power steering fluid
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325i-sport
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what dot for the power steering fluid do i use??? 325i sport

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e30_Turbo
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On the same subject....what colour should the fluid be?
And how easy is it to bleed the system?
I've had problems with mine for ages, when you start the car you only get power assistance on the left until you rotate to the right a full turn or so.
I've tightened up the belt and it's still doing it.
Also when I stationary and have to go lock to lock I get a loud noise, not grinding but sounds like it's two dry surfaces rubbing under pressure, any ideas?
And how easy is it to bleed the system?
I've had problems with mine for ages, when you start the car you only get power assistance on the left until you rotate to the right a full turn or so.
I've tightened up the belt and it's still doing it.
Also when I stationary and have to go lock to lock I get a loud noise, not grinding but sounds like it's two dry surfaces rubbing under pressure, any ideas?
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Sooty
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Colour should be a translucent red (almost like cherryade).
Anything else & it's shot.
Don't know about the sound you're getting though. I've only ever heard the 'moaning' from a pump which is a sure sign that the fluid needs changing.
I'll see what I can come up with about how to change the fluid (that's unless someone beats me to it
Anything else & it's shot.
Don't know about the sound you're getting though. I've only ever heard the 'moaning' from a pump which is a sure sign that the fluid needs changing.
I'll see what I can come up with about how to change the fluid (that's unless someone beats me to it
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e30_Turbo
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Sooty
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If it's that colour, get it changed ASAP.
It's probably been in the car from brand new
I'll try & hurry up with the 'How to' for you.
It's probably been in the car from brand new
I'll try & hurry up with the 'How to' for you.
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e30_Turbo
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Sooty
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OK Mark. How does this look?
READ THESE INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY BEFORE STARTING WORK & ENSURE YOU CAN IDENTIFY THE VARIOUS PARTS.
You will need:
Ԛ• Some latex gloves (the old fluid is very nasty stuff)
Ԛ• Large syringe or something to remove the old fluid from the reservoir.
Ԛ• A small bucket and old oil can for the waste fluid.
Ԛ• Plenty of rags or cloth for spillages.
Ԛ• Some white spirit for cleaning.
Ԛ• Small paintbrush (1/2Ԛâ€a).
Ԛ• 2 new jubilee clips to replace the pipe clips on the hoses to the reservoir.
Ԛ• New fluid (Dexron II ATF) (not sure about the quantity - 2 litres?)
Ԛ• An assistant for the flush & bleed phase.
Using the large syringe, empty the reservoir of the old fluid.
Put some rags under the reservoir to catch spillage & protect the paintwork.
Remove the 3 bolts for the reservoir clamp, cut off the old hose clips and, after making a note of which pipe goes where, remove the pipes from the reservoir.
Remove the fluid reservoir and clean it thoroughly with the white spirit and paint brush.
Pay special attention to the mesh screen on the fluid return port of the reservoir (this screen, when blocked, can be the source of any noises).
Once cleaned & dried off as much as possible, temporarily plug the fluid return port of the reservoir (make sure that the plug can be removed quickly though) and refit the fluid feed pipe to the reservoir using one of the new jubilee clips.
Route the fluid return pipe from the rack into the bucket or old oil can to catch the fluid that will be lost during the flush.
Fill the reservoir with fresh fluid, get your assistant to start the engine and slowly turn the steering wheel from full lock to lock & back again several times. As the fluid is sucked out of the reservoir by the pump, keep adding fresh fluid until clean fluid starts dumping in to the waste bucket.
Turn off the engine. Make sure the second jubilee clip is slipped over the fluid return pipe then quickly remove the temporary plug and refit the return pipe to the reservoir. Tighten the jubilee clip.
