KICKER CABBY.....PLEASE help

[breezebreeze30]

system...
orion 2500d
2x kicker l7 12''

hello peoples....need some advice...

i wana make a custom sub box for my cabby.... im thinking 34'' w, 14'' h , 15'' D
i want pressure and excursion as these subs are shit... should gone for the 15s... any suggestions as to what size to make the box?n port sizes too... im gona keep the subs at 2 ohm and seperate....

experienced ice'ers only please... cheers lads.!!!![/img]

[roley]

have you gone on to the kicker site yet . you can down load the box and port sizes there under manuals .the sizes you have quoted seem about right . good luck

[padi]

Will that fit under the roof recess? Seems a little too high, unless of course its designed to fit just in the boot?

[breezebreeze30]

well the problem is..it WONT fit under the recess...its gona have to go in the main boot area... (
im a bit gutted as iv gone balls out on getting the 250d orion amo n although the kicker 12's ARE known to be shit iv already got the world stacked against me.... so im now jus preying that the car wont vibrate too much producing that horrid sound.... hence if sumone has already done somthing similar ill be gratful....

heres what iv cum up with.... the 3rd lowest square in the back seat is cumming out on either side to act as a port...iv never seen it done before so ill give it a whirl... from what i can make out the obly thing stopping me will be the rear heater..... ill keep u guys posted...

[mrLEE30]

for sub box designs think outside the box!!! a sub box does not have to be square, neither do the subs need to face forward or upwards!!! so use the space properly and get creative. And as low frequency waves are omnidirectional (i.e they do not seem to come from one point) it does not really matter too much which way the speaker actually faces when designing a sub enclosure for a small space such as a car

as you can see below i have made the box to fit under the roof enclosure, the internal volume of the box is 3cu.ft and the port is 4x13 inches firing to the side of the box (you cannot see the port in the pic as it fires to the side away from the camera) i went for this design as it gave the best ''out of car'' response according to the splurge that came with the speaker, and as i consider driving a cab practically sitting outside the car i went for this design... the downside is the internal volume must be big hence the big box, look into sealed designs and band-pass designs... complicated but smaller

the speaker is a 12 inch and it fits perfectly, i can also fit my wakeboard in the boot so ithe boot is still usable (and if you are that way inclined a set of golf clubs will fit in!!)

as you want two 12 inchers design the box in a similar manner then its best to effectively make two seperate boxes (or really one box sealed in the middle) with the ports firing out each side.

dont bother trying to port the sound through the holes behind the back seat, they simply are not big enough to allow sifficient air to flow (even with my one speaker set up), bets bet is to soundproof the boot as much as possible to stop vibrations and rattles, or as i did remove the vent flaps that allow the air to vent out behind sides of the rear bumper,

Other considerations are... you need to be able to remove the box if you need to get to the spare tyre (easy on mine by simply unplugging the amp power and input leads and the whole box/amp comes out), you need to mount the amp somewhere and dont forget it gets hot and it normally must be mounted flat so the heatsinks are at the top allowing the heat to dissapate upwards

and finally the rear heater you mention, i personally use that as my amp power supply, its fused for 30A and is easy to connect to (you must short out the micro switch under the roof frame or it will only work when the roof is up!!) i did not see any need for this heater so i binned it (plus you can turn off the sub when entering dodgy areas by simply switching off the rear demister switch on the dash.)

if you would like any more advice please let me know.... the system i have sounds very bassy in thr car, in fact too bassy as the speakers in the car cannot give enough mid and high range to keep up with the bass.... a problem i am working on but i dont want to go down custom door pod builds...

[miniblob]

for sub box designs think outside the box!!! a sub box does not have to be square, neither do the subs need to face forward or upwards!!! so use the space properly and get creative. And as low frequency waves are omnidirectional (i.e they do not seem to come from one point) it does not really matter too much which way the speaker actually faces when designing a sub enclosure for a small space such as a car

Well said, not enough people do this!!!!