Ultimate I.C.E in cabby?

In Car Entertainment - NO SELLING OF I.C.E. PLEASE

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snoops
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Post Sun Jul 20, 2008 1:20 am

basically what is the best combination of I.C.E. for an e30 convertible bearing in mind the limited boot space

I'm looking for front/rear speaker ideas

and also possible boot install ideas - wanting deeeep loud bass, maybe get rid of the spare wheel?

as for budget, I don't really have a budget at the mo, just looking for suggestions so that I can create a budget :lol:

any suggestions from the i.c.e. gurus would be much appreciated

:thumb:
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Post Sun Jul 20, 2008 6:50 pm

hello mate. have a look at my install tread. might not be what your after but its gonna be loud.
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chu346
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Post Mon Jul 21, 2008 10:19 am

For the "Ultimate" how about a 3way set up up front with a tweeter behind the door mirrors, a 5.25" in stock location and 6.5" in a door pod. This should be powered from a pair of amplifiers (one per side). In the boot you should have 3x12"s sealed or 2 ported and a juicy mono block amp.
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Post Mon Jul 21, 2008 11:58 am

well, i dont know whether you'd go for this particular sort of setup, but just a suggestion.

GIGA 6x9's in doors using the pods available (1000w peak each speaker/350w RMS)

uprated rear speakers, i cant remember 100%. but i think the average output on the same make as the GIGA ones were, 500w RMS from the pair. so thats 1000w peak.

so just with that 3000w top vocals. a decent 4 channel amp will be enough to power them.

2 pairs of tweeters scattered around the car, which you could run from the same amp by bridging or just run them direct from the head unit.

in the boot, considering you cant avoid the rattle even with a baby sub, just go extreme, so the bass is louder than it. lol.

either a jl audio competition sub, but if your on a reasonable budget, like i am. just go for a pioneer 3000w sub, or the jbl 5000w. prefer pioneer as its more deep bass. your gona need a real big box for it to reduce the rattle.

hope that was helpful, and now a little question...

is it true that there is less rattle and the bass is better, using a bass tube? as my mate claims that it was the case when he did this in his e30, but i didn't here it so cant be assured
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Post Mon Jul 21, 2008 2:15 pm

MAJ-POWER wrote:well, i dont know whether you'd go for this particular sort of setup, but just a suggestion.

GIGA 6x9's in doors using the pods available (1000w peak each speaker/350w RMS)

uprated rear speakers, i cant remember 100%. but i think the average output on the same make as the GIGA ones were, 500w RMS from the pair. so thats 1000w peak.

so just with that 3000w top vocals. a decent 4 channel amp will be enough to power them.

2 pairs of tweeters scattered around the car, which you could run from the same amp by bridging or just run them direct from the head unit.

in the boot, considering you cant avoid the rattle even with a baby sub, just go extreme, so the bass is louder than it. lol.

either a jl audio competition sub, but if your on a reasonable budget, like i am. just go for a pioneer 3000w sub, or the jbl 5000w. prefer pioneer as its more deep bass. your gona need a real big box for it to reduce the rattle.

hope that was helpful, and now a little question...

is it true that there is less rattle and the bass is better, using a bass tube? as my mate claims that it was the case when he did this in his e30, but i didn't here it so cant be assured
:lol:



Your post is intended as a joke, right?
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Post Mon Jul 21, 2008 2:25 pm

chu346 wrote:
MAJ-POWER wrote:well, i dont know whether you'd go for this particular sort of setup, but just a suggestion.

GIGA 6x9's in doors using the pods available (1000w peak each speaker/350w RMS)

uprated rear speakers, i cant remember 100%. but i think the average output on the same make as the GIGA ones were, 500w RMS from the pair. so thats 1000w peak.

so just with that 3000w top vocals. a decent 4 channel amp will be enough to power them.

2 pairs of tweeters scattered around the car, which you could run from the same amp by bridging or just run them direct from the head unit.

in the boot, considering you cant avoid the rattle even with a baby sub, just go extreme, so the bass is louder than it. lol.

either a jl audio competition sub, but if your on a reasonable budget, like i am. just go for a pioneer 3000w sub, or the jbl 5000w. prefer pioneer as its more deep bass. your gona need a real big box for it to reduce the rattle.

hope that was helpful, and now a little question...

is it true that there is less rattle and the bass is better, using a bass tube? as my mate claims that it was the case when he did this in his e30, but i didn't here it so cant be assured
:lol:



Your post is intended as a joke, right?
glad to know it made you laugh. but why, thats what i'd like to know
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Post Mon Jul 21, 2008 3:39 pm

