What to look for in a 325i Sport

[Mahmood]

Hi all

I am viewing a 325i Sport this week and need to know what to look out for as I am considering buying one very soon

Is there a 'Sport' Buyer's Guide somewhere?

Please do state the 'bleedin' obvious as I do not own one one at present and therefore am not really an 'expert' in terms of what to look for.

Cheers all. Roll on six-pot rightness!!!

[dazleeds]

not a great expert on the sport myself as havent had one for several years but check everthing mate to be safe
rust wise check under the door pods and skirts if poss as these are known to hold water behind them and have heard tales of no door bottoms left when pods removed scarey also rear inner arches pull boot carpet back and see if you can see the road if you can run unless you know a damn good welder bulkhead check that look for water leakin in etc sills not usually too bad in my experience
im sure some of the sport boys will pop up with extra info cheers and good luck mate Daz

[A1BMW325iSport]

check on log book it should say "325i Sport"

also will have black headlining.

bodywork check everywhere but pay special attn to... sills, rear arches, battery tray area for the dreaded rust

[Simon13]

Mahmood we have told u everything! well every time i see u!

Try and get the car jacked up and have a good look underneath, let your head not heart make the decision!!!!

[Mahmood]

Hi all

Many thanks for the tips.

Simon - lol; cheers mate - yes, you've told me many a time. I'm getting as bad as you with your H + R cup Kit? Have you bought it yet?

Over and out...for now....

[Karan]

the cup kit is legendary.....!!!!!

u r so gonna love it dude!!

Karan

[placey]

beeem318i

some hard won advice for you to consider or ignore as you choose:

generally have a plan before you get there and stick to it.

before you set off ask the owner to ensure that the engine is cold and that the car has not been used for at least half a day. take with you some cloths, some overalls, a magnet, a trolley jack (if you have one), a torch and a metal bar, failing that a large screw driver. ensure you have at least an hours daylight left when you get there.

if you find any serious fault be prepared to walk away. there's enough of these about to be picky - so you may as well get the best one you can. any fault that you do find point out to the owner as you go along.

first up crouch at each corner of the car and check all edges for straightness - a poorly repaired crash will show if you look carefully. also check each panel for ripples and dents. next check each and every shut line - they should all be about 3mm and even along every length. any deviations and it's been accident repaired. now check every edge for paint lines showing careless re-painting in the past. check everywhere for rust for if you can see it from the outside there'll be a load more behind it when you or somebody you're paying starts cutting it away. the sport in particluar requires bodykit removal for a proper rust evaluation - if the owner is reluctant or unable to remove it for you ask yourself (and maybe him/her) why that is. also check the areas noted above especially the suspension towers in the boot and below the windscreen as these are both difficult areas to repair. apply the magnet (protected by the cloth) to any suspicious areas - it will stick to metal not filler. feel the paint. looked after paint will be totally smooth to the touch, anything too rough is neglected. every panel should be the same colour and shade - look carfully for different paints. open and shut the doors and bonnet and boot - they should work smoothly and there shouldn't be any movement in the hinges. a proper body inspection takes a good 20 minutes.

if you've not walked yet then jack the car up and crawl underneath. you're looking for rust again but also the inside of the tyres and general straightness of all mechanicals, there shouldn't be any ripples in any bit holding wheels on or any unsecured bits hanging down and flapping in the wind.

if it's solid underneath then re-pop the bonnet and look at the engine. it should be reasonably clean but don't expect miracles - there's not many that clean under there regularly. there shouldn't be loads of any fluid over anything though. check that the radiator contains water and no oil and that the dipstick and oil filler cap shows oil and no water. other fuilds should be at the correct level too. ask the owner when the coolant was last changed - m20 engines require this every 2 years without fail or they become porous. a puzzled look on the owner's face means they don't know their car too well.

