Clutch bleed and mis-fire.

[Kenneth]

My car is a E30 316, -83, (1756cc) M10-engine, carburettor, 2-d saloon.

I have just changed the clutch friction-disc, flywheel and release bearing. There was nothing friction material left on the disc . I have put the car back on the ground from the axel-stands. But I did not bleed the clutch first. I tried it for a test drive. Now I can't get the car going faster then 20 kilometers per hour. Before I changed the clutch the car had the same problem going uphill... but now it's not uphill but normal right forward road.

I have allso got a mis-fire problem after changing the clutch. It was not good before either. But not this bad. When I press the throttle it misfires up the carburettor. But if I'm very carefull on the throttle the engine will slowly increase rpm. My only thoughts of wat might have happend is that I might have turned the destribuator when working on the transmission bolts.

Do you think my "not getting more than 20 k/h problem" is caused by the ginition or because not bleeding the clutch? Or both?

I'm here hoping for good answers...
Kenneth

[gavs328touring]

i would say its more likely to be an ignition problem. if you can get the car into gear and your clutch pedal is quite stiff- bleeding it wont make that much difference. sounds like timing, plugs/leads, but almost definately an electrical/ignition problem. i cant be 100% though.

[Toby_Unna]

you shouldn't have needed to disconnect the clutch slave anyway, unless it was knackered?!

agree with gav, sounds like an igniton problem, a new dizzy cap cured this same problem on my m535i.

[Brianmoooore]

Fully agree with the above. If this is the original Pierburg carb, this is likely to be well worn by now as well.

[Kenneth]

you shouldn't have needed to disconnect the clutch slave anyway, unless it was knackered?!

agree with gav, sounds like an igniton problem, a new dizzy cap cured this same problem on my m535i.

I did not diconnect the slave more than taking it off the transmission... and that is necessary if you are putting in a new clutch-kit...

[Kenneth]

Adjusted the ignition timing today... Now it's fine . Cleaned the plugs too... each plug had a 3mm thick cox layer on them. The new clutch is fine too! REALY fine! I noticed some sharp steering though... changed the track-rod ends a while ago... but have not driven the car since then. I'm having it adjusted when I can afford it... I will have to say bye bye too some rubber because that is going to be two or three months from now. But never mind that.. I have had a spendid day today!

ps: A little quiestion... my caburettor does not match the carburettors used in the Haynes E30 manual at all. There is no choke housing.. And I have a loose Termal starter valve with two hoses connected to it from the radiator. But there is no place to fit it too the carburettor. It is not a Solex carburettor like the two types mentioned in Haynes... it is called Pierburg.

[Kenneth]

Fully agree with the above. If this is the original Pierburg carb, this is likely to be well worn by now as well.

The car milage (scandinavian miles) is only 154256kilometers. I don't think it's worn. And there is no problem except that I can't figure why the choke won't close.

[Brianmoooore]

The choke mechanism and the idle stabilization are the two common problems that affect the Pierburg.
Standard procedure is to replace with a kit made by Webber.

[Kenneth]

The choke mechanism and the idle stabilization are the two common problems that affect the Pierburg.
Standard procedure is to replace with a kit made by Webber.

hmm.. where do I get this webber-kit?