S14 into RHD 325i into LHD 316i
Moderator: martauto
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Demlotcrew
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It would be a real bonus if it fits, its a great addition to the build!
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ross_jsy
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Cheers Andrew.Demlotcrew wrote:I use these for exhaust studs - £7 for all that you need!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/310236698283? ... 1439.l2649
Mike, I have a horrible feeling that the sump will have to come off againthe steering rack will foul it.
I hope not!
Andrew
Emailed him, need them is M7 x 42 for an m50. Hopefully he can supply as it's a far easier solution.
Ross
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Mikey_Boy
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That's excellent info Andrew - sounds like you are talking from bitter experience - I just found this:
http://www.elephantmotorsports.com/images/get/525/.jpg
And this:
http://www.elephantmotorsports.com/images/get/528/.jpg
Which shows the reason why the MS DTM sump won't fit RHD - the extra baffle protrudes WAY over the upper sump line on the exhaust (drivers side) which will foul the steering rack pinion.
Mine is a VAC item:
http://store.vacmotorsports.com/vac---s ... -p391.aspx
The pic shows that the 'full width' baffle extension is much shorter - when installed on the engine, the 'overhang' is about 10-12mm.
Either way, it still has to be tried to be see if it fits - I was very close to buying an MS DTM item so hopefully my luck won't run out...
http://www.elephantmotorsports.com/images/get/525/.jpg
And this:
http://www.elephantmotorsports.com/images/get/528/.jpg
Which shows the reason why the MS DTM sump won't fit RHD - the extra baffle protrudes WAY over the upper sump line on the exhaust (drivers side) which will foul the steering rack pinion.
Mine is a VAC item:
http://store.vacmotorsports.com/vac---s ... -p391.aspx
The pic shows that the 'full width' baffle extension is much shorter - when installed on the engine, the 'overhang' is about 10-12mm.
Either way, it still has to be tried to be see if it fits - I was very close to buying an MS DTM item so hopefully my luck won't run out...
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Demlotcrew
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Im looking forward to seeing it in! I have always had my eye on the VAC one, its a very nice piece! 
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Mikey_Boy
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Those ebay studs look good!ross_jsy wrote:Cheers Andrew.Demlotcrew wrote:I use these for exhaust studs - £7 for all that you need!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/310236698283? ... 1439.l2649
Mike, I have a horrible feeling that the sump will have to come off again
I hope not!
Andrew
Emailed him, need them is M7 x 42 for an m50. Hopefully he can supply as it's a far easier solution.
Ross
I went for the US ones as I was clicking lots of other parts on their site...
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Demlotcrew
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I have used them for many many years now, the quality is exceptional, very nice finish and they have lasted for as long as i can remember. I have tried a few suppliers, but these seem to have the strongest metal composition as the allen head takes a lot more abuse than the others before it deforms.
I keep these in stock all the time, easy to fit when one has worked loose (as the case with many S14's).
Andrew
I keep these in stock all the time, easy to fit when one has worked loose (as the case with many S14's).
Andrew
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Mikey_Boy
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More progress...!
Just a couple of jobs to do on the engine - first up is valve clearances. As I have fitted a new cylinder head, all the valve clearances were quite wide, so another expensive trip to the stealer saw a bag full of shims:
Take one wide valve clearance:
Use correct tool:
Compress bucket and extract old shim with the power of The Force and a magnet:
And repeat many times...
I have set exhaust clearances to 12 thou and inlets to 15 thou which is 1 thou wide - theory being that the racier inlet cam will not only smack the inlet valve open harder, but it also smacks it shut harder too, which *may* mean the valve clearances close up a little on that side with a few miles - we shall see - I have seen this in the past the exhaust cam *should* be OK as that's standard and valve accelerations should be have been well thought out by BMW - not saying Schrick are careless, they just have different priorities!
The only other jobs to do on the engine are fit the clutch and synchronise the throttles - the latter I will probably do in the car
Now we are into the realm of the '5 minute job' - those that take at least an hour, if not several!!
First up - whilst the bumper is off, scoop some weight out:
Bumper as standard:
Stripped:
Hacked about and reassembled:
Last year, I had quite an exerience at Spa where it was 36 degrees and I nearly cooked my Focus ST and saw quite a few 'victims' of the heat.. So, I am determined that the S14 is going to stay cool:
Oil cooler mocked up:
And viewed from the front of the car:
This cooler is 50% larger than the standard one and a touch thicker as well - in terms of heat rejection, it is much better than the standard item.
To save a bit more weight, I am also binning the fog lights:
Removed:
To be replaced with fog lamp blanks that I obtained here on the 'Zone...
