no worries. i'm not heading that far north until i'm on my way to santa pod i'm afraid. you're welcome to pop over any time over the weekend thoughTheo325 wrote:Gareth, if possible I'ld like to get the catch tank off you and have a play to see whether it will fit nicely somewhere in the engine bay. Don't suppose you're up my neck of the woods anytime soon?
E30 with SR20DET
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gareth
- E30 Zone Team Member
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Sole founder of Fe2O3-12V it's a lifestyle
LSD rebuilding / modification services provided, PM for details
LSD rebuilding / modification services provided, PM for details
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SteMarsden
- E30 Zone Regular
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Try Merecedes Sprinter for wiper mounted washers also..... Awesome build too it has to be said! 
BMW E30 318i ex PBMWC track car
2011 VW Passat Est
2011 VW Passat Est
Mercedes Vito as well for washers.SteMarsden wrote:Try Merecedes Sprinter for wiper mounted washers also..... Awesome build too it has to be said!
Liking your car a lot as well.
Parts for sale - http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... 45#2733745
Thanks for the comments, in the end I decided against washer jets mounted to the wiper arms as I didn't fancy having hoses coming up through the scuttle as it would look a bit crap. I bought these landrover ones which i'll fit in the gutter at the front of the scuttle, I just hope the bonnet clears them.
Suppose I should quickly update this actually. I've have a very nice stainless exhaust made up by powerspeed - it's a single 2.5" pipe and is routed in such a way that the ground clearance isn't too bad. The downpipe is 3" which goes down to 2.5" via a flexible joint then it's straight through to the large repackable back box with twin 3" tail pipes. It's lovely and quiet - 91db when measured in the usual way (2/3 revs etc etc)
I stil can't get the tacho working - I've been using the following device as used by a guy in NZ.
A slightly more significant setback has also occurred ”“ the turbo is bolloxed. So that has been ripped out and I’ll replace it on the weekend. Shame really as I had an MOT booked for tomorrow and intended on being at Santa Pod on Sunday.
I stil can't get the tacho working - I've been using the following device as used by a guy in NZ.
The first time I used it briefly worked, but not consistently. I then decided it was dead and replaced the transistor but it continues to do nothing. Anyone got any suggestions on how to get it working?The tacho output from the Nissan computer needs to be boosted from 5v to 12v to run the BMW factory tacho, this can be done with two 4.7k resistors and a BC557 PNP transistor as shown below. The red wire is 12v, black wire is earth, blue with black stripe wire is the signal from the Nissan computer, and the blue wire is the one that goes to the BMW tacho (The tracks on the board in the photo run virtically).
A slightly more significant setback has also occurred ”“ the turbo is bolloxed. So that has been ripped out and I’ll replace it on the weekend. Shame really as I had an MOT booked for tomorrow and intended on being at Santa Pod on Sunday.
Theo, I've sketched out the circuit from your pic and cannot see how it will function as a 5V to 12V level converter. It's either a flawed design to begin with or it was assembled incorrectly. As it stands, the BC557 transistor will be on (by sinking current from the BMW tacho) regardless of whether the Nissan ECU output is 0V or 5V 
????
I'd suggest that you use the following circuit:
The circuit works as follows: When the output of the Nissan ECU goes to 5V it switches on transistor Q1, which in turn switches on transistor Q2, which outputs 12V to the BMW tacho. Similarly, when the output of the Nissan ECU goes to 0V it switches off transistor Q1, which in turn switches off transistor Q2, which outputs 0V to the BMW tacho. The circuit therefore functions as a simple 5V to 12V level shifter. Be sure to take your 12V supply to the cicuit from a fused supply after your ignition switch, otherwise the circuit could end up being on the whole time.
Take note that this circuit will not work if the tacho output from your Nissan ECU is what's termed "open collector", so I am taking you at your word that the output of your Nissan ECU is an active 5V output
You'll see I have also drawn you a little pic of the BC546 and BC556 transistor pin-outs (Collector, Base and Emitter) so that you get them in the right way round.
This should do you just fine.
