bulkhead and first bolted the servo in. I have more detailed pictures here somewhere if you need them uploading.
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Karan
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extensive bodging will be needed when it breaks on the nordschleife.Theo325 wrote:The 316 badge is of course staying JamesWill the wife sanction a turbo on your car?
Extensive testing on the Nordschleife is needed as soon as the SR20 swap is done...
i am 90% sure that the gbox hole thingy is not an issue
remember that you can only move the engine as far back as the oil pan at the front of the sr20det will allow before it hits the rack....
Mounts should be easy to bodge together
In preparation for my molestation of ure turd on tuesday i have been practising pigeon shit repairing my exhaust today
Its now mega strengthened ...but weighs about 50kg more now!
anyway off to pigeon shit that diff
Karan
No doubt! If your ricer melted the wiring and ignition amplifier then we can't hold our hopes too high for the longevity of my brake fluid resevoir...extensive bodging will be needed when it breaks on the nordschleife
We need some 6/7/8mm steel for the mounts I rekon, and alot of pigeon shit I suppose.
What do you rekon to those stainless turbo elbows off ebay? Need a new gasket and it's only £25 extra to get the elbow which comes with the gasket....
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Karan
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stainless elbows are ok.... but i wouldnt worry about it just yetTheo325 wrote:No doubt! If your ricer melted the wiring and ignition amplifier then we can't hold our hopes too high for the longevity of my brake fluid resevoir...extensive bodging will be needed when it breaks on the nordschleife
We need some 6/7/8mm steel for the mounts I rekon, and alot of pigeon shit I suppose.
What do you rekon to those stainless turbo elbows off ebay? Need a new gasket and it's only £25 extra to get the elbow which comes with the gasket....
and i bet you that elbow doesnt come with a genuine datsun gasket but a shitty one instead..
only the datsun ones last
ill pick up some 6mm tomorrow
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Karan
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http://images.turbomagazine.com/feature ... ne_bay.jpg
a plate with reflective stuff on it is what i'm gonna do to mine, i reckon that will be fine on yours...easily bodged together
oh i think i have a spare genuine gasket lying around, ill bring it along
a plate with reflective stuff on it is what i'm gonna do to mine, i reckon that will be fine on yours...easily bodged together
oh i think i have a spare genuine gasket lying around, ill bring it along
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Karan
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the engine will still be plenty far back....remember it is ally block and weighs less than an m40 so it doesnt need to be up against the bulkheadfuzzy wrote:a new reshaped oil pan can be fabricated quite easilty to allow it to clear the steering rack. thats what happened with mine.
Wow look at that rice engine bay! Some sort of heatshield will do the trick I suppose.
If you could bring that gasket that would be cool, i'll sort you out the monies. Same for those studs actually. My turbo has 3 studs in it at present, are the other two (top ones) studs or bolts?
Just checked the thickness of the Nissan engine mount arms and they are only 4mm...
If you could bring that gasket that would be cool, i'll sort you out the monies. Same for those studs actually. My turbo has 3 studs in it at present, are the other two (top ones) studs or bolts?
Just checked the thickness of the Nissan engine mount arms and they are only 4mm...
Great project Theo, I will be watching this thread with interest dude! 
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Karan
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all studs but the studs nissan use as original are real high quality, so ill steal a pair from my old shagged T28, i have also used M8 M20 exhaust studs beforeTheo325 wrote:Wow look at that rice engine bay! Some sort of heatshield will do the trick I suppose.
If you could bring that gasket that would be cool, i'll sort you out the monies. Same for those studs actually. My turbo has 3 studs in it at present, are the other two (top ones) studs or bolts?
Just checked the thickness of the Nissan engine mount arms and they are only 4mm...
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oldroydsr4
- E30 Zone Squatter
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Any chance you could get dimensions of the engine mounts as you fab them?
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oldroydsr4
- E30 Zone Squatter
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my thoughts exactly.
Last edited by oldroydsr4 on Wed Aug 20, 2008 9:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Substantial bit of progress today. Karan came over for a good old fashioned bodgefest, and we got the engine correctly positioned (difficult on uneven ground). We put a plate on the e30 poly engine mount and a plate on the base of the Nissan engine mounting arm and then welded a bit of rod in between the two plates. This gave us a model with the important surfaces in the correct position, so now it's just a matter of welding up proper mounts using these dimensions.
Here are a couple of pics showing the engine position, lots of clearance behind the engine meaning that gearbox changes will be much easier than on a BMW boat anchor. Probably a good thing given the fussy Nissan gearboxes.
We also cobbled up a gearbox mount, and took measurements for the propshaft. Currently undecided as to what type of prop is best. A one piece with a UJ at either end. Or a two piece using a centre bearing but with 3 UJ's. The design of the Nissan propshaft means that a 2 piece prop with 2 UJ's isn't possible.
Here are a couple of pics showing the engine position, lots of clearance behind the engine meaning that gearbox changes will be much easier than on a BMW boat anchor. Probably a good thing given the fussy Nissan gearboxes.
We also cobbled up a gearbox mount, and took measurements for the propshaft. Currently undecided as to what type of prop is best. A one piece with a UJ at either end. Or a two piece using a centre bearing but with 3 UJ's. The design of the Nissan propshaft means that a 2 piece prop with 2 UJ's isn't possible.
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winx
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looking good Theo, will follow with interest!
Replaced the rocker on the old anchor today during lunch break and started stripping everything else for a freshen up!
Just looking for the rest of the car now! PM also on the way...
Replaced the rocker on the old anchor today during lunch break and started stripping everything else for a freshen up!
Just looking for the rest of the car now! PM also on the way...
Theo, what a fantastic project!
That car is going to be a great weapon, you and Karan are proper heroes!
I know a bloke who put an SR20det in an MGB Roadster!
It was feckin' fast though, before someone drove into the side of it.
If you get stuck with wiring or anything I might be able to get info from him for you.
That car is going to be a great weapon, you and Karan are proper heroes!
I know a bloke who put an SR20det in an MGB Roadster!
It was feckin' fast though, before someone drove into the side of it.
If you get stuck with wiring or anything I might be able to get info from him for you.
Jeremy Clarkson wrote:...but it drives the front wheels. Theee wrooong wheels!
da4x4turbo wrote:I raced a vivaro on the motorway once in a 318is.... and lost!!!
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handpaper
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Since the breakdown and associated hassle getting home, SWMBO has sanctioned the creation of a DRTTheo325 wrote:The 316 badge is of course staying James
Extensive testing on the Nordschleife is needed as soon as the SR20 swap is done...
I've already acquired (cheers Raul) a 320i Touring to play family car/holiday transport, so the 325 is to be stripped, caged and left in das Vaterland six months of the year.
Since it doesn't have to move kids, shopping or trailers any more, spec is up to me
PS - when you've finished, I demand a lap. Should be awesome!
Good effort, should be plenty strong enough. Can't wait to fit them and really get going with the work now.
I'm still struggling to see what prop design will allow me to be able to remove the propshaft easily. Might have to incorporate that 4 bolt flange on the front nissan prop... Might email Jesus and see if he has the rear part of the nissan prop available.
I'm still struggling to see what prop design will allow me to be able to remove the propshaft easily. Might have to incorporate that 4 bolt flange on the front nissan prop... Might email Jesus and see if he has the rear part of the nissan prop available.