Anyone in the liverpool or leicester area hot with a mop?

Post Mon Dec 01, 2008 4:55 pm

I don't mean your girlfriends and I don't mean in the Kitchen..........

Just wondering if anyone in either of these areas is hot with a mop, really want to get the roof/bootlid done to get them looking good- to be honest that whole lot wants doing but that can wait. - Either that or can someone advise me on how to get rid of little pitted marks on my roof/c pillars and bootlid?

Not averse to providing a box of suitable beverage to anyone who want to do it?!!

Chris

Post Tue Dec 23, 2008 11:25 am

most bodyshops will do it for you mate and charge you upto 70 quid depending on who they are etc

Post Tue Dec 23, 2008 1:24 pm

Personally take it to a detailer. Most bodyshops won't finish down and will leave buffer trails. will look fine in low light but when the sun hits it more often than not looks awful. have a look on www.detailingworld.co.uk for someone in your area. expect to pay a couple of hundred for a proper job. You're just a bit too far away for me to come up.

Post Tue Dec 23, 2008 1:49 pm

here's a link. there's a list of detailers in each area section towards the top.

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/f ... y.php?f=34

Post Tue Dec 23, 2008 4:57 pm

it's a shit bodyshop then innit mate, detailing is over-rated, cars get driven.

Post Tue Dec 23, 2008 5:05 pm

yer and SOME people take care of them

Post Tue Dec 23, 2008 5:07 pm

Bob_S wrote:it's a shit bodyshop then innit mate, detailing is over-rated, cars get driven.

it's horses for courses. you get what you pay for. go to a kosovan hand wash if you like a clean car but if you like a really clean car go with a detailer.

i'd be very surprised if any bodyshop quoted as little as £70 for going over with a "mop" and actually done a job that was worth having done.

Post Wed Dec 24, 2008 12:52 am

zimmer-320i wrote:yer and SOME people take care of them

and what the fucking hell are you on about now? You really ought to learn when to stop your fingers wander over the keyboard.
As for stealing someones turd because the locks are worn, now that really is low!

Horses for courses but my bodyshop know how to make a car look good come rain, shine or rose tinted.

Post Wed Dec 24, 2008 8:44 am

need sum pics to see how bad it is

Post Wed Dec 24, 2008 10:47 am

it's not a very clear pic so will try to explain.

the left hand side of the picture is before paint correction or as some people call it "mopping" this is a very out of date term and refers to the name given to the machine that is used. which in essence (sp) is a variable speed angle grinder with a soft foam velcro backing plate instead of a cutting wheel. to this you can put various grades of pad on. it's these differrent grades of pad and also the polish that can cause the buffer trails and only occurs when a rotary machine is used. this is a result of where a heavy cut pad has been used with a heavy cut polish on the rotary (mop). to get rid of this you need to finish down through soft pads and less abraisive polishes.

so back to the pic. the left is pre correction and on the right is after the first stage. you'll notice that there are some faint random lines that are reflecting. these are the buffer trails.

the idea is not to leave these. if a dual action machine is used then it's very rare to get them. if you do the work properly reflections in black paint like this are possible.

other colours:

and a multi colour after paint correction and protection

sorry but you asked for pics

Post Wed Dec 24, 2008 12:04 pm

Some tasty imprezas there.

I've always wondered how long does it last after the detailing session. What I mean by that is my car would be filthy 3 or 4 days later and once I clean it will I not leave streak marks or other nasties? Is this where you would use that foam spray stuff? I could understand detailing if it was a car that was going to a museum for the rest of its life, but does it have any purpose for your average joe?

I'm not slating the work, as its clearly imense, but somewhat frivilous to someone like me?

Post Wed Dec 24, 2008 12:10 pm

you just need a bit of elbow action for that, i used to sell wrecks just by making them shine.

Post Wed Dec 24, 2008 12:28 pm

Jon_Bmw wrote:Some tasty imprezas there.

