Is there a guide for the M62 4.4 v8 E30 conversion
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Omi
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E34 Zone? 
Seriously, E34 user group will have a lot of knowledge on what fits what... I know a few cars have been converted by folks on here. Recall manifolds were a total ball-ache, but totally worth it for the noise alone!
Seriously, E34 user group will have a lot of knowledge on what fits what... I know a few cars have been converted by folks on here. Recall manifolds were a total ball-ache, but totally worth it for the noise alone!
...or is it?
the 4.4 manifolds will make life a lot easier than the m60 (earlier version) 4.0 ones.
Engine and gearbox mounts have to be made, or bought if you can find some that you like.
All the V8 BMW boxes fit, but the five speed units have a 1:1 5th, making for no cruising speed. The 6 speed units have a 0.81 sixth.
Custom propshaft required if 6 speed.
Electrics could get tricky with the later CAN versions of the 4.4, although I think that you still had the possibility to get "normal" signals from the ECU if desired (at least on e39). Brake master has to be remote actuated, or for you rhd guys could probably be mounted inboard in the glovebox. To give you an idea of the problem, I've got two inches clearence between my bulkhead and the left head...
HTH...
Engine and gearbox mounts have to be made, or bought if you can find some that you like.
All the V8 BMW boxes fit, but the five speed units have a 1:1 5th, making for no cruising speed. The 6 speed units have a 0.81 sixth.
Custom propshaft required if 6 speed.
Electrics could get tricky with the later CAN versions of the 4.4, although I think that you still had the possibility to get "normal" signals from the ECU if desired (at least on e39). Brake master has to be remote actuated, or for you rhd guys could probably be mounted inboard in the glovebox. To give you an idea of the problem, I've got two inches clearence between my bulkhead and the left head...
HTH...
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daimlerman
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Just thinking out loud here,would engine wiring issues be best solved with aftermarket type ECU's? Something like mega squirt?
Youth is wasted on the young.
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Morat
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The issue in the past with that approach has been VANOS control, but I think that there has been progress in that direction with the MS project. You'd need to consult an expert of course 
E30 Touring 0.35 cD - more slippery than prison soap 

Praise the Lard... and pass the dripping!

Praise the Lard... and pass the dripping!
I think MS can only control single vanos aren't the M60/2's double vanos?
Stick this in yahoo http://www.e30.de/v8/v8.htm and it will translate it for you.
I'd prefer to do the V12 swap......... one day
Stick this in yahoo http://www.e30.de/v8/v8.htm and it will translate it for you.
I'd prefer to do the V12 swap......... one day
Very good info, thanks.suzie650 wrote:the 4.4 manifolds will make life a lot easier than the m60 (earlier version) 4.0 ones.
Engine and gearbox mounts have to be made, or bought if you can find some that you like.
All the V8 BMW boxes fit, but the five speed units have a 1:1 5th, making for no cruising speed. The 6 speed units have a 0.81 sixth.
Custom propshaft required if 6 speed.
Electrics could get tricky with the later CAN versions of the 4.4, although I think that you still had the possibility to get "normal" signals from the ECU if desired (at least on e39). Brake master has to be remote actuated, or for you rhd guys could probably be mounted inboard in the glovebox. To give you an idea of the problem, I've got two inches clearence between my bulkhead and the left head...
HTH...
So my plan is to use an early 4.4 from a 96-97 7 or 5 series as I know these don't have an electronic throttle or DSC making it simpler to use the original engine management. Coupled onto a 5 speed (not too bothered about top end speed) gearbox from say a 1993 530 v8 or similar.
I'm wondering if a standard 325i diff and drive shafts would be strong enough and if any enlarging of the transmission tunnel would be required.
no enlarging required, standard diff and driveshaft are supposed to be up to the job.
However, I would recommend a 3.25 BMW E30 M3 diff to get your speed vs rev to a half acceptable standard. (The box on the E30 I6 has an overdriven 0.81:1 5th) and 0.81*3.91 (ratio of a sport/touring diff) = 3.16...
