m30 conversion progress and questions
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gareth
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ahaa, that's assuming you can get the box on with the engine in the car though! the easiest way to change the box is to pull the whole lump out.
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Guess what i fitted to engine earlier today Theo, and the alternator. 
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gareth
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arch, theo beat me to it!
re the weather, remember mine, tobys and a few other M30's went in with snow about! it's a mans engine, be a man!
re the weather, remember mine, tobys and a few other M30's went in with snow about! it's a mans engine, be a man!
Sole founder of Fe2O3-12V it's a lifestyle
LSD rebuilding / modification services provided, PM for details
LSD rebuilding / modification services provided, PM for details
Alternator is fine mate, but not having the PAS pump fitted makes it easier. If you really are going to fit the lump and box seperately, then keep the pump on....That said, definitely worth putting the engine and box in together in my experience.
I've been out in the cold working on the car today too, took the head off my engine in the car, that makes removing the gearbox very easy indeed!
I've been out in the cold working on the car today too, took the head off my engine in the car, that makes removing the gearbox very easy indeed!
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Andy335Touring
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Some time's joining the box to the engine on the car can be a PITA, luckily the last time i did it, it went in fine. IIRC i left off the top one(or two?) gear box bolts to make things easier as there's plenty of others to hold it on.
It's bloody cold today, i stopped working on my car at about six today, frost on the roof as i packed away my tools !
Crawling on my back trying to re-fit my sub-frame/diff on my own is not the best of jobs even in the summer.
One of my drive shafts is properly rusted into the hub splines, i was wacking it with a sledge hammer and it wouldn't budge
It's bloody cold today, i stopped working on my car at about six today, frost on the roof as i packed away my tools !
Crawling on my back trying to re-fit my sub-frame/diff on my own is not the best of jobs even in the summer.
One of my drive shafts is properly rusted into the hub splines, i was wacking it with a sledge hammer and it wouldn't budge
good work beefy getting it started!!! its great starting it for the first time and with no mani 
as for you boys who are trying to get the engine in.......just beef it!!!!!! (no beefy connection there)
best thing to do is set the engine at a big angle to start with, raise the front of the car then have one person aiming and the other standing on the bulk head/wind screen and get one foot on the gear box pushing it down to get the angle of about 45 degree's or more.
shoe horn the big lump in. there is no need to take any bits off just get it in there!!!
also loosen the gearbox mount and push it right back.
i was doing my conversion on teh main road and people driving past just looked at me funny
for good reason
as for you boys who are trying to get the engine in.......just beef it!!!!!! (no beefy connection there)
best thing to do is set the engine at a big angle to start with, raise the front of the car then have one person aiming and the other standing on the bulk head/wind screen and get one foot on the gear box pushing it down to get the angle of about 45 degree's or more.
shoe horn the big lump in. there is no need to take any bits off just get it in there!!!
also loosen the gearbox mount and push it right back.
i was doing my conversion on teh main road and people driving past just looked at me funny
for good reason
Starting to get back into the project ive swapped the pins for the eco meter and then started it up to see if it worked. When i switched the ignition off the engine kept running any ideas why this happened?
Also how do i i get the heaters working i understand that pin 15 needs to go to the starter but how do i do this?
Thanks in advance for any help
Also how do i i get the heaters working i understand that pin 15 needs to go to the starter but how do i do this?
Thanks in advance for any help
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The wire from pin 15 is simply fed to the small spade terminal on the starter motor. You can run it down the bulkhead behind the servo and inlet manifold so it doesn't show too much, or with the rest of the starter wiring.
Engine running on after ignition is switched off is either a faulty starter solenoid or maybe a mistake in wiring up the starter circuit.?
Engine running on after ignition is switched off is either a faulty starter solenoid or maybe a mistake in wiring up the starter circuit.?
Jeremy Clarkson wrote:...but it drives the front wheels. Theee wrooong wheels!
da4x4turbo wrote:I raced a vivaro on the motorway once in a 318is.... and lost!!!
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Brianmoooore
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What the hell happened to the big, long reply I posted on here about two hours ago??? Or is there a parallel thread running?
Didn't think the M30 starter had a second small terminal for the green/black wire? If it hasn't, connect the wire to the inner large stud on the starter solenoid. The one that has a short link to the motor.
If it runs on after you switch the ignition off, then you are not cutting power to the + terminal of the ignition coil. Connect a lamp between the coil + and the car body, and see if it lights with the ignition off. If it does, unplug the C101 engine loom connector and see if that kills it. Then unplug whatever is connected to the immobiliser socket above the glovebox, and see if that kills it.
Definitely nothing to do with the starter solenoid or circuit, unless it's only running on by being turned at cranking speed by the starter motor.
Didn't think the M30 starter had a second small terminal for the green/black wire? If it hasn't, connect the wire to the inner large stud on the starter solenoid. The one that has a short link to the motor.
If it runs on after you switch the ignition off, then you are not cutting power to the + terminal of the ignition coil. Connect a lamp between the coil + and the car body, and see if it lights with the ignition off. If it does, unplug the C101 engine loom connector and see if that kills it. Then unplug whatever is connected to the immobiliser socket above the glovebox, and see if that kills it.
Definitely nothing to do with the starter solenoid or circuit, unless it's only running on by being turned at cranking speed by the starter motor.
I only just saw your other post Brian! 
Your's was a much better answer too! 
Your's was a much better answer too!