Some of you might know that I have a bit of thing for drifting:
Having the Z3 rack really helps with this but... I did have a PAS cooler when the M20 was installed, but now the cooling is all changed, I had nowhere to put the cooler...
But once the foglamps were gone, a saw a space and took it!
PAS cooler mocked up:
And the finished install:
(Yep the pipes do indeed go through the brake duct - I will seal up the holes so that air can still get to the brakes...)
The PAS cooler is installed to the low pressure side of the PAS circuit and works pretty well - the overheating of PAS fluid presented itself as the steering rack turning in 'chunks' rather than a fluid movement...
And with the foglamp cover in place:
More bits and pieces to come soon - if the rain ever stops...
Just a couple of jobs to do on the engine - first up is valve clearances. As I have fitted a new cylinder head, all the valve clearances were quite wide, so another expensive trip to the stealer saw a bag full of shims:
Take one wide valve clearance:
Use correct tool:
Compress bucket and extract old shim with the power of The Force and a magnet:
And repeat many times...
I have set exhaust clearances to 12 thou and inlets to 15 thou which is 1 thou wide - theory being that the racier inlet cam will not only smack the inlet valve open harder, but it also smacks it shut harder too, which *may* mean the valve clearances close up a little on that side with a few miles - we shall see - I have seen this in the past the exhaust cam *should* be OK as that's standard and valve accelerations should be have been well thought out by BMW - not saying Schrick are careless, they just have different priorities!
The only other jobs to do on the engine are fit the clutch and synchronise the throttles - the latter I will probably do in the car
Now we are into the realm of the '5 minute job' - those that take at least an hour, if not several!!
First up - whilst the bumper is off, scoop some weight out:
Bumper as standard:
Stripped:
Hacked about and reassembled:
Last year, I had quite an exerience at Spa where it was 36 degrees and I nearly cooked my Focus ST and saw quite a few 'victims' of the heat.. So, I am determined that the S14 is going to stay cool:
Oil cooler mocked up:
And viewed from the front of the car:
This cooler is 50% larger than the standard one and a touch thicker as well - in terms of heat rejection, it is much better than the standard item.
To save a bit more weight, I am also binning the fog lights:
Removed:
To be replaced with fog lamp blanks that I obtained here on the 'Zone...
Some of you might know that I have a bit of thing for drifting:
Having the Z3 rack really helps with this but... I did have a PAS cooler when the M20 was installed, but now the cooling is all changed, I had nowhere to put the cooler...
But once the foglamps were gone, a saw a space and took it!
PAS cooler mocked up:
And the finished install:
(Yep the pipes do indeed go through the brake duct - I will seal up the holes so that air can still get to the brakes...)
The PAS cooler is installed to the low pressure side of the PAS circuit and works pretty well - the overheating of PAS fluid presented itself as the steering rack turning in 'chunks' rather than a fluid movement...
And with the foglamp cover in place:
More bits and pieces to come soon - if the rain ever stops...
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Demlotcrew
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Very nice the Setrab is a very good choice ;) I need to monitor my PAS fluid temps too as i dont currently run a Cooler!
My Setrab is vertically mounted on the right hand side of the car due to me obsessively chasing aero efficiency.
Let me know if you need to know which is the flow and which is the return on the filter head.
Andrew
the Setrab is a very good choice ;) I need to monitor my PAS fluid temps too as i dont currently run a Cooler! My Setrab is vertically mounted on the right hand side of the car due to me obsessively chasing aero efficiency.
Let me know if you need to know which is the flow and which is the return on the filter head.
Andrew
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Mikey_Boy
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^^^^ You read my mind... If you can let me know which port is which on the filter head that would be great... 
Had great experiences with Setrab coolers in the past with various applications - some more misguided than others (e.g. Bentley using an oil cooler as part of a charge cooling system - many moons ago) but they are fantastic quality...
If you can let me know which port is which on the filter head that would be great... Had great experiences with Setrab coolers in the past with various applications - some more misguided than others (e.g. Bentley using an oil cooler as part of a charge cooling system - many moons ago) but they are fantastic quality...
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Demlotcrew
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Im very peado when it comes to the small details the whole front end is practically sealed now!
Not only is the quality of the Setrab coolers is very high, they are the lightest and strongest on the market than most of the same price bracket.
With the filter head on the car, the port closest to the front is the feed and the other is the return, this data is from BMW, however this configuration would not work with my in line check valve, which needed to be flipped, unless the one way arrow on the check valve is incorrect.
