'The Old Hound' 1986 Tech 1
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- Kos
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some inspiration for you coming up
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E30BeemerLad
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Not clocked this thread before, fair play to you for rolling with the punches
- Kos
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my e30 m3

inner flitch

under fuse box

and from the top

bulkhead

and rust the same place yours has gone

cut out

repaired, its doent have to be pretty but we did grind it back after

"jacking" point before & after



battery tray
[/URL]
cleaned up
[/URL]
one of the chassis legs had evidence of previous very poor repair


basically the whole front end was fubard so we just cut it out
[/URL]

everything from the scuttle forward is new

some of my panels being preped


new battery tray and bulk head welding

some strengthening of the turrets

all built up on a jig



inner flitch

under fuse box

and from the top

bulkhead

and rust the same place yours has gone

cut out

repaired, its doent have to be pretty but we did grind it back after

"jacking" point before & after



battery tray
[/URL]cleaned up
[/URL]one of the chassis legs had evidence of previous very poor repair


basically the whole front end was fubard so we just cut it out
[/URL]
everything from the scuttle forward is new

some of my panels being preped


new battery tray and bulk head welding

some strengthening of the turrets

all built up on a jig


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lyricalnut02
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nice work kos, get stuck in bab
325i Sport Tech 1 - R.I.P
E30 addict.
E30 addict.
i have no idea- but if you provide the paper work, bmw will probably/possibly sell you a new panel with the number stamped ? would be worth paying if they dobab-91 wrote:[ Also new scuttle panels are stamped differently so will be cutting my stamp off and fitting it to the new one.
- Kos
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jesus its a long story with this car, i still have it but i needs finishing
too many other distractions over the last few years
too many other distractions over the last few years
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- Kos
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thats the scuttle
there is no repair panel for that rusty section as it part of the mail shell/monocoque
current state is the shell is done, i have lots of nice parts for it including bilstein grp N coilovers, brembo brakes etc
need to decide what donk to but into it, paint it and fit it up
sounds easy but its not
there is no repair panel for that rusty section as it part of the mail shell/monocoque
current state is the shell is done, i have lots of nice parts for it including bilstein grp N coilovers, brembo brakes etc
need to decide what donk to but into it, paint it and fit it up
sounds easy but its not
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- Kos
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yep, the would and put on the chassis no & shell no
the right parts people know how to do it all. i've ordered 3 in my life time, last one was £40
the right parts people know how to do it all. i've ordered 3 in my life time, last one was £40
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lyricalnut02
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kos what happened to the s14 that came with the m3?
325i Sport Tech 1 - R.I.P
E30 addict.
E30 addict.
- Kos
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no idea, when Dips got it i had an M30 in it with some genuine B6S bits
he had it turbo'd and after i got it off him i blew it up and when i took it apart i soon realised it was pretty bad, so i embarked on journey to restore the shell and one day i'll figure out what i'll do with it
its a 100% rust free shell, 100% straight and legit with history and paperpwork and i'd entertain sensible offers for it with or with out suspension
failing that, i'll build it up and use it
he had it turbo'd and after i got it off him i blew it up and when i took it apart i soon realised it was pretty bad, so i embarked on journey to restore the shell and one day i'll figure out what i'll do with it
its a 100% rust free shell, 100% straight and legit with history and paperpwork and i'd entertain sensible offers for it with or with out suspension
failing that, i'll build it up and use it
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i thought the $58 real oem price looked cheap, but thats super ! there you go bab, much better and easier than cutting your one and welding in anotherKos wrote:yep, the would and put on the chassis no & shell no
the right parts people know how to do it all. i've ordered 3 in my life time, last one was £40
- Kos
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the scuttle needs to be cut and welded
the internal bit needs fabrication
the internal bit needs fabrication
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pacerpete
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Be aware that the replacement scuttle generally comes with a stamped VIN that looks like it was done by Stevie Wonder after too many rocks !
The preferred move is to use both outer sections and join it through the scuttle grille aperture , thus retaining your original VIN stamping.
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bab-91
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Kos wrote:some inspiration for you coming up
Nice work Kos, what way did you prep the new panels?
polsta wrote:would bmw stamp it for him ?
It's stamped but the format of the stamp is different. I plan to retain the orginal vin. Thats what I meant by this.
bab-91 wrote: Also new scuttle panels are stamped differently so will be cutting my stamp off and fitting it to the new one. Sure what else would I do with my time.....
Yip that's what I've heard & planned to do. Any joy with the Iphone?pacerpete wrote:Be aware that the replacement scuttle generally comes with a stamped VIN that looks like it was done by Stevie Wonder after too many rocks !The preferred move is to use both outer sections and join it through the scuttle grille aperture , thus retaining your original VIN stamping.
- Kos
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I've been pretty lucky with the vin no's that I've had stamped they were not too bad
As far as prep goes, edges that would see a welder were ground back to metal and had copper primer put on to them. The guys that did it were spot on, it wasn't cheap but it was done properly
As far as prep goes, edges that would see a welder were ground back to metal and had copper primer put on to them. The guys that did it were spot on, it wasn't cheap but it was done properly
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bab-91
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The body work will be done as well as humanly possible... hopefully.
Only thing holding me back from doing things id like, is location. No acid dipping or plastic media blasting this side of the water
I have all new glass coming, interior will be like new, so the fact I can't go that extra mile with the shell is annoying my happiness.
Only thing holding me back from doing things id like, is location. No acid dipping or plastic media blasting this side of the water
I have all new glass coming, interior will be like new, so the fact I can't go that extra mile with the shell is annoying my happiness.
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bab-91
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I thought it was about time to put Polsta's houndstooth fetish in its place.
10 meters of new unstained (ish) houndstooth.

