Difference between revisions of "Fitting E34 Brakes"

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(New page: If you've dramatically increased your engine's power, either by an engine swap or Forced Induction, then you're going to need some bigger Brakes. This guide walks...)
 
 
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If you've dramatically increased your engine's power, either by an [[Engine_Swaps|engine swap]] or [[Forced Induction]], then you're going to need some bigger [[Brakes]].
 
If you've dramatically increased your engine's power, either by an [[Engine_Swaps|engine swap]] or [[Forced Induction]], then you're going to need some bigger [[Brakes]].
  
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This guide walks you through fitting [[E34]] calipers together with an [[E32]] servo and master cylinder. The standard E30 master cylinder is not big enough for the E34 calipers.
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This guide walks you through fitting [[E34]] front calipers. We also recommend following the sister article about [[Fitting_E32_Master_Cylinder|fitting an E32 servo and master cylinder]]. The standard E30 master cylinder is not big enough for the E34 calipers.
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[[Image:Installed.JPG|right|300px]]
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This is '''not''' a bolt-on process. Some fabrication and custom parts are required to fit everything together.
 
__TOC__
 
__TOC__
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=Parts=
 
=Parts=
  
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Front and rear calipers from an E34
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*E34 540i Front calipers, Carriers, bolts, clips
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Caliper adapter brackets
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*Audi TT MK1 312x25mm vented front discs x2
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Audi 312mm discs
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*E34 540i Brake pads (your choice, I chose brembo OE)
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*Caliper adapters
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*M12x40 Nylock nut and bolts x8 (ebay)
  
 
=Tools=
 
=Tools=
  
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Die
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*13mm brake pipe spanner
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*17mm spanner
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*Allen key set
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=Procedure=
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*Hammer
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After a lot of messing about with grinders, burrs and drilling discs to fit, I decided to go with something tried and tested
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*Jack and jack stands (or post-lift if you're a flash git)
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BMW E34 540i calipers front and rear
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*Grinder with discs
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Scored the front brackets first all the way from germany
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*Drill and steel drill bits (up to 12mm)
  
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E34Brakes001
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=Preparation=
  
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These were designed to be used with the above caliper and an audi 312mm disc
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Loosen the front wheel nuts on each side, then jack the car up using the appropriate [[Jacking Points]] and secure it on jack stands. Remove the wheels and place them under the car for safety.
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Picture from google to compare the calipers
 
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E34Brakes002 (download new version)
 
  
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Difference between stock e30 disc and audi one
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Next crack off the brake hoses going into the front calipers. Undo the caliper carrier bolts (17mm), remove the entire caliper assembly from the disc, and rotate it multiple times to get the brake hose out.
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E34Brakes003
 
  
 +
Take the appropriate sized Allen key and undo the brake disc retaining bolt. With that off, the brake disc should wiggle off the hub. A few clouts with a hammer from behind can help.
  
 +
You should now have a bare naked hub to attach your new brakes to.
  
 +
=Brake Discs=
  
 +
First on is the new brake discs. We're using 312mm discs from an Audi TT Mk1, and these will need some modification to fit. The centre bore needs opeing up 1mm and two holes need drilling in between the two current bolt holes
  
 +
You can either give the discs to a machine shop to mod for you, or do it yourself using a drill and a Dremel.
  
−
Because I've put the E34 calipers on the front and plan to do the rear the standard E30 master cylinder isn't big enough to move enough fluid
+
To do this yourself, bolt the Audi 312mm disc to the BMW 260mm disc with the E30 wheel nuts so that the cone centers the discs. Use a carbide burr to open up the centre to match the BMW disc, then drill the required wheel bolt holes through the BMW disc and into the Audi disc. Start with a small drill bit before moving up to a 12mm bit.
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everyone just uses the E32 750i MC but I also wanted more assistance to match, also the cost of these MC's are silly now so I saw a thread on an American site that used an E32 735i MC and servo, its still a 25mm MC so should improve the feeling to near stock level
 
  
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But one problem is that a few mods are needed, the E32 I got mine from had a spacer on the back of the servo. There are two options here
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[[Image:E34Brakes003.jpg|400px]]
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1. use the spacer requires the least mods but the brake fluid resiviour will be right underneath the inlet boot on the m20 and possible fouling
 
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2. Ditch the spacer but then a few mods are needed, these are:
 
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Grind down and shorten the push rod to put the clevis at original level
 
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Open up 2 holes in the bulkhead
 
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Bend the brake lines slightly
 
  
 +
Before you attach the disc, bolt the front bracket to the hub with two of the M12x40mm nuts and bolts
  
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I choose number 2 for an original look to the engine bay
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Attach the disc and bolt to the hub using the wheel nuts to stop it moving about while we fit the calipers.
  
