Twin Seq. Dry sumping for beginners :D

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hoshy
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Tue May 06, 2008 3:07 pm

Didn't need to loose PS for relocating the alt. Matt - the way I wrote it up on the other thread, that way the alt uses that normal pulley.

Alex - losing PS is cos the 6v-belt crank pulley bolts on in place of the aux belt drives. Think I'll look at perhaps running an e36 PS pump as that should have a 6v on it also but will have to look in to it.
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Thu May 08, 2008 10:23 pm

Ah haaa! Sorry dude, my memory's bloody awful!

Well, allegedly I should have the replacement flywheel tomorrow or Monday. Of course they forgot to send the sample out again so I'll doubtless have to wait a week before I can check the new flywheel again. What a bloody saga :lol:
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march109
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Thu May 08, 2008 10:27 pm

Hope its all FOC!

Who made it? do they have the pattern now? can the make them off the shelf for other M20 owners? winkeye
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hoshy
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Thu May 08, 2008 10:27 pm

Crisis! And it's not like you pop down to halfrauds either :)
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Thu May 08, 2008 10:29 pm

Got a E36 PAS pump of a 320i if anyone wants to give me some cash for it? :)
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Mon May 12, 2008 1:47 pm

Well, Brown's ready to go to the cubing station once I swap some panels about onto the pink car :(

What a sweaty weekend of car breaking that was :lol:

Also, we're getting a milling machine! My mind's running riot thinking of the bits and bobs I can make now :D

A giant BLEEEEEEE to that :D
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Mon May 12, 2008 11:26 pm

Turbo-Brown wrote: My mind's running riot thinking of the bits and bobs I can make now :D
There's going to be no stopping you now ! :cool:
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Tue May 13, 2008 10:58 pm

He heee! Off to pick up the milling machine on Saturday and I've just ordered all the materials I need to take a mould off the boot lid.

I'm not all that confident that I can make decent carbon fibre panels, but the only way to find out is to give it a go! :D
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Tue May 13, 2008 11:17 pm

I love C/F parts, just not the prices ! :)

Given the choice i'd have loads of C/F parts on my car !
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Tue May 13, 2008 11:20 pm

:cool:
THERE IS NO RIGHT SIDE TO WAR! ONLY THE SIDE THAT IS LEFT!
march109
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Tue May 13, 2008 11:27 pm

Chase007 wrote::cool:
Yeah it is but why have you posted :cool: 11 times in your last 55 posts? Can't think of anything else to post whore with?

Alex on topic again mate where have you ordered your CF? I got some 2x2 Cf and 2x2 CF.Kevlar from ebay last night to check it out.

Thinking Tech2 kit, wings and boot, I'm buying the bonnet from the group buy it will actually work out cheaper, plus large panels are a PITA!
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Tue May 13, 2008 11:38 pm

Because i have a bad hand at the mo and its a pain to type and the other half is in bed so i cant ask her to type what i want so if its such a big deal to you then :cool:
THERE IS NO RIGHT SIDE TO WAR! ONLY THE SIDE THAT IS LEFT!
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Wed May 14, 2008 1:59 pm

Well, be interesting to see how I get on with das boot....lid. It's cost about £170 in materials for the mould but I'm hopeful that the finished boot-lids will be relatively cheap to make!

I've bought the stuff from https://www.ecfibreglasssupplies.co.uk Gareth, how much was your CF cloth mate? Forgot you know how to do this kind of stuff mate!

Think they charge £29.38/sqm of 200g 2x2 Twill CF.

Really looking forward to giving this a go!

My understanding is that Kevlar can't be exposed to sunlight as it degrades, but for intermediate layers it'd be fine I guess.

I was gonna do a two skin boot, bonnet and front wings and if I can be bothered, tripple skin door skins with a Diolen interlayer and as big a stiffening rib as I can get in there. Had a look inside an E30 door the other day and was shocked at the complete and total lack of side impact protection!
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march109
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Wed May 14, 2008 2:09 pm

Yeah you can't use Kevlar for the outer layer, but CF/kevlar composite stands up to UV reasonably well especially with a UV resistant resin, TBH CF degrades (at least the look) over time anyway too. CF/Kevlar for intermediate layers is also great because its actually stronger, and cheaper then CF, with very very very little weight penalty.

I was buying my CF retail just to see what the quality is like, but thats a good price may order some from there myself.