Jeremy Clarkson wrote:...but it drives the front wheels. Theee wrooong wheels!
da4x4turbo wrote:I raced a vivaro on the motorway once in a 318is.... and lost!!!
i tried this today,
with the ignition off there is no 12v at the coil.
with the ignition on there is 12v at the coil.
with the engine running and ignition on there is 12v at the coil.
with the engine running and ignition off there is 12v at the coil.
when i kill the engine by pulling the ht lead from the coil then there is no 12v at the coil.
Hmmm?
with the ignition off there is no 12v at the coil.
with the ignition on there is 12v at the coil.
with the engine running and ignition on there is 12v at the coil.
with the engine running and ignition off there is 12v at the coil.
when i kill the engine by pulling the ht lead from the coil then there is no 12v at the coil.
Hmmm?
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Brianmoooore
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Sounds like somehow, you've wired the alternator output to the ignition circuit. Either the main output or the blue wire from the D+ terminal.
Disconnect the two wires, one at a time.
Disconnect the two wires, one at a time.
Disconnected the small blue wire and switched off with the ignition.
With the engine loom and the car loom connected i get a circuit from this blue wire and the coil.
With the engine loom and car loom disconnected i dont circuit with either the engine or car loom.
With the engine loom and the car loom connected i get a circuit from this blue wire and the coil.
With the engine loom and car loom disconnected i dont circuit with either the engine or car loom.
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For the fan wiring as im going for the switch on the dash method.
My fan is pulling about 8.5 amps (checked it with a clamp meter) So what size fuse do i need to be using is 10amp correct. What relay will i need to use I hav some but think there 30 amp.
Also what connectors do i use to wire the relay into the fuse box, there is extra axtra spaces in the box but with no connections on the under side.
I have an idea how to physically wire the fan up so that sorted.
cheers.
My fan is pulling about 8.5 amps (checked it with a clamp meter) So what size fuse do i need to be using is 10amp correct. What relay will i need to use I hav some but think there 30 amp.
Also what connectors do i use to wire the relay into the fuse box, there is extra axtra spaces in the box but with no connections on the under side.
I have an idea how to physically wire the fan up so that sorted.
cheers.
E30 M30 Mounts £100 pm me for info.
Beefy, If you are going to all the trouble of wiring up a fan with a relay, why not do away with a manual switch on the dash and use a switch mounted on the side of the rad? I've just got hold of a 635 rad with a single speed temp switch on it but I'm swapping it with a later two speed one.beefy wrote:For the fan wiring as im going for the switch on the dash method.
My fan is pulling about 8.5 amps (checked it with a clamp meter) So what size fuse do i need to be using is 10amp correct. What relay will i need to use I hav some but think there 30 amp.
Also what connectors do i use to wire the relay into the fuse box, there is extra axtra spaces in the box but with no connections on the under side.
I have an idea how to physically wire the fan up so that sorted.
cheers.
regards
john
Yeah its basically cos i cant find one really and cant afford to buy the setup from bmw because feel the money will be better spent elsewhere.
Do you want to sell the one you dont want?
Do you want to sell the one you dont want?
E30 M30 Mounts £100 pm me for info.
Any ideas what this wire is for. It goes from the altenator through the engine loom then though the car loom and disappears into the bulk head.
Also i fitted a z3 shifter and the m20 gear linkage were the two join. There is about a 10mm gap to the little yellow washer and the clip. I dont think this right should i make up some spacers for it.
Also i fitted a z3 shifter and the m20 gear linkage were the two join. There is about a 10mm gap to the little yellow washer and the clip. I dont think this right should i make up some spacers for it.
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Brianmoooore
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Alternator warning light and reference voltage for the charging system.beefy wrote:Its thin and blue and yeah goes through the c101 plug then goes through bulk head
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Brianmoooore
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Somehow you've got this blue wire connected to the green ignition wire. Most likely a wrong or cross connection at the C101, since that's where the rewiring has been done.
i swapped the pins back which i changed and the problem was still there i shall check out this blue wire and green wise 2moro. What happens if i just leave this blue wire dissconnected i know its not right?
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also the other thing i have changed is ive fitted is an obc but this was basickly plug and play but could this have an effect,
And i changed the 4 pot coding plug to the 6 pot one both of which i cant see causing the problem?
And i changed the 4 pot coding plug to the 6 pot one both of which i cant see causing the problem?
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Brianmoooore
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If you leave the blue wire disconnected at the alternator, your battery won't charge properly, and there will be some odd behaviour from the instrument cluster regarding the warning bulb check system.
You say you have measured a short between the blue wire and the green? Still there with the C101 unplugged?
You say you have measured a short between the blue wire and the green? Still there with the C101 unplugged?
with the c101 un plugged i get a circuit from the blue wire with pins 14,15,16 these wires are green, green and black, brown and white is correct or is this were the problem is?
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Brianmoooore
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What resistance figures do you get? You should get a low resistance between blue and green, as the ignition warning light is connected between these two.
yeah its low about 1 ohm. Get about 9 between blue and green and yellow pins 1 and 5.
I got the pin numbers and colors wrong earlier. Its actually blue is pin 1, circuit between pin 1 and pins 5(green/yellow) pin 6 (green) pin 7 (brown/white)
So between
1and5 i get about 9
1and6 i get about 1
1and7 i get about 1
I got the pin numbers and colors wrong earlier. Its actually blue is pin 1, circuit between pin 1 and pins 5(green/yellow) pin 6 (green) pin 7 (brown/white)
So between
1and5 i get about 9
1and6 i get about 1
1and7 i get about 1
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