M30 turbo UPDATE 29/09/13 ENGINE IN!

[sag]

Alrite people

I'm on the verge of turboing my m30, just on the process of getting parts and need some guidance.
My realistic power goals are around 500-600 bhp, I'm on the process on buying parts from the states as it seems to cheaper there, so far my list is:
Arp studs
Mls head gasket
Forged pistons
Turbo manifold t4 log type
Turbo
60lbs injectors
Fuel pump 225lph.
38mm tail waste gate
Uprated clutch kit

Just a few questions
1 what the best CR to go with 8:1/8.5:1 or stock
2 what intercooler sizing to go with
3 do I need to change the camshaft or stock is okay?
4 do I need uprated valve springs or stock is okay?

5 what turbo sizing to go with ? From the stage 4 Turbo http://www.turbochargingdynamics.com/pr ... _Turbo.php

6.As for management side of things I'm heading towards a megasquirt system as you get a Pnp system from the states with a base map or what do you people recommend?

7. Is there anything else I'm missing or recommend or I've got wrong


Thanks sag

[leeparkes]

There may be some info in Toby's old thread to help, this is the set up Imys got now.

http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... 53&start=0

[leeparkes]

Or Matt's

http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... 33&start=0

All i know about these donks is they have been known to cope with 500bhp totally standard, i believe they have a forged crank etc...

[sag]

just a update

just got my engine back from the engineer last week
ive mock mounted the manifold, turbo and the thottle bodies
for pictures















So far the engineers work-

1- bores have been rebored 0.5mm on each cylinder to allow custom forged pistons and drop the comp ratio to 8:1
2- decocked clean and painted block,head,sump and timing covers
3- mild port and polished head
4- inlet manifold ported to the head
5- new big ends and main bearing shells
6- ARP main studs and New OE con rod bolts
7- 3 angle valve job
8- head and block mated with a Mls gasket and ARP head studs


Problems encountered so far

1- ill need custom tubular manifold done now. The turbo is sitting to close to spark plugs 1-2, it will be impossibe to connect ignition leads to the plugs
2- The throttle bodies will be to much work to fit on as the thermostat housing will need major modification. any ideas?


To do list

hopefully in a week or two time ill have the engine fully built. just waiting parts from the steelers for full nut and bolt rebuild on the engine.

[leeparkes]

[dot]

hi looks good chap, i have just built a m20 turbo using a tcd manifold and a comp turbo i had a similar problem with the turbo being too close to the rocker cover/coolant pipes, i managed to get a angled adapter from ebay plus i had a spacer machined, seemed a bit of hassle but it saved wasting the money i spent on the tcd manifold,

if you do try spacing it make sure the bonnet shuts

[DanThe]

If it were me id be having an adaptor made to angle the turbo away from the head

[sag]

Yeah good points! I was just thinking about this the other day.

But Once I mount the engine in I'll see what I got to play with

Regarding updates-

1 iv painted quite a few items ie power steering pump, pulleys, brackets,crank shaft pulleys,painted the rocker cover in crinkle paint

2. Reversed the throttle housing to allow easy plumbing of IC setup and painted the manifold enamel black

3 ordered a few more items from the dealers. Ordered a new water pump,thermostat and some gaskets from ECP

4.put new rocker shafts, heavy duty rockers( from I.E engineering) new eccentrics and hardware and new rocker arm locks( all from I.E) the rocker arm locks is a upgrade part according I.E......" the rockers are held in position by a spring and at high rpm, that spring may allow the rocker to move in relation to the valve stem (sometimes enough to walk off the valve stem which quickly results in a broken rocker arm). With rocker arm locks, you eliminate the spring and positively locate the rocker arm. Locks also make head assembly simpler than with thrust springs. We use these on all our performance engines"

5. Iv managed put new chain guides,timing chain,oil pump chain and guide

It's been eventful last week so far, in the sense of having to remove head three times and damaging the ARP stud threads slightly on the process

