Running in new rings

[DanThe]

Fitted new rings to the M52B28 ive transferred to iron block

Whats the recommended milage/revs limit and how long does it take to bed them in?

Cheers

[d6dph]

I think rings normally bed in within the first twenty minutes, I seem to remember Alex (turbo brown) saying that if you don't bed them in straight away they will never seal properly.

[DanThe]

Well I had to run this for 20 odd minutes before the valve lifters freed off

[Chase007]

I think there is a few men on here that will run your ring in for u mate!

[old_skool]

I think there is a few men on here that will run your ring in for u mate!

If you have nothing of any value to add then please leave the thread alone. Addind a sarcastic comment or the typical to every thread is wearing a little thin.

Consider it a friendly pointer.

[Turbo-Brown]

Only use shit brand mineral oil for this (no joke, you don't want good oil for this procedure)

Warm it up and check for leaks, then go straight to a quiet stretch of road (with a suitable speed limit!) / dual carriage way, get to about 35ish mph in 3rd and floor it up to about 60mph.

Then let off the throttle completely and let engine braking take you back to 35/40ish.

Repeat say 10 or 15 times and that's it.

Go home, drain the oil and change the filter.

Job done.

Personally like to take the plugs out and turn off the fuel pump when I change the oil, then spin it over on the starter until pressure registers/the oil light goes out before replacing the plugs and turning the pump back on and starting it up properly.

Then off you go and enjoy your engine

What you want to do is get a good deal of pressure behind the rings so they seat against the cylinder walls properly, wearing high spots off eachother as they go, hence the full throttle runs but not labouring the engine or letting it scream without any real load on (no zinging the limiter).

Nambying the engine doesn't give any appreciable pressure to seat the rings so they just skid across the cylinder wall smoothing off the cross hatching and glazing the bores. Once the bores are glazed, the only thing you can to to "repair" them is to have the engine apart and start again.

The engine braking phase of the cycle gives lots of vacuum in the cylinders which draws oil up inbetween the piston and cylinder wall and hopefully washes away any detritus which has accumulated.

That's why you need to change the oil right after the run in.

[DanThe]

I think there is a few men on here that will run your ring in for u mate!

Are you coming onto me, I havnt even sent you a pic yet

[Simon13]

i've read 20 miles under varying throttle loads no more than 2 thirds. There's various trails of thought.

Run it in hard and they generally go better also so i'm told!

[DanThe]

Cheers Turbo-Brown, already filled with 10w 40 now and added some valve lifter remedy

Like I say, its probably been run for about half an hour, gave it some throttle (about 4k) for a good while to free off the sticky lifters

I will go through that procedure first thing in the morning though

[Chase007]

I think there is a few men on here that will run your ring in for u mate!

If you have nothing of any value to add then please leave the thread alone. Addind a sarcastic comment or the typical to every thread is wearing a little thin.

Consider it a friendly pointer.

Only having a laugh like i have seen other people do, it's not in bad vibes!
Plus i have written quite a lot of advise for people here excuse me!

[jaistanley]

If the bottom end is already run in then Mr Brown is dead right. Cosworth (I think) used to run their turbo engines in in two stages, a gentle run in for the bottom end, pistons out, bores hatched and then a razzing to sharpen up the edges of the new piston rings.

I think a motorbike magazine once tried two methods of running in on two identicle bikes, one carefully tootled about in, the other razzed from day one. Bike engines are so close tolerance the bottom ends need very little running in to bed effectively and therefore were fine. The bike that had been razzed from day one always went better and had a fair few more MPH at top end too iirc.

Compression is your friend. Sharpen up your rings ladies and gentlemen...

[Jhonno]

Master Brown is right, high load (as in low speeds in 4th/5th) and engine braking with shit oil..

Dont maintain an rpm for any amount of time, this is a great way to glaze the bores

[chu346]

Personally like to take the plugs out and turn off the fuel pump when I change the oil, then spin it over on the starter until pressure registers/the oil light goes out before replacing the plugs and turning the pump back on and starting it up properly.

I don't understand the reason for this?

[Colonel Sanders]

Personally like to take the plugs out and turn off the fuel pump when I change the oil, then spin it over on the starter until pressure registers/the oil light goes out before replacing the plugs and turning the pump back on and starting it up properly.

I don't understand the reason for this?

to make sure your oil pessure is still there after the first run, and to get the new oil round maybe?

[Turbo-Brown]

When you take the filter off, the oil galleries drain down (there's a non-return valve in the filter to prevent this happening when the engine's turned off normally).

The engine has to run for a fair amount of time with no oil pressure while the galleries fill again which does it no favours.

Take out the plugs and spin it over until the light goes out and you know the galleries are full and ready to give pressure the moment the engine starts properly.

[DanThe]

taking the plugs out is a major operation on an M50, I could just unplug the EWS module, or use my non-chipped key though

[stonesie]

You will still have the compression pressures going through the bearings though...

[jaistanley]

which is absolutely BUGGER all compared to the pressures at high rpm. The force exerted on the surface of the oil shear is proportional to the square of the rpm of the engine.....

[stonesie]

which is absolutely BUGGER all compared to the pressures at high rpm. The force exerted on the surface of the oil shear is proportional to the square of the rpm of the engine.....

If that was aimed at me, we are on about primeing an engine with empty oil gallerys after the oil change required straight after bedding the rings in.
My answer was assuming that the bottom end bearings would also be new and only have a minimal film of crap oil on them untill the filter and gallerys were re-filled and pressure could build to re-float them.

Probably being over cautious, but with a freshly built engine thats the way to be.

[jaistanley]

it wasn't 'aimed' at anyone, I'm not sniping

plus I was pissed.

[stonesie]

And wasn't in the best mood mate appologies if it reads a little ''off'' (just found out i gotta spend money on a car im not eaven driving fackin ford broke without eaven being touched)


whoops:lol:

[DanThe]

All done, did the above method as much as possible for about 20 miles, did another 10-15 and dumped the oil

Crank bearings were previously run in by the original 328i owner

The extra dollop of torque is great

[OBs]

2.8 litres of twin cammed rightness!

Dan any chance you could PM me a part number for that M/C ?

Or is it waaaaaaaaaay to late

[beardymat]

im getting closer to running my own 2.8 in so this kind of advice makes good reading. mine is a fully rebuilt m20 based jobby with loads of new bits so is it still worth taking it easy after this initial ring bedding stage?

been told not to labour it or rev its knackers off and to build the maximum revs used up gradually.

[DanThe]

If you have new bottom end bearings to run in then you have to take it steady eddy

Master cylinder is now buried beneath inlet gubins

[OBs]

Master cylinder is now buried beneath inlet gubins

[Gunni]

You can´t run in bearing,
rings are the only thing you run in.

crank doesn´t touch bearings when your driving, but a oil film keeps them aparts. same with all the bearings.

Brown is right on the running in.

[Andyboy]

Build your engine. Put some cheap oil in. Drive it normally for a couple of days. Put some nice oil in. Job done. There's no special procedure, just don't let it idle for long periods, don't thrash the bollox off it but let it rev freely. 100 miles is plenty.