Hi Guys,
Looking for confirmation on my car, i have replaced the black S50 water temp sensor with the brown 1 pin from the M20/E30 and left the blue sender alone, as per stock S50B30.
Is this correct? Im not sure if my temp guage is working correctly or if my thermostat is bad...
Thanks
Water Temp Senders on S30B30...
Moderator: martauto
Anyone?
I just searched an read this...
"the 'black' one needs to stay.
its sends information to the ecu.
you can screw the m20 brown sensor into the water manifold next to the black one. theres an 'allen' bolt there that you can remove and replace with the m20 sensor. then take the brown/purple wire from the black plug and put it to the m20 sensor"
Thats for S50B32. I thought the Blue one spoke to the DME?
I just searched an read this...
"the 'black' one needs to stay.
its sends information to the ecu.
you can screw the m20 brown sensor into the water manifold next to the black one. theres an 'allen' bolt there that you can remove and replace with the m20 sensor. then take the brown/purple wire from the black plug and put it to the m20 sensor"
Thats for S50B32. I thought the Blue one spoke to the DME?
Yeah B30. My temp guage seems to sit at a quarter too, or there abouts.. Certainly not higher anyway.
So with the B30, i should be left with the Blue Sensor for the DME and the Black Sensor is replaced with the M20 1 pin jobbie? Thats how i have it at the moment..
Its running quite rich particularly when cold so just trying to eliminate some potentials..
Ah edit to say, checked realoem, B32 has a combined single sensor for both functions, and a blanking screw in the other hole.
So with the B30, i should be left with the Blue Sensor for the DME and the Black Sensor is replaced with the M20 1 pin jobbie? Thats how i have it at the moment..
Its running quite rich particularly when cold so just trying to eliminate some potentials..
Ah edit to say, checked realoem, B32 has a combined single sensor for both functions, and a blanking screw in the other hole.
Just fitted two new Bosch Lambdas, gonna double, tripple check they are in the correct banks and check they have power etc., I can swap the MAF for known good one off my other M3 and see how if it alters, will check resistance etc on the blue sensor too.
Cheers man, thanks for the help!
Cheers man, thanks for the help!
Not checked MAF yet but had a bingo moment earlier.. The car hesitates/stumbles and can start to drop off when pumping the pedal at low rpm and slight throttle input at low rpm..
Was just playing around, unplugged TPS and it instantly ran better, clean revving etc but shoddy idle speed. Went for a drive and it was proper slow, like a 325 or something.. Plugged it back in, and it got its power back but the crappy low end was back..
So TPS is the/one of the problems.. Also had the air temp sensor plugged into the wrong connector.. Move onto the MAF once i've replaced the TPS!
Was just playing around, unplugged TPS and it instantly ran better, clean revving etc but shoddy idle speed. Went for a drive and it was proper slow, like a 325 or something.. Plugged it back in, and it got its power back but the crappy low end was back..
So TPS is the/one of the problems.. Also had the air temp sensor plugged into the wrong connector.. Move onto the MAF once i've replaced the TPS!
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Jhonno
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Neither of which will help.. TPS is a long term service item iirc. You can check it's operation as it gives a voltage. Have you driven it from cold since putting the air temp sesnor in the right place?
Only driven it cold with the TPS dis-connected, and the drive was much improved aside from the lack of pace, but TPS has such an affect on the way the car runs that i cant say if the air temp sensor has affected much, but as you say, its gotta help.
Found a TPS too, just checked the resistance on it and it runs smooth up the range it seems, will fire that on over the weekend and see how it runs from cold.
Found a TPS too, just checked the resistance on it and it runs smooth up the range it seems, will fire that on over the weekend and see how it runs from cold.
Bah, how annoying.
The car runs, drives and its quite quick from what i can tell (the brake servo is broken so i cant really go for a proper rip) but on quick blips of the throttle from idle it bogs/floods out. It ldles quite well too, stable and consistant.
I've changed the MAF, the TPS, new Lambda's, checked for air leaks, checked the cam, crank and vanos sensors, checked the Blue DME water temp sender and cant think of much else to check..
However i do have some exhaust leaks pre-lambda, im wondering what affect this will have.. However i had the bogging before i fitted the lambda's..
Anyway.. That'll do for today.
The car runs, drives and its quite quick from what i can tell (the brake servo is broken so i cant really go for a proper rip) but on quick blips of the throttle from idle it bogs/floods out. It ldles quite well too, stable and consistant.
I've changed the MAF, the TPS, new Lambda's, checked for air leaks, checked the cam, crank and vanos sensors, checked the Blue DME water temp sender and cant think of much else to check..
However i do have some exhaust leaks pre-lambda, im wondering what affect this will have.. However i had the bogging before i fitted the lambda's..
Anyway.. That'll do for today.
I've been moving into a new house so been a bit busy with that, so i only just managed to finish the work on the manifold and brakes today, so i guess its up and running!
I havent driven it yet, but it still has the initial bogging problem but im bored of trying to sort it, just gonna either use the car.. Or maybe sell it. I dunno, tightening the purse strings since moving into the new place, perhaps i should just get a 328i.. Hmm.
I havent driven it yet, but it still has the initial bogging problem but im bored of trying to sort it, just gonna either use the car.. Or maybe sell it. I dunno, tightening the purse strings since moving into the new place, perhaps i should just get a 328i.. Hmm.