Make sure you get the correct type of switch as there are two different types you should need one with two connectors on it one for the windows and one for the interior lightAlex wrote:for some strange reason they only worked when the passanger door was open however the door was open and the motor ran for a second and stopped, all switch lights off and door still open. when i open and close the doors you hear a relay click so i assume its not that
the drivers door switch needs replacing i assume with a new one they would work when the drivers door was open
325i Cabby Project/Resto -Small update 18-11-10
Moderator: martauto
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town325i
- E30 Zone Team Member

- Posts: 7050
- Joined: Thu Jun 26, 2008 11:00 pm
- Location: cannock staffordshire

i found this today if any bits are of use?
i got the post code if you want it..
took the lip off the valance to get the fogs only to find they are a homebrew set but a good idea and left them.
picture deleted.
i got the post code if you want it..
took the lip off the valance to get the fogs only to find they are a homebrew set but a good idea and left them.
picture deleted.
Last edited by magpie on Thu Sep 02, 2010 8:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.

m52 b30 stroker 6-speed 318is Galvanizer
m42 touring
+ a yard full of scrap turds
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Alex
- Married to the E30 Zone

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- Location: Johannesburg, South Africa
the turds home ready for some welding action, got a grinder and welder sat in the garage and plenty of zinc primer, seam sealer and sheet metal
had to remove front valance to get onto car transporter

excuse rear valance, work in progress

Just need some side bump strips and a rear bumper and i think thats everything.
Think i'am sorted with a rear bumper from Dezzy
ps its not rust behind that lower bump strip its waxoil, cannot use enough of that stuff
should be good to smoke about in for a year at least when done
had to remove front valance to get onto car transporter

excuse rear valance, work in progress

Just need some side bump strips and a rear bumper and i think thats everything.
Think i'am sorted with a rear bumper from Dezzy
ps its not rust behind that lower bump strip its waxoil, cannot use enough of that stuff
should be good to smoke about in for a year at least when done
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Alex
- Married to the E30 Zone

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Unfortunatly insurance wont touch me till i get 3 years no claims in 5 month timeRav335uk wrote:Not much left then, be ready by POD
might of saved up enough for a set of non staggerd pina wheels by then
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Rav335uk
- E30 Zone Meets/Events Team

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Gone mate.Alex wrote:
might of saved up enough for a set of non staggerd pina wheels by then
http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... 99#1957199

If you Got "Haters",Then your doing something Right!
CR24v??? Where's it all gone?? LOL
The bumper is yours Alex.
Looking farward to seeing your progress.
Big thumbs up for having a go mate. Do your best and it will be a cracker. Better than sitting on your arse and hoping someone will do it for you
Looking farward to seeing your progress.
Big thumbs up for having a go mate. Do your best and it will be a cracker. Better than sitting on your arse and hoping someone will do it for you

Co Founder of CR24vTM By Invitation Only. Absolutely no riff raff!!!
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Alex
- Married to the E30 Zone

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Thanks Dez
Nearly decided to scrap it today and gave in but something made me carry one and i'am pleased i did as two bits of welding are now complete. uploading pics soon. welding looks pretty shit and it alot harder than two nice bits of clean metal on the floor but ive made sure plenty of rust proofing is done and its solid. if it last a year or two i will be happy
PS: there isnt much left in terms of the battery tray in the boot. actually there isnt one any more
Nearly decided to scrap it today and gave in but something made me carry one and i'am pleased i did as two bits of welding are now complete. uploading pics soon. welding looks pretty shit and it alot harder than two nice bits of clean metal on the floor but ive made sure plenty of rust proofing is done and its solid. if it last a year or two i will be happy
PS: there isnt much left in terms of the battery tray in the boot. actually there isnt one any more
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Alex
- Married to the E30 Zone

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- Location: Johannesburg, South Africa
Started some welding today, first i attempted an easy ish bit the rotten area behind the rear number plate.
I cut out the rot and made it as square as i could
i then removed some paint with the grinder round the hole for the welding. i used some weld through zinc primer on the bare metal before welding so if there is any metal hidden thats not been welded it wont start rusting.


