Steering linkages. Update to UJ build page 5
Moderator: martauto
-
DanThe
- E30 Zone Team Member
- Posts: 28640
- Joined: Sat Sep 10, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Staffs
- Contact:
Thanks guys,
pm sent muli
1. Daf - paid
2. ImysE30 - paid
3. Richis - deposit paid
4. hammoj28 - paid
5. Bob_S - paid
6. Pikanibbles - paid
7. Beardymat - paid
8. mike_sayer - deposit paid
9. gcs325i - paid
10. nickso - paid
11. Goosiegander - deposit paid
12. lloydp - paid
13. tomson x2 - paid
14. irish320i - paid
15. Winx - paid
16. Simon13 - paid
17. Stonesie - paid
18. si- - paid
19. e21jason - paid
20. boomer - paid
21. cplagz - paid
22. Muli - paid
pm sent muli
1. Daf - paid
2. ImysE30 - paid
3. Richis - deposit paid
4. hammoj28 - paid
5. Bob_S - paid
6. Pikanibbles - paid
7. Beardymat - paid
8. mike_sayer - deposit paid
9. gcs325i - paid
10. nickso - paid
11. Goosiegander - deposit paid
12. lloydp - paid
13. tomson x2 - paid
14. irish320i - paid
15. Winx - paid
16. Simon13 - paid
17. Stonesie - paid
18. si- - paid
19. e21jason - paid
20. boomer - paid
21. cplagz - paid
22. Muli - paid
Last edited by DanThe on Tue Dec 01, 2009 9:32 pm, edited 8 times in total.
-
mike_sayer
- E30 Zone Newbie
- Posts: 218
- Joined: Wed Feb 13, 2008 11:00 pm
- Location: Whitchurch
All paid Dan 
"And if you are clinically insane, by which I mean you wake up in the morning and think you are an onion, here's your car." - Clarkson
-
DanThe
- E30 Zone Team Member
- Posts: 28640
- Joined: Sat Sep 10, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Staffs
- Contact:
Thanks Mike, order has been made and hopefully we will have some produce by the end of next week 
1. Daf - paid
2. ImysE30 - paid
3. Richis - paid
4. hammoj28 - paid
5. Bob_S - paid
6. Pikanibbles - paid
7. Beardymat - paid
8. mike_sayer - paid
9. gcs325i - paid
10. nickso - paid
11. Goosiegander - deposit paid
12. lloydp - paid
13. tomson x2 - paid
14. irish320i - paid
15. Winx - paid
16. Simon13 - paid
17. Stonesie - paid
18. si- - paid
19. e21jason - paid
20. boomer - paid
21. cplagz - paid
22. Muli - paid
1. Daf - paid
2. ImysE30 - paid
3. Richis - paid
4. hammoj28 - paid
5. Bob_S - paid
6. Pikanibbles - paid
7. Beardymat - paid
8. mike_sayer - paid
9. gcs325i - paid
10. nickso - paid
11. Goosiegander - deposit paid
12. lloydp - paid
13. tomson x2 - paid
14. irish320i - paid
15. Winx - paid
16. Simon13 - paid
17. Stonesie - paid
18. si- - paid
19. e21jason - paid
20. boomer - paid
21. cplagz - paid
22. Muli - paid
-
DanThe
- E30 Zone Team Member
- Posts: 28640
- Joined: Sat Sep 10, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Staffs
- Contact:
Ok, here are a few pics of a UJ I knocked up earlier
The UJ consists of a cross shaped centre and 4 caps containing roller bearings, as you can see the caps are crimped into the alloy outer
So to separate the caps need to be removed, this one was easy, the dimple in the centre meant a hammer/punch could be used to push the caps out
Some dont have this dimple which makes it a bit more difficult, easiest way I found was to hold the UJ in the vice 'by hand' like so and hammer the alloy outer carefully until the cap moves out
The problem with all this hammering is the roller bearings tend to drop out, which is a PITA so make sure you either have something underneath to catch them or you have some spare UJ bits
Once the caps are out or nearly out you can remove the centre piece.
To refit the needed parts simply press the caps back in with the vice, to secure them I used a centre punch in 4 places on the edges of the alloy outer, you can just see it in this pic. The caps are held firmly enough anyway so you dont need to go mad trying to crimp then back in
This procedure needs to be carried out as the E30 column spline is different to the E34 UJ spline, so you will need to sacrifice an E30 steering linkage.