Be interested to see how your mould comes out. I've allready done a GRP boot lid single skin it weighs next to nothing but needs to be pinned.

TBH moulding is giving me a ral headache at the moment, I've been doing a few small fidly pieces and I'm about to blow up at them, can't seem to get it right. Doesn't help that I'm feeling rotton o my week off too.
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hoshy
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Wed May 14, 2008 10:52 pm

Turbo-Brown wrote: I was gonna do a two skin boot, bonnet and front wings and if I can be bothered, tripple skin door skins with a Diolen interlayer and as big a stiffening rib as I can get in there. Had a look inside an E30 door the other day and was shocked at the complete and total lack of side impact protection!
I hear you on that! Would NOT want be in a side on smash in an e30!

:clin:
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Thu May 15, 2008 2:03 pm

march109 wrote: Be interested to see how your mould comes out. I've allready done a GRP boot lid single skin it weighs next to nothing but needs to be pinned.

TBH moulding is giving me a ral headache at the moment, I've been doing a few small fidly pieces and I'm about to blow up at them, can't seem to get it right. Doesn't help that I'm feeling rotton o my week off too.
Yeah, the first worry is prepping the bootlid itself properly. I've got about 40 sheets of 1200grit wet and dry plus a polishing mop. Not fussed about the paint obviously, just the finish of it.

Thing is, the company said I need to use a PVA release agent followed by lots of wax or the gel-coat will react with the paint so I'm not too sure how well the finish I get on the paint will translate onto the mould.

So did you literally make a single skin, one layer of CF cloth? Would love to see a piccy! :D

Was planning on buying some 3mm thick core-mat to laminate up say 9mm stiffeners on the inside of my boot lid similar to the originals. Might be tempted to use a carbon/kevlar inner skin cos I think it looks cool, they only seem to do plain weave though which might be a bit of a pain when it comes to compound curves. It's only a couple of quid cheaper than carbon too.

Was hoping all the kit might be here for the weekend but not sure it will be. Still, got the panel prep to do I guess!
hoshy wrote:
I hear you on that! Would NOT want be in a side on smash in an e30!

:clin:
To be honest, I can't imagine a panel I make being any stronger than the original, but it'll make me feel safer! :)
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Sat May 17, 2008 7:57 pm

Bleeeeee! We now have a properly tooled up machine room! :D Well, a lathe and a vertical milling machine.

Should make my life SO much easier! Rather than having to use adaptors I've made for the lathe for milling things up, I can just go to the mill :)

Sad isn't it :lol:
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march109
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Sat May 17, 2008 8:12 pm

Well in places it was more than single skin, but to add stiffness in the panel I added paper rope between the resin and glass fibre (could have used string I suppose). And to be honest its not good enough for a road car the finish on the edges are shocking, if I was going to do it again I'd use more resin on the edges.

Its certainly not waterproof either. I didn't use gel coat either just resin, not the best way to do it I know but it was an experiment and probably cost less than £10 in materials. I don't know how your planning on moulding it but it is a pita I assume your just covering the original piece to make a negative plug?

Why don't you use cellophane? normal kitchen stuff, thats what I did, then use fine grit wet and dry in the plug to smooth out the wrinkles one you pull the cellophane out. I used a scrap boot lid so wasn't worried about the paint ect...

If I was doing what your doing I'd mould the lid and the supports underneath as two components and then bond them after. Buy some of those bags for packing clothes in and the hoovering out the air. Pack your CF as your laying it up in and then hoover out the air and leave to dry. The vacuum iin the bag puts constant pressure on the laminate as it cures. Helps with tight curves.

There is an arrangement of further layers you need in the bag to protect the laminate but it works well I'll try find the link I used for you.
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Sun May 18, 2008 12:07 am

Definately with you on trying things out! Tis the only way to learn once you've had a read of some books etc! :D

Took a couple of final piccies of Brown today. Was really gutted about these wheels, bought them, had them polished, then found out they were all very very bent indeed! :lol:

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Sun May 18, 2008 12:13 am

:cry: theyre cool looking wheels! What are they?
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Tue May 20, 2008 4:22 pm

Chrome wheel arches, oh the shame of it ! :eek:


















:lol:
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Tue May 20, 2008 4:28 pm

If the wheels are scrap alex turn them into a coffee table with a perspex top, its not beyond a man of your talents, then the next set of sports seat you get turn into a 3 piece suite your lounge would be proper pimped then.

