318i to 325i m20b25

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beefy
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Post Mon May 05, 2008 10:03 am

hi i maybe putting the engine from a 1989 325i 4 door into a 1990 318i 2 door.

I have the complete 325i car so everything i will need will be there i think.

What needs swapping over

engine and box
prop
rad
engine loom ecu
exhaust

is there anything else that needs changing over?

How long would this take to do, 1.8i engine out and 2.5i in?

How much would you expect to pay to have a garage do it?

I know my way around an e30 and have done a m30 swap so im thinking this should be easy?

cheers
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jaffro
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Post Mon May 05, 2008 10:47 am

should be a weekend job mate its straight forward enough :P
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daimlerman
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Post Mon May 05, 2008 11:57 am

The time will be taken with the 'fiddley' bits,transfering the brackets for the header tank and similar things.If you have the room and the equipment,swapping the engine/box complete with the crossmember/front struts would make a lot of sense.
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Brianmoooore
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Post Mon May 05, 2008 1:48 pm

The 325 AFM uses a different mounting bracket, and the coolant resevoir needs fixings added - neither are difficult.
The 318 front springs will need changing for the 325 ones, because of the extra weight, or ideally the complete (stronger) 325 front legs should be swapped in, complete with vented discs.
Driving a 325 with a 318 diff would drive me up the wall as well!
jaistanley
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Post Mon May 05, 2008 3:02 pm

I drive a 325i with a 4.1 diff (LSD though) and it really isn't that bad!

To get around having to fit the header tank supports get yourself an E36 325i radiator (actually I think they are the same as the 318iS and possibly the 318i one). My 325i auto came with a radiator that was the same size as the one I removed from my 318iS (only I ended up using the 325i one with the extra header tank as the 318iS one I had was shot). No overheating problems or anything.

I don't know if you can use the 4 pot airbox in place of the 6 pot one on the standard mounts in the engine bay. If not you're going to have to weld in the 325i airbox supports or fit an aftermarket cone type filter.

Good luck mate.
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beefy
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Post Mon May 05, 2008 6:13 pm

ok cheers for the input is there any difference in prop lengths between a 4 door and a 2 door.
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beefy
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Post Mon May 05, 2008 8:42 pm

i dont think i will have the space or be able to get the car high enough? to remove the engine and cross member complete. I think i will remove the engines then remove the front sub frame crossmember with every thing attached but how do i go about this, removing the front sub frame? do i need spring compressors or to split ball joints?
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Brianmoooore
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Post Mon May 05, 2008 10:36 pm

beefy wrote:how do i go about this, removing the front sub frame?
Six nuts, four bolts (plus a few wires and pipes, and the steering shaft.) No spring compressors or ball joint splitters involved!
Rallyprep_UK
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Post Fri May 09, 2008 8:14 pm

Nice

i am doing the same job soon !!!

i am currently driving my e30 318i auto (2 door) and have also a complete and running e30 325i manual (4 door) which i picked up for £250 (failed mot on brake pipes over fuel tank and needed a patch welding on the sill).

here she is...
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Will this swap be any different for me taking into consideration that my 2 door 318i is an auto ????

For example will the 2 wiring looms mate up ok ???

And also i notice that my batt is in the front on the 318 but in the rear of the 325 which make me think the wiring could be different.

The other thing which is obvious is the pedal box, i heard this can be a b**ch - is this true or is there a "trick" to removing it lol.

So heres my parts list from the 325.

I will remove this while keeping it as complete as possible - i have lots of space/tools/hands, and forklifts at my disposal.


Engine/box/crossmember/struts/brakes

propshaft

rear diff/subframe/shafts/brakes - while at it will poly bush rear subframe mounts

handbrake cable - different for discs/drums i expect ???

wiring loom + ecu (complete or engine side - not sure how much i need)???

Fuel pump ???????? is this the same ?

bracket for airbox

radiator

pedal box and int trim gear gaitor etc....

i think this shud b it, if there is anything i have missed i would be forever in your guys debt for letting me know as i need to do this swap in 2 days so that i am not without a car to get to work !!!. :mad:

I also have a nice "m" steering wheel and a set of bbs rs wheels (15") which will find their way onto the beast later on.

ps i work in a large salvage yard and we have an 318i e30 and many other bm's there right now so if ne body wants parts from them or my 325 (except what i need of course) hit me up on my work number 01726 891100 select parts option and ask for "will".

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thanks in advance............
Rallyprep_UK
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Post Fri May 09, 2008 8:20 pm

oh and forgot to mention the exhaust in my parts list...
oops

:o:
Rallyprep_UK
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Post Fri May 09, 2008 9:05 pm

http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... ic&t=97023

just found this which cleared up most of my questions... fuel pump etc

still not sure about the pedal box or wiring - :?: if mine differs being an auto n all...

cheers
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Brianmoooore
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Post Fri May 09, 2008 10:19 pm

You seem to be having a thread all of your own here, so I'd better post a reply!
The only difference as far as the wiring is concerned is that the auto has a starter inhibitor circuit which will be no longer required. Above the glove box there are two black/yellow wires with single pole connectors on them, that are connected to the inhibitor relay and its loom. Unplug the relay and remove it complete with its loom.
This will leave the two black/yellows above the glove box connected to nothing, so simply plug them together.
There are no real problems with the pedal box, other than deep in the footwell isn't the most comfortable place to work.
The pedal box frame is the same for manual or auto, so you can just replace the brake pedal and add the clutch pedal and cylinder, or swap over the whole thing.
jmc330i
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Post Sat May 10, 2008 2:28 pm

Driftnething wrote:And also i notice that my batt is in the front on the 318 but in the rear of the 325 which make me think the wiring could be different.
You can leave the battery where it is up front (as I did on my mine) or you could remove the wiring that runs to the boot from the 325i and fit it there.
wiring loom + ecu (complete or engine side - not sure how much i need)???
Just the engine side - its the round plug up by the fusebox. Dont forget the earth strap that runs from the engine mount to chassis rail (they are on opposite sides between the 318i and 325i).
Also, you will need the battery to starter cable from the 325i. The 318i cable is contained in the engine loom (which you will have removed) but the 325i one is separate.
Fuel pump ???????? is this the same ?
The 318i pump will be fine, but Id keep the one from the 325i as a spare.
James
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Rallyprep_UK
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Post Mon May 19, 2008 11:19 pm

Thanks brian/jmc !

really really appreciate your help, it makes it so much easier going in to the job prepared and knowing what to expect !

i will be starting the swap this weekend, got an extra pair of hands to help me!
:D wahoo cant wait to hear her purrrrrrr. :mad:

will take pics and make a post of my own at some point.

thanks again !
:D
Rallyprep_UK
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Post Sun Jun 22, 2008 7:35 pm