Even better would probably be the 2.93 of an early 325e, but to find these as LSD is very rare.
(to give you an idea, standard wheels and 3.91 diff with the 1:1 5th equals to about 70 mph at 4000rpm. Not ideal with a V8 unless you build a track car.)
However, I would recommend a 3.25 BMW E30 M3 diff to get your speed vs rev to a half acceptable standard. (The box on the E30 I6 has an overdriven 0.81:1 5th) and 0.81*3.91 (ratio of a sport/touring diff) = 3.16...
Even better would probably be the 2.93 of an early 325e, but to find these as LSD is very rare.
(to give you an idea, standard wheels and 3.91 diff with the 1:1 5th equals to about 70 mph at 4000rpm. Not ideal with a V8 unless you build a track car.)
- siddiqi1
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different ratio difff i think!
or a 6 speed manual!
cant wait to see this if you do it! you know if you have any mind or stamina left; VF engineering do a chrger kit; takes from 280bhp to 400 nearabouts; all bolt on toooo
or a 6 speed manual!
cant wait to see this if you do it! you know if you have any mind or stamina left; VF engineering do a chrger kit; takes from 280bhp to 400 nearabouts; all bolt on toooo
6 speed box and 2.79 (324td) or 2.93 (eta) LSD should do.abi wrote:I see what you mean 4k at 70 mph is no good. Ideally I'd want about 2.5k rpm at 70 mph, any ideal how this might be achieved?
6-speed e39 540 does ~2500rpm @ 140km/h, which is good i think
www.300mm.de and www.e30.de are good sites with lots of info, worth checking
E30 Cabrio M-Tech, powered by V8
E34 M5 3.8 x 2
Alpina D10 Touring #33/93
E46 318i Touring
Toyota Hiace 4wd
E34 M5 3.8 x 2
Alpina D10 Touring #33/93
E46 318i Touring
Toyota Hiace 4wd
2.93 AND six speed box gives 73.45mph on standard 15" BBS at 2500rpm
3.25 and six speed gives ~70mph @ 2650rpm
or:
2.79 and six speed box 77.14mph @ 2500rpm
2.79 and 5 speed box 64.02mph @ 2500rpm (~70mph @ 2750)
2.93 and 2.79 even more are really difficult to come by at a reasonable price.
3.25 and six speed gives ~70mph @ 2650rpm
or:
2.79 and six speed box 77.14mph @ 2500rpm
2.79 and 5 speed box 64.02mph @ 2500rpm (~70mph @ 2750)
2.93 and 2.79 even more are really difficult to come by at a reasonable price.
Thanks for all your input so far, very helpfull.
So a standard diff would be ok if I could find the six speed box, failing that the diff from a 324td (I didn't know a diesel E30 even existed) would do the job. I don't expect the diesel diff would ever have LSD though? And that would mean wheel spin city...
As for the blower, well that would be mental, but one thing at a time!
I wonder how many old BMW's will have to be destroyed to make this car!?
Anybody know if the steering needs to be altered? - have heard of this but that was a LHD drive motor. Oh and does/can a e36 diff fit on an E30?
So a standard diff would be ok if I could find the six speed box, failing that the diff from a 324td (I didn't know a diesel E30 even existed) would do the job. I don't expect the diesel diff would ever have LSD though? And that would mean wheel spin city...
As for the blower, well that would be mental, but one thing at a time!
I wonder how many old BMW's will have to be destroyed to make this car!?
Anybody know if the steering needs to be altered? - have heard of this but that was a LHD drive motor. Oh and does/can a e36 diff fit on an E30?
Mmmmm, seems I have one of them on my touringsuzie650 wrote: Even better would probably be the 2.93 of an early 325e, but to find these as LSD is very rare.
Gaffa tape is like "the force" - it has a light side, a dark side, and it holds the universe together.
