m42-----S38-----2JZ big single
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E30BeemerLad
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hey that's rapid, was that with another gear to go too?
Karan, what rad you using?
I just got a custom one made up, but it might not fit the big 6 swap. Its a tripple core with the same width as the e28 rad, but cools better. I just blatted the car up and down the roads and when it would get hot and the fan kick in, this is below half. (Fan kicks in just after halfway). Saves on fuses too!
I just got a custom one made up, but it might not fit the big 6 swap. Its a tripple core with the same width as the e28 rad, but cools better. I just blatted the car up and down the roads and when it would get hot and the fan kick in, this is below half. (Fan kicks in just after halfway). Saves on fuses too!
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Karan
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im using a rad which radtec made to my own specs,.,,, its very thick at almost 10cm but not huge in terms of surface area as it sits in the front panel
i will be heavily modding the front of the car and going to a much larger rad soon.... as i dont think this is enough... even though it has yet o get really hot yet
i will be heavily modding the front of the car and going to a much larger rad soon.... as i dont think this is enough... even though it has yet o get really hot yet
just read this again..oze30 wrote:Karan, what rad you using?
I just got a custom one made up, but it might not fit the big 6 swap. Its a tripple core with the same width as the e28 rad, but cools better. I just blatted the car up and down the roads and when it would get hot and the fan kick in, this is below half. (Fan kicks in just after halfway). Saves on fuses too!
Before, it woul dover heat and have the fankick in after about 30 mins of driving. This kept blowing fuses. Now, It stays cool as anything. Though I havent tried the roadworks on the M1 yet!
Karan,
Have you any pics of the rad?
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Karan
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http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/3395/dsc00027oi6.jpg
you can see it on this old pic....
it had a push thru fan then that wasnt enough... it now has been moved an inch further into the front panel and i have fitted a 4in deep suck thru fan on the engine side of it, the temp does start wandering up but ive sat in traffic for an hour with ambient temps above 25degC....any more and i reckon it would overheat
my temp gauge however ios a stock e30 one using an e30 320i brown temp sender, the calibration would i think be a bit lower than an ///m engine.
i have a vdo temp gauge to go on so i will try this and see what the true values are.
the rad cost a lot butim regretting not going larger on it just for peace of mind
fan is controlled with a revotec controller in the top hose which ive set to come in at 1/2 way
you can see it on this old pic....
it had a push thru fan then that wasnt enough... it now has been moved an inch further into the front panel and i have fitted a 4in deep suck thru fan on the engine side of it, the temp does start wandering up but ive sat in traffic for an hour with ambient temps above 25degC....any more and i reckon it would overheat
my temp gauge however ios a stock e30 one using an e30 320i brown temp sender, the calibration would i think be a bit lower than an ///m engine.
i have a vdo temp gauge to go on so i will try this and see what the true values are.
the rad cost a lot butim regretting not going larger on it just for peace of mind
fan is controlled with a revotec controller in the top hose which ive set to come in at 1/2 way
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Karan
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UPDATE
major bodging going on now as i wanted a bigger rad
so after looking at the huge rad on my silvia i realise it would JUST squeeze in between the chassis rails just behind the front panel!
so i bought a huge rad and chopped up the front of the car and have decided on position. I have a MIG welder coming tomorrow so im gonna fabricated something nice up, heres what i have so far, the top tube will be removeable and have the top rad mounting tabs on it. It will also allow much easier engine removal which is a major prob with the s38 engine/box. This rad is same thickness as my custom one, but twice he surface area and cost only £170 compared to the £500 that the radtec one cost.
heres some pics:



more pics tomorrow when ive hopefully learned how to MIG weld
major bodging going on now as i wanted a bigger rad
so after looking at the huge rad on my silvia i realise it would JUST squeeze in between the chassis rails just behind the front panel!
so i bought a huge rad and chopped up the front of the car and have decided on position. I have a MIG welder coming tomorrow so im gonna fabricated something nice up, heres what i have so far, the top tube will be removeable and have the top rad mounting tabs on it. It will also allow much easier engine removal which is a major prob with the s38 engine/box. This rad is same thickness as my custom one, but twice he surface area and cost only £170 compared to the £500 that the radtec one cost.
heres some pics:



more pics tomorrow when ive hopefully learned how to MIG weld
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Karan
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have also bought a 25mm master cylinder so i finally have a brake pedal of some description. In addition to the braking a hydro wand will be going in with a heavily upgraded lsd
Bonnet will be completely removeable using stock rear locating rollers with aerocatch flush bonnet pins up front.
the car will then be going to the bodyshop at some point in the near future to sort one arch and respray to its former brilliant red stock iS look glory!