Geoff
???? I'd suggest that you use the following circuit:
The circuit works as follows: When the output of the Nissan ECU goes to 5V it switches on transistor Q1, which in turn switches on transistor Q2, which outputs 12V to the BMW tacho. Similarly, when the output of the Nissan ECU goes to 0V it switches off transistor Q1, which in turn switches off transistor Q2, which outputs 0V to the BMW tacho. The circuit therefore functions as a simple 5V to 12V level shifter. Be sure to take your 12V supply to the cicuit from a fused supply after your ignition switch, otherwise the circuit could end up being on the whole time.
Take note that this circuit will not work if the tacho output from your Nissan ECU is what's termed "open collector", so I am taking you at your word that the output of your Nissan ECU is an active 5V output
You'll see I have also drawn you a little pic of the BC546 and BC556 transistor pin-outs (Collector, Base and Emitter) so that you get them in the right way round.
This should do you just fine.
What happened?Theo325 wrote:A slightly more significant setback has also occurred ”“ the turbo is bolloxed. So that has been ripped out and I’ll replace it on the weekend. Shame really as I had an MOT booked for tomorrow and intended on being at Santa Pod on Sunday.
Geoff
"It is amazing how many drivers, even at the Formula-1 level, think that brakes are for slowing the car down." - Mario Andretti
Wow, thanks Geoff - i'll give that circuit a try. It's very kind of you to take time to draw that out for me. Strange that the tacho very briefly worked with the previous circuit 
Turbo is pissing oil into the compressor housing so seems to have reached the end of it's life. Rebuilds on a ball bearing turbo are rather pricey so I've sourced a standard low mileage T28 to use instead.
Turbo is pissing oil into the compressor housing so seems to have reached the end of it's life. Rebuilds on a ball bearing turbo are rather pricey so I've sourced a standard low mileage T28 to use instead.
Darn seals, never do seem to last. So you had a GT28R in there? Nice - the genuine and original disco potato. Pity about the seals. Don't go giving up on it though, I'm sure that you'll want to rebuild it one day - would still be cheaper than a new GT28R and that's a damn good turbo. I'm running a GT32 on my car.
Hope the circuit works for you. Can't say I know why your first one worked briefly. Just hope your Tacho input or ECU output isn't damaged. By the looks of that circuit I don't think the ECU output would be hurt, but I really don't like the idea of trying to sink current from the BMW tacho input, like that circuit was doing.
Hope the circuit works for you. Can't say I know why your first one worked briefly. Just hope your Tacho input or ECU output isn't damaged. By the looks of that circuit I don't think the ECU output would be hurt, but I really don't like the idea of trying to sink current from the BMW tacho input, like that circuit was doing.
"It is amazing how many drivers, even at the Formula-1 level, think that brakes are for slowing the car down." - Mario Andretti
The turbo failure is a real shame, I had briefly considered going crazy and getting a gt2871r...but then I realised I'm broke. I'll hang on to the gt28r, hopefully in the not too distant future I'll get it rebuilt and fit it when I go to 'stage 2' (z32 MAF, 555cc injectors & remap)
Will you pushing the GT32 to it's limits on your car? I can't begin to imagine that car with 400+bhp!
Fingers crossed my tacho isn't fried - I do have a spare though, so wouldn't be the end of the world.
Will you pushing the GT32 to it's limits on your car? I can't begin to imagine that car with 400+bhp!
Fingers crossed my tacho isn't fried - I do have a spare though, so wouldn't be the end of the world.
OK, I follow, your broken turbo must be a GT2860R then? GT2871R is popular on the 240SX and Sylvia and would be the way to go. May be worthwhile fixing up the GT2860, selling it on and putting the money towards a GT2871R? Be warned though that the 2871 will take longer to spool up due to the larger turbine A/R of 0.86.
One would assume the GT3267 is a bigger turbo (since 32 follows 30 follows 28 ) but it isn't necessarily so. The compressor exducer diameter is 67mm, compared to the 71mm of the GT2871. More specifically though, the A/R of the GT3267 compressor is only 0.48, compared to 0.60 of both the GT2860and GT2871. The significant effect that this has is to permit greater boost at lower values of mass air flow through the compressor (assuming the turbine is matched to drive it). This was the whole reason I opted for a GT3267, since a 2000cc engine really doesn't flow much air (unless heavily boosted and intercooled) compared to larger engines. The turbine, on the other hand, is slightly larger than a GT28, with a wheel diameter of 64mm compared to 54mm, but once again with an A/R of only 0.69, which sits midway between the GT2860 and GT2871. Most importantly, the turbine chokes at 20lbs/min mass air flow, which is ideal for my application.
