I have been trying to sort out my cars electrics for some time. getting there I think. Just want to know, with the multimeter on 10a I get a reading of 0.35. does this mean 35ma or 350ma? With the meter set to 10a and a reading of 0.35, is this acceptable?
If i take out fuse 27 is seems to go down significantly.
Thanks
Electrical drain quick simple question
Moderator: martauto
It means 0.35 of an Amp ie. 350ma which is not acceptable. Your meter would be more accurate if it has a lower range you can use ie. 1.0 amp.
What car model/year is it?
Fuse 27 usually deals mainly with internal lighting, central locking, on board computer and radio/antenae.
What car model/year is it?
Fuse 27 usually deals mainly with internal lighting, central locking, on board computer and radio/antenae.
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Brianmoooore
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On the 10A range, 0.35 = 350mA, which is far too high. Reset the meter to a lower (2000mA?) range and see if you get 350 or 35.
35mA is a typical figure that I would expect from a fully working E30.
35mA is a typical figure that I would expect from a fully working E30.
Cheers for the quick answers. If I set it to 2000ma it gives me 350...
I do still have the problem I posted about a year ago regarding the electric windows and interior light not working with the door pins. Interior light works only if I switch it on my self, not when I open the door, and windows don't work when doors are open. I doubt that would use any power though as they don't work...?
The power drain was there when the central locking was disconnected (now fixed and working). The headunit fitted (by the previous owner, who wired multiple things to the car very badly, including a 'la cucaracha horn' to the front windscreen blower switch) is a bit dodgy, could that be pulling 350ma?
While I'm here, if any one has any insight on how to rewire the front windscreen heater blower please let me know as I cant seem to find any other wires behind the dash to connect it to. I take it there should be a block connector that fits onto the button similar to the one on my rear window blower switch?
Thanks again!
I do still have the problem I posted about a year ago regarding the electric windows and interior light not working with the door pins. Interior light works only if I switch it on my self, not when I open the door, and windows don't work when doors are open. I doubt that would use any power though as they don't work...?
The power drain was there when the central locking was disconnected (now fixed and working). The headunit fitted (by the previous owner, who wired multiple things to the car very badly, including a 'la cucaracha horn' to the front windscreen blower switch) is a bit dodgy, could that be pulling 350ma?
While I'm here, if any one has any insight on how to rewire the front windscreen heater blower please let me know as I cant seem to find any other wires behind the dash to connect it to. I take it there should be a block connector that fits onto the button similar to the one on my rear window blower switch?
Thanks again!
Last edited by Rhyse30 on Mon Jun 16, 2014 2:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Brianmoooore
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What reading do you get with fuse 27 removed?
Sorry, my mistake. Got confused with all the different problems. When i take fuse 21 out it changes.
The meter reads 0.35 on the 10a setting , and 3.5 when on the 200m setting (I don't have a 2000m setting).
Is that wrong?
When I take out fuse 21 it reads 0.1 on all settings (10a, 200m and 20m).
The meter reads 0.35 on the 10a setting , and 3.5 when on the 200m setting (I don't have a 2000m setting).
Is that wrong?
When I take out fuse 21 it reads 0.1 on all settings (10a, 200m and 20m).
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Brianmoooore
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0.35 on 10A setting is 350mA.
3.5 on a 200mA setting is 3.5mA
0.1 on all settings just doesn't make sense!
I think you may need a new meter.
Fuse 21 feeds the boot light, amongst other things, and that draws a current of around 400mA, which would drain your battery over a few days if it is not switching off.
3.5 on a 200mA setting is 3.5mA
0.1 on all settings just doesn't make sense!
I think you may need a new meter.
Fuse 21 feeds the boot light, amongst other things, and that draws a current of around 400mA, which would drain your battery over a few days if it is not switching off.
Right ok. I thought it didnt make much sense. Think I'll invest in a new meter then!
I've checked the boot light , glove box light and any other interior lights, and these are all off. Ill get a new meter and see what readings i get.
Thanks again
I've checked the boot light , glove box light and any other interior lights, and these are all off. Ill get a new meter and see what readings i get.
Thanks again
Right... Blone moment!
Checked boot light mant times, never set my phone to video and put it in the boot to record.
The boot wasn't closing tight enough to switch the light off! Really should have done this a while ago.
Can you tell me if these readings are more normal. Meter set to:
10a - 0.02
200m - 00.2
20m - 0.02
Also, have you any idea why my windows and interior light doesn't work when the doors are open?
Both door switches work as they should. There's 4-5 wires not connected to anything behind the drivers speaker. And 2 loose wires behind the passenger speaker . Each door pin has one wire going to them.
This will be the last electrical thing to gret everything working as they should (until something else fails).
