Getrag G260 shifting problem

[mark_i]

325i touring: replaced the clutch and release bearing, everything went back together OK except that shifting gears is really hard. esspecially first and neutral from neutral.
Almost like the clutch isnt disengaging properly.

Anyone experienced this problem before.

[maxfield]

Bled the clutch correctly?

[mark_i]

good point, although the clutch hydraulics werent disturbed, cept for removibg the slave when the box was moved back

[mark_i]

hmmm... i'm thinking that when the slave got unbolted, the spring inside the cylinder pushed the plunger out and beyond the normal position and caused an internal slave leak as the seal moved into the ring of gunk that builds up over time....

[mark_i]

pressure plate, friction plate and release bearing came as a kit from BMW... we did compare the old and new bearings and they had the same height.
everything is bolted up so not sure if i want to split the box again... i'll bleed the hydrulics first. Thanks

[mark_i]

went to bleed the clutch and the nipple snapped....
removed the slave and didnt notice any leaks. piston moved back smoothly.
pushed a 3/8 extender against the fork arm, it moved an inch before the release bearing hit the pressure plate

while i had the front up on jack stands i had a look at the shifting linkage and noticed the rear support for the shifter was not correctly installed.
only one of the tabs was in the plate. Heat shields off and popped the plate on correctly. still the problem to engage first and reverse.

i'll replace the slave next

[mark_i]

replaced the slave cylinder today and bled the hydraulic fluid.
Grrr.... same issue with hard to select first and reverse...

i also noticed that when the gearbox was lowered to access the top two torx bolts, the tab on the rocker cover hit the firewall and bent the line that runs from the master to the slave.

[mark_i]

i'm still struggling with this shifting problem...

First and reverse are the most difficult, once moving though the box shifts fine .

gearbox oil was changed two years ago. would low oil level in the gearbox cause this issue?

[Brianmoooore]

Maybe the clutch is working fine, and it's time to try changing the gearbox oil for ATF.

[mark_i]

OK... so SAE 80 gearbox oil can be replaced with ATF, as in dextron III. Any flushing necessary?

[Brianmoooore]

Yes, ATF is what BMW specify in most post E30 boxes. No flushing required.
It's the standard 'cure' for boxes that are difficult to shift when cold.
A few years ago I was doing a full service on an E30 of unknown history, and replaced the gearbox oil with SAE80, then found the car could hardly be forced into gear when cold. A check of the oil removed revealed it was red in colour, so I concluded it must have been ATF I'd drained out. A second oil change, this time with ATF, restored the gearchange to its original smoothness.
The only downside of using ATF is that any rattles at idle will probably be slightly worse.

[mark_i]

before replacing the SAE80 with ATF, there are some more symptoms...

the shifting problem into first and reverse happens both when gearbox is cold and hot and
the gearbox oftens jumps out of these gears with a pretty forceful thump.
checked the gearbox oil level ... topped up with another 200mL

once on the move, the box shifts up and down without any crunching or whining.

possible that the clutch friction plate is binding on the input shaft? it was lubricated with moly grease when replaced

[mark_i]

before replacing the SAE80 with ATF, there are some more symptoms...

the shifting problem into first and reverse happens both when gearbox is cold and hot and
the gearbox oftens jumps out of these gears with a pretty forceful thump.
checked the gearbox oil level ... topped up with another 200mL

once on the move, the box shifts up and down without any crunching or whining.

possible that the clutch friction plate is binding on the input shaft? it was lubricated with moly grease when replaced

[age]

do yourself a favour, whip off the panel inder the steering wheel, and check the condition of the clutch master cylinder, the problem could be this.
look on the carpet for signs of leaking, but it can also leak inside the unit, or where the cylinder enters the engine bay, below the hole in the bulk head for the ecu.

it is most likely that the cylinder couldn't deal with the new clutch and failed.
seeing as you changed the slave you might alwell change the master as they tend to go together.

[age]

also, it is easier to change gear without a clutch in higher gears hence why your problem is only occurring in lower gears

[mark_i]

good point... the master cylinder doesnt have any external leaks, but true, there maybe an internal leak made worse when the new clutch was installed. Cheers

[mark_i]

good point... the master cylinder doesnt have any external leaks, but true, there maybe an internal leak made worse when the new clutch was installed. Cheers