As she is setup at the monent she boosts to 1.5bar at roughly 3800rpm and holds steady through to 7500rpm, at which point she's flowing roughly 33lbs/min of air and is good for 335hp. This is also the reason for the jumbo size custom intercooler, without which the density of the air drops badly and, regardless of the actual "boost" value the mass of air drawn into the engine peaks at around 28lbs/min. I won't be pushing my 3SGTE engine to 400hp as I have neither the desire to die in my car, nor the budget for monthly rebuilds
One would assume the GT3267 is a bigger turbo (since 32 follows 30 follows 28 ) but it isn't necessarily so. The compressor exducer diameter is 67mm, compared to the 71mm of the GT2871. More specifically though, the A/R of the GT3267 compressor is only 0.48, compared to 0.60 of both the GT2860and GT2871. The significant effect that this has is to permit greater boost at lower values of mass air flow through the compressor (assuming the turbine is matched to drive it). This was the whole reason I opted for a GT3267, since a 2000cc engine really doesn't flow much air (unless heavily boosted and intercooled) compared to larger engines. The turbine, on the other hand, is slightly larger than a GT28, with a wheel diameter of 64mm compared to 54mm, but once again with an A/R of only 0.69, which sits midway between the GT2860 and GT2871. Most importantly, the turbine chokes at 20lbs/min mass air flow, which is ideal for my application.
As she is setup at the monent she boosts to 1.5bar at roughly 3800rpm and holds steady through to 7500rpm, at which point she's flowing roughly 33lbs/min of air and is good for 335hp. This is also the reason for the jumbo size custom intercooler, without which the density of the air drops badly and, regardless of the actual "boost" value the mass of air drawn into the engine peaks at around 28lbs/min. I won't be pushing my 3SGTE engine to 400hp as I have neither the desire to die in my car, nor the budget for monthly rebuilds
"It is amazing how many drivers, even at the Formula-1 level, think that brakes are for slowing the car down." - Mario Andretti
In all honesty I have no idea what exact model the turbo is! I know it's just a standard turbo from the S15 silvia, seems to be refered to as the gt28r on the Datsun forum. The gt2871r is a distant dream, though I'm not sure the car needs more than 300bhp (which is about the limit of the standard turbo from what I gather) It's only on 205mm wide rear tyres so I have rather a small footprint.
I had to laugh at your final remark, although your car must be sufficiently hairy at a mere 335bhp.
Anyway - I sourced a standard S14 turbo and fitted that, and it's alive again. Took it for a little test drive and it shuffles along nicely. At present I've got a horrid dump valve which vents to atmosphere and makes lots of lame noise. The car pops and bangs and spits out blue flames when you lift off. I'll be fitting a recirc valve to the Intercooler cold pipe and recirculating the charge back into the AFM trunk.
The brakes seem good, although I only really did one hard brake application (I was more interested to see how the car sped up rather than how it slowed down!). I look forward to really trying them out in anger.
The tacho is........................still not working. I tried Geoff's circuit but with no success. I tried it with 3 different tachometers and each one refused to work.
Geoff, could you confirm I've done the circuit properly please?
Q1 = BC546 transistor
Q2 = BC556 transistor
R1 = 4k7 resistor
R2 = 10k resistor
R3 = 100k resistor
R4 = 2k2 resistor
I have 7 horizontal rows, row 1 being at the top, 7 at the bottom.
12v positive is 1
Negative is 7
Nissan in is 4
BMW out is 3
Q1 C 5, B 6, E 7
Q2 E 1, B 2, C 3
R1 between 4 and 6
R2 between 2 and 5
R3 between 1 and 2
R4 between 3 and 7
I would dearly love you to tell me that is wrong, so I can quickly change it round and get the bastard working!
I had to laugh at your final remark, although your car must be sufficiently hairy at a mere 335bhp.
Anyway - I sourced a standard S14 turbo and fitted that, and it's alive again. Took it for a little test drive and it shuffles along nicely. At present I've got a horrid dump valve which vents to atmosphere and makes lots of lame noise. The car pops and bangs and spits out blue flames when you lift off. I'll be fitting a recirc valve to the Intercooler cold pipe and recirculating the charge back into the AFM trunk.
