HELP! CENTRAL LOCKING NOT WORKING!

[fastcarz464]

A few weeks ago, i removed the alarm system from my cab, the central locking was working fine before.
After removing the alarm, the central locking does not work at all, i have changed the black c/l box with one that i know that works and still no working c/l!
i dont think there is any power from the black/red wire, the fuse is fine, electric mirrors are working,
What is the problem?? how do i make it work as i am fitting a new alarm system?
please help, cheers!

[Brianmoooore]

Here goes again.
Remove the right footwell speaker and locate two seperate red/black wires that go to the door connector socket.
Cut them both away from the socket, as close as you can get, through the speaker hole, solder the two wires together, and insulate.

[johnono]

bri, sorry to ask the obvious but if its a left hooker will the wires be on the same side still?

ive been wanting to ask this for ages but forgot tbh, and only found out where the cent. lockin control box was 2 day ago

[Brianmoooore]

Not so obvious. I've never worked on a left hooker, but I suspect the whole central locking loom is reversed, since this would move the interior light delay unit to the correct side as well.
Which side is your locking ECU?

[johnono]

on the left directly below the speaker,

[A1BMW325iSport]

Here goes again.
Remove the right footwell speaker and locate two seperate red/black wires that go to the door connector socket.
Cut them both away from the socket, as close as you can get, through the speaker hole, solder the two wires together, and insulate.

why are 2 wires the same going to the drivers door socket?

[johnono]

i dunno, but it uses the door pins to connect the two wiers, basically threads in and out of the plug.

so if u were to cut them and tread them through the little hole in the plug then if the plug did get wet the central locking wouldnt be affected.

thats what i need

[A1BMW325iSport]

those door plugs are a nightmare though aren`t they i have 3 wires in mine that i`ve cut and joined

[fastcarz464]

Thanks guys,

Brian, i will join the two red/black wires together now and see if it works, thanks alot for the advice mate!

[Brianmoooore]

There are two seperate red/black wires going to two seperate pins on the driver's door socket. Cut them off and join them together.
When you've finished , neither of them should still be connected to the socket.
For some reason, known only to BMW designers, the power feed for the central locking goes through a pin of the door socket, into the door, around a loop of wire, back out again through another pin of the door socket, and then to the locking ECU vie the interor light delay socket.
This excursion into the door is uneccessary, and, in the interest of reliability, is best removed as I described.
Problems with the door sockets generally can be avoided if the pins and sockets are given a good dose of SILICON grease before assembly, and the rubber boots are in place properly.

[fastcarz464]

I had a look at i seem to have 3 black/red wires, so i cut all 3 and joined them together, now the car locks but wont unlock?
whats the problem now? it seems as if this has happened before and some idiot has chopped and joined afew wires, looks a mess, i will clean up everything when its all working, cheers guys!

[Brianmoooore]

According to all my circuit diagrams, and on all the cars I have worked on, there are only two red/black wires going to the driver's door socket, but someone else on here once claimed to have found a third one.
The only other wire to the door socket with red as it's main colour, is red/brown, and sets the deadlocks.
The red/blacks you want are one down on its own beside the big hole through the socket, and the wire in the main bunch that is physically closest to it.
If you still can't sort it, one should have permanent 12V+ on it, which only goes when you pull fuse 27, and the other wire you should be able to physically trace to a six pin "relay" socket which will either have nothing in it, and be just floating around, or will have a "relay" fitted and be attached to the locking ECU mounting plate. There are two red/black wires connected to the pin of the socket. ( second one goes on to the lock ECU)

[A1BMW325iSport]

just looked at mine as well, it has 3 red/black wires
two are thick and one is thin.

Matt

[fastcarz464]

Thanks guys ive sorted it all now, what i did is disconnected the C/L ecu, then earthed pin 1 and put 12v to pin 2, then it unlocked all the doors. i then attatched the ecu back and wired up the alarm to negative pulse and all works perfectly.
with the 3 red/black wires, i just joined them all up and that seems to have done the job fine so thanks for the advice guys!!

[Brianmoooore]

just looked at mine as well, it has 3 red/black wires
two are thick and one is thin.

Matt

Going to three seperate pins on the door pillar socket?

[fastcarz464]

mine was 3 separate red/black wires going to door socket, what is the plug taped up near the c/l ecu btw?

[johnono]

sorry to fly up the ointment, but i heard from a mate that there is some kind of inline fuse connected to the central locking wire thingemy jigs... is this true?

[A1BMW325iSport]

yes they are 3 pins in door socket with the black/red wires.
not sure why, i have light delay on mine maybe something
to do with that.

[Brianmoooore]

The unused socket is for an interior lamp delay modole.
No inline fuse, but a thermal trip inside the ECU case. (A spring soldered to a resistor, which gets hot and melts the solder.)

[Brianmoooore]

yes they are 3 pins in door socket with the black/red wires.
not sure why, i have light delay on mine maybe something
to do with that.

Nothing to do with the light delay. There's only one wire to the door socket for that, and it's brown/green.
I've checked half a dozen E30 looms, and none have this third wire.
Do you have the red/brown going to a pin?
Can you see which pin number it goes to?

[Danstable]

Brian, you mention 'someone else'.....I think that was me! After I played around with my central locking all my door solenoids burned out a few days later and the rear doors are still deadlocked (got a garage to un-deadlock the fronts).

Just wondering if I have done something with the red/brown wire that has made the deadlocks get constant power or something under certain conditions?! I've had loads of problems with my locking.....but for all solenoids and apparently the control unit to burn out, surely this would take something 'special'??!