How do I ......

[GDBN]

Before the head comes back from the machine shop ...... How do I

1 - clean the oil /coolant from the engine block where the head mounting bolts screw down (undersatnd these need to be be clean as a nuns mind) ???
2 - get the remnants of the head gasket off the block ???
3 - remove the carbon deposits from the piston heads ???
4 - clean the sides of the bores where the pistons travel ???
5 - Flush the oil system from having had coolant in it ???

and johnono ....how`s tricks ??

Giles

And any tricks on painting the rocker cover ....would love the black finish with the bmw bit highlighted ??

[johnono]

easy son

have this
Basic Servicing of an m20

Just got your first 6 pot e30?!
DonÔš't know when it was last serviced?
Scared of the Spanner?!
This guide was made for you!

The m20 engine is actually a really pleasant engine to work on, provided you follow these basic rulesԚ…

1.Respect it (bolts are more likely to shear if you hit the spanner with a sledge hammer!)
2.Stay calm and take your time.
3.DonÔš't get distracted. Keep Children, pets and nagging wives/husbands well away.

To make your m20 purr like a kitty at idle, roar like a lion through the rev range, and scream like Steve Tyler at the limiter you'll needԚ…

Coolant Change
5L of Coolant (mix it 50/50 water/antifreeze)
Flat blade screw driver (for releasing coolant pipes)
10mm socket (for thermostat housing)
8mm socket (for bleed nipple)

Oil Change
5L of engine oil (5w-40, 10w-40 or 10w-50 as recommended by Simon aka oilman)
GENUINE Fram oil filter (has all the non return valves etc, and worth the money)
17mm socket + wrench (for sump plug)

Spark Plug Change
6x Spark Plugs, preferably NGK brand (NGK BPR6ES)
Masking tape + pen
19mm Spark plug tool














Overview of an m20

Pre-facelift (up to 1988-chrome bumpers)


Facelift (1988 on plastic bumpers)


do the coolant firstԚ…

RHS=Right Hand Side, LHS=Left Hand Side (sitting in driverÔš's seat)

IMPORTANT!!!! MAKE SURE THE CAR AND COOLANT ARE COLD BEFORE OPENING THE CAP ON THE EXPANSION TANK OR DRAINING COOLANT!!!!!!!

****spray the bleed nipple with WD40 the night before you do this****

****Disconnect Battery****


1.Loosen off and remove the cap on the header tank (On RHS next to wing)
Check the tank and cap for Ԛâ€ËamayoÔš' which is a sign that oil is mixing with the coolant (not good). Move the heater temp control to fully cold to prevent air locks in the heater matrix
Also check that the bottom is yellow and rated at 140.If not go to the dealer and get one. (they were subject to a recall years ago as the originals werenÔš't up to the job)
2.Undo bottom hose from radiator at RHS of the car, let coolant drain (catch it in a bucket and dispose of properly)
3.Undo the 3x 10mm bolts on the thermostat housing (at the front of the engine, in front of the distributor cap) (may need to remove small fuel hose to access one of the top bolts)
4.Remove thermostat, and check its ok (should be closed if cold) If in doubt an new one is Ԛ£9.99 from GSF/ECP. Bolt housing back together.
5.Insert hose into header tank (next to RHS wing) and flush system until water is running clear.
6.Remove top hose (LHS) from radiator and flush through with hose until clear
7.Replace the thermostat, and reattach all hoses
8.Pour the coolant into the header tank (located on RHS next to wing) SLOWLY and give it time to settle. (should take about 4.5l to get to cold level marker)
9.Set the heaters to full (HOT and no. 4 fan setting, open all vents) and start car.
10.Let car idle for 5-10mins keeping an eye on the temp gauge
11.Open the 8mm bleed nipple (on top of the thermostat housing) and allow air to escape, then close.
12.Repeat bleeding until all air is out and only water comes out when bleed nipple is opened. Top up if required.
13.Get a cup of coffee and relax for 20 mins











oil change is easy...

****Wear latex gloves to save your skin****

1.Switch car off (oil should be warm so as much comes out as possible)
2.Go underneath car with 17mm socket and loosen the sump plug (make sure you have something to catch the oil!!!)
3.Remove oil filler cap and let car drain for 10mins.(can check how much is left using the dipstick)
4.Replace sump plug and tighten (but not too much)
5.Remove oil filter, (on RHS of block beneath exhaust)
6.Fit new oil filter (smear rubber seal on top with fresh oil to ensure good seal)
7.Remove oil filler cap (on top of engine) and fill SLOWLY with about 4.5l of oil (use dipstick to check level regularly)
8.Replace oil filler cap and start engine, allow to idle for 10 mins.
9. Check oil level again after leaving to stand for 10 minutes, check for leaks at the sump plug and filter, correct as required.

