Big over Heating issue E30 M10

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whitelightning25
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Post Thu Jun 16, 2005 9:35 pm

Hi Guys/girls

IÔš'm new to E30 Zone, had some fun reading round the group, but now is the time I need some help and advise.

IÔš'm running an E30 318is M10 1986. I have known the car for a number of years it has good history and wanted for nothing over the years. Now I have the car itÔš's decided to develop an over heating problem. In the time I have know the car its always run a little on the worm site for my liking but has never boiled over, it urns just over 2 thirds on the temp gauge

Before I obtained the car it had been stored off road for about 5 months, Before I re Mot`d the car, I ran through usual maintains, including replacing the coolant and oil ECT.



Now the car is running ver hot, while driving round it still runs to 2 thirds of the temp gauge, how ever sat in traffic the temp runs into the red which I feel could be a little dangerous.

On checking the oil, there is no site of water in the oil and the same for oil in the coolant system.

The Rad was replaced with a second hand item 4 years ago, even though I had change the coolant my self the water had turned I nice rusty brown colour, on taking to a local garage I was advised to replace the Rad thermostat and back flush the system, which they completed.

Since then the car has run at 2 thirds the temp scale even sat in traffic, and has run quite happy for about a week now until Tuesday when I hose split.

The hose in question runs from the water pump to the T peace on the side of the thermostat, the hose split with a small hole close to the water pump.

I have replaced the pipe and refilled the coolant system. Then ran up to temp and ensured no air locks in the system. Since then the car has ran up to temp, but the hoses appear to be pressurised beyond what I assume to be normal. When trying to press the pipes they are hard as rock and look under stress, and have started seeping water.

One a compression test all 4 boars give 170psi, and again no water in the oil, or oil in the water. Now IÔš'm at a loss, do I have blow head? Please help

Regards


Lee H
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Gwynleym10
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Post Thu Jun 16, 2005 10:35 pm

First of all welcome to the zone!

I have/had a similar problem...

What i have be told to do, and have done, is remove/damage the internals of the thermostate so that it always open., its a bit difficult to explain really, but i think i just but a bolt or somethink to keep it open.

If this does the trick, then you have exhuast back pressure going into the water, which is working aginst the water pump, its also heating the water up!

I ve had mine thermostate like this for about 4 years now, just get a bit cold in the winter and takes a little while to warm up in winter.....and probably use more fuel...

I even tried putting a genuine thermostate in and it did the same as yours...

While your doing the thermostate, run a hose throught he engne, and give it a real good clean.
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whitelightning25
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Post Thu Jun 16, 2005 10:56 pm

Hi many thanks for you reply.

By passing the thermostat was my next plan, I was being a little reluctant to drill a few holes in the stat with it being brand-new!

I have back flushed the system about 3 times now but while I have the stat off tomorrow IÔš'll do it once more, as it can't hurt.

I've been reading though some of the old posts in the from. And seen similar issues on the M20 engines one symptom that I hadnÔš't picked up on. On starting from cold the engine does run a little lumpy for a few seconds then runs ok. In the posts I've read this has been put down to water leaking into the bores.

But IÔš'm very reluctant at this stage to believe the head could have failed with a crack of the gasket failing. The car has a great amount of power behind it and runs very well even when it is hot.



After you by passed the stat, what sort of temp reading do you get when the car has been running for awhile? Did the hoses remain as pressurised?

Regards

Lee H
Gwynleym10
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Post Thu Jun 16, 2005 11:01 pm

My car generally runs, just under half on the motoway, even when pushing it!
which is about right really. Central london traffic can push it above 3/4 but only on a really hot day (so not this year yet...)!

You man not need to break to thermostate, just a long as you can wedge it open.

You could go all the way to remocve all the internals, but this may mess up emmisiions

Do you still get hot air from the fan inside the car?
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Gwynleym10
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Post Thu Jun 16, 2005 11:04 pm

The hoses do stay pretty presurised, i think BMW's cooling are supposed to run at pretty high pressure, but i don't have any weepage etc etc.

It might be time for a new radiator, manual m10 ones only cost around Ԛ£90 from GSF or Eurocarparts, though i picked a new one off ebay for Ԛ£25!
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Gwynleym10
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Post Thu Jun 16, 2005 11:05 pm

Thermostates don't even cost Ԛ£15 from the dealer!
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whitelightning25
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Post Fri Jun 17, 2005 12:13 am

both the Stat, and Rad are brand new from GSF less thant 10 days old
Martinaston
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Post Fri Jun 17, 2005 1:34 am

Has the water pump impeller fallen apart ? (some are plastic so pulley still turns but nothing happening internally)
With the rad cap off is the coolant running back into the expansion tank ?

Is the internal heater leaking?
The windows steam up on a cold day. (so not much use at this time of year).

Check in the passenger foot well for coolant.(If it's damp the matrix is busted and the dash has to come out to replace it.(buy the metal one not the plastic one) I did read somones post about just replacing the seal for the heater switch but have never tried this.

If you have the know how and want to be sure a new head gasket is only Ԛ£18 and then its up to you if you want to put new head bolts in as well.
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black320
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Post Mon Jun 20, 2005 5:28 pm

What is the Matrix?

I had an over heating problem at weekend and the footwell and glove box of my LHD 320 cabrio were both damp afterwards?

Car kept overheating every 10km until I got to a garage to refill with Antifreeze and not just water.
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Post Mon Jun 20, 2005 5:43 pm

black320 wrote:What is the Matrix?

I had an over heating problem at weekend and the footwell and glove box of my LHD 320 cabrio were both damp afterwards?

Car kept overheating every 10km until I got to a garage to refill with Antifreeze and not just water.
sounds like the one way valve in the heater matrix has gone! can be accessed by removing the glovebox
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black320
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Post Mon Jun 20, 2005 5:50 pm

What does the 1 way valve do and is there any way to check it's gone before removing glove box etc?

Heater is still blowing hot and cold air and the temp of engine appears to be fine after problems of weekend and refilling with coolant.

Thanks for help!
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Post Mon Jun 20, 2005 5:57 pm

the 1 way valve stops the coolant re-entering the matrix once it has passed through!

means the coolant flows in one direction back to the pump

if it blows it soaks the glove box like you say, and will continue to leak coolant.I'd get it replaced asap
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black320
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Post Mon Jun 20, 2005 6:04 pm

Cheers, do you know how much one of them valves would cost?

May have to use BMW as do not have GSF out here in Italy although could always order a few more things at same time.
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Post Mon Jun 20, 2005 6:07 pm

sorry no idea on cost :(

try doing a search for it and see what comes up!
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black320
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Post Mon Jun 20, 2005 6:12 pm

B17510 HEATER VALVE E30 3 SERIES (PLASTIC RADIATOR) Ԛ£70


Found this in GSF, Ԛ£70!!!!! The heater Matrix costs the same. Is that the valve? I hope not but I guess it must be!
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Post Mon Jun 20, 2005 6:14 pm

This will help if you do it yourself
http://www.totalbmwmag.com/HandsOn/TechJun01.PDF
But if the coolant is leaking out you have neglected the cooling system and this is the weak point.
It may not be the valve, just the seal.
Pull it apart before you waste your money and order the wrong part.