Stock camber front and rear
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Jozi
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Am I right in saying these value's are correct for camber:
Front: 1deg 10min
Rear: 2deg 30min
Both for a car with mtec springs.
If I lower the car a bit should I be aiming for the same value's? Or get it within spec at normal ride heights? I've got camber/toe plates on the rear beam and adjustable top mounts up front.
Front: 1deg 10min
Rear: 2deg 30min
Both for a car with mtec springs.
If I lower the car a bit should I be aiming for the same value's? Or get it within spec at normal ride heights? I've got camber/toe plates on the rear beam and adjustable top mounts up front.
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Jozi
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Nobody then?
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Grrrmachine
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I had my geometry done a year ago and the rear tolerances were:
Camber tolerance is -2.30 to -1.30
Toe tolerance is -0.04 to 0.26
I've no idea about lowering though. I never got any answers when I asked about suspension either
Camber tolerance is -2.30 to -1.30
Toe tolerance is -0.04 to 0.26
I've no idea about lowering though. I never got any answers when I asked about suspension either
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Jozi
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Are those figures for front and rear? I've searched a little but couldn't find anything definitive, I'll try to keep it factory at which ever ride height I'll have unless there are better figures (for a road car)?
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DanThe
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Im not 100% but im sure 1.5 neg camber at the rear is whats recommended, id go for parallel rear wheels on a road car
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HairyScreech
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-1.5 is a figure recommended for a lot of road stuff.
-1.3 to -2.3 sounds like a lot of camber for a standard car to be running though, however the metc springs will wind a bit more than normal on at the rear.
-1.3 to -2.3 sounds like a lot of camber for a standard car to be running though, however the metc springs will wind a bit more than normal on at the rear.
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Jozi
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Parallel as in perpendicular to the road or parallel with the car for 0 toe?DanThe wrote: id go for parallel rear wheels on a road car
I'll aim for 1.5 deg camber on the rear at ride height.
Now to hope my wheels will fit with camber set to that and no arch rolling is required!
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DanThe
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Ive not measured my rear camber, just adjusted it out as much as possible to keep the tyre off the great big fooking chromie arch 
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Jozi
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This is where I'm at with a little camber as possible

I can't find pics with the arches rolled a little but it goes up another bit more, goes up even further with loads of camber.
Do chromies not have a bit more room because of the higher arches?

I can't find pics with the arches rolled a little but it goes up another bit more, goes up even further with loads of camber.
Do chromies not have a bit more room because of the higher arches?
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DanThe
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No, the chroime arch is a 90° fold all the way round, facelift arch folds back on itself at the top part which gives more tyre clearance
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Jozi
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You could roll them a little and create a little more room?
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kam-325i
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My facelift had the 90° fold all round the wheel arch, i cut it off because its a right shit trap....DanThe wrote:No, the chroime arch is a 90° fold all the way round, facelift arch folds back on itself at the top part which gives more tyre clearance
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DanThe
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Must have had replacement arches?
I would roll mine Jozi but they are like new, if I split the paint I would probably cut my wrists
I would roll mine Jozi but they are like new, if I split the paint I would probably cut my wrists
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kam-325i
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nah, definatly original, in the process of replacing the inner arch's now...DanThe wrote:Must have had replacement arches?
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Jozi
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I thought you might say thatDanThe wrote: I would roll mine Jozi but they are like new, if I split the paint I would probably cut my wrists
Both my tourings had the lip folded at the top, I put it down to previous owners running wheels that were to wide.
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DanThe
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All facelifts have the double fold at the top of the arch, thats what I was getting at

