After fitting new batteries the tacho bounced about and the idiot vac' gauge stuck so out with it and checked/redid the soldering and replaced in clocks, tacho now perfect and idiot vac' gauge perfect BUT battery voltage only 13.3, sometimes 13.6 maximum. (I have a mini volt meter in the radio fader slot. Looks like I will be taking it apart, again.
Still getting a flat battery after a week standing though, thank heaven for booster pack.
Left fog light comes on with sidelights which is weird too, probably an earth fault. (both work when switched on).
Parasitic drain
Moderator: martauto
Maybe you should have your battery checked---a battery constantly going flat and being recharged shortens its life considerably as well as eventually shortening the life of your alternator having to charge up a weak battery which causes it to overheat.
- e30-wheels
- E30 Zone Newbie

- Posts: 103
- Joined: Wed Aug 17, 2011 11:00 pm
- Location: South Coast
Had the same problem with the light fault , mine was the switch badly corroded , Not started my car for four weeks battery voltage is about the same as yours and car started ok sounds like your battery is ok, have you checked the parasitic drain on the system.Blanca wrote: ↑Fri Nov 19, 2021 11:31 amAfter fitting new batteries the tacho bounced about and the idiot vac' gauge stuck so out with it and checked/redid the soldering and replaced in clocks, tacho now perfect and idiot vac' gauge perfect BUT battery voltage only 13.3, sometimes 13.6 maximum. (I have a mini volt meter in the radio fader slot. Looks like I will be taking it apart, again.
Still getting a flat battery after a week standing though, thank heaven for booster pack.
Left fog light comes on with sidelights which is weird too, probably an earth fault. (both work when switched on).
- Blanca
- E30 Zone Regular

- Posts: 299
- Joined: Mon Aug 17, 2020 1:26 pm
- Location: Estepona, Spain
- Contact:
Fixed the lights, had the left fog plugged into the sidelight socket, they are the same. all working well now.
It that one for DRLs or running lights?
Parasitic test done and fuse 22 was the culprit at 1.2A. or about 10W.
Also pulled the box by the antenna as the brake light fault keeps coming on, didn't find any problems or crappy connections.
Anyone know if there is a connector for the high level brake light under the shelf or seat?
It that one for DRLs or running lights?
Parasitic test done and fuse 22 was the culprit at 1.2A. or about 10W.
Also pulled the box by the antenna as the brake light fault keeps coming on, didn't find any problems or crappy connections.
Anyone know if there is a connector for the high level brake light under the shelf or seat?

All comments by me should be taken in the right sprite, Jack Daniels is fine.
- fixedwheelnut
- E30 Zone Regular

- Posts: 907
- Joined: Sun Nov 20, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: South East London
When you say the brake light fault keeps coming on but they are ok you do know that every time you start the car the brake warning comes on the check control as a self test, so when you press the brake pedal it goes out as a test every time you start the car.Blanca wrote: ↑Sat Nov 27, 2021 12:06 pmFixed the lights, had the left fog plugged into the sidelight socket, they are the same. all working well now.
It that one for DRLs or running lights?
Parasitic test done and fuse 22 was the culprit at 1.2A. or about 10W.
Also pulled the box by the antenna as the brake light fault keeps coming on, didn't find any problems or crappy connections.
Anyone know if there is a connector for the high level brake light under the shelf or seat?
Fuse 22 feeds grey / yellow wire to the light switch for left lights and the active check control unit
- Blanca
- E30 Zone Regular

- Posts: 299
- Joined: Mon Aug 17, 2020 1:26 pm
- Location: Estepona, Spain
- Contact:
Thanks but that I knew, this is after driving a bit. I flick the ignition switch off and on again, dab the brake and off goes the light. sometimes it came on again and I just cancel the dash warning as I know there is nothing wrong. did about 50Km yesterday and no light came on so I may have fixed it.fixedwheelnut wrote: ↑Sat Nov 27, 2021 12:20 pmWhen you say the brake light fault keeps coming on but they are ok you do know that every time you start the car the brake warning comes on the check control as a self test, so when you press the brake pedal it goes out as a test every time you start the car.Blanca wrote: ↑Sat Nov 27, 2021 12:06 pmFixed the lights, had the left fog plugged into the sidelight socket, they are the same. all working well now.
It that one for DRLs or running lights?
Parasitic test done and fuse 22 was the culprit at 1.2A. or about 10W.
Also pulled the box by the antenna as the brake light fault keeps coming on, didn't find any problems or crappy connections.
Anyone know if there is a connector for the high level brake light under the shelf or seat?
Fuse 22 feeds grey / yellow wire to the light switch for left lights and the active check control unit
I thought it would be the usual culprit, fuse 21 but nope, 22, so I need to dig deeper as it is a strange one as there are no lights on anywhere, the glove box and the boot have been converted to LED a long time ago.

All comments by me should be taken in the right sprite, Jack Daniels is fine.
