What's this??

Post Tue Oct 21, 2014 4:22 pm

My clutch has been feeling a little soft on occasions. Or the bite points is going lower sometimes.

The clutch shares the same fluid as the brakes correct? So this reservoir would be on the near side of the car (stuck to the servo?)

What's the small reservoir in front of the battery tray? Mine is empty! Just a little gunk at the bottom.... surely that isn't good.

Any quick answer appreciated as I'll be driving home from work in an hour...!

Cheers

Rhys

Post Tue Oct 21, 2014 4:36 pm

No, the clutch has a separate reservoir, mounted as you say, near the battery tray.

Sounds like either your master or slave cylinders are leaking, though you may be able to get away with topping up the reservoir (with brake fluid) for a while.

http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/index.php/Clutch

Post Tue Oct 21, 2014 5:15 pm

Thanks for the reply!

I thought it might be. If there's nothing in the reservoir, will my clutch fail on my drive home later? It's a 20 min drive. I haven't noticed any leaks inside or outside the car. I'll have a look later.

Thanks again!

Post Tue Oct 21, 2014 5:20 pm

It might be worth stopping at the first garage and buy some clutch/brake fluid. Yes it could fail on the way home if there is no fluid

Post Tue Oct 21, 2014 5:23 pm

Ok. That was my plan. Nearest garage is still quite far... ah well. Hope it makes it. Thanks for the advice!

Post Tue Oct 21, 2014 6:54 pm

If the system fails, it will fail with the clutch fully engaged, so it's perfectly possible to still drive the car, although it helps to keep away from stop/start traffic.
Start the engine in first gear, match revs. for on-the-move gear changes, and push the lever into neutral if you do need to come to a halt.
If there's black gunk in the bottom of the reservoir, it indicates that the fluid hasn't been regularly changed (every two years), and is possibly the fluid it left the factory with, or at least since it left the dealer network.

Post Wed Oct 22, 2014 11:23 am

Thanks guys.

I stopped at a garage on the way home from work last night to buy some brake fluid. After about 2 minutes of driving, my foot slipped off the clutch and my foot well was soaked!

The fluid reservoir kept drinking the fluid when I poured it in. After about 500mm it was still empty.

Was it running that low or did I pour too much in and caused the seal to blow somehow?

New master+slave is now on the order list. I've changed a slave cylinder before, how easy it it to change the master?

Rhys

Post Wed Oct 22, 2014 12:49 pm

Fairly straightforward, just awkward as you need to wriggle in under the dash, so be prepared for back ache! Also be aware that there is an eccentric bolt going through the clutch pedal to set the pedal height.

Post Wed Oct 22, 2014 1:03 pm

Will I be able to do it in a day? I did do my engine conversion (only 2.0 to 2.5) so I'm not bad with tools and things.

Found this on ebay :

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-E30-CLUTC ... 33909021e3

Surely too cheap to actually be any good.

Found a Pagid master and slave. about £70 for both. Good price?

Thanks again.

Rhys

Post Wed Oct 22, 2014 1:14 pm

Tilt the back of the drivers seat all the way down, put your feet either side of the head rest and back on the seat base.
Makes it a lot easier to work under the dash.

Post Wed Oct 22, 2014 1:56 pm

Take the seat out. Two nuts and two bolts.

Makes the job a lot easier.

Ben

Post Wed Oct 22, 2014 4:55 pm

If you plan on keeping the car for a long time, you're best off avoiding very cheap parts, which may be of poor quality.

That said, I bought a cheap (£30 ish, IIRC) replacement clutch master cylinder for my second E30 320i from a local motor factors, and it was fine all the time I had it, a good couple of years at least.

Post Wed Oct 22, 2014 5:31 pm

Ok, cheers for the advice. I'll tackle it on the weekend!

I plan to keep my car for a long time! So I don't want to go for cheap parts. I can imagine dealer prices will be high though?

Speedtouch. I've noticed your the guy to ask about ECU related things. I've been trying to cure my low cold idling problem for a while. Everything I've tested so far checks out fine. When I reconnect the battery after doing some work on the car, it starts and idles fine (where the revs should be when cold) then settles when warm. But after a while (2-3 days of regular driving), it struggles to start again and idles at around 500-600 when cold.

When the engine is under load, there is a high pitch whine coming from the ECU just at specific throttle positions. mostly when just part open.

I was just wondering if a faulty ECU could be the cause of the low idle as leaving the battery disconnected for a while resets the ECU in someway or other doesn't it?

Thanks again!

Post Wed Oct 22, 2014 5:32 pm

Rhyse30 wrote:
The fluid reservoir kept drinking the fluid when I poured it in. After about 500mm it was still empty.

This sounds more like the flexible hose from the bottle to the master cylinder has split at the cylinder end.
The cylinders may well be fine, and a new hose (or just trimming half an inch off of the end), plus bleeding the system may be all that's required.

Post Wed Oct 22, 2014 6:30 pm

Indeed, disconnecting the battery resets the ECU. After reconnecting, it should be left to idle for at least 10 minutes to enable base idle settings to be learnt, then switch off, then take it for a drive throughout the rev range; this ensures full transfer of data from the EPROM to the processor.

Which ECU do you have? The later 0 261 200 380/381 was known for blowing diodes in the idle control circuit, so if you have one and you suspect it's faulty, you should replace it with an 0 261 200 173 (a direct swap).

Post Thu Oct 23, 2014 1:00 pm

I left the car at home today and took my girlfriends car so I can't check the ECU number or if it's the hose that's the problem. I'll check these when I get home.

I have some recollection the ECU number ends in 173 but I'll need to check. Could the ECU be the problem even if its not the 380/381. Thanks again for the advice.

....Looking forward to driving home in an SLK320.... not the manliest of cars!

Post Thu Oct 23, 2014 4:13 pm

A high pitch whine from the ECU is indicative of either failed or overloaded components. Certainly sounds like it could be the problem...

Post Fri Oct 24, 2014 11:59 am

Right ok. I have a 173 ECU. With one of your mild chips Speedtouch, that should be fine for the b25?

Brianmoooore wins again! The hose going into the master cylinder had a huge split in it! Just need to figure out a way to get the horrible brake fluid smell out of the carpet now!

Thanks for all the advice guys. Maurice, I'll pm you regarding a chip.

Rhys

Post Fri Oct 24, 2014 12:53 pm

Yes, the 173 ECU is the best one to have for the M20B25.