now get in and start the car. this is tricky as when it fires you need to watch the oil light and the exhaust at the same time. the oil light must go out pretty near immediately. anything more than a second and there's oil pressure problems. the exhaust needs to not be blue or black or too plentiful. take you're metal bar and put one end against your ear and the other against all four corners of the engine in turn. you'll be amazed at how clearly you can hear what's going on. (beware of rotating bits and loose limbs/clothing) any ticks or thumps that sound wrong are wrong.

now's a good time to inspect the interior. the seats should be comfortable at least (if the owner hasn't sorted out a desparately uncomfortable drivers seat then have they looked after anything at all?) the seat and pedal wear should match the mileage. everything should work. ok maybe a couple of fripperies don't work but everything crucial should work. you'll be surprised at how much a replacement trim panel that's cracked will be. budget 150 for 1 worn out seat.

by this time the engine should have warmed up and not overheated. if this is so then take it for a 1/2 hour drive. the owner will probably insist on coming with you - that's fine but make sure that he shuts up and leaves the radio off coz you're listening to every noise it makes. drive it fast and slow and make sure it brakes in a straight line when no-one's behind you. make sure there's no strange noises when turning at full lock too.

when you get it back re-start it to ensure it starts from warm too. then check under the bonnet again to ensure no fluids have leaked out during your adventure.

pay particular attention to the tyres. 4 matching branded tyres in good nick with non-kerbed wheels tell as much of a story as 4 non-matching chinese jobs with either names you can't pronounce or can't read coz they've been rubbed off by constant kerbing. owners tell you a lot too. rough owners sell rough vehicles. a bloke that brags about 3rd gear wheelspins tharshes the pants off it. a woman may drive it gently but if she doesn't know where the bonnet release is she hasn't looked after it. look at the state of the house it's coming from, generally people look after everything or nothing. work in progress house is better than a neglected dump. my ideal car comes from a clued up middle-aged woman from a spotless house who's husband is a car fan and looks after it carefully. you'll be lucky to find this but they do exist.

if you're still interested coz it's straight, rust free and drives nicely then re-iterate the list of faults to the owner and have a good moan about how expensive spare parts and garage labour rates are then make a low but not insulting offer. if it's refused then walk away and wait 15 minutes before going back with an improved offer. make them sweat for a while and see how much you can get off.

finally only part with a deposit once satisfied that the owner of the car is who you're dealing with and the numbers stamped on the car match the log book you're being offered.

good luck. if it's local to me (hampshire) then i'm willing to come with you - 2 sets of eyes are better than 1 and i don't mind crawling about on my back inspecting cars (too much).

paul

[Karan]

wow nice one dude!

[placey]

karan

i'm off to get 9mm board for the builds this afternoon so you'll have pics soon. sorry for the delay.

paul

[frosted]

holy f*ck

that is without a doubt an award winning explanation and guide

MODS THIS SHOULD BE KEPT OR STICKED!

regards,

frosted

[Splondike]

Paul - another award worthy post mate

Mahmood there is a specific guide to Sports that I posted in this thread:

http://www.e30zone.co.uk/modules.php?na ... highlight=

Once simple piece of advice - Red ones are best

[Karan]

karan

i'm off to get 9mm board for the builds this afternoon so you'll have pics soon. sorry for the delay.

paul

As i said dude.... theres no rush!!! ur doin me a really big favour neway!

mucho mucho appreciated!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! if theres anything i can do for u lemme know!

Karan

[Geeman]

red ones are best...

*cough* Lachs Silver *cough*

[Splondike]

Paul - the only disappointing thing about your post is you left out the bit about going through the owners bins to see what sort of a person they are...

[Karan]

being a student dentist..... i find that checking their oral health is a much better option

[Jhonno]

Blimey Paul - that is an impressive checklist but so so true as well

This should be archived for sure

[placey]

splondike

well funny. i tried to find the old post on the old forum but failed.

over the coming days i'll expand on it a little more and submit it as a potential article. i'll mail adam about it now.

paul

[Karan]

Marks sport guide was pretty darn good too! someone should paste that on here!