I've always wondered how long does it last after the detailing session. What I mean by that is my car would be filthy 3 or 4 days later and once I clean it will I not leave streak marks or other nasties? Is this where you would use that foam spray stuff? I could understand detailing if it was a car that was going to a museum for the rest of its life, but does it have any purpose for your average joe?

I'm not slating the work, as its clearly imense, but somewhat frivilous to someone like me?

if you're going to use a bucket and sponge to wash it afterwards and a leather to dry it with then don't bother having it done lol. you need to change the wash and protection routine to avoid the swirls. good lambswool washmitts, 2 bucket method washing and pat drying with mf towels or even better a leaf blower / compressor with blower attachment. yes foaming helps a huge amount and keeping up with wax, not polish, helps as this way the dirt cannot bond to the paint so makes it easier to clean.

however you won't stop swirls forever or completely. if you have a good wash and protect routine you'll only need it done every few years.

Post Wed Dec 24, 2008 12:30 pm

Flozman wrote:you just need a bit of elbow action for that, i used to sell wrecks just by making them shine.

100% guarentee you that work on 1 by hand and 1 by machine then put them under halogen lights and i'll tell you which is which. you can get some cracking results by hand but you'll never match machine work.

completely agree though that if you just want to tart a motor up to get an extra few quid when you flog it, then an afternoon with some polish and a drop of wax will get you selling much easier.

Post Thu Dec 25, 2008 8:03 am

neamem wrote:it's not a very clear pic so will try to explain.

the left hand side of the picture is before paint correction or as some people call it "mopping" this is a very out of date term and refers to the name given to the machine that is used. which in essence (sp) is a variable speed angle grinder with a soft foam velcro backing plate instead of a cutting wheel. to this you can put various grades of pad on. it's these differrent grades of pad and also the polish that can cause the buffer trails and only occurs when a rotary machine is used. this is a result of where a heavy cut pad has been used with a heavy cut polish on the rotary (mop). to get rid of this you need to finish down through soft pads and less abraisive polishes.

so back to the pic. the left is pre correction and on the right is after the first stage. you'll notice that there are some faint random lines that are reflecting. these are the buffer trails.

the idea is not to leave these. if a dual action machine is used then it's very rare to get them. if you do the work properly reflections in black paint like this are possible.

if you use enough water you do not get swirl marks its from people useing cutting paste like g3 with not alot or no water that make a mess of it and after g3 has been used to get rid of the the small amount of swirls you have your ment to use a finishing paste which is not a cutting paste its more like a polish. and as for that detailing there is more to life than your car being spotless just get out there and use it a bucket and sponge will do for me and a bit of trade wax a mate gets me will do for summer

Post Thu Dec 25, 2008 8:31 am

neamem wrote:
Bob_S wrote:it's a shit bodyshop then innit mate, detailing is over-rated, cars get driven.
it's horses for courses. you get what you pay for. go to a kosovan hand wash if you like a clean car but if you like a really clean car go with a detailer.

i'd be very surprised if any bodyshop quoted as little as £70 for going over with a "mop" and actually done a job that was worth having done.

How true. Just ask Howard (HE30) I detailed his sport demonstrating what a clay bar and MEGS G220 can do. There's clean and there's 'Clean'

Post Fri Dec 26, 2008 7:11 pm

town325i wrote:
neamem wrote:it's not a very clear pic so will try to explain.

the left hand side of the picture is before paint correction or as some people call it "mopping" this is a very out of date term and refers to the name given to the machine that is used. which in essence (sp) is a variable speed angle grinder with a soft foam velcro backing plate instead of a cutting wheel. to this you can put various grades of pad on. it's these differrent grades of pad and also the polish that can cause the buffer trails and only occurs when a rotary machine is used. this is a result of where a heavy cut pad has been used with a heavy cut polish on the rotary (mop). to get rid of this you need to finish down through soft pads and less abraisive polishes.

