M50 running problems..
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Jhonno
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Was running fine, sat for 15mins after being run, then tried to start it and its stopped sparking on at least 1 cyl, and has no power, whilst backfiring..
Any ideas on the lack of spark?
Also, Temp gauge doesnt work.. Installed M20 sender, swapped the wire over but no joy
Any ideas on the lack of spark?
Also, Temp gauge doesnt work.. Installed M20 sender, swapped the wire over but no joy
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eko
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Rocker cover leaking into the plugs?Jhonno wrote:Was running fine, sat for 15mins after being run, then tried to start it and its stopped sparking on at least 1 cyl, and has no power, whilst backfiring..
Any ideas on the lack of spark?
Also, Temp gauge doesnt work.. Installed M20 sender, swapped the wire over but no joy
Swapped which wire for sensor?Should just fit the M20 sensor and plug back in.

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Jhonno
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Ah.. Have to swap it on the S50.. So i'll have to swap it back, explains that one then..
Have to whip the coil packs out then, have a looksee
Have to whip the coil packs out then, have a looksee
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eko
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Yeah the sensor is just a straight swap on the M50Jhonno wrote:Ah.. Have to swap it on the S50.. So i'll have to swap it back, explains that one then..
Have to whip the coil packs out then, have a looksee

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Jhonno
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Running problem is wierd, was going great guns till then.. Exhaust is a little council and anti social though

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eko
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Worth checking that rocker cover mate.Jhonno wrote:Running problem is wierd, was going great guns till then.. Exhaust is a little council and anti social though
Seen loads leak around the plug holes.
Could even be knackered Blue sensor?

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Jhonno
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Maybe.. Smelt of fuel.. And just began running rougher and rougher once started, ended up having no power at all
Will pull the coil packs when Im back in Col after the w/end
Will pull the coil packs when Im back in Col after the w/end
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eko
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Im sure Dan will see this anyway,he will have a better idea 

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glenn
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lambda's ?
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DanThe
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Blue sensor is a good call, saw one the other day and it was doing as you explain, the warmer the engine got the worse it ran.
Do you have a fault light wired in? Worth doing if not as you will be able to see if it is running in limp mode
Do you have a fault light wired in? Worth doing if not as you will be able to see if it is running in limp mode
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Jhonno
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No lambda on it atm..
Plugs 4-6 were swimming in water, 3 was damp, plug 1 was loose..
Worrying thing is, the lump appears to have been freshly serviced using BMW parts! Plugs look mint.. Oil was golden, and filter was clean when we had it apart
Plugs 4-6 were swimming in water, 3 was damp, plug 1 was loose..
Worrying thing is, the lump appears to have been freshly serviced using BMW parts! Plugs look mint.. Oil was golden, and filter was clean when we had it apart
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Jhonno
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Oh.. How would you go about wiring up a fault light? Dont think I have one wired up atm..
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jaistanley
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Swimming with water???

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Jhonno
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Well the plug holes were..
Can anyone tell me the wire colours that go to the temp sender for the dash? I'm not sure if its working yet.. I know the stat is working ok, the rad has got warm and so has the bottom hose, but I'm still not getting anything from the dash.. Could it be the larger rad used? Cant take it for a run yet as its not legal, and its pretty noisy to leave idling
Can anyone tell me the wire colours that go to the temp sender for the dash? I'm not sure if its working yet.. I know the stat is working ok, the rad has got warm and so has the bottom hose, but I'm still not getting anything from the dash.. Could it be the larger rad used? Cant take it for a run yet as its not legal, and its pretty noisy to leave idling
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jaistanley
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If the radiator gets hot then the stat is working. The only way to test if it's working on temp is to have it in water with a thermometer. Just get that dash guage working so you feel better about it.
The bigger radiator wont cause any problems if the stat is working and it seems it is. It needs a proper run once you've got the hot running problem fixed and the MOT. That'll tell you how it is...
The bigger radiator wont cause any problems if the stat is working and it seems it is. It needs a proper run once you've got the hot running problem fixed and the MOT. That'll tell you how it is...