Where to start?
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Post Mon Jul 21, 2008 5:11 pm

GIGA 6x9's in doors using the pods available (1000w peak each speaker/350w RMS) Why would you consider these to be good speakers? The guy's asking about an ultimate setup and these speakers are full range, component speakers are always better. Also a 3 way setup as I suggested will put the midbass in the doors and the main vocal speakers which are very directional in the kick panels which means that you will have more of an equal distance between the two speakers and the listener(s).

uprated rear speakers, i cant remember 100%. but i think the average output on the same make as the GIGA ones were, 500w RMS from the pair. so thats 1000w peak.What size uprated rear speakers are you talking about? 5.25"? a 5.25" speaker with 250wrms is such a waste and I can't see how it could possibly use all that power.

These GIGA speakers are crap and the are actually made by boschmann who make some of the worst speakers i've ever heard.

so just with that 3000w top vocals. a decent 4 channel amp will be enough to power them.What would you consider a decent amp, I would love to see a couple of examples. Ideally you want to match the amps power to the speaker power, so you will be needing 1200wrms then just for the mids/high range. I've not seen many 4 channel amps which are capable of that. A D-class subwoofer amp which doesn't sound as good as a normal amp needs about 80-90amps of power to run 1200wrms. I think a normal alternator puts out 60-80amps, where is all this extra power going to come from? You still need to add a bass amp yet.

The reason I said to use two separate amps is for stereo separation to prevent the left and right signals getting mixed like you do on integrated amps.

2 pairs of tweeters scattered around the car, which you could run from the same amp by bridging or just run them direct from the head unit. Would you not use a x-over inline with the tweeters? Also why would you need two pairs when you would already have a set in the 6x9's and a set in the rear speakers?

your gona need a real big box for it to reduce the rattle.:wtf: :wtf: :wtf:

is it true that there is less rattle and the bass is better, using a bass tube? as my mate claims that it was the case when he did this in his e30, but i didn't here it so cant be assured Rattle isn't good because is sounds bad and can distort the bass which is being produced. A little bit of rattle won't hurt depending on what's rattling and what is connected to it. In your case you've got alot more to worry about than a bit of rattle.

I could have wrote more but got bored.
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Post Mon Jul 21, 2008 11:46 pm

chu346 wrote:For the "Ultimate" how about a 3way set up up front with a tweeter behind the door mirrors, a 5.25" in stock location and 6.5" in a door pod. This should be powered from a pair of amplifiers (one per side). In the boot you should have 3x12"s sealed or 2 ported and a juicy mono block amp.

I'm liking the idea of a 3 way set up up front, would these be ok for the rear?

Link


also if I were to add some speakers in the rear, I take it I would need a 4 channel amplifier per side?

Finally if I were to purchase everything, how much do you think it would cost me to get a custom install created to hold the subs and amps in the boot?

TIA
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Post Tue Jul 22, 2008 12:20 am

Looking at that link it tells me your not after "Ultimate" because that stuff is crap. My mate bought the amp and one of those subs before. The amp broke, and he had some other problem with the sub.

also if I were to add some speakers in the rear, I take it I would need a 4 channel amplifier per side? You really don't need the rears with the amount of sound which will be coming from the front you won't hear them :D

What size subs would you like? and how many?

When are you wanting to have the install done by, because I could probably do it all in a day if all the parts are ready.
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Post Tue Jul 22, 2008 1:24 am

I have no idea what is good or crap in the I.C.E. world :lol:

I would prefer 15s as I like the type of bass they produce, however I have also heard that good quality 12s can produce an equal if not better sound quality?

the I.C.E. isn't a top priority at the moment as I've gotta bring the car back up to scratch with some light restoration before I'll have any money to play with, at the moment I just want to get an idea of how much it will cost me so I can start saving :lol:

Once I have all of the parts, I'll definitely get in touch with you if thats ok? as I'd prefer someone who knows their stuff with regards to I.C.E. in an e30 cab does it

What subs would you recommend for a cab?
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Post Tue Jul 22, 2008 4:33 pm

How much boot space are you willing to give up?

Are you after a pretty install or a great sounding install? This boot install looks good but more performance can be had http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... c&t=108156 it does look good though.

Normally when people look in my boot, they'll see the top of an mdf box and nothing else. I've done some nice installs for my friends but there is always a compromise.