I do have heated locks, not sure if they work but would they interfere with the door pin/windows/light situation?
Thanks!!!
Checked boot light mant times, never set my phone to video and put it in the boot to record.
The boot wasn't closing tight enough to switch the light off! Really should have done this a while ago.
Can you tell me if these readings are more normal. Meter set to:
10a - 0.02
200m - 00.2
20m - 0.02
Also, have you any idea why my windows and interior light doesn't work when the doors are open?
Both door switches work as they should. There's 4-5 wires not connected to anything behind the drivers speaker. And 2 loose wires behind the passenger speaker . Each door pin has one wire going to them.
This will be the last electrical thing to gret everything working as they should (until something else fails).
I do have heated locks, not sure if they work but would they interfere with the door pin/windows/light situation?
Thanks!!!
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Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member
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- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
Readings still don't make sense, but I suspect it equates to 20mA, which is about as low as it gets on an E30.
For the windows/interior light fault, first check fuse 28 is OK, and then check the door pin switches in the A pillars. Undo the single screw holding them in place and check their condition, if you disconnect the wires, don't let them slip back in through the hole in the body, or you'll have some dismantling to do to retrieve them.
Heated locks have nothing to do with the problems you have. I've never come across lock heaters that work yet, and they will definitely be out of action if you do the recommended 'red/black wire' for the central locking.
For the windows/interior light fault, first check fuse 28 is OK, and then check the door pin switches in the A pillars. Undo the single screw holding them in place and check their condition, if you disconnect the wires, don't let them slip back in through the hole in the body, or you'll have some dismantling to do to retrieve them.
Heated locks have nothing to do with the problems you have. I've never come across lock heaters that work yet, and they will definitely be out of action if you do the recommended 'red/black wire' for the central locking.
well I've recently done the red/black wire mod for the central locking. Works great. The draw now settles down to 0.02 which is good I think.
Still having problems with my windows....
The passenger door pin makes the relay click when pressed/depressed. The drivers door pin doesn't do anything, it shows it's always grounded. the interior light only works when I flick the switch on. (only works in 1 of 3 positions). I know it's a relatively small matter but I just want to get the car back to factory really. It would be nice to know everything is working as it should.
Still having problems with my windows....
The passenger door pin makes the relay click when pressed/depressed. The drivers door pin doesn't do anything, it shows it's always grounded. the interior light only works when I flick the switch on. (only works in 1 of 3 positions). I know it's a relatively small matter but I just want to get the car back to factory really. It would be nice to know everything is working as it should.
Checked the pins again last night. When I open the passenger door the relay clicks and the window switch lights come on (still no power windows or interior light though), and when I open the drivers door, no click or lights anywhere or power steering.
I've switched the door pins round and it's still the same problem. Does this mean my issue is with the wring going from the pins/interior light to fuse box?
I've switched the door pins round and it's still the same problem. Does this mean my issue is with the wring going from the pins/interior light to fuse box?
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Brianmoooore
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Do you have an interior light delay module? This is mounted on the same triangular metal plate as the central locking relay.
What's the reference to power steering???
What's the reference to power steering???
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Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member
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- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
What colour wires are connected to the pin switch in the driver's A pillar?
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Brianmoooore
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Just the one wire? Any space on the switch for a second wire?
How about on the passenger side?
How about on the passenger side?
No, on the drivers side it's just the one purple/brown wire.
The passenger side has one connection on it that splits into two wires. I wasn't able to check on my lunch break but I think there is a brown/purple and a brown/blue wire connected. I think i disconnected the brown/blue wire as when this brown/blue wire was connected, the power windows worked regardless of ignition position, doors open or anything. Light still doesn't work either way (only when I turn it on using the light switch).
Will be taking the panels off this evening to get a better idea and I'll take some pictures. If you have any thought on what I should check tonight please let me know and I'll get to work.
Thanks!
The passenger side has one connection on it that splits into two wires. I wasn't able to check on my lunch break but I think there is a brown/purple and a brown/blue wire connected. I think i disconnected the brown/blue wire as when this brown/blue wire was connected, the power windows worked regardless of ignition position, doors open or anything. Light still doesn't work either way (only when I turn it on using the light switch).
Will be taking the panels off this evening to get a better idea and I'll take some pictures. If you have any thought on what I should check tonight please let me know and I'll get to work.
Thanks!
Just an update. Worked on the electrics over the weekend. Had to take out some bodge wiring and just go about it methodically, taking on one problem at time and tracing the wires from start to finish. All works perfectly now (electric windows ignition on, doors open, interior light with doors open and so on). If you look at some of my first posts on here march 2013 I've been trying to sort this since! Thanks Brian!