Andrew
Not only is the quality of the Setrab coolers is very high, they are the lightest and strongest on the market than most of the same price bracket.
With the filter head on the car, the port closest to the front is the feed and the other is the return, this data is from BMW, however this configuration would not work with my in line check valve, which needed to be flipped, unless the one way arrow on the check valve is incorrect.
Andrew
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Mikey_Boy
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Hi again folks - another update coming soon (a BIG one! ) but for now I have a question for all you wiring gurus please!
I have worked out pretty much all of what the C101 plug does (at least I think so!), but my question surrounds Pin 15 specifically...
On the VEHICLE side of the C101, pin 15 has quite a small wire and is black/green as described by the Wiki - the wiki states it goes to the instrument panel - quite happy with that, however...
On the ENGINE side of the C101, pin 15 is also black/green and goes straight to the starter. Pin 18 (Yellow/black, also large) also goes to the starter, but to a different connector on the starter.
So, I am wondering why does the M3 harness have 2 connectors going to starter? Does the 325 also have this or does Pin 15 on the 325 C101 connector do something completely different?
And of course, what do I need to do to the vehicle side C101 if anything??
Thanks in advance!!
) but for now I have a question for all you wiring gurus please! I have worked out pretty much all of what the C101 plug does (at least I think so!), but my question surrounds Pin 15 specifically...
On the VEHICLE side of the C101, pin 15 has quite a small wire and is black/green as described by the Wiki - the wiki states it goes to the instrument panel - quite happy with that, however...
On the ENGINE side of the C101, pin 15 is also black/green and goes straight to the starter. Pin 18 (Yellow/black, also large) also goes to the starter, but to a different connector on the starter.
So, I am wondering why does the M3 harness have 2 connectors going to starter? Does the 325 also have this or does Pin 15 on the 325 C101 connector do something completely different?
And of course, what do I need to do to the vehicle side C101 if anything??
Thanks in advance!!
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Demlotcrew
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Pin 15 (Black Green) is for the unloader relay circuits. What it does is it cuts most of the power to the internal electronics while cranking, radio, lights, cabin heater, etc etc etc.
You can either ground it to the block near the starter or you simply connect it to the small (M5) terminal and the black yellow wire to the (M6) terminal and the main power to the (M8 ) terminal.
I didnt realise Pin 15 went to the cluster, I thought it just terminated at the fuse box
When cranking, the starter sends 12v down the black green wire and the coils in the relays unload. When not cranking the black green wire grounds through the starter case and the coils charge in the relays.
You can either ground it to the block near the starter or you simply connect it to the small (M5) terminal and the black yellow wire to the (M6) terminal and the main power to the (M8 ) terminal.
I didnt realise Pin 15 went to the cluster, I thought it just terminated at the fuse box
When cranking, the starter sends 12v down the black green wire and the coils in the relays unload. When not cranking the black green wire grounds through the starter case and the coils charge in the relays.
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Mikey_Boy
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^^^You can either ground it to the block near the starter or you simply connect it to the small (M5) terminal and the black yellow wire to the (M6) terminal and the main power to the (M8 ) terminal
Brilliant - many thanks!
That's how I have the loom set up right now..
Makes perfect sense and I can see why there is a feed to the cluster - probably to stop the cluster electrics blowing themselves into the middle of next week - I was a bit concerned given that I have a different dash installed that something might go awry. Makes sense it goes through the fuse box as well...
Always good to learn something new!
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Demlotcrew
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I will double check to see if it actually does go to the cluster.
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Demlotcrew
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Ok it goes in to the instrument cluster, specifically to the "service interval printed circuit" and then to the start input on the "on board computer module"
I wonder if the Service indicator lights, record how many times the car has been started.
I wonder if the Service indicator lights, record how many times the car has been started.
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Demlotcrew
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Actually, I think this is a trigger for a "self" check after start, not a counter for how many starts there have been in total.
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Mikey_Boy
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Thanks Andrew - that info means I don't have to do anything with my modded dash...
The more you delve into the standard dash, the more you realise just how clever it was for the time it was designed...
Sometimes I feel a bit sad that I changed my standard dash, but then I just can't resist Stack hardware...
The more you delve into the standard dash, the more you realise just how clever it was for the time it was designed...
Sometimes I feel a bit sad that I changed my standard dash, but then I just can't resist Stack hardware...
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Demlotcrew
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No worries.
The stack gear will soon wear off, I really like Spa Design gauges and all you really need is a decent shift light or a heads up display shift light and you're good to go. Stack does offer the ability to data log so that might be your goal.