Bonnet will be completely removeable using stock rear locating rollers with aerocatch flush bonnet pins up front.
the car will then be going to the bodyshop at some point in the near future to sort one arch and respray to its former brilliant red stock iS look glory!
Last edited by Karan on Thu Jun 26, 2008 10:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Andy335Touring
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That looks a chunky rad
, MIG welding is easy, you'll pick it up fairly quickley
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Andy335Touring
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A lot of car accesory(sp?) shops do the little disposable CO2 bottles, get a couple of spare nozzle tips if you don't get any with the welder, you will need to know what diameter wire it's using to get the right tips. Either 0.6mm or 0.8mm normally i think ?
Also ask your mate with the welder what kind of gas bottles he normally uses because you might need a different regulator.
Also ask your mate with the welder what kind of gas bottles he normally uses because you might need a different regulator.
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Karan
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i bought a reel of .6 and .8 , and the guy is throwing in some .6 and .8 nozzles too? its a sealey supermig 185, and i believe that the regulator is the same on large and medium size bottles?? and only varies on the small ones? so i will try and source a medium bottle of mixed tmro
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Silverfang
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You can get the bigger bottles from BOC suppliers, only problem, you need an acount with them!
but it's well worth it since you only pay for the gas afterwards and trade the bottles when you've used them up.
Mate of mine has done it for years, works well and means you never run out of gas with those poxy little cans
Oh and i think i know where you got the idea from for the Silvia Rad... a one Sideways Taff maybe?

Mate of mine has done it for years, works well and means you never run out of gas with those poxy little cans
Oh and i think i know where you got the idea from for the Silvia Rad... a one Sideways Taff maybe?
BMW and Opel, both RWD, both german, both good fun
http://www.clockservicing.co.uk/ For any clock repairs try here.
http://www.clockservicing.co.uk/ For any clock repairs try here.
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Silverfang
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Karan wrote:yep he recommended it to me a while back,,, very tight fit.
hes cut more out than i am though
What rad did you get , I'm needing to look into a decent Ally rad for my Manta Project and since you found that beast for £170, I'd really like to know since it'd save me a packet and I've got the tools and means already to modify
BMW and Opel, both RWD, both german, both good fun
http://www.clockservicing.co.uk/ For any clock repairs try here.
http://www.clockservicing.co.uk/ For any clock repairs try here.
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Karan
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its apex's own brand race rad for an s14 fitment. have a looksie on their site
www.apexperformance.co.uk
www.apexperformance.co.uk
@Karan: This is realy a great project, I am doing something similar myself and have one question for you. Which servo pump did use for the e36 steering rack? Stock M5 pump has two high pressure outputs, so I don't know if it's usable, would it work if you block one output? How did you sort this out?
Thanks for the help!
Thanks for the help!
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Karan
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i solved this accidentally by using an e23 7 series pump as at the time i was trying to use the hydraulic brake servo from the e23 also.
i ditched this and just went for normal vacuum servo but retained the e23 PAS pump. I think you should be fine by blocking of the small output with a bolt and copper washer that usually goes to the rear shock absorbers.
get some pics of yours up!
big sixes rule!
i ditched this and just went for normal vacuum servo but retained the e23 PAS pump. I think you should be fine by blocking of the small output with a bolt and copper washer that usually goes to the rear shock absorbers.
get some pics of yours up!
big sixes rule!
Sadly I dont have any pics of the engine in the car, as my camera was broken then. At the moment the engine is taken apart for partial rebuild, and there's also not much attached to the car, so I cant take some great pictures, but there are some photos of the modified oil pan, firewall and roll cage following.
My car will be strictly for track use (mostly drift). I moved the engine much further (5,5 inches compared to m20) to the back to have better weight balance, and because of that I had some serious problems:
-firewall (cut out old one and made new one so the engine can be pushed back)
-oil pan (modified to allow new engine position)
-brake pedal assebly (original brake booster is used, but relocated 2inches, because of the position, airbox is very near the booster)
-and many more little things
However this will allow me to use 324td radiator and E60 vent between radiator and engine.