I've done 4x10"s, 2x12"ported, 1x15" sealed then settled on ported, before I sold the car. Almost any thing can be done.
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Post Wed Jul 23, 2008 12:46 am

I'm after performance really although I would like it to be reasonably pretty

I'm willing to give all of the boot space really including the spare wheel well, however if it is possible to gain good performance from an install that will let me access the spare wheel then I would prefer that, or even just a little bit of space to fit something in if I ever needed to :lol:

re: the size of the sub(s), I'm not really bothered as I don't have a great experience with different subs and don't really know whats good for what, I want it to sound like thunder :lol:, very deep bass that hits you hard winkeye
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Post Wed Jul 23, 2008 5:49 pm

Simple then, put the amps under where the roof sits, a pair of 12's in a large rectangular box with a port going out to each wing. The box will be virtually the size of the boot and have a ledge on the side so you can pull it out easy. This will give you access to the spare wheel and allow you to full remove if you need to use the boot. The amps will be stationary and you can use a banana plug to connect to the box.

You should be able to do all this yourself, when your ready i'll give you the dimensions, etc.
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Post Thu Jul 24, 2008 7:01 pm

Ultimate install - lose the rear seats!!!!!!!!! Amps (processors, eq's whatever) in the boot, subs where the back seats were, front components (in custom builds) - job jobbed!!!

In mine i'm having DLS top end 3 way components on the top end DLS amp and as i'm trying to keep a little bit of boot space (in a touring!) i'm just having one JL 13W7 on a JL 1000/1 amp.

If i had a never ending budget, there are some better/pricier bits i would be using, but hey, money is running out!!!

If you want proper ideas and you have money to bring to the party, let me know!!!!
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Post Thu Jul 24, 2008 7:10 pm

Oh yeah, head unit will affect it too - I have my eye on a new nakamichi, but have run out of funds at the mo!!!
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Post Thu Jul 24, 2008 7:14 pm

Oh yeah, and when you say you're after 'performance' - are we talking sound quality, or massive bass???
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Post Thu Jul 24, 2008 11:47 pm

miniblob wrote:Oh yeah, and when you say you're after 'performance' - are we talking sound quality, or massive bass???
massive bass winkeye
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Post Fri Jul 25, 2008 1:22 pm

Deffo lose the rear seats then bruv!!!!! Could do an awesome install then!!!!
You will never get the same level of bass from porting through a box in the boot!!

Deep loud bass / streetbass - stick a few 15's where the back seats were and trim it up nice to match the interior!!! I reckon you could get more than 3 in there if you wanna put the effort in!!!

You must have an idea of what you can/will spend?? The word 'ultimate' would make me think there's no end to your money!!!!!!!!! lol!!!!!

Generally, the more you spend, the better the sound quality will be, but you can get 'good' bass from some fairly cheap kit nowadays!!

You can spend anywhere from £50 to £1k+ per sub - what subs will depend how much power you want (rms) which will change what amp(s) you buy - may need to be 1/2 ohm stable.
Fronts - any price you wanna spend really!
H/U again, any amount you wanna spend - the amps will have filters so you don't necessarily need loads of features on the H/U, just front/sub outputs!

And don't forget to account for the cost of sound deadening (surprisingly costly!), cables, second battery maybe (depending on the amps), and installation!!!
Can save a lot of money doing the install yourself.
It's worth paying attention to the box design for the subs too, as this will affect the output of the subs and the type of bass you get!!

Also, well worth looking out for second hand kit on ebay and on the talkaudio forum - i've bought quite a lot of nearly new and even some new bits through those and saved a lot of money!!
Especially as you're not after specific kit, someone may be selling three mid-range subs for cheap, if they're upgrading, etc!!
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Post Fri Jul 25, 2008 4:29 pm

thanks for the info, I'm looking to spend around £1.5k for everything in total, if I have to go higher than I possibly could with a push

don't really want to get rid of the rear seats - in a saloon/touring I wouldn't mind but as it's a cabby I'd rather leave them in
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Post Tue Jul 29, 2008 1:08 am

That budget and keeping the rear seats, I reckon like chu said - pair of 12's ported through. Nice set of components up front (on their own amp) and would deffo go without rear speakers - for the time being at least!!!
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Post Tue Jul 29, 2008 1:12 am

Actually - Just do this!!!!!! CLICKY

Is that anyone on here?? Is there a user 'Flamez' on here???

Should be awesome!!!

Might not be room to do it in the cab though - no experience of cab boots - but you must be able to do it with 12's???
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Post Mon Aug 04, 2008 4:45 am

ONE New Orion (very good prices) or W7 both hit low deep notes!! and you can make the box according to the boot size n shape!