The first time i had to remove it ,to allow me to do the head work( cams, rockers etc).
Then when it came to mounting it to the block it wouldn't go on . It would slide down 3 quarters of the way, then it would become stuck and there goes me pushing 118kg of brute force on the head and using every swear word a human can think of!! It still wouldn't go on. I pulled the head out and on inspection found out some of the ARP threads had been damaged on the process of me pushing the head on, and at that precise moment my jaw dropped and the closest thing to me went flying across the workshop

After having a break to clear my head and assemble my phone! I started using thread cleaner file to clean the some of the damaged threads ,I noticed the studs which were damaged were all damaged on the top. So I looked at the head I found out ................??? TAKE A GUESS(what a MUPPET)!!!

Once the above problems was sorted I mounted the head and torqued it up. I had to remove the head a 2nd time to remove the head gasket because I could get one of the timing chain guides on. Once sorted and torqued up. I removed It the third time ,because I forget to put the bush which sits behind the above guide for the oil pump chain tensioner to tension to.

Hopefully that would be the last of me removing the head for many thousands of miles!!

On a side note I was quite surprised on how torqued up the head is. According to ARP , the head needs to be torqued in three stages to 90ft pounds ( stage1 30ftp, stage2 60ftp and stage3 90ftp). To me it didnt feel tight enough, as there was no degrees used, but I'm in no position to question ARP!

Il upload pictures in the next few days for the above work

[craigieeb]

keep at it mate, it'll all come together in the end

[Rav335uk]

Take a look at Matts turbo build. He modified the thermo housing using the throttlebodies.
Its a must do if going down that route.

[staley_turbo]

Looking very nice.

[staley_turbo]

Take a look at Matts turbo build. He modified the thermo housing using the throttlebodies.
Its a must do if going down that route.

There's a few mods needed to get these to fit, including a new dipstick!

[sag]

Here the pictures in no particular order

[craigieeb]

Mmmmmm!!
electronic snap-on torque wrench

[lyricalnut02]

[sag]

Last four pictures is the current stage of rebuild



Engine rebuild is nearly finished, just waiting on some backorder parts from the dealers. Im hoping on the flip side of next week,it will be all done and then iv got some work on the car itself,to be done before finalising a date for the engine to go in.

[sag]

Mmmmmm!!
electronic snap-on torque wrench

A very handy and a effieceint tool, but it comes at a price!!

[leeparkes]

This is going to be a monster when finished.

Im a bit confused to which manifold your going to use?

[sag]

This is going to be a monster when finished.

Im a bit confused to which manifold your going to use?

I'll be using the standard manifold, of which I reversed the throttle housing for the time being

The ITBS require some fabrication work, in the sense of the thermo housing and possible a plenum chamber. Which currently I don't have time for.

I'm hoping to see fuel in a month or two ,so I'm in very tight timescale as I really Only have Sunday's to work on it

[sag]

Finally a update

Since the last update, not many things have been achieved. i kind of lost interest for a time being and had plenty of my own customers cars to fix, which all got built up during the course of the engine build.

Anyway back on ball now after reading some morale boosting projects!! on friday evening. Ive manged to finsh the last batch of cars last sunday, leaving me today free to carry on with my project.

Continuing from rear subframe Saga i had last month(on the Technical Help forum) . i drilled some holes on the broken pin, and with a few hits with a chisel it came out.




I removed/ cutted out the old brake pipes and hoses




Went down to the spare part shop and got a spiral of kuniffer pipe and started to cut and make the pipes. A lot of cursing go on,as i kept kinking the pipe when do sharp 'U' BENDS, wasted alot of pipes but got there eventually












Wasted pipes!!!





Iv found some rust on the rear, were the handbrake tubes go and brackets for the brake pipes. i ground down the rust with some wire brush and flat screw driver.I then applied some fertan rust remover, for temporary, as some time next year ill will remove the rear end again, and adresse these issues by cutting and welding new plates in.

