I think my handbrake is too tight...
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My handbrake only clicks 1-2 times before engaging, the car also loses 60bhp in transmission losses...I'm thinking the two may be related!
Didn't think much of such a short handbrake travel when I got it, but now it seems likely the huge loss is being caused by it!
How do I slacken it off/check it.
Didn't think much of such a short handbrake travel when I got it, but now it seems likely the huge loss is being caused by it!
How do I slacken it off/check it.
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the hand brake should be fine mate, rolling road session was done way before the rear brakes were changed.
how is the car any way ?? when you want to bring it back down to get the paint done , i need my NOS kit back , i want to use it on my 1.8 auto touring LoL !
how is the car any way ?? when you want to bring it back down to get the paint done , i need my NOS kit back , i want to use it on my 1.8 auto touring LoL !
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- Kos
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no it was done properly, screw driver through the hub !Chris-W wrote:I would imagine that the two 10mm nuts on the handbrake cables at the lever end have been tightened to 'adjust' the handbrake, rather than the actual adjusters in the hub. Slacken the two nuts off and then check the proper adjusters.
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Which you have to do by lining up the hole in the rear brake disc hubs with the adjuster and then turning it with summut like a screwdriver through the hole - bit of a painChris-W wrote:I would imagine that the two 10mm nuts on the handbrake cables at the lever end have been tightened to 'adjust' the handbrake, rather than the actual adjusters in the hub. Slacken the two nuts off and then check the proper adjusters.
Cheers,
Robin

Robin

- Kos
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indeed it is, click move click move click move click move click move click move click move !!!!Lordschleife wrote:Which you have to do by lining up the hole in the rear brake disc hubs with the adjuster and then turning it with summut like a screwdriver through the hole - bit of a painChris-W wrote:I would imagine that the two 10mm nuts on the handbrake cables at the lever end have been tightened to 'adjust' the handbrake, rather than the actual adjusters in the hub. Slacken the two nuts off and then check the proper adjusters.

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I hope it is too tight, otherwise I'm into more complex reasons for such a high transmission loss!
Bodywork wise, I need to get my motorbike back first...can't be without transport! Should hopefully get it back next month or april at the latest.
Bodywork wise, I need to get my motorbike back first...can't be without transport! Should hopefully get it back next month or april at the latest.
- Brianmoooore
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If the handbrake lever is down, there should be no tension ( and no slack, either ) in the handbrake cables. I.e. The expander in the hub should be fully closed.
60 HP disappearing into the rear brakes, and they would be white hot.
60 HP disappearing into the rear brakes, and they would be white hot.
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How do you get to the 60hp figure? I thought transmission losses on a dyno were an estimated percentage?
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Jack both sides up and spin both wheels, otherwise a/the limited slip diff will confuse you! Make sure it is in neutral (and possibly chocked..)dips346 wrote:just jack it up and spin the wheel
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The 60bhp is indeed an estimate....the car was measured as putting just over 100bhp to the rear wheels, the run down measurement estimates the flywheel power as 155-160bhp. That means it's losing 35-40% of it's power to the transmission, whereas I'd expect it to be closer to 25-30%.
I've just jacked it up, but I don't know exactly how hard it is supposed to be to spin the rear wheel by hand! I can do the front ones with one finger, and they keep going for about 30s after a single push with one hand. The rear ones stop as soon as you let go of them, with a distinctive 'tssssiing!' sound eminating from the brakes (sounds more like sticking discs than drums TBH!). Obviously the rears are going to be harder to turn 'cause they're connected to the drivetrain, but how much harder?
I've just jacked it up, but I don't know exactly how hard it is supposed to be to spin the rear wheel by hand! I can do the front ones with one finger, and they keep going for about 30s after a single push with one hand. The rear ones stop as soon as you let go of them, with a distinctive 'tssssiing!' sound eminating from the brakes (sounds more like sticking discs than drums TBH!). Obviously the rears are going to be harder to turn 'cause they're connected to the drivetrain, but how much harder?
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No, I just had a quick shufty when I got home from work...gonna leave it to the weekend.
Cable wise though, the lever doesn't feel like it's doing any tensioning until after the first click.
Cable wise though, the lever doesn't feel like it's doing any tensioning until after the first click.
Last edited by MrDazzle on Wed Feb 21, 2007 5:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- Kos
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no worries !!MrDazzle wrote: Bodywork wise, I need to get my motorbike back first...can't be without transport! Should hopefully get it back next month or april at the latest.
it will be nice to see how much power is gained at the wheels with a new fly wheel ??
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I can tell you the answer to that...none! A flyhweel won't make any difference to peak power output.
Sadly it's on hold for the mo', moving into an unfurnished flat and I need a table mroe than I need a flywheel! Gonna get a flywheel, BBTB and rebuilt 4.1 LSD eventually (i.e. current diff with LSD internals), then get it remapped again.
EDIT: Reckon that'll be enough to get it into the 15's on a 1/4 mile:D
Sadly it's on hold for the mo', moving into an unfurnished flat and I need a table mroe than I need a flywheel! Gonna get a flywheel, BBTB and rebuilt 4.1 LSD eventually (i.e. current diff with LSD internals), then get it remapped again.
EDIT: Reckon that'll be enough to get it into the 15's on a 1/4 mile:D
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sam325is wrote:anyone got some pics of this adjuster or is it hard to see? i assume you have to remove rear discs to gain acces to adjust it.
my handbrake works but i would like it to be a little tighter

Don't take the disc off - it is the handbrake drum. You can even do it with the wheel on by removing one stud. Adjuster is at approx 12 o'clock.
- Brianmoooore
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I have a very small lamp bulb soldered to a pair of twisted wires, which I push in through the adjacent wheel bolt hole. Makes adjustment much easier if it's all lit up inside the drum.
Make sure the handbrake cables are slack before adjusting the brakes. Backing off the nuts on the handbrake lever is a good idea, just to be sure.
Make sure the handbrake cables are slack before adjusting the brakes. Backing off the nuts on the handbrake lever is a good idea, just to be sure.
- Brianmoooore
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The opposite way from which you first try usually! You can see if it's getting longer or shorter.