M62 E30 alternator wiring/ build pictures
Moderator: martauto
Hi I wonder if anyone can help me with this, have put a 1997, m62b35 from an e39 into a facelift e30, have wired it up as per www.e30.de, everything works fine apart from my alternator warning light won't go out. the alternator is charging fine showing 14.4v at the battery when running just the warning light remains on , the alternator is the air cooled type with a B+ post and a 3 pin plug, only two of the pins are used middle being blue which I thought would be D+, the other pin is a green wire going somewhere into the engine loom. I have replaced the regulator today and still the same thing, am I missing something else? any help most appreciated thanks Andy
Last edited by andy179 on Sun May 11, 2014 4:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Just a quick update got the alternator to work properly, looks like the wiring guide I followed http://wp1016621.server-he.de/fotost/f01934/f01934.htm leaves pin 6 of the x20 (greeen white) disconected. This connects to the other pin on my alternator (the green wire), looks like this needs a fused power supply, so hooked it up and all is well, the only other thing I added to this wiring information was the EWS 11 which fitted quite neatly into the E30, just looking for a better key blank to incorporate the transponder chip!
well done on sorting this andy, i would use any wiring codes found on the net as guidelines only because believe it or not some of the M60/M62 use different wiring setups.
so is she on the road now then?
so is she on the road now then?
6pot wilwoods front
4pot Porsche rear
89 E30 stripped running a 6speed V8
Twin Turbo M60 in progress
Thanks, took me long enough, 18 months in all, new rear inner archers and holes in all the usual places! sorting the shell out took most of the time, I like many others followed dave's servo behind the glovebox approach which works well. will try and upload some more photos next week!
PS for anyone interested an m60 water pump will fit the m62 with a bit of modification to one of the aluminium tubes running down the v. I moved the header tank hose to one of the rear sender ports (other port used for e30 water temp sender). the reason for using an m60 pump allows the use of a standard whaler thermostat, instead of the electronic one to keep things nearer 80degrees. there are conversion kits available instead of doing it this way, but I prefer my approach (and it worked out cheaper!)
More pics added if anyone is interested
http://s1292.photobucket.com/user/andy791/library/
http://s1292.photobucket.com/user/andy791/library/
-
jimbom30cab
- Tech 1 freak
- Posts: 7634
- Joined: Mon Oct 12, 2009 11:00 pm
- Location: in the garage
that's a great build there mate, you should be really proud of that. I've love to do that one day.
Bet it drives well, be epic to see some driving vids
Bet it drives well, be epic to see some driving vids
Car looks great, nice build.
Out of interest do you have issue with hot starting? I know 3 V8 cars including mine that wont even turn over when hot, wondering if its a wiring issue to the starter motor, and as you have been working out the alternator wiring maybe worth askign!
Out of interest do you have issue with hot starting? I know 3 V8 cars including mine that wont even turn over when hot, wondering if its a wiring issue to the starter motor, and as you have been working out the alternator wiring maybe worth askign!
Hi Phill, I have noticed once or twice a rumbling straight after start up from hot, I think this is caused by the exhaust manifolds being so close to the starter, there is no room to fit the heat shield, I've even bought another starter just in case. It does start just think the heat will cause the starter to fail at some point. I did run 70mm wire from the battery to the starter and used two 50mm earth straps to make sure there was no voltage drop, these engines do require quite a few amps as I found out when trying to use jump leads, maybe this could be your issue?