The brakes seem good, although I only really did one hard brake application (I was more interested to see how the car sped up rather than how it slowed down!). I look forward to really trying them out in anger.
The tacho is........................still not working. I tried Geoff's circuit but with no success. I tried it with 3 different tachometers and each one refused to work.
Geoff, could you confirm I've done the circuit properly please?
Q1 = BC546 transistor
Q2 = BC556 transistor
R1 = 4k7 resistor
R2 = 10k resistor
R3 = 100k resistor
R4 = 2k2 resistor
I have 7 horizontal rows, row 1 being at the top, 7 at the bottom.
12v positive is 1
Negative is 7
Nissan in is 4
BMW out is 3
Q1 C 5, B 6, E 7
Q2 E 1, B 2, C 3
R1 between 4 and 6
R2 between 2 and 5
R3 between 1 and 2
R4 between 3 and 7
I would dearly love you to tell me that is wrong, so I can quickly change it round and get the bastard working!
Sorry to hear it didn't work Theo. I'll have to draw out what you have described above before I can answer your question, then I'll ge back to you.
You can test your circuit very easily though. Put 5v (6V from four 1.5V cells would do) on its input (where the Nssan ECU would otherwise connect) and measure the output (where the tacho would otherwise connect) with a voltmeter to see if you get 12V. Then remove the input and the output should fall back to 0V. If it doesn't behave this way then you have a problem. Obviously the circuit should be powere fron 12V while you try this.
Are you 100% certain that the tacho output of your Nissan ECU is a 5V signal as you described in your earlier post? meaning that you would measure 5V when the ECU output goes "high", and measure 0V when it goes "low". Most ECU's that I have worked with have what are termed "open collector" outputs, meaning that their output is like a switch that when "on" is connected to 0V, and when "off" is floating (connected to nothing). The circuit I posted above will not work with an "open collector" output as it stands, but can be easily modified to make it do so. Please try and confirm for me the "mode" of your ECU tacho output while I draw out what you have written above. A photo of your circuit would be handy.
You can test your circuit very easily though. Put 5v (6V from four 1.5V cells would do) on its input (where the Nssan ECU would otherwise connect) and measure the output (where the tacho would otherwise connect) with a voltmeter to see if you get 12V. Then remove the input and the output should fall back to 0V. If it doesn't behave this way then you have a problem. Obviously the circuit should be powere fron 12V while you try this.
Are you 100% certain that the tacho output of your Nissan ECU is a 5V signal as you described in your earlier post? meaning that you would measure 5V when the ECU output goes "high", and measure 0V when it goes "low". Most ECU's that I have worked with have what are termed "open collector" outputs, meaning that their output is like a switch that when "on" is connected to 0V, and when "off" is floating (connected to nothing). The circuit I posted above will not work with an "open collector" output as it stands, but can be easily modified to make it do so. Please try and confirm for me the "mode" of your ECU tacho output while I draw out what you have written above. A photo of your circuit would be handy.
"It is amazing how many drivers, even at the Formula-1 level, think that brakes are for slowing the car down." - Mario Andretti
Hmmmm, already spotted something. Your R2, R3 and R4 are wrong and your circuit is missing R5. Definitely won't work as you have it. Hope that this is good news to you and you come right soon. Also, be careful not to solder tracks together on your project/vero board as can so easily happen.
"It is amazing how many drivers, even at the Formula-1 level, think that brakes are for slowing the car down." - Mario Andretti
Hi Geoff, it is indeed open collector! I've just found this out after trawling through posts on the Nissan forum where alot of people struggle to get the tacho working when they fit the SR20 to the S13 which normally has the CA engine. Apparently they overcome this problem by fitting a 10k resistor between 12v and the ECU tacho signal, no idea whether or not this will work with the BMW rev counter though.
If that resistor doesn't do the trick, how would should I modify the circuit I have?
If that resistor doesn't do the trick, how would should I modify the circuit I have?