Some other features:
-near replica of the DTM roll cage
-DIY coilover suspension using Bilsteins and modified to allow the car to be very low
-hydraulic hand brake
Some pictures:
Oil pan from the back
Oil pan from the front
Firewall
Oil cooler location
Roll cage
Some more questions
How much does your car weight and what do you think would be the lowest you can go without some serious modifications?
How does it handle compared to other non nose heavy cars?
I guess its a great car for drifting, can't wait for mine to be finished, although it may take some more months due to lack of time.
My car will be strictly for track use (mostly drift). I moved the engine much further (5,5 inches compared to m20) to the back to have better weight balance, and because of that I had some serious problems:
-firewall (cut out old one and made new one so the engine can be pushed back)
-oil pan (modified to allow new engine position)
-brake pedal assebly (original brake booster is used, but relocated 2inches, because of the position, airbox is very near the booster)
-and many more little things
However this will allow me to use 324td radiator and E60 vent between radiator and engine.
Some other features:
-near replica of the DTM roll cage
-DIY coilover suspension using Bilsteins and modified to allow the car to be very low
-hydraulic hand brake
Some pictures:
Oil pan from the back
Oil pan from the front
Firewall
Oil cooler location
Roll cage
Some more questions
How much does your car weight and what do you think would be the lowest you can go without some serious modifications?
How does it handle compared to other non nose heavy cars?
I guess its a great car for drifting, can't wait for mine to be finished, although it may take some more months due to lack of time.
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Karan
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not sure about the weight to be honest, id guess 1200-1300kg
i have e30 m3 running gear with original hartge h36 coils/shocks with eiback arbs and z3 rack.
as a road car this is fine, however as i have lowered te subframe 20mm the roll centre still needs to be corected by spacing the front struts at the bottom. I will be eventually getting coilovers on there but its not a priority at the moment. handling in my view is not much different from an m20 car but its difficult to compare as suspension setups vary heavily between cars and it is difficult to compare in this way. I have a heavily tuned s14 200sx track/competition car so i probably will keeop this is a fast comfortable road car and not go too extreme.
as for drifting.... its AWESOME much more fun to drift than my 200sx but it does need the lsd upgrading or a welded diff, and also a hydraulic ebrake
Karan
i have e30 m3 running gear with original hartge h36 coils/shocks with eiback arbs and z3 rack.
as a road car this is fine, however as i have lowered te subframe 20mm the roll centre still needs to be corected by spacing the front struts at the bottom. I will be eventually getting coilovers on there but its not a priority at the moment. handling in my view is not much different from an m20 car but its difficult to compare as suspension setups vary heavily between cars and it is difficult to compare in this way. I have a heavily tuned s14 200sx track/competition car so i probably will keeop this is a fast comfortable road car and not go too extreme.
as for drifting.... its AWESOME much more fun to drift than my 200sx but it does need the lsd upgrading or a welded diff, and also a hydraulic ebrake
Karan
I am glad to hear it handles well, even with lowered subframe, m3/hartge running gear probably helps too.
If the car is for road use, then weight is not that big issue and there's enough power.
I hope you sort out the cooling issues.
Thanks for all the info.
If the car is for road use, then weight is not that big issue and there's enough power.
I hope you sort out the cooling issues.
Thanks for all the info.
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Karan
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all done, just needs stripping down and zinc primering/painting
have run it for the lst few days in intense heat with intense abuse lol, and she sits at 1/4 whilst moving then in traffic goes up to just below half where i have set the fan to kick in. its also not relying on the electric fan, whereas before at most speeds below motorway the fan was running!
oil also stays lower temp now...still gotta get round to fitting the oil cooler though
pics to follow later---car looks proper mad max stylee
also running a GULF spec water pump as the old one was a state
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jaistanley
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Excellent news. Good to see some more bodgery on the zone.. 

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Karan
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MOT due next month so need to sort washer jets, horn, squeaze some full beams on and get the grill on.
Needs stripping down and painting before that as its all exposed at the moment.
will be at the ace on monday for sure
Needs stripping down and painting before that as its all exposed at the moment.
will be at the ace on monday for sure
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Karan
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welded diff and poly diff mount now on
actually drives quite nicely with the welded diff and drifting is now awesome in it!
next mods:
hydro wand
poly the subframe bushes
bride bucket seat
then drifting it at ultimate bmw show
actually drives quite nicely with the welded diff and drifting is now awesome in it!
next mods:
hydro wand
poly the subframe bushes
bride bucket seat
then drifting it at ultimate bmw show