If you look at the UJ you will notice one half is longer than the other, I designed the linkage so the short halfs of the UJ's are clamped to the splined shaft to give maximum clearance, seen below, so keep this in mind when rebuilding your UJ's
You only need to rebuild the upper UJ, only other thing you need to do is put a 10mm drill through the bolt hole on the rack half to enable the bolt to pass
UPDATE
To add to this, ive been cutting the bearing caps out which is a lot easier, hammering them out can deform the caps, lose the rollers etc
The long half of your UJ will be unused anyway, so cut the caps out of this half like so -
Which ends in -
Next to the E30 top half -
And pressing back in -
If you are using second hand UJ's dont be tempted to chuck a load of grease in, this will cause the bearing to hydraulic and usually feel notchy, just a tiny amount is needed, put it on the rollers then put the cap back on the centre and turn it by hand to spread the grease out and stop the rollers dropping out when you refit
The UJ consists of a cross shaped centre and 4 caps containing roller bearings, as you can see the caps are crimped into the alloy outer
So to separate the caps need to be removed, this one was easy, the dimple in the centre meant a hammer/punch could be used to push the caps out
Some dont have this dimple which makes it a bit more difficult, easiest way I found was to hold the UJ in the vice 'by hand' like so and hammer the alloy outer carefully until the cap moves out
The problem with all this hammering is the roller bearings tend to drop out, which is a PITA so make sure you either have something underneath to catch them or you have some spare UJ bits
Once the caps are out or nearly out you can remove the centre piece.
To refit the needed parts simply press the caps back in with the vice, to secure them I used a centre punch in 4 places on the edges of the alloy outer, you can just see it in this pic. The caps are held firmly enough anyway so you dont need to go mad trying to crimp then back in
This procedure needs to be carried out as the E30 column spline is different to the E34 UJ spline, so you will need to sacrifice an E30 steering linkage.
If you look at the UJ you will notice one half is longer than the other, I designed the linkage so the short halfs of the UJ's are clamped to the splined shaft to give maximum clearance, seen below, so keep this in mind when rebuilding your UJ's
You only need to rebuild the upper UJ, only other thing you need to do is put a 10mm drill through the bolt hole on the rack half to enable the bolt to pass
UPDATE
To add to this, ive been cutting the bearing caps out which is a lot easier, hammering them out can deform the caps, lose the rollers etc
The long half of your UJ will be unused anyway, so cut the caps out of this half like so -
Which ends in -
Next to the E30 top half -
And pressing back in -
If you are using second hand UJ's dont be tempted to chuck a load of grease in, this will cause the bearing to hydraulic and usually feel notchy, just a tiny amount is needed, put it on the rollers then put the cap back on the centre and turn it by hand to spread the grease out and stop the rollers dropping out when you refit
Last edited by DanThe on Tue May 22, 2012 9:45 pm, edited 1 time in total.
I was trying to work out what to do also, so here's what I did.booomer wrote:Ah cool, i had a quick go at banging the caps out earlier and they would not budge is it a case of banging them towards the centre of the UJ or try and extract them away from the UJ?
Close the vice jaws enough to lay the top half flat, put a socket over the UJ (make sure its bigger then the cap), slap a block of wood over the top of the socket and belt away.
-
gareth
- E30 Zone Team Member
- Posts: 11009
- Joined: Tue Jan 11, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: hastings, east sussex
is there likely to be any 'spares' on this batch?
only i've just decided that i should get myself a Z3 rack. at present i have a few mm of clearance so it'll be, err, tight
only i've just decided that i should get myself a Z3 rack. at present i have a few mm of clearance so it'll be, err, tight
Sole founder of Fe2O3-12V it's a lifestyle
LSD rebuilding / modification services provided, PM for details
LSD rebuilding / modification services provided, PM for details
Ok, so i have got the relevant parts all in pieces but they are filthy dirty so i'm going to give them a good de-grease and scrub. any recomendations on which grease to put in the bearings when i re-build them? does it even matter?
cheers
cheers
Just finished re-building the Uj and what a PITA it was. Did anyone else have difficulty with "notchyness" when the bearing caps were pressed back in? i found the only thing i could do was re-build it with less of the roller bearings inside. Its still not 100% but its staying like it!