Torx TX55 removal?

[pony2]

Ok, I'm trying to remove the rear bumper X2 T55 fasteners to remove.

I purchased a 3/8 Halfords "professional" socket for the job. Lots of WD40 and nothing. So longer socket wrench (i.e scaffold tube) gave it a good tug (calm down) and broke the T55 socket.

Halfords have a lifetime guarantee on these tools so I have exchanged for a new one. I'd like to get some heat involved but there is lots of plastic about.

Any help would be appreciated, I could give some force again but I'm concerned that I'll snap the T55 and have another trip to halfords (they are now out of stock).

[Jon_Bmw]

Shock it off? Just make sure the socket remains in the bumper bolt, you do not want to round that!

I took my front ones off the other day and managed it with a normal 1/2 inch ratchet, I must have been lucky. Even those were badly corroded on the threads. The problem is you can't really squirt any penertrating oil in the right place with the bumper on

[pony2]

Cheers Jon, I have been very careful to make sure the socket remains in the bolt.

Shock it off? Translate please.

[Jon_Bmw]

'Gentle' persuasion with a hammer or the butt of your palm on the end of the ratchet/bar.

Have a quick search and wait for some more answers, I wouldn't want there to be an easy way and you to snap the bolt

[pony2]

Thanks Jon.

[DHFiS]

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do ... g=51&fg=15

I got mine off by removing the 4 bolts that hold the bumper mount and leaving the torx bolts in place (part 8 on the realoem diagram).
Access is a bit tricky over the exhaust but I bent a ring spanner to fit.

[pony2]

Going to have a look, not sure I want to bend me spanners though.

[pony2]

Managed to snap the bit again, was giving it wobble force.

The bolts you mention DHF are tricky to find, I know two are behind the rear moulding, can't even see the other two.

[shedrool83]

I got my front and back bumper off using one of these babies.

http://www.argos.co.uk/webapp/wcs/store ... mit=GO+%3E

the bolts came out no problem with it but i couldn't get them loose with a ratchet.

HTH

[Martinaston]

Obvious but you never know, You are pulling it the right way ?

[DHFiS]

One of the nuts on the drivers side is undone from inside the boot , my car had a flap cut in the boot lining. The other three nuts I could see with the back jacked up.

[Theo]

Obvious but you never know, You are pulling it the right way ?

I was thinking the same...

[pony2]

Obvious but you never know, You are pulling it the right way ?

I'm pretty dumb but not that dumb, but thanks.

I'm getting enough force into the wrench with long leverage, it the bit thats not up to it. No sign of any damage to the T55 head.

Previous owner like to sail at sea, maybe salt corrosion although the car is quite rust free.

[Theo]

Halfords sell a 1/2" T55 bit, it's never let me down.

[pony2]

I was thinking of the 1/2",I believe the stem is more sturdy which is where mine keep failing. Looks like more expense then. Cheers Theo, will let you know if it snaps or turns.

[DHFiS]

Sounds like you need a better torx bit if the bit fails before the bolt. I assume the bolt is only mild steel.

[pony2]

BMW mild steel.

[Jon_Bmw]

Oh bloody hell. I didn't read your post, I thought you were using a 1/2" drive. I would take that one back and exchange it for a 1/2" one. Shouldn't break that, they are quite commonly used on head bolts amoung other things.

[stonesie]

1/2'' drive bit and a 24'' breaker bar should see it shift.

[Globulator]

3/8 are only about 1/2 the strength of 1/2" IIRC - I'm not sure I'd use a scaffold bar even on a snap-on 3/8ths.
1/2" should be fine - there is much more metal on the socket etc.

One thing that does help me is a oxygen+gas welding set - you can get the tiny benzomatic ones at various tool places. The problem with a blow-torch is the spread of the flame - a 5mm long blue oxygen assisted flame gets the heat in extremely quickly and locally and has solved many a problem for me. Have some way of putting out flames nearby just in case though