There's nothing that shouts "Poor Workmanship" more than wrinkles in the Gaffer tap
There's nothing that shouts "Poor Workmanship" more than wrinkles in the Gaffer tap
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jaistanley
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If you can get hold of an open diff of the correct ratio it's entirely possible to have an LSD pack swapped in remember...
I think the major issues of this conversion aren;t goint to be the diff choice though!
The steering coupling can be re-made into one without a join in it at al, just two E34 U/J's and a section of two E34 splined steering columns shrouded and welded together. That should maximise the clearance.. I started a thread in the tech section but hven't got round to getting any further with it..
I think the major issues of this conversion aren;t goint to be the diff choice though!
The steering coupling can be re-made into one without a join in it at al, just two E34 U/J's and a section of two E34 splined steering columns shrouded and welded together. That should maximise the clearance.. I started a thread in the tech section but hven't got round to getting any further with it..

Yes there are 2.79 LSD:s, just missed one auction at www.ebay.deabi wrote:So a standard diff would be ok if I could find the six speed box, failing that the diff from a 324td (I didn't know a diesel E30 even existed) would do the job. I don't expect the diesel diff would ever have LSD though? And that would mean wheel spin city...
You can get then from BMW dealer new. Price around 1500€ here in Finland, no idea what the price might be there in UK..
E36 compact diff (ratios around 4) is quite the same as E30 typ188, normal E36 / M3 diff is a "no no".Anybody know if the steering needs to be altered? - have heard of this but that was a LHD drive motor. Oh and does/can a e36 diff fit on an E30?
E30 big diff = E28 small diff = E34 small diff (all typ 188) (E36 compact diff is typ 168 = e30 small diff).
There are differences in output and driveshaft joints, also the back plate is different but they all are easily changed.
I've E34 525tds 2.64 LSD coming from germany this week, so i'll see next weekend how easy swap it is
E30 Cabrio M-Tech, powered by V8
E34 M5 3.8 x 2
Alpina D10 Touring #33/93
E46 318i Touring
Toyota Hiace 4wd
E34 M5 3.8 x 2
Alpina D10 Touring #33/93
E46 318i Touring
Toyota Hiace 4wd
The problem would be to find a suitable bottom UJ to work with e36/46 racks. They are not the same as e30, and I would therefore not think they'd fit.jaistanley wrote:If you can get hold of an open diff of the correct ratio it's entirely possible to have an LSD pack swapped in remember...
I think the major issues of this conversion aren;t goint to be the diff choice though!![]()
The steering coupling can be re-made into one without a join in it at al, just two E34 U/J's and a section of two E34 splined steering columns shrouded and welded together. That should maximise the clearance.. I started a thread in the tech section but hven't got round to getting any further with it..
You can still make a column without the bush from the orignal column (if you're keeping the e30 rack, see the group buy for solid guibos or make one yourself) or from Ian's guide if you're using a later rack.
Well it all seems quite possible, just lots of jigging around and probably beating things with a hammer!
Does the 325 have bigger brakes than a 320? And are the sport brakes better again? Looking for a shell now and not sure if I should rule out 320's.
Does the 325 have bigger brakes than a 320? And are the sport brakes better again? Looking for a shell now and not sure if I should rule out 320's.
The touring has got the same chassis as the 325 (suspension, brakes, but bigger ARB)
No difference between a "sport" and a standard 325 as far as I'm aware. Keep in mind that You'll probably want to change everything anyway.
No beating needed! A cutout in the battery tray if you put the engine far back enough, and that's all.
Unless you want to keep A/C, and then you either find a tiny compressor (I've failed so far) or you chop your chassis leg.
No difference between a "sport" and a standard 325 as far as I'm aware. Keep in mind that You'll probably want to change everything anyway.
No beating needed! A cutout in the battery tray if you put the engine far back enough, and that's all.
Unless you want to keep A/C, and then you either find a tiny compressor (I've failed so far) or you chop your chassis leg.