The stack gear will soon wear off, I really like Spa Design gauges and all you really need is a decent shift light or a heads up display shift light and you're good to go. Stack does offer the ability to data log so that might be your goal.
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Mikey_Boy
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I am a bit far down the road with Stack gauges to go back now...
http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... highlight=
I do like SPA stuff as well though...
http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... highlight=
I do like SPA stuff as well though...
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Demlotcrew
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I was going back and forth with the stacks, but I just couldn't decide. I then seen this little beauty in action and the rest is history.
[youtube][/youtube]
And a HUD in the helmet. (loosely fitted when I was testing, it now fits neatly in and displays on the visor).
[youtube][/youtube]
[youtube][/youtube]
And a HUD in the helmet. (loosely fitted when I was testing, it now fits neatly in and displays on the visor).
[youtube][/youtube]
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Mikey_Boy
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Calling all M3 owners............!!
Any of you out there have a spare M3 gearbox mount please??
Whilst going through the final throws of getting the engine ready to go in the car I have realised that my gearbox was out of an M535i so the gearbox mount I have is wrong... Balls!
What I would need is the mount and a couple of the mounting bolts as well - number 7 on this diagram:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do ... g=23&fg=10
So - if anyone has one floating around for sale, I would be very grateful indeed! Cash, as they say, is waiting...
Any of you out there have a spare M3 gearbox mount please??
Whilst going through the final throws of getting the engine ready to go in the car I have realised that my gearbox was out of an M535i so the gearbox mount I have is wrong... Balls!
What I would need is the mount and a couple of the mounting bolts as well - number 7 on this diagram:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do ... g=23&fg=10
So - if anyone has one floating around for sale, I would be very grateful indeed! Cash, as they say, is waiting...
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Demlotcrew
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Mike, I can help you with all of those.
I will send you a pm with details etc.
Andrew
I will send you a pm with details etc.
Andrew
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Mikey_Boy
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Some more progress... The engine is IN!!!
Before I get to that, some final pics of various odd jobs:
Front bumper back on:
Taking inspiration from other folks out there, I decided that I would also fit a fibreglass bonnet for ease of access and to give more clearance over the top of the engine:
This will be sprayed up in due course...
I also tarted up the rocker cover:
With the engine off the stand, final dressing could be carried out (new clutch, starter motor and of course the gearbox which didn't need much doing to it other than fitting a breather pipe and fresh oil) - ready to go in:
(Note the exhaust manifold to accomodate the steering coupling - more on that later!)
A BIG thanks to my girlfriend Jo who manned the engine crane, kept me in tea and biccies - a second set of eyes on this job is essential
Also big thanks to Andrew (Delmotcrew) for getting a gearbox mount to me super quick as the E28 M535i mount I had for the M20 doesn't fit...
And here it is:
I know there's a lot of work to go but getting the engine in the bay after all the work so far is very satisfying...
It is tight in places though - steering coupling to manifold clearance is 10mm (it would be more with a standard E30 rack but I am running a Z3 rack - pinion orientation is different but I am hoping with AKG mounts things should be OK - any opinions welcome!!):
Itching to get it finished now!
The engine is IN!!! Before I get to that, some final pics of various odd jobs:
Front bumper back on:
Taking inspiration from other folks out there, I decided that I would also fit a fibreglass bonnet for ease of access and to give more clearance over the top of the engine:
This will be sprayed up in due course...
I also tarted up the rocker cover:
With the engine off the stand, final dressing could be carried out (new clutch, starter motor and of course the gearbox which didn't need much doing to it other than fitting a breather pipe and fresh oil) - ready to go in:
(Note the exhaust manifold to accomodate the steering coupling - more on that later!)
A BIG thanks to my girlfriend Jo who manned the engine crane, kept me in tea and biccies - a second set of eyes on this job is essential
Also big thanks to Andrew (Delmotcrew) for getting a gearbox mount to me super quick as the E28 M535i mount I had for the M20 doesn't fit...
And here it is:
I know there's a lot of work to go but getting the engine in the bay after all the work so far is very satisfying...
It is tight in places though - steering coupling to manifold clearance is 10mm (it would be more with a standard E30 rack but I am running a Z3 rack - pinion orientation is different but I am hoping with AKG mounts things should be OK - any opinions welcome!!):
Itching to get it finished now!
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goosiegander
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Excellent work there!
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Mikey_Boy
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About time for another update! Work has been taking up too much time of late, but I have finally gotten around to do a few odd jobs here and there:
First up - I have fitted a remote oil pressure adapter for the oil pressure switch and Stack pressure sensor - room was getting a bit tight on the filter housing and I have heard that S14s shake oil pressure switches to death causing heart in mouth moments as the oil pressure light comes on...