Top up the reservoir with fresh fluid to the Max mark on the cap dipstick, get your assistant to start the engine again and slowly turn the steering wheel from full lock to lock & back again several times, in order to bleed the system. Re-check & top-up the fluid level with the engine running until you are certain that no more air bubbles are coming up into the reservoir. Check the pipes for leaks and, if OK, refit the clamp bolts.
Remove the rags from the engine bay (itÔš's embarrassing when they start smouldering!!!) and take the car for a test drive but do keep in mind that you have been playing with the steering system, so be careful.
Please dispose of the old fluid & rags responsibly.
HTH m8
READ THESE INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY BEFORE STARTING WORK & ENSURE YOU CAN IDENTIFY THE VARIOUS PARTS.
You will need:
Ԛ• Some latex gloves (the old fluid is very nasty stuff)
Ԛ• Large syringe or something to remove the old fluid from the reservoir.
Ԛ• A small bucket and old oil can for the waste fluid.
Ԛ• Plenty of rags or cloth for spillages.
Ԛ• Some white spirit for cleaning.
Ԛ• Small paintbrush (1/2Ԛâ€a).
Ԛ• 2 new jubilee clips to replace the pipe clips on the hoses to the reservoir.
Ԛ• New fluid (Dexron II ATF) (not sure about the quantity - 2 litres?)
Ԛ• An assistant for the flush & bleed phase.
Using the large syringe, empty the reservoir of the old fluid.
Put some rags under the reservoir to catch spillage & protect the paintwork.
Remove the 3 bolts for the reservoir clamp, cut off the old hose clips and, after making a note of which pipe goes where, remove the pipes from the reservoir.
Remove the fluid reservoir and clean it thoroughly with the white spirit and paint brush.
Pay special attention to the mesh screen on the fluid return port of the reservoir (this screen, when blocked, can be the source of any noises).
Once cleaned & dried off as much as possible, temporarily plug the fluid return port of the reservoir (make sure that the plug can be removed quickly though) and refit the fluid feed pipe to the reservoir using one of the new jubilee clips.
Route the fluid return pipe from the rack into the bucket or old oil can to catch the fluid that will be lost during the flush.
Fill the reservoir with fresh fluid, get your assistant to start the engine and slowly turn the steering wheel from full lock to lock & back again several times. As the fluid is sucked out of the reservoir by the pump, keep adding fresh fluid until clean fluid starts dumping in to the waste bucket.
Turn off the engine. Make sure the second jubilee clip is slipped over the fluid return pipe then quickly remove the temporary plug and refit the return pipe to the reservoir. Tighten the jubilee clip.
Top up the reservoir with fresh fluid to the Max mark on the cap dipstick, get your assistant to start the engine again and slowly turn the steering wheel from full lock to lock & back again several times, in order to bleed the system. Re-check & top-up the fluid level with the engine running until you are certain that no more air bubbles are coming up into the reservoir. Check the pipes for leaks and, if OK, refit the clamp bolts.
Remove the rags from the engine bay (itÔš's embarrassing when they start smouldering!!!) and take the car for a test drive but do keep in mind that you have been playing with the steering system, so be careful.
Please dispose of the old fluid & rags responsibly.
HTH m8
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e30_Turbo
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Davenotouring
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Top man!
I'm gonna do that on mine in a week or two!
Wanna do the brake fluid soon too.
I know the noise you mean about the two stones. It's only when sitting still i.e. extra stress. if you move forwards slowly and turn the wheel, no noise, I think it would be better after a fluid change!
I heard a cabby over the road from me parking, made exactly the same noise!!
I'm gonna do that on mine in a week or two!
Wanna do the brake fluid soon too.
I know the noise you mean about the two stones. It's only when sitting still i.e. extra stress. if you move forwards slowly and turn the wheel, no noise, I think it would be better after a fluid change!
I heard a cabby over the road from me parking, made exactly the same noise!!

