Remove cylinder head to take off timing case cover?
Moderator: martauto
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Andrew325is
- E30 Zone Newbie

- Posts: 8
- Joined: Fri Oct 22, 2010 11:00 pm
I need to replace the oil pump chain tensioner on the S54. (The engine I bought was being prepped for dry sump and is as such missing the tensioner and chain for the pump.) I don't see how to do it without taking off the timing case cover. The repair instructions (BMW TIS - 11 14 110 Removing and installing, sealing or replacing timing case cover (S50 / S54)) say to remove the cylinder head! That seems like an ungodly amount of work to replace a cheap plastic part. It looks to me like I can just take out the 2 top bolts for the cover without removing the head and pray it doesn't screw up the seal of the head gasket. Any insight?
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GermanGorilla
- E30 Zone Regular

- Posts: 528
- Joined: Mon Feb 07, 2005 11:00 pm
Hi,
The std Oil pump chain tensioner on
the S54 is held in place by a 'circlip;
which fits over a lug.
The plastic guide slides over the
lug and then the circlip slips on
to retain it.
With the sump pan off and the oil pump
removed you can fiddle and f***
about till its on.
If the engine was dry sumped then you
also want to check that the oil return
feed from the oil block down to the
sump is clear, as this has to be blocked
off when running a Dry Sump set up.
Not easy, to do this way and it can be time
consuming getting the circlip on,
but taking the front cover
off with the head in place is a right
pita and is not without its own set of
issues.
Regards,
The Gorilla.
The std Oil pump chain tensioner on
the S54 is held in place by a 'circlip;
which fits over a lug.
The plastic guide slides over the
lug and then the circlip slips on
to retain it.
With the sump pan off and the oil pump
removed you can fiddle and f***
about till its on.
If the engine was dry sumped then you
also want to check that the oil return
feed from the oil block down to the
sump is clear, as this has to be blocked
off when running a Dry Sump set up.
Not easy, to do this way and it can be time
consuming getting the circlip on,
but taking the front cover
off with the head in place is a right
pita and is not without its own set of
issues.
Regards,
The Gorilla.
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Andrew325is
- E30 Zone Newbie

- Posts: 8
- Joined: Fri Oct 22, 2010 11:00 pm
Hi,
Thanks for the tips. I don't mean to sound stupid, but where is the oil return feed? Is there only 1? I see 2 small holes on one side and 5 larger holes on the other. Should I also remove the oil filter housing to check that the chambers are clear?
Thanks for the tips. I don't mean to sound stupid, but where is the oil return feed? Is there only 1? I see 2 small holes on one side and 5 larger holes on the other. Should I also remove the oil filter housing to check that the chambers are clear?
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Andrew325is
- E30 Zone Newbie

- Posts: 8
- Joined: Fri Oct 22, 2010 11:00 pm
Success.
I opened the case just enough to get the tensioner on the lug while holding up the spring with a screwdriver. Then I stuck the circlip on with a needle nose pliers. The bolts on the vibration dampener were a serious pita. My friend conjured up a homemade special tool to keep it in place and all was well till the 4th bolt. The head stripped so then we welded a nut to it, which worked great. Now the project continues.. Hopefully no leaks.
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GermanGorilla
- E30 Zone Regular

- Posts: 528
- Joined: Mon Feb 07, 2005 11:00 pm
Hi,
If you unbolt the oil filtre housing,
where it sits on the block is a
chamber.
The bottom chamber feeds via
an oil galley down the block
into the sump.
You must ensure that this is
all clear and that the oil filtre
housing/chamber is also clear.
Make sure the harmonic damper
bolts are back on correctly and are
all Torqued equally, otherwise
all your hard work will have been
for nothing when you start to use
the engine.
Regards,
The Gorilla.
If you unbolt the oil filtre housing,
where it sits on the block is a
chamber.
The bottom chamber feeds via
an oil galley down the block
into the sump.
You must ensure that this is
all clear and that the oil filtre
housing/chamber is also clear.
Make sure the harmonic damper
bolts are back on correctly and are
all Torqued equally, otherwise
all your hard work will have been
for nothing when you start to use
the engine.
Regards,
The Gorilla.
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Andrew325is
- E30 Zone Newbie

- Posts: 8
- Joined: Fri Oct 22, 2010 11:00 pm
Thanks. I'll check the housing. I suppose I should replace the gasket? Is it ok to reuse the harmonic damper bolts? I only ordered 1 new one.
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Andrew325is
- E30 Zone Newbie

- Posts: 8
- Joined: Fri Oct 22, 2010 11:00 pm
I just went ahead and ordered 3 more bolts. Better safe than sorry.
And a new gasket for the housing. Thanks for your help man!
-Andy
-Andy