Nicely held in place with a couple of 'P' clips...
Next up is oil pipes - I have run these behind the LH headlight for ease of access and hopefully a more direct line to the oil cooler - I also filled up the oil cooler with oil to save hours of cranking trying to get oil pressure!
Behind the headlight:
Oil filter end:
And secured to the oil cooler:
Header tank mocked up (this required a couple of brackets to be made up - question to all you M3 owners out there - how does the header tank 'attach' to the body as standard??
Some lovely custom made ignition leads:
I really can't recommend Magnecor enough here - quick, do custom leads all the time, quick turn around and a great price! Really happy with their service!!
And finally - the source of much stress and cursing - the wiring harness:
Whilst it doesn't look like much, most of it is new as quite a few wires were frazzled in there...
Also, the Emerald ECU requires an ignition feed as well as a main relay feed which meant some mods here and there after I was too far down the line not to have to unravel the whole thing again!
Also, I am hoping that running the crank sensor cable through the harness will be OK - it is shielded so fingers crossed there!!
Next up is the rest of the plumbing and exhaust, hopefully soon!
Work has been taking up too much time of late, but I have finally gotten around to do a few odd jobs here and there:First up - I have fitted a remote oil pressure adapter for the oil pressure switch and Stack pressure sensor - room was getting a bit tight on the filter housing and I have heard that S14s shake oil pressure switches to death causing heart in mouth moments as the oil pressure light comes on...
Nicely held in place with a couple of 'P' clips...
Next up is oil pipes - I have run these behind the LH headlight for ease of access and hopefully a more direct line to the oil cooler - I also filled up the oil cooler with oil to save hours of cranking trying to get oil pressure!
Behind the headlight:
Oil filter end:
And secured to the oil cooler:
Header tank mocked up (this required a couple of brackets to be made up - question to all you M3 owners out there - how does the header tank 'attach' to the body as standard??
Some lovely custom made ignition leads:
I really can't recommend Magnecor enough here - quick, do custom leads all the time, quick turn around and a great price! Really happy with their service!!
And finally - the source of much stress and cursing - the wiring harness:
Whilst it doesn't look like much, most of it is new as quite a few wires were frazzled in there...
Also, the Emerald ECU requires an ignition feed as well as a main relay feed which meant some mods here and there after I was too far down the line not to have to unravel the whole thing again!
Also, I am hoping that running the crank sensor cable through the harness will be OK - it is shielded so fingers crossed there!!
Next up is the rest of the plumbing and exhaust, hopefully soon!
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Demlotcrew
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Looking good!
I bought the brackets from BMW for the coolant expansion bottle, can find the numbers if you still need them?
Andrew
I bought the brackets from BMW for the coolant expansion bottle, can find the numbers if you still need them?
Andrew
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Mikey_Boy
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It seems that my photo filing system has failed me so I need a bit of help please!
Just coming to install the loom and realised that I haven't got a photo of the wiring install of the starter motor... Here's a pic of what I have:
From what I recall, the big ass connector that goes to the battery connects to the right post on this shot and the 8 and 6mm fly leads go to the left and bottom respectively??
I don't want to fry my new loom!!!
Also - to open a potential can of worms - any views on what anti-freeze to use? Most forums suggest going to the stealer...
Many thanks!!
Just coming to install the loom and realised that I haven't got a photo of the wiring install of the starter motor... Here's a pic of what I have:
From what I recall, the big ass connector that goes to the battery connects to the right post on this shot and the 8 and 6mm fly leads go to the left and bottom respectively??
I don't want to fry my new loom!!!
Also - to open a potential can of worms - any views on what anti-freeze to use? Most forums suggest going to the stealer...
Many thanks!!
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Demlotcrew
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Mike,
That is an early starter that you are trying to fit to a late car. Its missing one terminal post, but whats confuses me is that the loom that came with the engine should only have two wires, one for the permanent 12V which goes on the M 8 post on the right, and the black/yellow M6 will then go on the lower post.
Have you made your own loom with three wires as per wiring diagrams?
BMW OE antifreeze is more than good enough.
Andrew
That is an early starter that you are trying to fit to a late car. Its missing one terminal post, but whats confuses me is that the loom that came with the engine should only have two wires, one for the permanent 12V which goes on the M 8 post on the right, and the black/yellow M6 will then go on the lower post.
Have you made your own loom with three wires as per wiring diagrams?
BMW OE antifreeze is more than good enough.
Andrew