Central locking
Moderator: martauto
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Drivebyracing
- E30 Zone Newbie

- Posts: 159
- Joined: Fri Feb 18, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Cardiff
Hey peeps, could anyone help me? My central locking has stopped working on my 318is. I know for a fact that it is not the black box, relay, or drivers door solanoid. Does anyone know what it could possibly be? When trying to lock, a wine can be heard from the black box, but nothing happens. I had this problem on my old e30, and it was the black box and the solanoid both gone, but this has got me stumped, my mate has the same indenticle problem on his 325 as well. If anyone knows anything about this HELP please
. I wouldnt mind so much if i could lock the drivers door with a key, but the previous owner de-locked only the drivers door...and yep i gota go around to the otherside of the car everytime i leave it!!(the central locking used to work with the alarm)
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Richy325iTouring
- E30 Zone Addict

- Posts: 3490
- Joined: Sun Jan 09, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Newport SouthWales
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Same problem with mine changed the actuators and relay and solidoid. But still not locking and getting the strange noise.
This only happened after i changed the door so im puuting it down to the plug that conects to the wing or even the loom in the door itself.
Just eed the time to check them now though.
This only happened after i changed the door so im puuting it down to the plug that conects to the wing or even the loom in the door itself.
Just eed the time to check them now though.

Don't know exactly about your noise, but check this.
The controller uses the drivers solenoid (which has 2 microswitches) as feedback to figure out when it's OK to stop trying to open/close the locks.
Saw one before where the locked switch was broken. When the car was locked all would work as normal. Then 2 seconds later the controller would buzz and whine. It was pulsing the solenoids to clear an imagined jam in the mechanism. (With much arcing at the relay points)
The same could probably happen for unlocking.
Check this by seeing if the drivers door pin triggers central lock and unlock OK. If it doesn't then you've found the problem.
The passenger one should only work to unlock. So if the lock switch is broken on the drivers side you can just swap the solenoids without loosing functionality.
The controller uses the drivers solenoid (which has 2 microswitches) as feedback to figure out when it's OK to stop trying to open/close the locks.
Saw one before where the locked switch was broken. When the car was locked all would work as normal. Then 2 seconds later the controller would buzz and whine. It was pulsing the solenoids to clear an imagined jam in the mechanism. (With much arcing at the relay points)
The same could probably happen for unlocking.
Check this by seeing if the drivers door pin triggers central lock and unlock OK. If it doesn't then you've found the problem.
The passenger one should only work to unlock. So if the lock switch is broken on the drivers side you can just swap the solenoids without loosing functionality.
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Drivebyracing
- E30 Zone Newbie

- Posts: 159
- Joined: Fri Feb 18, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Cardiff
Cheers guys, forgot to mention checked the conector from the door to the wing as well and that is fine to. Definately look into what cros said though thanx again, il ave a gander at it tomorrow.
Where are the micro switches exactly though, in the drivers side solanoid yeah? Sounds like what you have described, it ownly buzzes/whines when the car was started and the cat 1 alarm was trying to lock the doors using the anti hijack feature, but there is nothing what so ever when locking or unlocking the doors manually
No rush at the mo mind, in the process of rebuilding the engine lol
Where are the micro switches exactly though, in the drivers side solanoid yeah? Sounds like what you have described, it ownly buzzes/whines when the car was started and the cat 1 alarm was trying to lock the doors using the anti hijack feature, but there is nothing what so ever when locking or unlocking the doors manually
No rush at the mo mind, in the process of rebuilding the engine lol
- Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member

- Posts: 49358
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
Check what cros says, but also check the voltage on the red/black wire going into the controller stays somewhere near 12V when the locks are trying to operate. Best way to check is with a 12V lamp.
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Drivebyracing
- E30 Zone Newbie

- Posts: 159
- Joined: Fri Feb 18, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Cardiff
Cheers Brianmoooore il check that, if there isnt, do you know what i can do to fix that or what causes it then?

