Rust Traps

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tusker
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Post Tue Jun 14, 2005 9:23 am

I've got a pre facelift 318i. Pretty much in mint condition. I've read in other threads that rear wheel arches and jacking points are common rust traps on the E30. The question is where should I waxoyl to prevent any rust?
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Brianmoooore
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Post Tue Jun 14, 2005 9:35 am

Main and most hidden rust area on an E30 is up under the rear right wheel arch. There's a silly half plastic liner, which acts as a mud trap, and all sorts of brackets up there that give rust a place to start.
Personaly, I avoid cars that show any sign of external rust on either rear wheel arch.
Jos
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Post Tue Jun 14, 2005 12:16 pm

Behind mudflaps are also common, take them off if you have them and live with the stonechips, easier to fix..

Already said my opinions on waxoyl, not impressed with it, better off with Dinitrol imo. The main areas I found on my 318 pre were the arch lips on the front and rear, the front subframe mounts and the front driver and passenger side footwells.

Nothing substitutes a seriously good clean once every few days with a powerwasher.

Have a look at my pics and you will see the bits that were fixed, and the bits that now probably won't get fixed..

http://www.e30zone.co.uk/modules.php?na ... opic&t=778
'89 Touring - slightly rippled with a rusty underside
'94 e36 tree climber
tusker
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Post Tue Jun 14, 2005 1:44 pm

Thanks guys. Photos of the body apart are really useful to help see where the traps are. My underseal is still intact as it's been garaged all it's life and only done 80k miles. I use a powerwasher every month or so but I'll use it more often. I'll also get some Dinitrol and dose the suspect areas namely:

front & rear wheel arch seams
front subframe mounts
footwells

I had the mudguards off recently and didn't see any problems there. I don't want to remove the mudguards (factory fitted from new) but I'll dose the areas around them as well.

Is it easy to get the plastic liner out from the right wheel arch to give it a good clean behind?
tusker
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Post Tue Jun 14, 2005 1:50 pm

Where would I get small quantities of Dinitrol from and is it easy to apply?
Jos
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Post Tue Jun 14, 2005 1:54 pm

http://www.dinitrol.co.uk/automotive.htm#body

I think the stuff I used was 4941, if you have bare metal the 447 would be a good choice to go on 1st.

Suppliers vary, I pick mine up in a regular autoparts store, most of them seem to only carry waxoyl though.

www.rust.co.uk has it, I also belive there is a discount for zoners, have a look in the Zone Group Buys section.

Easy to apply, sort of... you can spray it if you have a sprayer that can do 130psi sustained, most hobby ones can't. The other option is a paintbrush, generally brush is good enough for arches etc, just pile loads in there.

The plastic arch is dead easy to remove, about 3 plastic 10mm nuts hold it on... speaking of which I forgot to but mine back on lol..
'89 Touring - slightly rippled with a rusty underside
'94 e36 tree climber
Turbo-Brown
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Post Tue Jun 14, 2005 1:58 pm

Don't forget to go out for a good long drive on a hot sunny day to dry everything out before spraying waxy things into cavities! :)
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Martinaston
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Post Tue Jun 14, 2005 2:59 pm

I've found with the post facelift cars the rear wheelarch is rolled back up to protect the very edge from stone chips, this seems to make them last a bit longer but the mud then hides in the gully.A good going over (or under) with the hose keeps it clear.
On some rovers they fitted a piece of trim similar to the boot seal but i don'tknow how that stood up over time.
The E30 came with a six year anti-corrosion warrenty so after that the rust starts to build under the paint even if undamaged.
Once that sets in it's impossible to tell untill the paint starts to bubble and by then repairing the damaged spot is a loosing battle but it has to be done.
The first place i've found it shows is around the petrol tank supports below the back seats.

Prevention is better than cure.
(but who's got the time for that) :cry:
Jos
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Post Tue Jun 14, 2005 5:16 pm

Yeah that gully is one place you should LIBERALLY apply waxy things :lol:
'89 Touring - slightly rippled with a rusty underside
'94 e36 tree climber
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orangecurry
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Post Tue Jun 14, 2005 5:32 pm

pre-facelist car - I took my OE front mudflaps off recently (they are not gay all right? I'm going to put them back on...)

if you then take out the small plastic cover that is only held in with an 8mm nut with washer, you can just get inside where the front wing meets the sill.

Mine, although not rusty, was full of mud. I jetted it out and have made a new raised flowerbed with the soil that came out.

It's quite nice and not gay in any way, a bit like my OE mudflaps. :x
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Post Tue Jun 14, 2005 5:55 pm

On the post facelift cars they have two holes at the bottom of the wing for drainage.(they still get full of sh!t) but do the older ones have these ?