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e30_Turbo
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Dave,
Glad I'm not the only one, it's not grinding but it is if you know what I mean, will have to get the camera out and record the noise....gotta love the digital age!!
I'll be picking up my bits on Sat morning an attemting to resusatate my PS, fingers crossed the weather will be nice and I'll be able to get all the bits too!
Thanks again SOOTY, top man......
Glad I'm not the only one, it's not grinding but it is if you know what I mean, will have to get the camera out and record the noise....gotta love the digital age!!
I'll be picking up my bits on Sat morning an attemting to resusatate my PS, fingers crossed the weather will be nice and I'll be able to get all the bits too!
Thanks again SOOTY, top man......
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Davenotouring
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I reckon it'll be the same noise!
I must sort mine out too.
Like a humming noise isn't it?
I must sort mine out too.
Like a humming noise isn't it?

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e30_Turbo
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SVBMW
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SPOT ON INFO
I've been trying to find out how to do this for ages!!!
Cheers
Tris
I've been trying to find out how to do this for ages!!!
Cheers
Tris
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E30Adam
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I've now added this to the tech articles Sooty, hope you don't mind.
http://www.e30zone.co.uk/modules.php?na ... echnps.htm
http://www.e30zone.co.uk/modules.php?na ... echnps.htm

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tjd200
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Don't want to ruin your fun but... had exactly the same problem (no assist after starting, had to turn the wheel a couple of times before it kicked in)
Followed exact same dismantling & cleaning routine - didn't make a blind bit of difference.
This was about six months ago. Decided I needed a new rack, didn't do anything about it and since then hasn't got any worse.
Followed exact same dismantling & cleaning routine - didn't make a blind bit of difference.
This was about six months ago. Decided I needed a new rack, didn't do anything about it and since then hasn't got any worse.
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Sooty
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Thank You Adam...I'm flattered.
I'll try to get some photos to go with it if you want.
Fair comment tjd, it didn't work in your case, but surely it's better to eliminate one of the most common causes of power steering groaning, before going down the route of blindly changing components?
In your particular case, you've decided that you need a rack. What about the pump?
Very few people (certainly not me anyway) would be prepared to give a cast-iron guarantee that any particular course of action will cure a fault, as there are so many variables to consider.
I'm sure you'll agree that one of the benefits of forums such as this is the ability to offer advice to others that could help them avoid spending large amounts of money on parts that may not be needed.
Fair comment tjd, it didn't work in your case, but surely it's better to eliminate one of the most common causes of power steering groaning, before going down the route of blindly changing components?
In your particular case, you've decided that you need a rack. What about the pump?
Very few people (certainly not me anyway) would be prepared to give a cast-iron guarantee that any particular course of action will cure a fault, as there are so many variables to consider.
I'm sure you'll agree that one of the benefits of forums such as this is the ability to offer advice to others that could help them avoid spending large amounts of money on parts that may not be needed.
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E30Adam
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Pics would be great dude!!

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tjd200
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Just meant as a word of warning, and the instructions for changing and cleaning are useful come what may - sorry if it sounded like I was pssing on your parade!
After doing a bit of searching at the time found many people with same problem - and the general consensus seemed to be classic case of failing rack. I inspected both rack & pump as best i could (small amount of fluid loss from rack, pump apparently healthy) then thought:
what the hell do i know...
and left it.
All this talk and now I'm starting to feel bad for my car - so come sunday most likely I'll be outside my flat, car half on curb, covered in oil with children stopping to stare and their parents hurrying them along in case they develop an unhealthy interest in mechanics.
After doing a bit of searching at the time found many people with same problem - and the general consensus seemed to be classic case of failing rack. I inspected both rack & pump as best i could (small amount of fluid loss from rack, pump apparently healthy) then thought:
what the hell do i know...
and left it.
All this talk and now I'm starting to feel bad for my car - so come sunday most likely I'll be outside my flat, car half on curb, covered in oil with children stopping to stare and their parents hurrying them along in case they develop an unhealthy interest in mechanics.
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SVBMW
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TJD wrote
Good Luck
Done that, and the best bit is when a bus goes past spraying water, salt and Sh*t all over you as you lie on your back!come sunday most likely I'll be outside my flat, car half on curb, covered in oil
Good Luck
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Sooty
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I think I'll be joining you m8....change rear light seals, bleed brakes, cure non-working speedo, alternator tensioner change, etc, etc and all the time, the snotty b*****d from over the road with his company V***hall (wash my mouth with soap & water) will be looking out of his window with a smirk on his faceAll this talk and now I'm starting to feel bad for my car - so come sunday most likely I'll be outside my flat, car half on curb, covered in oil with children stopping to stare and their parents hurrying them along in case they develop an unhealthy interest in mechanics.
Mind you, he's not so cocky when the sun shines & I've got the hood down