[sag]

Also ive started on removing the pedal box ,but didnt finish it as i couldnt get the security bolts of the colum. I was using a rubber mallet and chisel!!!, as i left my club hammer at work. That will be next weeks job and hopefully putting the rear end back

heres the WMS i got from Keri

[Rav335uk]

Nice work.
Your ITB's look to be S38 ones, they don't need the plenium, they can be run with filter socks on the individual ITB's.

[sag]

Nice work.
Your ITB's look to be S38 ones, they don't need the plenium, they can be run with filter socks on the individual ITB's.

Plenium will be needed Rav as I'm going forced induction !!

[Rav335uk]

I forgot
Same as me, I have one, but it'll need to be butchered to clear the servo on the e30.

Ony reason I mentioned the filter socks was i'm using those while i run the engine in without the charger connected.

[staley_turbo]

Looking good.

Reading your spec, I think your injectors may be on the small side for the power your looking for.

[sag]

I forgot to update the spec .I've gone with 60lbs injectors now. As the 45 were for my initial target of around 400-450

[staley_turbo]

What ones have you gone for?

I have just bought a set on the bosch EV14's 60lbs

[sag]

ive gone for seimans deka(edelbrock) injectors

[sag]

UPDATE 27/12/2012

Things are progessing very slow at the moment. The master plan was to have the front and rear suspension/brake rebuild and pedalbox all done before xmas. Then having the car taken to the my workplace(as we ae closed till 2nd jan), to have the engine installed and then towed to a place to get the Exhaust,IC,Tunning and VEMS ecu wired up.

As of now the car still at home on axle stands and im still rebuilding the rear suspension. The progess has been very slow due to few factors ,the weather, jury service and flu!

Anyway I had some decent rear trailing arms laying around, which i stripped completely ie removing the bushes,bearings ,brakes

Then with a aid of a portable media blaster( bought from FROST),i got blasting the old paint of the arms. Which never worked as the paint on the arms was some sort of rubberised paint. The media was not cutting into the paint as it kept bouncing off, due to the rubberised paint. So off to my tool box and got a die grinder with a knotted wire attachment and off i went grinding. Around couple hours later, the arms ended up like this







Once the delivery arrived from Frost, i went to my mates house who kindly let me use his garage and got cracking on
the items i bought were
1 Marine wash( some sort of degreaser)
2 Metal prep(etch primes and leaves a zinc phosphate coating)
3 POR15 Rust preventive paint
5 POR15 Chassis coat(topcoat which is extremly chip scratch resistant)




After using the above products on the trailing arms and brake back plates the finish is very good,durable and very tough,it left no brush marks (it was brushed on). The only downside was there was a lot of runs, but thats was due to me applying very thick coat for the top coat. I should applied two thin coats rather then one thick coat

[sag]

I bought a front subframe from a guy on ebay. which had the weld on reinforcement plates welded on (for the engine mounts).The guy sprayed the subframe with normal black with rattle cans. the finish was very good, but not scratch/chip resistant.
Also i purchased a used rear subframe from DANTHE which had camber plates welded on








Instead of grinding it down and then applying the Frost products step by step, i just applied the chassis coat direct on both the frames. This time instead of brushing, i used a spray gun. Not sure of the finish yet as it not fully dried, as it was only done today








Hopefully its all dry tomorrow so i can start building everything back up with these goodies

[Rav335uk]

Excellent progress.
Mines at a standstill for the time being

[jimbom30cab]

looks really nice, great finish.

[craigieeb]

Looking good dude.


What's the crack with the discs?
Meaning..... What's the purpose of all the extra holes?

[DMS]

Looking good dude.


What's the crack with the discs?
Meaning..... What's the purpose of all the extra holes?

Looks like they're E46 discs re drilled to fit the 4-lug pattern.

[sag]

Looking good dude.


What's the crack with the discs?
Meaning..... What's the purpose of all the extra holes?

That's how they came when I purchased WMS kit from keri