10 meters of new unstained (ish) houndstooth.

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bab-91
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Not much progress with the old hound recently. As you can see from the above picture the recaro's are in the middle of being done, so hopefully be able to show the finished article soon!
I've been somewhat quiet because I've been in the middle of a dispute with Westtrading. I cannot stress this enough, under no circumstances deal with this company!!
I initially got in touch with them asking them to match bolster cloth for the recaro LS's. They replied they do not deal with the public unless they are VAT registered. Fair enough, I got a VAT number to 'piggy back' on.
I then got back in touch with them and they told me to send a sample. I emailed them back to say "I could send them a full bolster but THEY MUST RETURN IT AS IT IS FROM A COMPLETE SET WHICH I WOULD LIKE TO KEEP THAT WAY!"
They agreed. All was fine, other than there was up to a 4 week gap in replys.
I waited 4 months for samples and when they did send me a sample. It was black cloth from a Hyundai Pony.
The quality of the material was also suspect, so replied to say, this material was no where near a match. After various emails they said it was the best they could do.
I had also ordered 3 meters of green houndstooth and 3 meters of an other material for an e28 for a fellow zoner.
So emailed them: send the above materials and my bolster.
They then informed me they had lost the bolster & it is not there policy to compensate for lost items.
So after months of dealing with these Dyke digging, clog wearing cu*ts I was no closer with my own seats and very tempted to tell them to keep the other cloth because I can't face giving them money!
I've been somewhat quiet because I've been in the middle of a dispute with Westtrading. I cannot stress this enough, under no circumstances deal with this company!!
I initially got in touch with them asking them to match bolster cloth for the recaro LS's. They replied they do not deal with the public unless they are VAT registered. Fair enough, I got a VAT number to 'piggy back' on.
I then got back in touch with them and they told me to send a sample. I emailed them back to say "I could send them a full bolster but THEY MUST RETURN IT AS IT IS FROM A COMPLETE SET WHICH I WOULD LIKE TO KEEP THAT WAY!"
They agreed. All was fine, other than there was up to a 4 week gap in replys.
I waited 4 months for samples and when they did send me a sample. It was black cloth from a Hyundai Pony.
The quality of the material was also suspect, so replied to say, this material was no where near a match. After various emails they said it was the best they could do.
I had also ordered 3 meters of green houndstooth and 3 meters of an other material for an e28 for a fellow zoner.
So emailed them: send the above materials and my bolster.
They then informed me they had lost the bolster & it is not there policy to compensate for lost items.
So after months of dealing with these Dyke digging, clog wearing cu*ts I was no closer with my own seats and very tempted to tell them to keep the other cloth because I can't face giving them money!
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ANDY325TOURING
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Arse.
oh no, now you've done itbab-91 wrote:I thought it was about time to put Polsta's houndstooth fetish in its place.
10 meters of new unstained (ish) houndstooth.

E30 Parts Galore!! 07901 888019
[quote="bss325i"]
Get a f* grip,we are talking about 20+yr.old sub £10k cars here,NOT the crown jewels!
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bab-91
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I'm starting the bodywork on the tech one in the next few weeks. Picked up a rotisserie from Jozi so things are moving slowly.
The car is going for Soda blasting and the chap doing the blasting said he would recommend the arches being cut out and blasting the exposed area but others have said that's an awful idea. So I don't know which to do?
The car is going for Soda blasting and the chap doing the blasting said he would recommend the arches being cut out and blasting the exposed area but others have said that's an awful idea. So I don't know which to do?
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Gert_8
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Take plenty of pics whatever you decide to do Bab. 