Weld through zinc primer

Not the best pic as i was in the garage when i took it. there were a few gaps here and there so again i made sure plenty of zinc primer was sprayed in the holes and all over the welded area after i had cleaned it with a drill and wire end thingy.
it kept setting on fire hence the black

Going to use a prefacelif numberplate surround to hide it as its probably longer than a numberplate.
after i had sprayed both sides with zinc primer i painted plenty of seam sealer on top. did the same to both sides.

started to cut some of the boot tidy out



next i tackled a corner of the boot
did the same sort of process to the first patch using plenty of weld through zinc primer.


Not brilliant i know
i kept aiming wrong

decided to call it a day so cleaned it all and sprayed some zinc primer onto it. will grind it down and use a light skim of filler on it.

any critasism or advice welcome
I cut out the rot and made it as square as i could
i then removed some paint with the grinder round the hole for the welding. i used some weld through zinc primer on the bare metal before welding so if there is any metal hidden thats not been welded it wont start rusting.


Weld through zinc primer

Not the best pic as i was in the garage when i took it. there were a few gaps here and there so again i made sure plenty of zinc primer was sprayed in the holes and all over the welded area after i had cleaned it with a drill and wire end thingy.
it kept setting on fire hence the black

Going to use a prefacelif numberplate surround to hide it as its probably longer than a numberplate.
after i had sprayed both sides with zinc primer i painted plenty of seam sealer on top. did the same to both sides.

started to cut some of the boot tidy out



next i tackled a corner of the boot
did the same sort of process to the first patch using plenty of weld through zinc primer.


Not brilliant i know

decided to call it a day so cleaned it all and sprayed some zinc primer onto it. will grind it down and use a light skim of filler on it.

any critasism or advice welcome
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Topblag
- Old Skooler

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- Location: Fife - You got a problem with that ?
You're doing well fella, good work.
I'm planning to do a welding course over the winter at nightschool. I'm keen to learn good habits early to avoid setting any of my E30s on fire.....
I've got a nice set of Nogaro BBS's that'd look good on that cabby. Was planning to use them myself until Rav entranced me with his Alpinas
I'm planning to do a welding course over the winter at nightschool. I'm keen to learn good habits early to avoid setting any of my E30s on fire.....
I've got a nice set of Nogaro BBS's that'd look good on that cabby. Was planning to use them myself until Rav entranced me with his Alpinas
1990 325i Cab auto in Alpine White II
1988 Alpina C2.5 moredoor in Black, 71k
1990 325ix, moredoor auto in Laser Blue. 51k
1984 Hartge H35 in Black
2004 996 C4S in Silver 43k manual
2006 Audi S6 V10 in Black 58k
1988 Alpina C2.5 moredoor in Black, 71k
1990 325ix, moredoor auto in Laser Blue. 51k
1984 Hartge H35 in Black
2004 996 C4S in Silver 43k manual
2006 Audi S6 V10 in Black 58k
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Alex
- Married to the E30 Zone

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- Joined: Fri Feb 11, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Johannesburg, South Africa
regarding the boot cubby compartment is it best to buy a new one from bmw and weld it in same goes for the lower side panel?
i imagine welding a new panel in would probably be easier than putting a patch in???????
i imagine welding a new panel in would probably be easier than putting a patch in???????
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Alex
- Married to the E30 Zone

- Posts: 22666
- Joined: Fri Feb 11, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Johannesburg, South Africa
Started doing the door shut and above sill. again not the neatest thing but i'am really pleased as i think it may be an almost invisible repair when done. Maby
need to have a think about the side strip as there are two panels at the top of the hole that need welding
started by cutting rot out


sills look good

apart from the inner arch

made a plate and welded it in

bit more welding and a load of grinding later


More welding ad grinding

tonns of zinc primer making sure it all seeps through the gaps

ready for next template, looks a mess but with a light skim of filler i hope it will be more or less invisable. the "extra bit" on my patch at the bottom needs grinding off

outer bit will look something like this

PS: never fill your sills with waxoil before welding

need to have a think about the side strip as there are two panels at the top of the hole that need welding
started by cutting rot out


sills look good

apart from the inner arch

made a plate and welded it in

bit more welding and a load of grinding later


More welding ad grinding

tonns of zinc primer making sure it all seeps through the gaps

ready for next template, looks a mess but with a light skim of filler i hope it will be more or less invisable. the "extra bit" on my patch at the bottom needs grinding off

outer bit will look something like this

PS: never fill your sills with waxoil before welding