so back to the pic. the left is pre correction and on the right is after the first stage. you'll notice that there are some faint random lines that are reflecting. these are the buffer trails.

the idea is not to leave these. if a dual action machine is used then it's very rare to get them. if you do the work properly reflections in black paint like this are possible.
if you use enough water you do not get swirl marks its from people useing cutting paste like g3 with not alot or no water that make a mess of it and after g3 has been used to get rid of the the small amount of swirls you have your ment to use a finishing paste which is not a cutting paste its more like a polish. and as for that detailing there is more to life than your car being spotless just get out there and use it a bucket and sponge will do for me and a bit of trade wax a mate gets me will do for summer

not that i've found fella. all adding water does is tends to make a right royal mess. far easier to move through the pads and grades of polish / compound or whatever you want to call them. you get a much more refined finish too.

g3 is incredibly out of date. yes it's fine to use for body shops as it's cheap and easy to use. the polishes that are out now such as the menzerna range are far more advanced. being oil based they don't need water and the work life is far greater.

buffer trails and halograms, marrring etc are all results of the speed, polish and pad used when working with a rotary.

agreed there is more to life than an uber clean car. but why look like you don't care about it when you can tackle the lanes in a spotless & cracking looking car.

Post Fri Dec 26, 2008 11:17 pm

neamem wrote:
town325i wrote:
neamem wrote:it's not a very clear pic so will try to explain.

the left hand side of the picture is before paint correction or as some people call it "mopping" this is a very out of date term and refers to the name given to the machine that is used. which in essence (sp) is a variable speed angle grinder with a soft foam velcro backing plate instead of a cutting wheel. to this you can put various grades of pad on. it's these differrent grades of pad and also the polish that can cause the buffer trails and only occurs when a rotary machine is used. this is a result of where a heavy cut pad has been used with a heavy cut polish on the rotary (mop). to get rid of this you need to finish down through soft pads and less abraisive polishes.

so back to the pic. the left is pre correction and on the right is after the first stage. you'll notice that there are some faint random lines that are reflecting. these are the buffer trails.

the idea is not to leave these. if a dual action machine is used then it's very rare to get them. if you do the work properly reflections in black paint like this are possible.
if you use enough water you do not get swirl marks its from people useing cutting paste like g3 with not alot or no water that make a mess of it and after g3 has been used to get rid of the the small amount of swirls you have your ment to use a finishing paste which is not a cutting paste its more like a polish. and as for that detailing there is more to life than your car being spotless just get out there and use it a bucket and sponge will do for me and a bit of trade wax a mate gets me will do for summer
not that i've found fella. all adding water does is tends to make a right royal mess. far easier to move through the pads and grades of polish / compound or whatever you want to call them. you get a much more refined finish too.

g3 is incredibly out of date. yes it's fine to use for body shops as it's cheap and easy to use. the polishes that are out now such as the menzerna range are far more advanced. being oil based they don't need water and the work life is far greater.

buffer trails and halograms, marrring etc are all results of the speed, polish and pad used when working with a rotary.

agreed there is more to life than an uber clean car. but why look like you don't care about it when you can tackle the lanes in a spotless & cracking looking car.

tbh ive moped 1000's of cars with g3 and never left swirl marks on the paint and thats all different colours and thats doing it the way i have stated if you have more money than you can think of go for all the expencive stuff but ive got better things to do than spend all my money on my car and detailing is a bit ott imho especially in winter meaning though my car is a daily driver

Post Sat Dec 27, 2008 12:01 pm

But have you got the depth in the paint as shown in some of the examples above?

I think I can guess the answer though.

Post Sun Dec 28, 2008 8:20 pm

Jon_Bmw wrote:But have you got the depth in the paint as shown in some of the examples above?

I think I can guess the answer though.

if i took long enough and got paid the kind of money those people get paid for doing it i could how much does a detailing session on your car cost i would say its more than £400 a time?