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Jhonno
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I was wonderin if the the bigger rad was meaning it was taking alot longer to get up to temp is all.. Im happy its not overheating now, but I'm confused by the lack of temp gauge as its connected up correctly as far as I know.. Guess i'll find out when it goes for its MOT
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old_skool
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Dan have you earthed the wire out to check the gauge and the circuit?
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Jhonno
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?? 
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DanThe
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You did fit an E30 temp sender right?
The temp sender to gauge wire is Brown/Purple and should be in pin No 4 of the E30 C101 plug
If you dont have a lambda fitted it will run on the default protection map (limp mode)
To rig up a fault light take the Grey wire from the ecu or X20 pin No 8 to a 'push fit' bulb fitted into the green section of the clocks, the other side of the bulb needs to be an ignition switched live (like the abs bulb) when a fault code is present the ecu sends an earth signal down the grey wire
The temp sender to gauge wire is Brown/Purple and should be in pin No 4 of the E30 C101 plug
If you dont have a lambda fitted it will run on the default protection map (limp mode)
To rig up a fault light take the Grey wire from the ecu or X20 pin No 8 to a 'push fit' bulb fitted into the green section of the clocks, the other side of the bulb needs to be an ignition switched live (like the abs bulb) when a fault code is present the ecu sends an earth signal down the grey wire
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Jhonno
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Yup, e30 temp sender fitted..
Will check the wire colours..
Didnt realise that about the lambda, remember Wil running without one for quite a while, will get one from the scrappy, a new one would be more that 1/2 the cost of the engine!! (Tight git e30 owner mode..)
Will check the wire colours..
Didnt realise that about the lambda, remember Wil running without one for quite a while, will get one from the scrappy, a new one would be more that 1/2 the cost of the engine!! (Tight git e30 owner mode..)
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old_skool
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You could just use a cheapo GSF universal lamba Dan. They are the right four wire type I'm sure of it.
If you earth the temp wire where it connects to the thermistor (as Danthe says) Brown/Purple against the block then the gauge should shoot up to the top.
Glad you sussed the running problems
If you earth the temp wire where it connects to the thermistor (as Danthe says) Brown/Purple against the block then the gauge should shoot up to the top.
Glad you sussed the running problems
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Jhonno
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Wire colour solved the problem.. Where I had swapped them before, I connected the wrong one back up. So should be all good now..
So its just the lambda.. Any opinions on passing the emissions without it? Its going for its MOT 2mo..
So its just the lambda.. Any opinions on passing the emissions without it? Its going for its MOT 2mo..
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Jhonno
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interesting..old_skool wrote:You could just use a cheapo GSF universal lamba Dan. They are the right four wire type I'm sure of it
Does it just have to be a 4 wire then? I have the S50 ones..
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DanThe
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Get an S50 one in then 
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Jhonno
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Anyone have any ideas what wires do what? Guessing there wont be a colour match..
Got till 2pm 2mo..
Got till 2pm 2mo..
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Jon_Bmw
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My brother has just got a 'universal' lamba sensor off ebay for about £23 iirc. Subaru wanted £120 for one. So I reckon you could do that, it would certainly save grovelling in a scrap yard for a nackered one?
On passing the emissions, it will be based on the 'easy' test due to the age of the car. So CO has to be <3.5.
Let him put it on the machine, if it fails and you know the dude. Just cause a vaccum leak after the MAF and it should go through
Proper pikey.
On passing the emissions, it will be based on the 'easy' test due to the age of the car. So CO has to be <3.5.
Let him put it on the machine, if it fails and you know the dude. Just cause a vaccum leak after the MAF and it should go through
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DanThe
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Pikey indeed, usually the wires are 1 Black, 1 Grey and 2 Whites, the Whites are for the heater and can be wired either way around
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Jhonno
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Cool..
What about the black and grey? Will see what I can do tomorrow morning..
What about the black and grey? Will see what I can do tomorrow morning..
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old_skool
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On the S50 the Lambdas are on their own seperate loom dropping down from the engine loom. If they are four wire lambdas, I assume they are, then they are presumably the same titania type ones that are in the S50. Two black wires are the heater, the grey and white are the signal wires iirc.
They are cheap from GSF, I didn't bat an eyelid at them when I bought some so they can't be too bad.
Have you not got the lamba wiring on the engine loom then Dan?
They are cheap from GSF, I didn't bat an eyelid at them when I bought some so they can't be too bad.
Have you not got the lamba wiring on the engine loom then Dan?
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Jhonno
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Yeah lambda wiring is on the loom (even in the correct place clipped onto the box..) but wrong connector for the S50 ones I have..
Does it matter which way the signal wires go?
Got a Euro Car Parts near me..
Does it matter which way the signal wires go?
Got a Euro Car Parts near me..
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Jhonno
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Oh and the speedo isnt working.. Is that connected to the swap or just the diff sender/wire/plug?
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Jhonno
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Just to add to the talking to myself thing.. I have a twin system all through, the lambda is a single lambda that is situated at or near a single pipe point on the e36/e34.. Um.. So having it measure 1/2 the exhaust gas isnt gonna work is it?
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old_skool
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It'll be fine on a single pipe Dan.
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Jhonno
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Its ok guys.. Ive come to my senses and am gonna stop being a typical e30 owner and buy a new one
Only £50 out the door, and in todays fuel prices, i'll get that back soon enough by fitting one!!
Only £50 out the door, and in todays fuel prices, i'll get that back soon enough by fitting one!!
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Jhonno
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Its MOT'd!!
Handling is awesome tbh.. Not had it understeer, or oversteer, just grips and goes
Got an inlet air leak somewhere tho...
Handling is awesome tbh.. Not had it understeer, or oversteer, just grips and goes
Got an inlet air leak somewhere tho...