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jaistanley
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I beg to differ (after inspection).suzie650 wrote:
The problem would be to find a suitable bottom UJ to work with e36/46 racks. They are not the same as e30, and I would therefore not think they'd fit.
The E30 steering column slines are more course but the steering rack splines appear the same.....
I can double check tomoz....

Issues on a RHD conversion:
Brakes-
I've mounted mine under the glovebox (twin MC setup, no servo) as there was absolutely no way of getting a servo to fit and even remotely working ( could have done if I had a weeks solid tinkering time) Result, less than perfect brakes (Same sized MC and e30 M3 brakes) I'd definately uprate the brakes. I'm having fun trying to stop the beast with fast road pads, slotted discs after a few blats through the round abouts in MK. Not confidence inspiring if you ask me.. just need to adjust the braking style.
Cooling-
Ive blown 2 e28 M535 rads. Just about to install a custom rad from a local guy, 130 quid. Uses a rover core I think. But it's a triple core with more surface area than the stock e28, plus better cooling.
Exhaust-
Going to get a custom manifold or try the e39 manifold as I'm down roughly 100lb/ft torque due to a huge cut out on the 2/4 collectors. Enjoy these!! They have an awsome sound!!
Fuel-
Have fun!! Unless you have shares in OPEC, then Id hugely suggest an LPG conversion. With a 3.91 you get roughly 180 from full to just before the reserve light comes on. I get a definate 170 to the 1/4 tank line. With a 3.15 (2.0 Z3 LSD) I get closer to 210-220 to the 1/4 tank mark. (Was actually more fuel efficient when hard accel to cruise speed then burble along.
Clutch-
use an e34 m/c if it's bigger than the e30. It's a heavy clutch, but you can get used to it over time
Tacho-
Im about to try a 4cyl coding plug to see if it reads better.
Fitment.
There's enough room between the left head and the left strut housing for about .5-1 inch. No, you can't mount an M/C/Servo here. You can mount it on the firewall, but I'd rather not cut and shut the strut bracing.
I have to cave in the left side chassis rail to fit the alternator in. Without it, it would rub/vibrate against the chassis rail.
If you don't lower the subframe, you won't be able to use the plastic covering over the top of the engine (Acoustic cover and sound mat -bmw parts) It will squash down and you'll break the clips that hold it together. You also won't be able to use the triangular e34 header tank (no room. ESPECIALLY if you want to run a strut brace. Forget using the triangle header tank!!)
You can use the late 325 header on the wing, but you might have some issues with it self bleeding. Alternative is to mount it up on the battery tray. This will mean the header tank is definately the highest point.
Airbox.
You can use the standard flat panel airbox with some modifications, but you're better off using a cone filter for more room/airflow.
Hope this helps. It's pretty much where I'm up to in regards to getting it pretty.
Having said all this, if my motor is a Nikasil one, I'm waiting for it to destruct and an M62 will go in!
Brakes-
I've mounted mine under the glovebox (twin MC setup, no servo) as there was absolutely no way of getting a servo to fit and even remotely working ( could have done if I had a weeks solid tinkering time) Result, less than perfect brakes (Same sized MC and e30 M3 brakes) I'd definately uprate the brakes. I'm having fun trying to stop the beast with fast road pads, slotted discs after a few blats through the round abouts in MK. Not confidence inspiring if you ask me.. just need to adjust the braking style.
Cooling-
Ive blown 2 e28 M535 rads. Just about to install a custom rad from a local guy, 130 quid. Uses a rover core I think. But it's a triple core with more surface area than the stock e28, plus better cooling.
Exhaust-
Going to get a custom manifold or try the e39 manifold as I'm down roughly 100lb/ft torque due to a huge cut out on the 2/4 collectors. Enjoy these!! They have an awsome sound!!
Fuel-
Have fun!! Unless you have shares in OPEC, then Id hugely suggest an LPG conversion. With a 3.91 you get roughly 180 from full to just before the reserve light comes on. I get a definate 170 to the 1/4 tank line. With a 3.15 (2.0 Z3 LSD) I get closer to 210-220 to the 1/4 tank mark. (Was actually more fuel efficient when hard accel to cruise speed then burble along.