[placey]

agreed. i've just read it and it's excellent.

[Splondike]

Cheers guys.

Nice one Paul thats will make a great article, I have shown a number of people and they have asked for a copy of it

[Mahmood]

Well, what can I say....

Placey - man, that was some meag advice and thanks for the offer to come and look at cars with me. BTW, I bought TBMW just to read about your ride. Sweet mate...nice subtle touches.

Anyway, I digress. I appreciated the time you all took to help me get myself a Sport. Damned hard to get one in Sterling Silver and not through lack of trying. Rest assured, there should be a Sport in my parking space by the end of the summer.

Will post pics up when I get my mitts on one.

Cheers again

[placey]

cheers beeem. good luck.

i spent 2 hours crawling all over mine and driving it before haggling, a similar story with the missus car too. i'm not quite so thorough for friends but i still get those that know me asking me to check out cars for them - i'd say that 7/8 from every 10 get the walk away treatment before i've finished inspecting the bodywork, some get it from 3 paces away.

finding a decent used car is not easy but doable with persistance and patience. to me it doeasn't matter whether a trader has it or a private owner just as long as it's been looked after. if it is with a trader it's worth asking if you can phone the previous owner there and then in front of him/her, most owners are happy to talk about cars they've had. if you're refused that what's being hidden?

all the above assumes you've found one that's worth setting off for. my tactics towards finding them in the first place are twofold: visit every new and used dealer within your travelling area and tell them what you're looking for, leaving contact details, printed on sheets is nice. dealers are happy coz they don't have to advertise any they have come in if they can sell it to you. especially your local new bmw dealership - hand out your printed sheets to every salesman as they're more likely than anyone to get a p/x. you may have to brazen it coz they can be a bit aloof but at least they'll remember you. (also worth asking that they don't valet it before you see it too). secondly get the local papers and autotrader etc as soon as you can when they hit the shops and read them and get on the phone early. good cars get snapped up quickly - so you have to be quick off the mark.

remember always simon13s words - use your head not your heart. buying a project becomes more tempting the longer you look but projects are rarely finished and require a mentality of their own - and usually a very understanding missus!

paul

p.s. i think it's nice and only good manners to make a note of every dealer you visit and when you've found your vehicle ring round or visit them again and let them know you're no longer looking. the more clued up ones really appreciate this.

[Mahmood]

Hi Placey

It's Sat. afternoon and I am in Moscow for a week in my hotel room listening to Motorhead singing 'Ace of Spades' on MTV and logging into the Zone...is that sad??? I should get out more I know, but it's baking out there at 26 degrees and 30 deg. tomorrow. Those of you who have seen me will realise that I don't exactly need a tan

Anyway, cheers mate, much apppreciated. If you're in my neck of the woods let me know as I'll buy you a drink.

Over and out...lots of things Russian to explore with it being Sat. night.

[placey]

e10 eh? i don't know where that is to be honest. the only place in london i visit is west ealing, anywhere close? i tend to walk around drooling at the talent up there. hmm come to think of it i do here as well.....

paul

[Mahmood]

placey - E10 is North East London. I am between Stratford and Walthamstow - famour for err E17 (band) and Walthamstow Dog Track. West Ealing is the other side of London and there's probably a higher level of talent there

I'm not that far from Chavdom; it's all around me! I'm gonna move into deepest Kent if I can get my way

[Kramer]

check everywhere for rust for if you can see it from the outside there'll be a load more behind it when you or somebody you're paying starts cutting it away. the sport in particluar requires bodykit removal for a proper rust evaluation

Sorry for responding to an old topic; but how easy is it to remove and replace the bodykit?

I see why it is important to check for rust underneath it but I don't imagine the owner will be glad of the hassle

[Kramer]

[keith52]

Not that simple i'm afraid . you won't break the panels but the clips become brittle especially at the bottom of the sills and the wing pods have a rivet if i remember correctly , It is important that you can check these areas and if not be aware there could be rust beneath