 +
=Calipers=
  
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opened up holes
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Scored the front brackets first all the way from Germany. These are the 300mm.de  adapters.
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E34Brakes005
 
  
 +
[[Image:E34Brakes001.jpg|400px]]
  
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ground down the pushrod
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If you're more creative, you can opt to make your own based on the following dimensions:
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E34Brakes006
 
  
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started to make the thread
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[[Image:E34Caliperbracket.jpg|400px]]
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E34Brakes007
 
  
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About an Inch and half cut off, also threaded as far as I dared
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These were designed to be used with the E34 caliper and an audi 312mm disc. As you can see, these calipers are particluarly beefy.
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E34Brakes008
 
  
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remember if your doing this then leave the die wound on before you cut it off so you can then unwind it and clean the threads so the clevis will go on with no trouble
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[[Image:E34Brakes002.jpg|400px]]
  
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test fit
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The brake carrier needs some slight grinding to line up the holes in the bracket and carrier, because it hits the hub. This will be trial and error on your part but I found it to be about 3-4mm (grind you carrier at your own risk)
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E34Brakes009
 
  
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I was made up that the standard E32 vacuum line was in the perfect place to line up to the E30 system Smile
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Once the carrier is bolted in nice and tight you can install the pads with copper grease on the contact parts.
  
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the clevis was the tricky part
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Wind the caliper onto the brake hose, then attach the caliper to the carrier with the two slide bolts (7mm allen)
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I lost the E30 clevis so I used the E32 one but it was way too long so needed trimming and slight mods so please keep your e30 one unless you want some trial and error fitment issues that involves installing ad removing the servo/clevis multiple times
 
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E34Brakes010
 
  
 +
Tighten the brake hose in caliper with your 13mm spanner
  
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All done apart from take it all apart to paint the servo and bench bleed the MC
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REPEAT THE OTHER SIDE and admire your new front brakes
−
E34Brakes011
 

Latest revision as of 12:59, 25 January 2015

If you've dramatically increased your engine's power, either by an engine swap or Forced Induction, then you're going to need some bigger Brakes.

This guide walks you through fitting E34 front calipers. We also recommend following the sister article about fitting an E32 servo and master cylinder. The standard E30 master cylinder is not big enough for the E34 calipers.

Installed.JPG

This is not a bolt-on process. Some fabrication and custom parts are required to fit everything together.

Parts

  • E34 540i Front calipers, Carriers, bolts, clips
  • Audi TT MK1 312x25mm vented front discs x2
  • E34 540i Brake pads (your choice, I chose brembo OE)
  • Caliper adapters
  • M12x40 Nylock nut and bolts x8 (ebay)

Tools

  • 13mm brake pipe spanner
  • 17mm spanner
  • Allen key set
  • Hammer
  • Jack and jack stands (or post-lift if you're a flash git)
  • Grinder with discs
  • Drill and steel drill bits (up to 12mm)

Preparation

Loosen the front wheel nuts on each side, then jack the car up using the appropriate Jacking Points and secure it on jack stands. Remove the wheels and place them under the car for safety.

Next crack off the brake hoses going into the front calipers. Undo the caliper carrier bolts (17mm), remove the entire caliper assembly from the disc, and rotate it multiple times to get the brake hose out.

Take the appropriate sized Allen key and undo the brake disc retaining bolt. With that off, the brake disc should wiggle off the hub. A few clouts with a hammer from behind can help.

You should now have a bare naked hub to attach your new brakes to.

Brake Discs

First on is the new brake discs. We're using 312mm discs from an Audi TT Mk1, and these will need some modification to fit. The centre bore needs opeing up 1mm and two holes need drilling in between the two current bolt holes

You can either give the discs to a machine shop to mod for you, or do it yourself using a drill and a Dremel.

To do this yourself, bolt the Audi 312mm disc to the BMW 260mm disc with the E30 wheel nuts so that the cone centers the discs. Use a carbide burr to open up the centre to match the BMW disc, then drill the required wheel bolt holes through the BMW disc and into the Audi disc. Start with a small drill bit before moving up to a 12mm bit.

E34Brakes003.jpg

Before you attach the disc, bolt the front bracket to the hub with two of the M12x40mm nuts and bolts

Attach the disc and bolt to the hub using the wheel nuts to stop it moving about while we fit the calipers.

Calipers

Scored the front brackets first all the way from Germany. These are the 300mm.de adapters.

E34Brakes001.jpg

If you're more creative, you can opt to make your own based on the following dimensions:

E34Caliperbracket.jpg

These were designed to be used with the E34 caliper and an audi 312mm disc. As you can see, these calipers are particluarly beefy.

E34Brakes002.jpg

The brake carrier needs some slight grinding to line up the holes in the bracket and carrier, because it hits the hub. This will be trial and error on your part but I found it to be about 3-4mm (grind you carrier at your own risk)

Once the carrier is bolted in nice and tight you can install the pads with copper grease on the contact parts.

Wind the caliper onto the brake hose, then attach the caliper to the carrier with the two slide bolts (7mm allen)

Tighten the brake hose in caliper with your 13mm spanner

REPEAT THE OTHER SIDE and admire your new front brakes

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