subwoofer

In Car Entertainment - NO SELLING OF I.C.E. PLEASE

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jordano
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Post Sun May 29, 2005 8:58 pm

Hi can anyone advise me of the best place to put a subwoofer in a cabriolet?
JAMZ
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Post Mon May 30, 2005 12:26 pm

from what i read,Centre of boot with speaker facing backwards..i.e awy from seats...

some people try and port the sound under yer rear seats..not to sure on how hard that is...
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GAZ01
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Post Mon May 30, 2005 4:07 pm

I dont think it really matters as long as there isnt anything too close to the sub front. Try it in different places and see if it makes any difference.
Kam320i_cab
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Post Mon May 30, 2005 10:53 pm

mate just get a good sub and amp, bridge it and ur done

u gota try get a powerfull one
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BrAdZ
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Post Tue May 31, 2005 10:40 am

doesnt really matter to be honest i have 2x of these http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/product ... f8c5c813d5

and i dont have anyproblems feeling the bass lol
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Batch
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Post Tue May 31, 2005 11:53 am

My idea is to make an install instead of the rear seat for my coupe, that should look stunning, sound good. The only negative thing is that you'll loose your rear seat, so the car becomes 2-seater. I think it should work for the convertibe too.
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BrAdZ
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Post Tue May 31, 2005 12:27 pm

i thought about that, but theres 2x steel pannels beween rear seat and boot space, and being a cabby i didnt want to gain any more flex in the car!
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mrLEE30
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Post Tue Jun 07, 2005 4:00 pm

As said dont cut out the metal behind the seats as that will add flex into the car which is bad! i put a ported sub box in my boot with the port firing sideways (12inch JBL 1000W, 3 cubic feet internal volume, 13inch by 3 inch port = 40Hz resonant frequency) and face it into the cabin, i tried facing it out as in the picture and the bass was definately louder but for songs such as with a bass guitar you get a better range facing into the cabin. The main problem with the cab is the boot is so well sealed it is difficult to allow the air to escape. I tried porting it under the back seat but did not really make any difference. In the space where the roof sits when folded is a carpet, lift up the carpet and remove the four or five rubber plugs, this allows the boot to breath a little easier. I also removed the carpet in the boot from behind the rear seat and under the roof enclosure.

A good tip also is to power the amp from the rear heater blower, i dont use mine so i junked it, shorted out the small switch in the roof enclosure, and powered the amp from this supply, then you can turn on and off your sub from the rear demister button, handy in dodgy areas!



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REEDY
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Post Tue Jun 07, 2005 6:47 pm

hello mate, this is how i done mine,

not finished yet but sounds spot on!!!

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Adam318i
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Post Tue Jun 07, 2005 7:37 pm

Heres a pic of mine fireing into the cabin, the seats were being changed at the time

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And from the boot,

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Adam
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mrLEE30
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Post Wed Jun 08, 2005 5:39 am

Nice set ups lads but the thread is about subs into cabs, and we dont have the luxury of a ski hatch.
REEDY
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Post Wed Jun 08, 2005 7:00 pm

very good point mate, soz

:oops:
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Jos
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Post Thu Jun 09, 2005 3:00 pm

Was thinking about this for my project car regarding the metal plate, although I do have a ski hatch I like stereo subs :) Would it be safe enough to cut 2 12" holes in the metal panel and reinforce the whole lot with steel bar bolted every 6" or so right across the car?

============== <- top of seat plate
-+---+---+---+---+- < steel bar with bolts (+)
__ __
/----\ /----\
|-- ---| |------| <- Sub cutouts
\___/ \___/
-+---+---+---+---+- <- steel bar with bolts (+)
============== <- bottom of seat plate

or do you think you would need diagonals in there too? maybe a crisscross welded section bolted instead of the straight bars?

edit: can't get the sub cutouts to work, but you get the idea I hope:)
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dazleeds
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Post Thu Jun 09, 2005 3:10 pm

jos mate
why bother with 2subs when is dosent make any difference to 1 sub??

bass is omnidirectional and also you dnt hear good bass you feel it so just go for 1 shithot sub and done sorted plus you save a little space with the smaller box cheers Daz
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Jos
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Post Thu Jun 09, 2005 6:06 pm

Don't have an amp that can bridge to 1 channel mainly, and I already have 2 12" subs. Oh and bass is only omnidirectional below 100Hz and you can get an effect called 'smearing' with only 1 sub. Also 2*12" shifts an awful lot of air lol..

If the subs fire into the back seat the space loss is very low as you can build an enclosure around that, I estimate you would only lose about 8" of bootspace across the car.

I have about Ԛ£6.5k worth of home hifi equipment (Monitor Audio, Myrad, TEAC VDRS etc etc) and I do like extreme hifi, I know cars are crap for reproduction but every little helps.
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chu346
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Post Thu Jun 09, 2005 7:18 pm

You know how the saying go's, theres no replacemnet for displacement! well that go's for subwoofers too. I had a 1500wrms audiobahn 12" subwoofer once, and i couldn't hear it. Then i use 2 low powered 12"ers and it sounded pretty good. But then i used 4 of the same woofers with a total of 1200wrms and that was very loud. That was all in a E30 saloon by the way. My advice is use as many subs as possible.
I'm going to try and get 4 10"ers in the boot of my cab, when funds allow.
mrLEE30
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Post Sat Jun 11, 2005 2:46 pm

Oh you lot with tin roofs above your heads should start a thread for subs in saloon cars!!

As for cutting holes in the rear panel it would work provided you strengthened the area, personally if you were to cut a hole (in a saloon but would not do it with a cab) then my advice would be to put a stainless steel ring around the hole you have cut out, probably a couple of mm thick and an inch or so wide, then bolt your sub-woofer to this, the idea is the extra strength of stainless should compensate for the hole you have made. those with no ski hatch will notice that there is a plate welded over the area where the skihatch should go, this can be removed with no problems (as it is only really tackwelded in) then if you have space a rear strut brace and all should be ok.

But why not put your subs in the boot, in ported boxes and fire the ports throught the rear seats into the cabin ( i originally ran mine under the rear seat foam) that way you would only need to cut out 3-4 inch holes for the ports rather than several 10-12 inch holes)And you would get to keep your back seat, or alternaltively run the ports up through the rear parcel shelf and finish them off nicely.

I reckon there are much better alternatives to cutting bloody great holes out of your car, have a think about it