Aha! I wondered about that. I'll draw up a new circuit for you ASAP. You'll be able to keep your current circuit as is, but will have to pull a few components out (Q1 and surroundings). Not a big deal, should have you up an running in a Jiffy. Also, look at putting those resistors right, else the rest of the circuit won't work.
"It is amazing how many drivers, even at the Formula-1 level, think that brakes are for slowing the car down." - Mario Andretti
All in all, a resounding failure - my specialty.GeoffBob wrote:Hmmmm, already spotted something. Your R2, R3 and R4 are wrong and your circuit is missing R5. Definitely won't work as you have it. Hope that this is good news to you and you come right soon. Also, be careful not to solder tracks together on your project/vero board as can so easily happen.
LOL, don't worry about it Theo, happens to the best of us.Theo325 wrote:All in all, a resounding failure - my specialty.
Right, for your BMW Tacho to work with an "open collector" ECU output you need to modify your circuit as follows:
To do this, simply pull out R1, R2 and Q1, and connect your ECU input to the bottom end of R3. That should do for you just fine.
"It is amazing how many drivers, even at the Formula-1 level, think that brakes are for slowing the car down." - Mario Andretti
Brilliant, if the car was at my house I would be plugging the the soldering iron in as we speak, alas it isn't and I'll have to try this out tomorrow evening.
As I'm evidently a simpleton, can we just clarify that I need 5 rows, 1 = 12v, 3 = tacho out, 4 = signal in, 5 = earth. Transistor = e1, b2, c3 100k resistor between 1 & 2, 10k resistor between 2&4, 2k2 resistor between 3 &5.
As I'm evidently a simpleton, can we just clarify that I need 5 rows, 1 = 12v, 3 = tacho out, 4 = signal in, 5 = earth. Transistor = e1, b2, c3 100k resistor between 1 & 2, 10k resistor between 2&4, 2k2 resistor between 3 &5.
Last edited by Theo on Fri Sep 25, 2009 12:43 am, edited 1 time in total.
Confirmed Theo, that should do it. I'll keep an eye out tomorrow in case you have any other problems, but I believe that you will come right.
"It is amazing how many drivers, even at the Formula-1 level, think that brakes are for slowing the car down." - Mario Andretti
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gareth
- E30 Zone Team Member
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- Joined: Tue Jan 11, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: hastings, east sussex
Or in top gear fashion... ambitious but rubbishTheo325 wrote:All in all, a resounding failure - my specialty.
glad you got the fecker running though
Sole founder of Fe2O3-12V it's a lifestyle
LSD rebuilding / modification services provided, PM for details
LSD rebuilding / modification services provided, PM for details
Compared to some of my epic fails this is nothing!!!
Jeremy Clarkson wrote:...but it drives the front wheels. Theee wrooong wheels!
da4x4turbo wrote:I raced a vivaro on the motorway once in a 318is.... and lost!!!
If it's the one with the 3 bolt holes on the compressor outlet and 2 bolt holes on the compressor inlet, then its a GT2560R, which is the OEM turbo on the SR20DET.Theo325 wrote:In all honesty I have no idea what exact model the turbo is! I know it's just a standard turbo from the S15 silvia, seems to be refered to as the gt28r on the Datsun forum. The gt2871r is a distant dream, though I'm not sure the car needs more than 300bhp (which is about the limit of the standard turbo from what I gather) It's only on 205mm wide rear tyres so I have rather a small footprint.
The GT2860RS is the most popular upgrade on the SR20DET (no bolts on the compressor inlet and outlet) and is the one they call the "disco potato". The disco potato turbine is available in "2 flavours", one with A/R=0.64 and the other with A/R=0.86. For a daily driver I would recommend the A/R=0.64 hands down, but for racing I would most certainly fit the A/R=0.86. When you said you had a GT28R I assumed you had one of these two, and it is to this turbo that I am sure they refer on the Nissan forums.