Clutch-
use an e34 m/c if it's bigger than the e30. It's a heavy clutch, but you can get used to it over time
Tacho-
Im about to try a 4cyl coding plug to see if it reads better.
Fitment.
There's enough room between the left head and the left strut housing for about .5-1 inch. No, you can't mount an M/C/Servo here. You can mount it on the firewall, but I'd rather not cut and shut the strut bracing.
I have to cave in the left side chassis rail to fit the alternator in. Without it, it would rub/vibrate against the chassis rail.
If you don't lower the subframe, you won't be able to use the plastic covering over the top of the engine (Acoustic cover and sound mat -bmw parts) It will squash down and you'll break the clips that hold it together. You also won't be able to use the triangular e34 header tank (no room. ESPECIALLY if you want to run a strut brace. Forget using the triangle header tank!!)
You can use the late 325 header on the wing, but you might have some issues with it self bleeding. Alternative is to mount it up on the battery tray. This will mean the header tank is definately the highest point.
Airbox.
You can use the standard flat panel airbox with some modifications, but you're better off using a cone filter for more room/airflow.
Hope this helps. It's pretty much where I'm up to in regards to getting it pretty.
Having said all this, if my motor is a Nikasil one, I'm waiting for it to destruct and an M62 will go in!
M62TU, doe sit have a throttle cable or is it fly by wire. If fly by wire, it's possible, but a lot of grief. The first generation of M62 from memory are cable throttle. I have a loom here from an E38 M62b44, with inlet manifold. You could use this as long as you plug the LPG injector holes. Or just run 16 injectors! 
You can fit the Z3 rack with the V8 (I did this, but I didn't clearance the down pipe enough, so it locked the steering turning left when the engine moved across.suzie650 wrote:The problem would be to find a suitable bottom UJ to work with e36/46 racks. They are not the same as e30, and I would therefore not think they'd fit.jaistanley wrote:If you can get hold of an open diff of the correct ratio it's entirely possible to have an LSD pack swapped in remember...
I think the major issues of this conversion aren;t goint to be the diff choice though!![]()
The steering coupling can be re-made into one without a join in it at al, just two E34 U/J's and a section of two E34 splined steering columns shrouded and welded together. That should maximise the clearance.. I started a thread in the tech section but hven't got round to getting any further with it..
You can still make a column without the bush from the orignal column (if you're keeping the e30 rack, see the group buy for solid guibos or make one yourself) or from Ian's guide if you're using a later rack.
This is due to the sharper angle out of the rack than the E30. You could find a way of tilting the rack back, so that it clears. Or just get the rack installed first and then do the manifolds after.
Depending on how you do the manifolds, you could use the rubber guibo, I did, but they don't necessarily need it.
I'm not sure but i think people are using M60 wiring looms with M62. No idea which things you need to change (at least knocking sensors) but try checking www.e30tech.com and www.bimmerforums.com through, few project topics of BMW V8 conversions there alsoPiLLLe wrote:Does anyone have wiring plans for m62 conversioni think i have m62tu and i cant find anything which could help me.
E30 Cabrio M-Tech, powered by V8
E34 M5 3.8 x 2
Alpina D10 Touring #33/93
E46 318i Touring
Toyota Hiace 4wd
E34 M5 3.8 x 2
Alpina D10 Touring #33/93
E46 318i Touring
Toyota Hiace 4wd
Problem is that these things are hard to get around here, so i must use what i allready have. At first i planed to use whole e39 wiring, but for that to wotk i need abs which i dont have (abs needs whole lot of work to work properly as you might have seen in that s54 smg conversion done by that american guy)
But fortunetly my engine has throttle cable and it isn't flybywire so that's one problem less.
But fortunetly my engine has throttle cable and it isn't flybywire so that's one problem less.



