I've jsut picked up a new set of front strut top mount/bearings from GSF.
There doesn't seem to anything in the Wiki about fitting these (unless I've missed it) or in the Haynes.
Any advice gratefully accepted before I get the spanners out.
Thanks in advance
Fitting new strut top mounts - advice
Moderator: martauto
-
greg124
- E30 Zone Regular

- Posts: 668
- Joined: Tue Apr 03, 2007 11:00 pm
- Location: In the pub
Schadenfreude - the German's haven't got a word for that.
-
bigwinn
- E30 Zone Squatter

- Posts: 1832
- Joined: Wed May 05, 2010 11:00 pm
- Location: Lincolnshire/Leicestershire border
just from my experience- make sure GSF gave you the right ones... they have had stock of some that have either been e36 or have the studs in the wrong places- very annoying once you have dropped the struts out, springs off, replaced top mounts then cant get them to marry up.....

Bronzit gone- she lives on
'89 325i auto touring: Malachite Green
Now, I'm no gynecologist, but I know a tw4t when I see one...
'89 325i auto touring: Malachite Green
Now, I'm no gynecologist, but I know a tw4t when I see one...
-
capnmchl
- E30 Zone Camper

- Posts: 1141
- Joined: Mon Feb 20, 2012 11:00 pm
- Location: Exeter, Devon
Slacken off wheel bolts
Jack car up
Take wheel off
Unclip brake hose from strut
Undo disk retaining bolt
Take brake caliper carrier with caliper attached off, hang up somewhere.
Take disc off
Undo track rod end ball joint
Undo bottom wishbone ball joint
Undo 3 nuts under bonnet holding strut on
Compress spring
Undo shock nut
Change top mount
Refit is the reverse of removal.
The only thing I'd suggest is getting a decent ball joint splitter. One which you screw together, rather than just a fork.
Jack car up
Take wheel off
Unclip brake hose from strut
Undo disk retaining bolt
Take brake caliper carrier with caliper attached off, hang up somewhere.
Take disc off
Undo track rod end ball joint
Undo bottom wishbone ball joint
Undo 3 nuts under bonnet holding strut on
Compress spring
Undo shock nut
Change top mount
Refit is the reverse of removal.
The only thing I'd suggest is getting a decent ball joint splitter. One which you screw together, rather than just a fork.
-
Jim320i
- E30 Zone News / COTM Team

- Posts: 10627
- Joined: Sun Oct 25, 2009 11:00 pm
- Location: Leicestershire
I would loosen the shock nut first before even removing the wheels, just loosen them off. It will save ALOT of faffing about later on unless you have air tools...capnmchl wrote:Slacken off wheel bolts
Jack car up
Take wheel off
Unclip brake hose from strut
Undo disk retaining bolt
Take brake caliper carrier with caliper attached off, hang up somewhere.
Take disc off
Undo track rod end ball joint
Undo bottom wishbone ball joint
Undo 3 nuts under bonnet holding strut on
Compress spring
Undo shock nut
Change top mount
Refit is the reverse of removal.
The only thing I'd suggest is getting a decent ball joint splitter. One which you screw together, rather than just a fork.
-
capnmchl
- E30 Zone Camper

- Posts: 1141
- Joined: Mon Feb 20, 2012 11:00 pm
- Location: Exeter, Devon
Very true actually. Still in fully equipped garage mode.
-
mcbonio
- E30 Zone Squatter

- Posts: 1868
- Joined: Sun Feb 12, 2012 11:00 pm
Also give the threads on the tie rod ball joint and wishbone ball joint a clean up with wd40 and a wire brush so when you come to take the nuts off they don't get stuck on old rusty threads like mine did.! Had to cut the nuts off in the end and replace them.
-
Topblag
- Old Skooler

- Posts: 7095
- Joined: Wed Jul 30, 2008 11:00 pm
- Location: Fife - You got a problem with that ?
key point, as above, is to loosen the shock nut whilst the wheels are on the ground.
I don't bother taking the disc off but it makes sense, less weight to move around when the whole strut comes out.
Remember, track rod end ball joint doesn't need a splitter. I've been advised to remove the nut and clout it with a hammer and it'll loosen itself. It works for me.
Finally, be careful with ball joint splitters, when the splitter takes the strain, don't keep tightening the bolt on it, just give the area a bang with a hammer and it'll pop. I've gone through two ball joint splitters (scissors) thinking they were duff and it was down to me !
I don't bother taking the disc off but it makes sense, less weight to move around when the whole strut comes out.
Remember, track rod end ball joint doesn't need a splitter. I've been advised to remove the nut and clout it with a hammer and it'll loosen itself. It works for me.
Finally, be careful with ball joint splitters, when the splitter takes the strain, don't keep tightening the bolt on it, just give the area a bang with a hammer and it'll pop. I've gone through two ball joint splitters (scissors) thinking they were duff and it was down to me !
1990 325i Cab auto in Alpine White II
1988 Alpina C2.5 moredoor in Black, 71k
1990 325ix, moredoor auto in Laser Blue. 51k
1984 Hartge H35 in Black
2004 996 C4S in Silver 43k manual
2006 Audi S6 V10 in Black 58k
1988 Alpina C2.5 moredoor in Black, 71k
1990 325ix, moredoor auto in Laser Blue. 51k
1984 Hartge H35 in Black
2004 996 C4S in Silver 43k manual
2006 Audi S6 V10 in Black 58k
-
capnmchl
- E30 Zone Camper

- Posts: 1141
- Joined: Mon Feb 20, 2012 11:00 pm
- Location: Exeter, Devon
Taking is the disc off is just to save lugging extra weight.
I agree about not needing ball joint splitters. I've only had to use one once. Mostly I go at them with a hammer, but most people seem to tickle a car with a hammer rather than hit it hard, and it's also hard to get a good swing whilst working on the floor.
I agree about not needing ball joint splitters. I've only had to use one once. Mostly I go at them with a hammer, but most people seem to tickle a car with a hammer rather than hit it hard, and it's also hard to get a good swing whilst working on the floor.
-
greg124
- E30 Zone Regular

- Posts: 668
- Joined: Tue Apr 03, 2007 11:00 pm
- Location: In the pub
Thanks guys. Sound like I'm going to be busy on Saturday.
Just one question. The rubber bit that presses into the top of the strut is tapered, and the wide end goes in first - a bar-steward to fit? Special tools? Tips?
Just one question. The rubber bit that presses into the top of the strut is tapered, and the wide end goes in first - a bar-steward to fit? Special tools? Tips?
Schadenfreude - the German's haven't got a word for that.
-
daimlerman
- **BANNED**
- Posts: 15968
- Joined: Mon Feb 27, 2006 11:00 pm
- Location: Grumpy Old Man
Never,ever,had a problem here.greg124 wrote:
Just one question. The rubber bit that presses into the top of the strut is tapered, and the wide end goes in first - a bar-steward to fit? Special tools? Tips?
With the compressed spring sat on the strut,I just drop the other bits onto the top and de-compress the spring evenly,making sure that the spring settles properly into the spring cup thingys.
-
G-Bear
- E30 Zone Squatter

- Posts: 1631
- Joined: Wed Mar 12, 2008 11:00 pm
- Location: Hertfordshire
Is there any reason not use a splitter, other than the cost of one if you don't already own one... I've always used them in the past..Topblag wrote:
Remember, track rod end ball joint doesn't need a splitter. I've been advised to remove the nut and clout it with a hammer and it'll loosen itself. It works for me.
Good luck for saturday greg