Spark plugs...

IMPORTANT!!!!! DISCONNECT BATTERY BEFORE WORKING ON ELECTRONICS!!!!

1.Remove the Spark plug leads ONE AT A TIME and (using masking tape + pen) number them 1-6.
2. Remove the Distributor cap and check the condition of the Rotor arm and Cap (replace as required).
3. Inspect the leads for any sign of breakages/cracking.
4. remove the spark plugs ONE AT A TIME using the 19mm spark plug puller (may need an extension for plug 6 (nearest the windscreen)
Inspect the plug for signs of the car running rich (black soot), flooding (plug is immaculate as petrol washes it).Car running lean (Light brown/sand colour)
5. Put in new spark plugs (put them in by hand until tight then Ԛâ€ËanipÔš' them a bit tighter with the puller) and refit leads
6. start the car and go for a well earned cruise



with compliments of Mr 320Toring esq.

[GDBN]

Easy tiger ...first things first ...don't even have a head on the car....waiting for the machine shop to give me the all clear
Just want to know what can be done before head comes back ....if I get the all clear with new valves etc ......
I also need a good picture of the engine bay to know where the last elec connoctors go once that shower of shit at Schmiedmann give me back the rest of the engine .............

[GDBN]

And it is the first e30 6 pot - but the first time I have ever had a head bolt snap on me .... hoping the head can be revived and nothing else !!

[Sooty]

Hi Giles...Hope this helps.

1 - clean the oil /coolant from the engine block where the head mounting bolts screw down (undersatnd these need to be be clean as a nuns mind) ???

Use a piece of paper towel (kitchen roll) and screw one corner of it into a 'wick' shape (like a candle wick). Use this in the bolt holes to absorb the excess oil/water. The threads themselves don't have to be totally dry of oil because you need a thin smear to avoid thread damage, but you've got to be certain that there is'nt a pool of it at the bottom of the hole. This could cause the bolt to 'hydraulic' as you tighten it down and could crack the block.

2 - get the remnants of the head gasket off the block ???

Very carefully use a scraper to clean the block face. The scraper can be the proper tool bought from a tool shop or can be made up (I used to use a hacksaw blade that had been snapped in half). Try to keep the tool to as shallow an angle to the block face as possible to avoid scoring the surface. Once the majority of the old gasket is off, go over the surface with a 'Scotchbrite' pad (nylon scourers that you find in kitchens) dampened with a bit of old coolant then clean with paper towel. This cleans the block face up really well.

3 - remove the carbon deposits from the piston heads ???

Now you have to be really careful. Pour a little hydraulic fluid on to the carbon deposits and let it soak in overnight to soften the carbon.
Using a plastic scraper, (an old credit card or similar is good) gently clean the piston face the same way that you did the block face. Use the Scotchbrite & coolant as well. You would be wise to be gentle and take your time over the pistons, because they are alloy as opposed to steel and easily damaged.

4 - clean the sides of the bores where the pistons travel ???

Using a small scraper, carefully remove the majority of the ring of carbon from around the top of the piston bore. It would help if you placed some paper towel inside the bore to try and prevent the carbon from falling into the gap around the top of the piston and the cylinder wall (assuming that the pistons are in the bores).
Once you've removed most of it, get the Scotchbrite & coolant out again.

Johnono has put up the rest of the info so have fun.

[johnono]

@ schmiedmann.

not too sure really on the internal cleaning bit phone schmieds and ask them (if u dare ) what happend to it anyway? gasket or other

and when are we all gonna hook up and do a Danish Zone session!

[Brianmoooore]

Just read your post in the E30 chat section, and found this thread.
The others have answered your first four questions - nothing I can add.
For the fifth question, just use cheap oil for the first fill after you rebuild, and change the oil and filter for the good stuff after a half hour's running or so.
For oil in the cooling system, I've heard truckwash is the stuff to use, but never tried it.

[GDBN]

Sounds good , Johnono but I wouldn't ring Schmiedmann to ask them the time (the lying sacks of shite) .... they have well and truly screwed my pride and joy and I wouldn't piss on em if they were on fire

thanks sooty ......

[johnono]

sorry to hear it dude.. sounds dire

when it comes home we can do a driveby!

[GDBN]

Can you get a can of compressed air to blow the crap out of the cylinders ??

Just thinking it might be easier before the head goes back ......

[Brianmoooore]

I use an air line to blow everything out, including the oil in the head bolt threads - oil flies everywhere.
You can buy cans of compressed air for cleaning out electronic stuff like computers.

[Andy335Touring]

Can you get a can of compressed air to blow the crap out of the cylinders ??

I got some from a plumbers merchant