It's unlikely, but you may have had a GT2860R, which despite the similar name is a very different turbo the GT2860RS. The GT2860R has 2 bolt holes on both the compressor inlet and outlet. For a much more serious performance upgrade you could consider the GT2871R, but I would personally suggest that you look at buying a GT2860RS with turbine A/R=0.86 for your application. It won't be cheap, but it will put one hell of smile on your face (up until the point where you lose traction and spin off into the barrier
)WRT tyres: I'm running 245/40/17's on the rear of my car and they still aren't wide enough. Fortunately I do not have issues with E30 wheel arches (since I don't have E30 wheel arches
).Great stuff Theo, pleased to hear that she's drivable! I suspect that your ECU isn't cutting your fuel as soon as you lift off. No worries, that bit of extra fuel helps draw heat out of the combustion chamber and also helps keep the turbo spooled up. Personally I love those flames, but others don't. I also like the noisy dump valves (the ones that chirp, not whoosh) as they remind me so much of the height of Group-B rally (which I still mourn the loss of till this dayTheo325 wrote:Anyway - I sourced a standard S14 turbo and fitted that, and it's alive again. Took it for a little test drive and it shuffles along nicely. At present I've got a horrid dump valve which vents to atmosphere and makes lots of lame noise. The car pops and bangs and spits out blue flames when you lift off. I'll be fitting a recirc valve to the Intercooler cold pipe and recirculating the charge back into the AFM trunk.
) I have a group B "bonnet budgie" on my car and I love it to bits.I should bloody well hope that they are good, all the effort you put in! If they are anything like mine you'll have to follow the bed-in procedure before they really deliver the goods. Notice how there is zero travel on the pedal before they start to takeTheo325 wrote:The brakes seem good, although I only really did one hard brake application (I was more interested to see how the car sped up rather than how it slowed down!). I look forward to really trying them out in anger.
"It is amazing how many drivers, even at the Formula-1 level, think that brakes are for slowing the car down." - Mario Andretti
Interesting info on turbos Geoff, i've heard of people moan about lag with the .86 turbine but I suppose this isn't so much of an issue on a track car as it's constantly at high revs anyway. Might give a bit of a hairy power delivery though, especially in the wet.
I fitted the new tacho circuit at lunchtime and it works! Really chuffed with that, thanks alot for coming up with the solution. That said, I'm not sure it's working 100% accurately. When I initially ran the car I had a 4 cylinder coding plug from a 318is in the instrument cluster and the car idled steadily at a supposed 1500rpm - I'm fairly certain that it's actually significantly less than this!
I then put a 6 cylinder coding plug in the cluster and it showed a steady idle of around 850rpm. Feeling rather pleased with myself I took the car out for a test drive and it would hit the rev limited at around 5000rpm, 2000rpm short of what one would expect. My feeling is that the problem is an under reading tacho rather than an engine short on revs, I was accelerating through third gear too long for it to only have reached 5k rpm -although it's hard to tell for sure on a car you've never really driven before
I suppose the way to tell for sure would be to calculate what speed the car should be traveling at in a certain gear at a certain road speed and then see if the instruments display the same figures. The car has 215/50/15 rear tyres, and the final drive is 3.64:1, third gear ratio is 1.308.
I rekon on the following figures for third gear:
2047rpm@30mph
2729rpm@40mph
3412rpm@50mph
4094rpm@60mph
4776rpm@70mph
5459rpm@80mph
6140rpm@90mph
6823rpm@100mph
I need to find satnav to get an accurate speed reading from, then I can do the test. Very annoyingly I'm off to Greece tomorrow for a couple of weeks so there will be no more playing with cars for a fortnight. Actually, that's not true - I've got a heap of shit 325i touring out there which needs a couple of bits doing to it.
I fitted the new tacho circuit at lunchtime and it works! Really chuffed with that, thanks alot for coming up with the solution. That said, I'm not sure it's working 100% accurately. When I initially ran the car I had a 4 cylinder coding plug from a 318is in the instrument cluster and the car idled steadily at a supposed 1500rpm - I'm fairly certain that it's actually significantly less than this!
I then put a 6 cylinder coding plug in the cluster and it showed a steady idle of around 850rpm. Feeling rather pleased with myself I took the car out for a test drive and it would hit the rev limited at around 5000rpm, 2000rpm short of what one would expect. My feeling is that the problem is an under reading tacho rather than an engine short on revs, I was accelerating through third gear too long for it to only have reached 5k rpm -although it's hard to tell for sure on a car you've never really driven before
I suppose the way to tell for sure would be to calculate what speed the car should be traveling at in a certain gear at a certain road speed and then see if the instruments display the same figures. The car has 215/50/15 rear tyres, and the final drive is 3.64:1, third gear ratio is 1.308.