:lol:
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Tue May 20, 2008 5:36 pm

march109 wrote:If the wheels are scrap alex turn them into a coffee table with a perspex top, its not beyond a man of your talents, then the next set of sports seat you get turn into a 3 piece suite your lounge would be proper pimped then.

:lol:
Definately!!
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Wed May 21, 2008 7:26 am

They were MSW something-or-others. My Dad had a set almost exactly the same on an old Volvo and they all ended up bent too, despite never having been kerbed, so I'd say if you ever see a set for sale, tread carefully!

The chrome arches are about all that got the car through it's last two MOTs. They ended up zip-tied on and covering some massive rust holes :D

Would be cool to make something from Brown as a memento, really does need a set of wheels to roll down the drive and onto the Happy Truck to the.....Happy Car Land place.


Minor update: I've bought a diff! Spent ages umming and aahing about whether to go for a 3.07 from an E28 and thinking that a slipper would probably be knackered by now. Then spotted yesterday that there was a 3.15 LSD from a scrapped Z M Coupe which has covered 66k so hopefully it'll be a goodun!
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Thu May 22, 2008 9:45 pm

What do people do about the guibo for big power M20s out of interest?

The one on Brown is showing signs of disintegration after just 6000 miles and with only 240lbft max of torque!

The only cheap solution I've come up with (and ordered) is a set of 12No. 0.9mm thick stainless steel straps which will be loaded in tension when in the forward gears. Worth a go and haven't really cost anything as I needed to make an order up to £50 with a laser cutting company.
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gareth
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Thu May 22, 2008 10:02 pm

could a M30 guibo be used possibly? it's a lot bigger and uses M12 bolts :cool:
afaik, you can swap the flanges between M20 and M30 gearboxes so a custom (or M3?) prop should do it.
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Fri May 23, 2008 1:51 pm

Aah, good point!

I've got a 535tds gearbox which (measured yesterday) has M12 bolts too so presumably it's bigger than the M20 one too.

Anyway, I calculate that my straps would be able to transmit 1111Nm of torque on their own, so they should do a good job of defending the guibo :D
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Fri May 23, 2008 2:04 pm

if in doubt, overengineer it! :D

i just checked on e30.de and you can swap M20 / M30 guibo flanges between the gearboxes.
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Fri May 23, 2008 2:10 pm

gareth wrote:if in doubt, overengineer it! :D
Eeeeeeeeeexactly :D

Thinking about it though, does having a larger guibo not mean that the gear link rod is a bit close if you've got a short shifter? :?
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Fri May 23, 2008 2:17 pm

ahaa, true. mine clears my 1.9 Z3 shifter ok but it's on an M30 gearbox.

i'll be under the car later so i'll measure it up for you. you will have to leave the vibration damper off too... silly thing to have anyway!
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Sat May 24, 2008 12:58 am

i had a rough (tape measure) measure up earlier...
M20 guibo: OD=110mm, thickness=28mm, M10 bolts on a 79mm PCD
M30 guibo: OD=130mm, thickness=30mm, M12 bolts on a 95mm PCD

don't make anything to suit those dimensions as they're pretty rough but you get the idea. looks like you'd lose 10mm of shifter clearance but it's a lot more manly! :D
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Sun May 25, 2008 10:48 am

Turbo-Brown wrote:Mixed news from today's haul. The clutch fits the flywheel (sigh of relief!)

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Looks like a BMW MS 7.25" MS billet fly wheel to me, you know theres a whole bunch of other parts that you will need to get this to work?

A
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Gunni
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Sun May 25, 2008 1:25 pm

Have you even read this thread?
I don´t think Brown is going to have any problems.
With great challenges comes great engineering.

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Sun May 25, 2008 1:49 pm

Gunni wrote:Have you even read this thread?
I don´t think Brown is going to have any problems.
Yes i have - you dont think hes not going to have any problems?

OK

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Sun May 25, 2008 7:53 pm

Cheers for the info Gareth :thumb: Looks like the 525tds output is the same with the 95mm PCD too :D

Still gotta get the friction plates for the clutch. Think a Saab concentric release bearing will fit with a little machining too and that'll be that done I reckon.

All the other bits like intermediates and pressure plate are in a box at home.

Incidentally after about 12 weeks, I've FINALLY got the flywheel machined with the correct number of teeth!

What a bloody struggle!
Last edited by Turbo-Brown on Tue May 27, 2008 1:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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