PONY, 2013 - "Anyway span 360 degrees hitting the kerb and giving the old man two fingers as I was spinning like Michael Schumacher would
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jimbom30cab
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be careful with the sand blaster, if i had blasted my tech1 there wouldn't be much left !
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bab-91
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pacerpete wrote:Gert_8 wrote:Take plenty of pics whatever you decide to do Bab.
This ! Rust and bodge pics needed !
The rust & bodge pics are a few pages back... you 'orrible cu**s!
It's Soda blasting Jim so it shouldn't be as aggressive as sand blasting.... although that said, I don't think much will come back
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pacerpete
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bab-91 wrote:pacerpete wrote:Gert_8 wrote:Take plenty of pics whatever you decide to do Bab.
This ! Rust and bodge pics needed !
The rust & bodge pics are a few pages back... you 'orrible cu**s!
It's Soda blasting Jim so it shouldn't be as aggressive as sand blasting.... although that said, I don't think much will come back
There will be more, trust me !
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bab-91
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What lurks beneath eh? Positive thoughts!
So nobody has an opinion on whether to Soda blast the car with the arches removed?
So nobody has an opinion on whether to Soda blast the car with the arches removed?
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Well you probably don't want to leave them on
My guess is - if your soda blasting the whole car 100% fully stripped to bare shell on a big spinning stick- you need to be asking yourself how fast is it going to move ? Ie all the welding and priming and sealant to have it ready for paint- you can't leave a bare metal shell hanging about for weeks or months/years in a bare blasted metal with no primer state
To me it sounds like you need to get the arches and other major rust cut out and all done and welded in aswell as any major panel work, then temp primed, then blast the shell and rinse and treat (or whatever the process is) and prime it all in a completed sense as fast as possible, at a guess
My guess is - if your soda blasting the whole car 100% fully stripped to bare shell on a big spinning stick- you need to be asking yourself how fast is it going to move ? Ie all the welding and priming and sealant to have it ready for paint- you can't leave a bare metal shell hanging about for weeks or months/years in a bare blasted metal with no primer state
To me it sounds like you need to get the arches and other major rust cut out and all done and welded in aswell as any major panel work, then temp primed, then blast the shell and rinse and treat (or whatever the process is) and prime it all in a completed sense as fast as possible, at a guess
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bab-91
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Rotisserie (spinning stick
) - Check
Primer layer - Check
The question was more to do with is it a good idea to soda blast the car after the arches are removed. A few Mk1 & Mk2 escort types have said its a terrible idea because the soda would promote rust in that area?
Whereas the chap doing soda blasting recommends it... so I'm at a crossroads!
Primer layer - Check
The question was more to do with is it a good idea to soda blast the car after the arches are removed. A few Mk1 & Mk2 escort types have said its a terrible idea because the soda would promote rust in that area?
Whereas the chap doing soda blasting recommends it... so I'm at a crossroads!
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Gert_8
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Go with your man - getting his recommendation in writing. Then sue if you get rust.bab-91 wrote:Rotisserie (spinning stick) - Check
Primer layer - Check
The question was more to do with is it a good idea to soda blast the car after the arches are removed. A few Mk1 & Mk2 escort types have said its a terrible idea because the soda would promote rust in that area?
Whereas the chap doing soda blasting recommends it... so I'm at a crossroads!

PONY, 2013 - "Anyway span 360 degrees hitting the kerb and giving the old man two fingers as I was spinning like Michael Schumacher would
whats the exact process your thinking ?
are you dipping it after ? then the various other coatings, its major work to do a car like this and more so with the rust issues you have and will find, you cant leave it hanging around in bare metal state for long once its blasted, then it sounds wierd to blast, prime, then start welding, unless its going back to be dipped ? , to really do a proper job the shell needs to be 100% finished and solid then to be dipped and treated and coated as a finished shell, its a big big job for a professional with a lot of expirience and a phenominal amount of cash, personly id go buy an m3 with the money it will all cost
are you dipping it after ? then the various other coatings, its major work to do a car like this and more so with the rust issues you have and will find, you cant leave it hanging around in bare metal state for long once its blasted, then it sounds wierd to blast, prime, then start welding, unless its going back to be dipped ? , to really do a proper job the shell needs to be 100% finished and solid then to be dipped and treated and coated as a finished shell, its a big big job for a professional with a lot of expirience and a phenominal amount of cash, personly id go buy an m3 with the money it will all cost
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No, shell should be dipped to see the full extent of the damage, then repaired and then be taken back to coated
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