I rekon on the following figures for third gear:
2047rpm@30mph
2729rpm@40mph
3412rpm@50mph
4094rpm@60mph
4776rpm@70mph
5459rpm@80mph
6140rpm@90mph
6823rpm@100mph
I need to find satnav to get an accurate speed reading from, then I can do the test. Very annoyingly I'm off to Greece tomorrow for a couple of weeks so there will be no more playing with cars for a fortnight. Actually, that's not true - I've got a heap of shit 325i touring out there which needs a couple of bits doing to it.
Yes, the 0.86 A/R turbine on the GT2860RS is slower to spool up and will require that your revs be kept above 4000rpm to be competitive. I have exactly this problem with my GT3267.
Glad to hear the tacho circuit worked - well sort of anyway. That circuit should either work or not work. I see no way that it could effect the accuracy of the tacho, so I suspect that may be an altogether different issue (faulty tacho?). I would have thought that it would work correctly with the 4 cylinder coding plug. This is most unusual - unless for some reason the tacho output from the Nissan ECU is inverted ("on" when it should be "off" - and vice versa). I should have thought that Nissan did things similarly to Toyota, but I could be wrong.
If you don't come right with the circuit as is (meaning that its definitely not a faulty tachometer) then let me know and I'll throw a different design together for you when you return from Greece. I think we almost have this one licked.
Have a great time in Greece, lucky bastard
Glad to hear the tacho circuit worked - well sort of anyway. That circuit should either work or not work. I see no way that it could effect the accuracy of the tacho, so I suspect that may be an altogether different issue (faulty tacho?). I would have thought that it would work correctly with the 4 cylinder coding plug. This is most unusual - unless for some reason the tacho output from the Nissan ECU is inverted ("on" when it should be "off" - and vice versa). I should have thought that Nissan did things similarly to Toyota, but I could be wrong.
If you don't come right with the circuit as is (meaning that its definitely not a faulty tachometer) then let me know and I'll throw a different design together for you when you return from Greece. I think we almost have this one licked.
Have a great time in Greece, lucky bastard
"It is amazing how many drivers, even at the Formula-1 level, think that brakes are for slowing the car down." - Mario Andretti
-
gareth
- E30 Zone Team Member
- Posts: 11009
- Joined: Tue Jan 11, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: hastings, east sussex
lucky fecker!
I have a decent tomtom you can borrow to check things over if you like theo, of course i'll have to be present when it's used to ensure it's safely at all times **cough**passenger ride**cough**ahem...
I have a decent tomtom you can borrow to check things over if you like theo, of course i'll have to be present when it's used to ensure it's safely at all times
**cough**passenger ride**cough**ahem... Sole founder of Fe2O3-12V it's a lifestyle
LSD rebuilding / modification services provided, PM for details
LSD rebuilding / modification services provided, PM for details
Any chance of a pic of how the exhaust company did the section that goes under the rear beam? mines abit low and could do with some inspiration of how to change it
You should never underestimate the predictability of stupidity
M42 Supercharged 285bhp + M3 6speed box
I'll undertake the necessary testing when I'm back to try and get to the route of what the problem is, now that I've thought about it some more I'm thinking that maybe it is actually a premature rev limiter. I think I was doing 80ish, not 100ish.
Gareth, thanks for volunteering your satnav services - I might take you up on it!
Appletree, I'm afraid I don't have any photos of the exhaust so it will be a couple of weeks until I can take some. It's slightly vibrating against the heatshield at present, the Birmingham spanner will be called into action to massage the heatshield into a better shape.
Gareth, thanks for volunteering your satnav services - I might take you up on it!
Appletree, I'm afraid I don't have any photos of the exhaust so it will be a couple of weeks until I can take some. It's slightly vibrating against the heatshield at present, the Birmingham spanner will be called into action to massage the heatshield into a better shape.
What news Theo? Not still in the holiday mood are we? Time to make hay while the sun shines. Not too much of that this time of year eh Would be interested to hear how you are progressing.
Regards
Geoff
Would be interested to hear how you are progressing.Regards
Geoff
"It is amazing how many drivers, even at the Formula-1 level, think that brakes are for slowing the car down." - Mario Andretti